The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

blowup users

S

Steve

Guest
Hello Guys, for those of you that use blow up or I guess any of the other interpolating programs, how do you handle sharpening. Do you leave it at 0 and sharpen yourself later? I use pk sharpener and wonder if someone could enlighten me on what you think is the best way to handle it. Jack ????
Thanks Steve
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
I don't use ASBU, so cannot comment. I use my own proprietary method in CS, described in another thread here, and for it I sharpen the native size file optimally before up-sizing, then re-sharpen that file as needed via an indirect fractal method, also described in the article.

The basics are:

1) Get your file the way you want it looking AT ITS NATIVE SIZE, INCLUDING OPTIMAL DETAIL ENHANCEMENT AT THAT SIZE, but make sure it is NOT over-sharpened. Much better to be not sharpened enough than too much.

2) Uprez to your desired output size plus 15 - 20% in one shot using Bicubic Smoother. Example: If you want your final print to be a 16x24 at 360 PPI, then upsize it to 16x24 at 420 - 440 PPI. Note that final print resolution setting should be optimized for the printer/media combos being used.

3) Once at the over size, you can add some targeted edge sharpening if desired. Usually not required or recommended until one goes larger than 16x24 from a typical 8-16 MP file.

4) Downsize to target size using Bicubic Sharper. Example, take our above image from 16x24 at 440 PPI down to 16x24 at 360 PPI. (This is an indirect, fractal sharpening step in itself, automatically targeting final print size.)

5) Add any required edits specific to the output size.

6) Print it.

The above steps will generate a very nice large print file, though admittedly I have a few additional "secret sauce" edits I keep to share with the workshop attendees.
 
S

Steve

Guest
thanks Jack, I'll have to try that although without the special sauce. I never thought of going up and then coming back down, very interesting. I tried to find the other thread you mentioned but couldn't find it. If it is more informative and you know where I can find it post a link for me if you would please. Thanks Steve
 

mwalker

Subscriber Member
Jack, Is Alien Skin Blowup worth the money? i just purchased a Canon ipf6100 and I'm going to try some large prints. How big would you go with M8 files?
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Jack, Is Alien Skin Blowup worth the money? i just purchased a Canon ipf6100 and I'm going to try some large prints. How big would you go with M8 files?
ASBU may be worth the money, but try my method above that's free with CS first and see if it isn't good enough for you -- may save you a few hundred for ink and paper ;)

I have printed M8 files at the equivalent of 40x60 and they looked very good. Yes you can see digital artifacts from 12 inches away, but back up to 3 feet and the print looked awesome. Ditto for 24x36, only you need to inspect the print at nose length to see any artifacts. I regularly print M8 files to 16x24 without any artifacting visible to the naked eye...
 
Hi all, I´ve tried Blow Up, Genuine Fractal etc, the best results I´ve got are from Jack´s method, and also way faster than others, The only subject that can get a better results from BU and GF is one with lots of lines, an architecture shot for example.

Best
 
Top