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I'm new to this forum, just to say I will have the DP3 Merrill in early March (release date in France). As many of you, I'm foveon addict since Sigma SD9 and can't stop using it.
I sold my DP2 Merrill to fund my DP3m because I'm a long focal guy. So, If you are a long focal guy, I think this 75 mm equivalent will be outstanding; Leica class at least.
It will be the ideal gear for light reproduction work, even pack shoot (Had some contracts lately and did some with the DP2m but he was too short).
For portrait work, we will see.
Anyway, can't wait having mine; as Quentin say, he is the sexiest of the DP
OT: a friend of mine worked in a record company auditioning tapes hopeful bands would send in (I wonder if they are now called 'digital download companies'?).
I asked him once to explain to me how he knew he had a hot hit on his hands.
"Oh, that's easy" he replied, "I listen for the FM factor"
"FM factor?" " I quizzed, "What is that?"
"Well, I listen to the tape and what I am hoping for is that pretty much as soon as the band starts playing my first reaction is f&*% me!"
I've adopted the same reaction when viewing photographs. That Cathedral shot has a very high FM factor. You just know it would blow up into a 30x20 print that would look absolutely gorgeous.
Some pictures with the DP3m out of SPP Monochrome
SIGMA Monochrome - a set on Flickr
And some colours :
NOTA : This was done with a beta device.
Those photographs are not really inspiring and look rather dull.
Let's hope the real production one is a lot better for the inspired photographer
By looking at the exifs front the photographed subjects I came with 3 conclusions :
¤ SIGMA asked him to shoot only between f2.8 and f4.5 (witch I doubt but can be possible with unfinished product).
¤ The guy was exited by the product and used it like he use the DP2 Merrill ... witch lead me to the third conclusion ...
¤ With all due respect to this photographer, he does not know really well how to shoot with a given focal length : He is simply an amateur photographer with a test toy.
At first, just to speak about quickness of use. While you need to unscrew the lens hood and screw the AML-2, the DP3m, in two click, is operational for macro use with certainly nicer bokeh and better perspectives (absolutely less wide angle).
But I seen what we can call a sort of anomaly, on DP2m as well on the DP3m test shoots : The DP2m is not that good in close-up at f2.8. We can see a sort of very subtitle glare/softness, something similar with what we can see out of the CZ 50f1.4 @ f1.4/1.9 (in far less pronounced). I don't know why but this anomaly disappear once your get farther from the subject. Probably something to do with retrofocus diffraction when a certain lens group move too close to the sensor. We can see it here, for example : http://www.flickr.com/photos/shio/84...57632641352067
I may say that it is not so bad, after all, for portraits
As I can see, the DP3m do have the same anomaly but this is not a problem given the focal length (at least for me).
Anyway, for my unit, the best bokeh out of the DP2 Merrill is at f3.2, not 2.8, and I'm pretty sure it will be the same with the DP3m
Kind regards - Hulyss - hulyssbowman.com1 Member(s) liked this post
So, given the beta shoots above, I found an interesting photo to work with. I will shoot Humans with this device and she react well under mixed tricky lightning. I get the jpeg and tweaked it to see and it confirm I will buy this camera. You can see my subtitle tweak in the pictures below, the first is the original, the second is the adjusted one for ASIAN skin only. There is far different settings for different skins. Credit photo : digitalbear
The treatment is simple. In CS6 you select the pipette to seek info in the picture. The Info we are looking for are white (255;255;255) and black (0;0;0) or what it come closer. Once you got the info, you open a level layer and take the black point pipette to click on your black (or closer) and then, the white point pipette to click on you white. Fusion layer.
Second operation is going to hue saturation. Select Red and type +5 then, go in Yellow and type -8 (-8 is the yellow pre set for Asian skin independent of lightning source, other skin may vary between -5 and -15. Still working on black skins)
Third operation is to go in filter >> noise reduction >> color noise reduction >> 100%
This will sort out a load of so called "foveon problems".
IF the Hue/Saturation operations above impact too much other coloured objects in the photo, just duplicate you background layer, apply the hue/saturation trick, fusion with below layer, take the eraser and erase all "non human" areas, fusion with back ground and voila.
Last edited by Hulyss Bowman; 6th February 2013 at 04:15.
It's still pretty much the same story to me from these BETA samples: Details are there, but I dislike the skin tones especially on Asian skin. If you need the focal length on a Sigma DP Merril camera, this is it!
The suggested pricing $999 is great news! I really hope Sigma's next announcement is neither camera or lens, but they have been working fully with Adobe in getting correct profiles for Lightroom..... yeah, I know, dream on!
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I looked at these flickr images and many of them have this green colour cast. Not only on skin. I have seen this on many other Sigma images on the net too. Also with other Sigma cameras.
But I never saw this green colour cast with the images shown in the DP2M thread here in the getdpi forum.
So my question ist: What do you do differently to avoid this green colour cast? What are your settings in the camera, in SPP and in LR/PS?
It seems to me that many Sigma users only develop the images wrongly in SPP. Is there a "how-to" guide to avoid this green colour cast?
The DPx Merrils stands head and shoulders above everything else where it stands out, but falls flat in other areas. Asian skin tones in my opinion is where it falls flat. I'm also not a fan Nikon cameras for the same reason either, mostly subjective to me, so it may be argued!
The camera in the hand of a better photographer I let you translate.
CASE OF SIGMA | DP3 Merill ?????????? | -photo.yodobashi.com-
You could have a lot of fun with the DP3M because the fixed telephoto lens would make you work a lot harder to get your pictures - and photography if it is a passion should be hard work. But you can see the results when you get it right would be worth it.
Incidentally, I really like that leather strap. Any idea who makes it?
Playing again with jpeg file found on Flickr. Some news, day after day and, for me, it start to have something. I take the example from this page : SIGMA DP3 Merrill Beta Test Photos - a set on Flickr
Don't forget also to look at this photo because I personally love the bokeh : http://www.flickr.com/photos/minami/...7632685178741/
And I took the guy with "cowboy" eyes. Here is what I get. In order, first is the original, second is the adjusted colour and third the B&W. Don't forget it is ISO 800 Shoot (like most of the photos)
Here is a close-up shoot with the DP3 Merrill, at 2.8
Kind regards - Hulyss - hulyssbowman.com5 Member(s) liked this post
Some more new photos from the precious :
SDIM0651 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
SDIM0642 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
SDIM0629 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
SDIM0619 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
SDIM0620 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
SDIM0610 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
So, for me, the lens is on par with the DP2m's lens. Period.
I can't quite believe this camera is first, but... has there ever been any other fixed telephoto only cameras either digital or film in the past? I will define this as over but not including 55mm (in 35mm terms). Perhaps better defined as FOV.
Perhaps some specialist surveillance devices or special use but for a general purpose camera...
I can't even think of one. Anyone?
The Tele Rolleiflex with 135mm f/4 lens. Still in production as far as I know.
You should of course buy the anniversary set:
Only $37,995 at the auction site
Rollei Rolleiflex Set "80 Years Edition" Prototype Set | eBay
A set with the 3 Sigmas would be slightly cheaper as well as more convenient, me thinks, but the idea is the same
Things I sell: Stock photography by Jorgen Udvang at Alamy3 Member(s) liked this post
If you're on a Mac, don't delete SPP 5.4 as Version 5.5 is buggy and will cause your app to freeze. Instructions state that one should delete the current version before installing the update and I did this before installing 5.5 It froze as soon as I tried to open an image. I trashed the app, re-installed it and it still freezes.
I'm running OS 10.6.8 and the software freezes and will not run. After re-installing the prior Version 5.4 everything works fine.
Woohoo - has new monochrome setting. Very cool features.
Camden Charlie - processed in SPP5.5, exported as TIFF into LR then exported from LR as JPEG. I admit I went a bit far on the grain feature.
I'm sure others with a better understanding of B&W can do much better.
Are you getting any crash logs, or does it just sit and spin?
Ahhh. Switching from monochrome to color gave me a crash. I have a friend at Foveon who I send these bugs to. I'll see if there's an address they'd like them sent to...
Downloaded the new SPP version today, Mac on 10.8.2. All is well, working fine.
I boosted the red a bit, and made minor adjustments to exposure and contrast.
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End of the review of the DP3m on CASE OF SIGMA :
CASE OF SIGMA | DP3 Merill ?????????? | -photo.yodobashi.com-