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Flash for Sony?

2WK

Member
CDAF requires uninterrupted (during the whole focusing timeframe) illumination of some area with more or less solid (patterned beam might not work) light...

however if you have a PDAF-on-sensor assisted CDAF or purely PDAF-on-sensor then may be there is a chance of firmware fix to use old style AF beams... however concern (patterned beam) is the sheer difference between sensel-sized area for PDAF-on-sensor detector within the frame vs the size of frame area covered by one off-sensor-PDAF-sensor... just my $0.02
...I'm sure there is a reason why it doesn't work. I'm also sure it is something that Sony can overcome. I hope.
 
I guess, it's the same as at 1/250s, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
when you do HSS the exposure time is filled by a number of small (I am talking about the duration, which for a speedlite = power) flash impulses of ~equal (within the margins of design/manufacturing precision) intensity (and small one)... so by defintion you will spend less power with HSS @ 1/8000 vs HSS @ 1/250 (we assume for simplicity that flash is working at max output during those exposures) = less heat emitted... so how you can overheat the flash by having even a lot of x 1/8000 HSS shots beats me... flash impulse with duration of 1/10000-1/15000 is typically the same as shooting in M mode @ 1/64 or lower, I 'd guess that HSS impulses are using 1/128-1/256 power to be of even shorter duration (because you need a lot of them during 1/8000 exposure time, when slit formed by shutter blades travels across the frame)... did you ever manage to overheat your speedlite by shooting @ 1/64, 1/128, 1/256 ratios in M mode ?

PS: I compared M mode output for Metz 58 in regular mode vs HSS mode - max output in HSS based on given guide numbers is a between 1/8 and 1/4 power settings in regular mode... shooting with max HSS output is like shooting with thoses ratios in regular M mode (or less if you do not need full possible power)... and also the manual specifically says that "Bear in mind that in high-speed flash mode, the guide number of the flash unit is additionally constrained by the shutter speed: The faster the shutter speed, the lower the guide number!", so that will additionally lower for speeds faster than x-sync (1/250 for this Sony).
 
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...I'm sure there is a reason why it doesn't work. I'm also sure it is something that Sony can overcome. I hope.
however so far nobody overcome that... CDAF cameras and flashes with focusing assist for off-sensor PDAF exists for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax/Ricoh, Fuji, m43 (Panasonic & Olympus), Samsung, etc... yet nobody managed
 

2WK

Member
however so far nobody overcome that... CDAF cameras and flashes with focusing assist for off-sensor PDAF exists for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax/Ricoh, Fuji, m43 (Panasonic & Olympus), Samsung, etc... yet nobody managed
You would think they could incorporate a ir/ultrasonic rangefinder that just judges distance. No need to focus on the beam.
 

Malina DZ

Member
deejjjaaaa, will flash power output be different for shutter speeds 1/250 and 1/8000 when it is manually selected to 1/1 power?

I tried 58AM in a bright day (direct sunlight, 90F+ & ~85% Humidity) at 1/2 power output and continuous shooting at 12 shoots/min, and the flash overheated in 5 minutes or so.
 
deejjjaaaa, will flash power output be different for shutter speeds 1/250 and 1/8000 when it is manually selected to 1/1 power?
I believe that what for example Metz is saying... in M+HSS mode (not TTL+HSS... well TTL is naturally also limited - it is just has additional variables that might affect the test) you will have less power output @ 1/8000 at the identical M ratio... I just compared two shots with my A7 and sony flash = both HSS+M mode 1/1, one 1/8000 and one 1/250... exposure is very different, 1/250 is totally blown... so as promised total power output with HSS depends even in M mode on exposure duration...

I tried 58AM in a bright day (direct sunlight, 90F+ & ~85% Humidity) at 1/2 power output and continuous shooting at 12 shoots/min, and the flash overheated in 5 minutes or so.
I see - that means that even with lesser power demand @ 1/8000 HSS shots the flash still can't keep up... that is very sad :facesmack: ... probably internal circuitry itself still overheating when providing a lot of small impulses even each impulse is miniscule in power and @ 1/8000 there are way less of them per shot vs @ 1/250...
 

Rawfa

Active member
Guys, changing the subject a little bit here...what's your advice on a wireless trigger for an F20M and an F43M (or a Nissin i40)?
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Guys, changing the subject a little bit here...what's your advice on a wireless trigger for an F20M and an F43M (or a Nissin i40)?
Well, I don't use any dedicated flash units on the Sony, only simple manual or auto flash units. So I use a Cactus V2 RF trigger if I'm controlling just one flash, and a Cactus V5 trigger if I'm controlling two or more (because I had them already rather than for any inherent superiority of one over the other...).

I bought the Cactus V5s once upon a time because they also allow me to use an RF shutter release with an accessory cable for my Olympus cameras; you've just made me think to check and see whether they have a Sony A7 compatible cable.

G
 
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fotografz

Well-known member
What I'm waiting for is a TTL pass through transmitter compatible with the newer Sony hot-shoe mount.

I have a complete set of Phottix TTL pass through radio transmitters and receivers that worked like a charm with the older A900's hot-shoe.

Pass through TTL allows use of on-camera flash for fill, while triggering a more powerful off-camera directional light … which can be any speed-light with a PC port, or any strobe kit.

- Marc
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Well, I don't use any dedicate flash units on the Sony, only simple manual or auto flash units. So I use a Cactus V2 RF trigger if I'm controlling just one flash, and a Cactus V5 trigger if I'm controlling two or more (because I had them already rather than for any inherent superiority of one over the other...).

I bought the Cactus V5s once upon a time because they also allow me to use an RF shutter release with an accessory cable for my Olympus cameras; you've just made me think to check and see whether they have a Sony A7 compatible cable.

G
Yes, GadgetInfinity.com has the accessory cable to connect the Cactus V5 with the Sony A7 for RF remote shutter operation. Just ordered one: $15 plus change including shipping. Maybe I'll get some more use out of my V5 set with this... :)

G
 

Malina DZ

Member
Guys, changing the subject a little bit here...what's your advice on a wireless trigger for an F20M and an F43M (or a Nissin i40)?
I don't think you can trigger off-camera F20M wirelessly (based on my knowledge of F20AM). You can trigger off-camera F43M with on-camera F20M wirelessly at all shutter speeds. Works well as long as F43M can detect light pulse from F20M.
 

Rawfa

Active member
That is the idea, to use the F20M on camera and trigger the F43M...at least until I get another flash other than the F20M.
 
What I'm waiting for is a TTL pass through transmitter compatible with the newer Sony hot-shoe mount.

I have a complete set of Phottix TTL pass through radio transmitters and receivers that worked like a charm with the older A900's hot-shoe.

Pass through TTL allows use of on-camera flash for fill, while triggering a more powerful off-camera directional light … which can be any speed-light with a PC port, or any strobe kit.

- Marc
Doesn't phottix ttl work with the new mi hotshoe with the ADPMAA adapter?
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Doesn't phottix ttl work with the new mi hotshoe with the ADPMAA adapter?
I'm not against using adapters. I carry an older mount type 58 from when I shot with an A900 to use if my A99's 60 flash goes down.

However, as soon as you use an adapter on the A99, then the pass through Phottix, then the flash … it gets very wobbly and is just asking to bust something including the flash's hotshoe mount which looks rather expensive to get fixed.

I'll wait for a direct mount.

- Marc
 
I'm not against using adapters. I carry an older mount type 58 from when I shot with an A900 to use if my A99's 60 flash goes down.

However, as soon as you use an adapter on the A99, then the pass through Phottix, then the flash … it gets very wobbly and is just asking to bust something including the flash's hotshoe mount which looks rather expensive to get fixed.

I'll wait for a direct mount.

- Marc
with new phottix flash you do not need transmitter - flash is radio transmitter... so it is camera -> adapter -> flash... http://flashhavoc.com/phottix-mitros-plus-for-sony-released/
 

fotografz

Well-known member
with new phottix flash you do not need transmitter - flash is radio transmitter... so it is camera -> adapter -> flash... PHOTTIX – Mitros+ for Sony Released | FLASH HAVOC
This is cool!:clap:

Why do you need a separate adapter? It looks like the shoe is the newer Sony mount.

TTL flash on camera, controlling off-camera TTL flash … Like Canon's system.

Update:
OOPs, just read the fine print on the site … it's the older hot shoe … a non starter for me.

I'll wait.

- Marc
 
The adapter + wireless ttl transmitter is certainly lighter than Sony flashes - why the worry? Unless you really need on camera flash.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
The adapter + wireless ttl transmitter is certainly lighter than Sony flashes - why the worry? Unless you really need on camera flash.
Each of our needs are different.

When shooting a wedding (which is my primary use of Sony cameras), the speed-light connection to the camera is the most vulnerable part. Back when Canon made their flashes with plastic mounts, breakage was not unusual … no, actually it was all to common.

The more connections from flash to the hot-shoe the more vulnerable it gets. I had to be very careful when using the Phottix transmitter on the A900 … and that was using the more secure older Minolta style hot-shoe connection.

Hopefully, Phottix will deliver a radio enabled speed-light with the newer Sony multi-functional foot.

The way I use these is on-camera pass through TTL for fill, and the radio function to trigger the key off-camera light … either another speed-light (not often because of thermal shut down), or more often a portable strobe (which never shuts down under heavy use). Great combination for mobile, fast paced work like a wedding or event … even location portrait work.

- Marc
 
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