Amin
Active member
Thanks, Carl. I'm pretty sure I've seen it before with other cameras too. I actually like the way it looks in the referenced Sigma photo.
The GetDPI Photography Forum
Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!
Sigma DP2 Merrill shots
- Thread starter Quentin_Bargate
- Start date
If you pixel peep the referenced jpeg, its not just large expanses of color shift,like Carl's, or subtle blotches, like Uwe's. Strange, it doesn't look as bad as I remember. When checking it out in Photoshop it appears that the green channel needs a slight adjustment and then it smooths out. Is this what I vaguely remember people talking about the greens either here or at dpr?
Here is a quote from the sigma forum at dpr.
Dear fellow Sigma enthusiasts...
After two days with the Sigma DP1M, here are my observations. I state them in comparison to the DP2M which I own as well:
whereas the DP2M has a slight green cast (easliy corrected with +2M in SPP), the DP1M has a slight magenta cast (1C+1Y in SPP)
Maybe thats all that is needed to correct.
Dear fellow Sigma enthusiasts...
After two days with the Sigma DP1M, here are my observations. I state them in comparison to the DP2M which I own as well:
whereas the DP2M has a slight green cast (easliy corrected with +2M in SPP), the DP1M has a slight magenta cast (1C+1Y in SPP)
Maybe thats all that is needed to correct.
Amin
Active member
Still looks to me like something which could be natural.
I am going to have to agree with you Amin (and Carl too).....as far as corrections, I dial in the +1C + +1Y for the DP1M and the +2M for the DP2M in SPP.
R
kuau
Workshop Member
My 2 week experience with the SD1M, I came to a few of my own conclusions, I I found that if possible, creating a custom WB can help some, yet at the same time, I came to the conclusion that Sigma has not created a good camera profile for there new Foven sensor.
I took many test shots of a Color Checker Chart and could never get a good match to it, even though the custom WB did help.
What the camera is missing is a good camera profile. Unfortunately SPP does not support custom profiles, and with no DNG support in the near future, or possibly never this is an issue.
I gave up not because of the color, It was the sigma lenses on the SD1M were not up to the task.
Yet my interest has for sure perked up since seeing images from the DP2M...
I took many test shots of a Color Checker Chart and could never get a good match to it, even though the custom WB did help.
What the camera is missing is a good camera profile. Unfortunately SPP does not support custom profiles, and with no DNG support in the near future, or possibly never this is an issue.
I gave up not because of the color, It was the sigma lenses on the SD1M were not up to the task.
Yet my interest has for sure perked up since seeing images from the DP2M...
Amin
Active member
Sigma cameras have never had the most accurate colors, but I've always found the colors to be very pleasing, which matters more to me than accuracy.
Amin
Active member
ISO 200 is the base ISO for this sensor. In terms of the exposure range in the RAW file, ISO 100 is just ISO 200 with +1EV exposure compensation. Whether to shoot at ISO 100 or 200 setting depends on whether you want more highlight latitude in the RAW file (ISO 200) or less noise (ISO 100).
W.Utsch
Member
Hi to all,
so far i see three problems with the DP2m:
1. Banding,
it occurs sometimes in the shadows in out of focus areas mainly starting at iso 200. This is not a big problem. SPP noise reduction takes care of it. This is why SPP has the NR sliders as a standard in the middle position. If there is no banding visible you ca slide them to the left at low iso.
The other possibility is to use NIK Define plugin in LR. Slide NR in SPP way to the left and exp. TIFF 16 to LR. Define has a debanding function: just use these and apply no other NR.
2. Magenta Cyan color blotches,
i find them mostly at ISO 200 and up in shadow areas in mid grey or more whitish areas. Not easy to deal with.
What i do is in LR play with the color sliders: Pic the tone with the pipette and desaturate, change luminance or color. This has to be done carefully,depending the photo, so you dont change other color areas. You can use the brush in LR with a mask and change saturation only locally.
Only a very few of my pics where affected.
3. Cyan greenish cast in the corners (not blotches!)
i made a shot with a WB diffusor in front of the lens:
[/url]
SDIM0338-09. Oktober 2012.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr[/IMG]
Reminds me on the Leica M8,9
Convert it to DNG, and used the new "corner fix" plugin from Adobe:
This is the pic before corner fix:
[/url]
SDIM0267-08. Oktober 2012.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr[/IMG]
you can clearly see the cyan shift in the corners.
This is after the pug in:
[/url]
SDIM0267-08. Oktober 2012_ff.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr[/IMG]
Looks (little) better, more eaven. i Think with more time on could make this process much better.
In general, the best thing to avoid problems is to expose to the shadows +0.3 -+0.7 and to use SPP with care.
Regards Werner
so far i see three problems with the DP2m:
1. Banding,
it occurs sometimes in the shadows in out of focus areas mainly starting at iso 200. This is not a big problem. SPP noise reduction takes care of it. This is why SPP has the NR sliders as a standard in the middle position. If there is no banding visible you ca slide them to the left at low iso.
The other possibility is to use NIK Define plugin in LR. Slide NR in SPP way to the left and exp. TIFF 16 to LR. Define has a debanding function: just use these and apply no other NR.
2. Magenta Cyan color blotches,
i find them mostly at ISO 200 and up in shadow areas in mid grey or more whitish areas. Not easy to deal with.
What i do is in LR play with the color sliders: Pic the tone with the pipette and desaturate, change luminance or color. This has to be done carefully,depending the photo, so you dont change other color areas. You can use the brush in LR with a mask and change saturation only locally.
Only a very few of my pics where affected.
3. Cyan greenish cast in the corners (not blotches!)
i made a shot with a WB diffusor in front of the lens:
SDIM0338-09. Oktober 2012.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr[/IMG]
Reminds me on the Leica M8,9
Convert it to DNG, and used the new "corner fix" plugin from Adobe:
This is the pic before corner fix:
SDIM0267-08. Oktober 2012.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr[/IMG]
you can clearly see the cyan shift in the corners.
This is after the pug in:
SDIM0267-08. Oktober 2012_ff.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr[/IMG]
Looks (little) better, more eaven. i Think with more time on could make this process much better.
In general, the best thing to avoid problems is to expose to the shadows +0.3 -+0.7 and to use SPP with care.
Regards Werner
Quentin_Bargate
Well-known member
Hi Werner, Steven, all
It is all a question of compromise.
Whatever the native sensitivity of the sensor is, I shoot at 100iso to obtain the best quality with minimum shadow noise. Shooting at higher ISO should only be used where necessary to avoid camera shake. Above 400iso, switch to a different camera if you have one with you - a NEX 5 or 7 is a better option here.
I agree that using some luminance NR is often desirable to cut down banding or shadow noise. Where necessary I also run Neat Image in photoshop where I have built DP2 specific profiles for 100, 200, 400 and 800 ISO.
Purple blobs are best dealt with by exposing for the shadows, and if necessary turning up chrominance NR in Sigma photo pro. If all else fails, a touch of paint brush at 50% in Photoshop in color mode works reasonably well.
Has anyone tried Color Washer? I find it can be of help not just on DP files but generally. It's another option.
It is all a question of compromise.
Whatever the native sensitivity of the sensor is, I shoot at 100iso to obtain the best quality with minimum shadow noise. Shooting at higher ISO should only be used where necessary to avoid camera shake. Above 400iso, switch to a different camera if you have one with you - a NEX 5 or 7 is a better option here.
I agree that using some luminance NR is often desirable to cut down banding or shadow noise. Where necessary I also run Neat Image in photoshop where I have built DP2 specific profiles for 100, 200, 400 and 800 ISO.
Purple blobs are best dealt with by exposing for the shadows, and if necessary turning up chrominance NR in Sigma photo pro. If all else fails, a touch of paint brush at 50% in Photoshop in color mode works reasonably well.
Has anyone tried Color Washer? I find it can be of help not just on DP files but generally. It's another option.
scho
Well-known member
I believe that this refers to different white balance behavior in the two cameras. I see the same response in my DP1M and DP2M.
Agree.
W.Utsch
Member
Hi Quentin, et al,
agree 100% to your last post.
To expose for the shadows is mandatory to avoid later problems. Highlight recovery works pretty good, but if you push the shadows you will pretty soon get artifacts etc.
The sensor needs light!
Today tried custom WB (with diffusor) - worked out very good.
I wont use the DP2M for higher ISO then 400, except, and i have to try that fist , for BW.
As said before the behavior of the sensor reminds me on my Leica M8 - very clean and nice files but with certain limitations, one could say with character. Its just big fun to work on and with these files. You always get a big reward when you look 1:1 on your screen ,or make big prints (=A2+).
Werner
BTW: Admire your (and others) posted work here. And the general politeness in the posts
agree 100% to your last post.
To expose for the shadows is mandatory to avoid later problems. Highlight recovery works pretty good, but if you push the shadows you will pretty soon get artifacts etc.
The sensor needs light!
Today tried custom WB (with diffusor) - worked out very good.
I wont use the DP2M for higher ISO then 400, except, and i have to try that fist , for BW.
As said before the behavior of the sensor reminds me on my Leica M8 - very clean and nice files but with certain limitations, one could say with character. Its just big fun to work on and with these files. You always get a big reward when you look 1:1 on your screen ,or make big prints (=A2+).
Werner
BTW: Admire your (and others) posted work here. And the general politeness in the posts
Michiel Schierbeek
Well-known member
Yes, this is Amsterdam in october!
Michiel
Michiel
Quentin_Bargate
Well-known member
hi Werner
Well what can I say? This is not Dpreview, where the lunatics long ago took over the asylum
Any many thanks for your kind comments.
Quentin
Well what can I say? This is not Dpreview, where the lunatics long ago took over the asylum
Any many thanks for your kind comments.
Quentin
biglouis
Well-known member
Personally, I think the output of the DP2 Merrill is so mind blowing that I don't really care if there are banding, shift or any other colour issues. Bear in mind I come from the Leica family where there have been some really odd (dumb?) problems with their sensors.
If you shoot charts you'll find problems. I shoot content and I know by the time I post process any irregularities with the frame can normally be ironed out.
Another point to think about is that a lot of us are shooting for the web, which is the sRGB space, which is one of the most ghastly colour spaces I can think of.
Just my two cents.
LouisB
If you shoot charts you'll find problems. I shoot content and I know by the time I post process any irregularities with the frame can normally be ironed out.
Another point to think about is that a lot of us are shooting for the web, which is the sRGB space, which is one of the most ghastly colour spaces I can think of.
Just my two cents.
LouisB
biglouis
Well-known member
Michiel
That Heineken sign and the pedestrian almost jump out of the picture like a hologram! Great colours and content.
LouisB