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DP Merrilll at high ISO

peterb

Member
Saw this on the Sigma Forum over at the DPReview site.

The OP shot with a DP2 M at ISO 4000 and found Topaz Labs' DeNoise plug-in (which you can use on LR 1-4, Photoshop, Photoshop Elements and Aperture) worked like gangbusters to clean up the noise. (SPP settings were Chroma and Banding set all the way to the right. Luminance set all the way to the Left). I guess with the great optic the sharpness easily sailed through with all the processing so little.

I downloaded his shot and converted it to BW and posted it. What noise there is comes off as film grain of yore.

Apparently Topaz Labs DeNoise is quite compatible with the DP2M (and I suspect DP1 M as well).

For me it means great low light shots in BW with a nice grain effect that looks like Tri-X or T-Max 400.

P

DPReview Sigma Forum Thread

iso 4000 on dp2m, judge for yourself: Sigma Camera Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

Topaz Labs DeNoise

Topaz DeNoise - Remove Noise, Recover Detail

(Note: check specifications to see if you need Topaz Labs Free "Fusion Express" software to run in Aperture, LR and iPhoto)

Topaz DeNoise - Remove Noise, Recover Detail

Here's the link to Fusion Express

Topaz Fusion Express - Bring it All Together
 

Malina DZ

Member
I noticed that with FW v1.04 detail rendering has significantly improved up to iso1600 and noise is not such a big issue any more, but green & magenta color artifacts from iso800 is what really ruins the image. See example below:

Sigma DP2M iso1600
 
I've run into the green/magenta issue as well, Malina... though at low iso. I'm curious as to whether any DP1M or DP2M users have tried an IR cut filter such as the one required when shooting with the Leica M8? There is some speculation that an IR filter might help to mitigate the magenta/green issue, though I don't personally have one so I'm unable to test this theory.

I have noticed that the problem is exacerbated by the use of Iridient Developers's recent raw update so I have to avoid it on my DP2M files for that reason. Apart from that issue, Raw Developer has always been my choice for developing my Leica DMR files as the demosaicing is far superior to other raw software programs I've tested.

Lawrence
 

The Ute

Well-known member
Saw this on the Sigma Forum over at the DPReview site.

The OP shot with a DP2 M at ISO 4000 and found Topaz Labs' DeNoise plug-in (which you can use on LR 1-4, Photoshop, Photoshop Elements and Aperture) worked like gangbusters to clean up the noise. (SPP settings were Chroma and Banding set all the way to the right. Luminance set all the way to the Left). I guess with the great optic the sharpness easily sailed through with all the processing so little.

I downloaded his shot and converted it to BW and posted it. What noise there is comes off as film grain of yore.

Apparently Topaz Labs DeNoise is quite compatible with the DP2M (and I suspect DP1 M as well).

For me it means great low light shots in BW with a nice grain effect that looks like Tri-X or T-Max 400.

P

DPReview Sigma Forum Thread

iso 4000 on dp2m, judge for yourself: Sigma Camera Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

Topaz Labs DeNoise

Topaz DeNoise - Remove Noise, Recover Detail

(Note: check specifications to see if you need Topaz Labs Free "Fusion Express" software to run in Aperture, LR and iPhoto)

Topaz DeNoise - Remove Noise, Recover Detail

Here's the link to Fusion Express

Topaz Fusion Express - Bring it All Together
Any post-processing I do is w. Topaz.

I have the entire suite.

:)
 

W.Utsch

Member
I tried one infrared filter from my M8 on the DP2M, to see if it can help against the magenta/green blotches - with no success.

I get sometimes the blotches in shadow areas with neutral (grey) parts, mainly at higher ISO. It is pretty easy to get rid of them in post procession (LR 4 or CS6 no special plugins)
 

W.Utsch

Member
Mark (mask) the area with the brush in LR, then desaturate. The blotches are almost every time in shadow and more neutral parts. So it will not hurt general saturation and color.
You can refine that in PS CS6.
Keep shadows dark and do not lighten them up to much.

Sometimes (depending on the pic) you can even point to the magenta or green and move the saturation slider accordingly (without masking) - but then you have to watch the other colors in the pic.
 
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