Tim try 190/.6/1
Wilco Guv, thanks!
What I use on the D800e it should be close
Sony Lens Compensation app in the A7R, the Lens Distortion menu selection becomes available and can be selected (Auto or Off) with the 55mm f/1.8 mounted. Haven't tried it with non-native lens yet.
Mine is coming tomorrow. If it ever stops raining I might get to try it.
One question :
Have somebody using this lens see that, during AF, the aperture don't change to full (and going back to the selected aperture when The shutter is released) ?
Or is it only mine or only my mistake...
Last edited by tashley; 23rd December 2013 at 10:23.
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You are right.
The A7r coupled with the 55 works as you said.
Good point : take the (enventualy) focus shift in account.
Bad point : focus hinting with bad light and a lens stopped down.
Not bad/not good : dof = focus on/with the sensor should be accurate enough to be at the right place !!
I think somebody said earlier that this behavior happens, if you have the evf/screen show estimation of the actual picture. I think it was called "show effect" or similar in settings. Then it focuses stopped down etc. If you turn that thing off, it'll focus wide open.
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Good tip !
Too late (midnight here) to test.
Will check tomorrow morning.
I've had the 55/1.8 FE for an hour now. It is really sharp and the bokeh is first class. So far no real complaints other than it has a focusing mind of it's own.
The photos below have no merit other than to demonstrate the detail and OOF.
DSC00273 by leephotographic, on Flickr[/IMG]
DSC00246 by leephotographic, on Flickr
DSC00250 by leephotographic, on Flickr
DSC00259 by leephotographic, on Flickr
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My 55mm arrived! A pre war, uncoated 5.5cm f/4.5 Carl Zeiss Planar!
About the same price as Sony's lens case for the 55/1.8 FE.
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Last edited by scho; 24th December 2013 at 11:47.
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Since you brought up "de-centering" as a possible issue, I'll be testing this 55 for it.
Tim, what I still can't grasp is how one assures the camera's sensor is perfectly parallel side-to-side and top-to-bottom compared to the flat subject?
How far away from the subject is prudent for an accurate measure? The further away one gets the deeper the DOF becomes at any aperture ... even f/1.8
What other subject can be used since a perfectly flat brick wall is pretty rare?
Wouldn't a true double blind test be where you shot the same subject on a locked down camera and swapped to another lens or even two that you deem well centered?
I know from doing a lot of flat-on product shots in studio, that getting a perfectly parallel plane of focus on the subject is extremely difficult ... the smallest variation is visible with the aperture wide open. I shoot a lot of car wheels for catalogs where getting the wheel perfectly round is quite a trick ... actually, damned near impossible.
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I answered this to some extent in posts #59 thru 60 in this thread. But that's a short answer. Truth is, I'd never shoot a brick wall first, or rely on it alone.. To see if you have an amount of de-centering that matters is usually pretty easy because it is visible in normal shots, sometimes immediately so. But if I see it either mildly or ambiguously, I shoot well known scenes at near, mid, far mid and infinity distances and compare them to a database in my head of how other lenses do in that scene on that sensor size at that aperture. For example I have a hillside scene which a map will show you has a horizon that looks about flat but which actually has some varying depths in it; but the RX-1 tells me that at f2 on a full frame sensor, the far ridge line can all be rendered in good focus by a 35mm lens.
And yes, I do often lock the body down and then try another lens or two. However, it is only valid with copies of the same lens and even then, the field effects can mean that the exact point of focus can make even the same lens look ok in one frame and not in another.
These things are made more complicated by the fact that field curvature can come and go as a factor at differing distances and apertures and by issues of how the planes of a scene intersect that curved field. This and the effects of focus shift can make the detective work tricky.
I also often use parallax to help me get as close to 'true' to a subject as possible. That's a bigger subject.
But in general it is simple: if, when closed down a stop, a lens consistently renders scenes softer on one side than the other, it's a suspect. I then interrogate it until it cracks.
My current 55 f1.8 is pretty good, I class it a keeper for sure. My current 35 f2 is marginal and might get swapped out. I have a zeiss 21mm f2.8 for my d800e that I should have swapped out and didn't and I regret it. It's hard work, but if you end up with a stable of lenses you trust (and which you don't feel guilty about when you eBay) then it is worthwhile!
De-centering is like pornography: I know it when I see it!
Last edited by tashley; 27th December 2013 at 02:30.
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How the heck are you guys loading the lens corrections?
(if you offer steps, please write them so a pre-school child could understand them )
Take two pictures,one with the viewer up (as it should be...), the second one with the viewer down ( the bottom plate so up).
If the softness/unsharp stay at the same side, could be the lens.
If the softness/unsharp change of side, could be a parallelisme problem between camera and subject
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55mm f1,8 is a gooooood lens, love it.
@ f4,0 (no de-centering seen in 1st test)
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Where on the Sony site are you finding the lens correction app?
I looked in the support section, and the only item there was for remote control of the camera when connected to the computer.
Na it's just a micro USB and a fairly common cable.
Oh Marc the ZA 85mm 1.4 noisy as hell but what a beauty. Really nice on this cam. Love the 1.4 aberrations than love it about perfect at 2.8. Great two for one lens aka Leica R 80 lux. Glad I grabbed it
Received my review copy today. It's smaller than I expected it to be:
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Not surprised Don. She would live something like this
Sorry this is slightly off topic.
I'll get the 24-70 for PR work. What I would like to do is have the 24-70, 85 1.4 and the 135 for AF and PR for the A7
Than for the A7r go manual glass all Zeiss and Leica
It's the truth, I can't remember the last time I touched or even wanted to touch the 1dsiii.
Wait to you play with it. Game over
So since I am the odd ball out and only have the A7, besides all the "pros" who purchased both A7 and A7R, I currently have the Zeiss 50/2 ZM with a voigtlander adaptor.
Besides the obvious, no AF what else am I missing by not having the FE 55/1.8
If you want AF with no adapter than right now your only choice . These cameras the MF is so good that for some AF may not be needed. Easiest manual focus by far over anything else in 35mm.
Priolite Ambassador | Sony Visible Light & IR Photographer
The acid test of this is use of my Leica M 50/0.95, wide open, close up, with off-center composition.
Right now I am in "training mode" ... this is a new focusing approach with certain muscle memory techniques that have to be acquired ... in other words, that "work" you referred to in another post ... work you have to do to get familiar and proficient.
Bringing up the mag square and wheeling it off center then magnifying it to focus is getting faster and faster with practice ... I have had to learn to keep my finger off the shutter button while focusing since it is quite sensitive and snaps back to full view if you even brush it slightly ... I also caught myself shooting while I was still slightly moving the focus collar ... which doesn't work at 0.95
Old dog, new tricks ... I figure I'm a week away from getting it down pat.
Here's that off-center 0.95 close up using mag focus on Irakly's eyeball ... with DOF so thin it could give you a paper cut
"Dinky and Grandma take a Christmas evening nap" ... another with the 0.95 using an ISO undreamed of with my M9.
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Agree Marc that reset on the shutter is too sensitive. Like to see that a full half press. I do the same thing once in awhile is touch the shutter and goes back to full viewing.
Totally agree on getting used to the system and its abilities and also training ourselves. This takes time. We have 3 custom functions the dial does about 5 things than a Fn button with much more control. This just takes time to learn. We could use a few updates in certain things but that is to be expected.
But I have to say and this is extremely rare for me to say but I'm actually excited and thrilled again about a camera. To me its a fun challenge and I have yet to miss focus on anything yet with any lens. I love my manual focus lenses but seriously every Modern DSLR absolutely sucks at focusing them. This changes the game. End of the day I get paid to deliver a image if something actually helps me do that instead of limit me, it just makes me better at my job. Plus it frees the artist in you.
I received my 3rd copy of the 55 and..... I still can't believe it but its on the money. The first thing I did was shoot a Resolving Power Chart and checked the sides, top and bottom and corners. When compared to the center they are all very similar. Compared to my previous copies which had sharp center, sharp right side and completely out of focus left side. That's decentering! This the easiest and quickest way to check a lens for decentering. All the talk about making sure the camera is completely parallel with the target is way overblown. Close is good enough..... if the lens is off it will show. If you get a bad lens send it back and get another.... good ones are out there.
This is good to know but what guarantee is there that there will not be decentering after some time? Are these made just like the NEX E mount lenses? If so, I will stay away from them. I have taken apart a few of the (NEX) lenses to know how badly they are put together.
Totally agree... The two Sony primes are not meant for the front lines. I consider them very delicate. Time will tell.... I have Leica and Zeiss glass and would like to try some of the Voightlander's.