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I would say try both ISO's I did mainly use 100 but today i used 400 as well because it was getting darker.Well I decided before I pull the trigger on a DP1m or DPM2,
I rented both from lensrentals.com for this weekend.
So to make sure I get the most out of my "evaluation"
As of today, how should I setup the cameras?
ISO 100, or 200?
Sharpening setting in camera
Noise setting
Picture style
Thanks
Steven
100 ISO. However, I will set 125, 160 or 200 ISO where necessary (make sure you have the updated firmware to allow 1/3 increments in setting ISO).
Neutral colour setting, sunlight WB if outdoors (Auto WB is too cyan for my tastes - basically its just plain wrong!)
Adobe RGB and turn down all NR and sharpening in camera. Shoot with +.3 to +.7 correction (expose for the shadows) using Aperture priority.
In Sigma Photo Pro, My preference from the beginning has been to reduce exposure (see above) and increase x3 fill light a tad where necessary (and it usually is), without overdoing it.
My practice with sharpening has changed. I now often leave on 0 in Sigma Photo Pro, or will reduce by up to -1 depending on the image. Its all personal preference, but the Sigma sharpening algorithms seem best suited to their sensor, so turning it off altogether no longer seems adviseable or necessary.
Dial down Luminance NR by one notch. Turning it off altogether is a mistake if there is noise in the shadows.
Export to a new folder for each shoot, TIFF-16 bit.
Quentin
Very nice images Michiel. I've also un-intentionally hit that MF button occasionally. I have not had the need to use MF yet, but might if doing macro. You are the window expert Michiel, so we are relying on your verdict about AF and windows.:salute:I had a lot of failures today.
I must have touched the focus button to MF and forgot about the light and the sound.
Quentin, do you use MF a lot or you leave it on AF/MF?
Could it be that AF has trouble with glass windows?
Michiel
MichielI had a lot of failures today.
I must have touched the focus button to MF and forgot about the light and the sound.
Quentin, do you use MF a lot or you leave it on AF/MF?
Could it be that AF has trouble with glass windows?
Michiel
I have not noticed anything like this yet in the shots I've taken so I can't comment on the cause or a fix. There was some paranoia over at DPR about purple/green blotches, but I thought that was primarily a low light/high ISO issue, which is clearly not the case here.Quentin, Carl, Uwe and others who have been working with the DP2M.
Could you please address the purple/green issues mentioned in my post above.
I am strongly attracted to buying this camera, but am concerned about the issues that showed up on the linked image.
thanks,
Antara
Uwe, what you posted seems different and more subtle than the photo Antara referenced. Is it possible that the water just looked that way in reality?>but I thought that was primarily a low light/high ISO issue, which is clearly not the case here.
Sorry it is not.
I thought the same. That type of reflective color variation on the ocean surface is not at all unusual. Here is a shot I took a few years ago with a Canon 5DII:Uwe, what you posted seems different and more subtle than the photo Antara referenced. Is it possible that the water just looked that way in reality?
Regardless, this seems a relatively minor issue to me. Like Fuji orbs - one of those things where you can choose to either concentrate on what the camera can do or what it can't.