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Thread: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

  1. #101
    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    There is not even space for "Schleifkontakte". And additionaly the even more serious problem is the contact row of pins. These pins need at least 3-4mm of depth, remember- at the standard camerapins, these are with springs and moveable. To solve this a whole different approach must be taken and it would not be cheap nor easy.

    Again, I already have an Idea, but I would guess this would add 500-700 € to the costs of the adapter. I have already spent a lot of money in my life on stuff people were wanting, but later did not buy. So I will not do it just so, unless I have a very good reason. And as I have worked with the prestopped down lenses now plenty of times and didn´t mention any nuisance for my workflow, I´d say it´s not on my priority list for now.

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan Steib View Post
    There is not even space for "Schleifkontakte". And additionaly the even more serious problem is the contact row of pins. These pins need at least 3-4mm of depth, remember- at the standard camerapins, these are with springs and moveable. To solve this a whole different approach must be taken and it would not be cheap nor easy.

    Again, I already have an Idea, but I would guess this would add 500-700 € to the costs of the adapter. I have already spent a lot of money in my life on stuff people were wanting, but later did not buy. So I will not do it just so, unless I have a very good reason. And as I have worked with the prestopped down lenses now plenty of times and didn´t mention any nuisance for my workflow, I´d say it´s not on my priority list for now.

    Regards
    Stefan
    Hi Stefan,
    A cheap and easy solution:
    A simple cable going outside from lens mount to camera mount and long enough to give the rotation and shift.. with a plug on each side , so you could:
    - unplugged it if you want to rotate more
    - not use I if you don t need it
    - switch to a new one when broken

    I m ok for shooting and focusing stop down , but having lens info for lens correction would be very great...then you would only have to adjust the shift amount...

  3. #103
    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    David - the cable is not the problem. There is no space for the contacts inside the EOS Bajonett mount ! It needs about at least 3-4mm deep mounting space, we have a max of 1,5 and even this will introduce huge problems to the mechanical stability of the construction. The other side on the emount is not much better, the contacts also would need a special custom made contact plate.
    The whole TS mechanism is working on 26mm, which is not much. In theory we could do a shift only adapter and would get into the needed additional space, but then how many would buy that if it is 500 € more ? Bring me 20 written orders and we can get into it. Otherwise I see no commercial chance for it - right now......

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan Steib View Post
    David - the cable is not the problem. There is no space for the contacts inside the EOS Bajonett mount ! It needs about at least 3-4mm deep mounting space, we have a max of 1,5 and even this will introduce huge problems to the mechanical stability of the construction. The other side on the emount is not much better, the contacts also would need a special custom made contact plate.
    Hi Stefan,

    thanks for your information... of course the contact row wants some space too, I didn't think about that. Anyway, from what I've read you have done a great job on the HCam v2!

    Greetings to the beautiful Allgäu... gonna be there soon for the Schrecksee.

    Best Regards
    Johannes

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    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Just a short info as many have asked for it - how is the lens cap fixed to the lens safely after the sunshade is gone ?
    Well right now I use Velcro closures and that works nicely. May not look fashionable , but keeps the stuff rocksolid and fixed to the lens.
    Better than the original clip in solution.
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Would be nice if aperture dial could be incorporated as seen in this new Metabones EOS to FZ adapter:

    News Shooter | Metabones EF to FZ CIne smart adapter reviewed by Paul Ream of ExtraShot

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    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Well of course it would be nice to get this. But how much would people pay for that ? As I said before
    no TS versions of these electronic adapters exist for 70 $. To compete with this is useless, there are no earnings even if we would use childslaves , wouldn´t feed them more than potatoes and pay no taxes nor customs anywhere.

    And for 999 $ extra on top of our existing adapter whis is now 795 € , how many would buy this ?
    Not to speak of the problems of the missing physical space.
    The prestopped down solution works "OK" so far. for all other than EOS lenses adapted it is not needed at all and
    this shrinks the numbers of potential buyers even further.

    There is a thread about Hasselblad possibly being bought by Phase in the MF forum. Very sad I´d say.
    Thinking before acting helps a lot in this connection, and even though I only have a fraction of resources available for devellopping our products, I have learned to center to the core, cutting the phantasies off and getting stuff that works for a price.

    It´s a hard lesson and it was learned by many mistakes also on my side.

    But now I´m focused....... and our stuff sells very well now.

    Greetings from Germany
    Stefan
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Hi everyone,
    Sorry for the 'beginner's' question:
    How do we change aperture on an EOS lens when using the HCam and a Sony A7 body (if you have no Canon camera) ?
    Is it necessary only to use lenses with aperture rings (also excluding the nikkor G lenses in this case) ?
    Found no info in English on this product on the Hartblei website.
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    Senior Member Annna T's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by anGy View Post
    Hi everyone,
    Sorry for the 'beginner's' question:
    How do we change aperture on an EOS lens when using the HCam and a Sony A7 body (if you have no Canon camera) ?
    Is it necessary only to use lenses with aperture rings (also excluding the nikkor G lenses in this case) ?
    Found no info in English on this product on the Hartblei website.
    From what I understand, you have to use a trick : you mount an EOS lens on a Canon body, set the desired aperture, press the DOF button and take the lens out without shutting down the camera. I guess that the Canon body could be replaced by the Sony A7 plus Metabones smart adapter. But this is a supposition, I didn't test it by myself.
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    So I received my Hcam Master a couple of weeks ago.. Haven't had much of a chance to play with it but from what I can tell it looks very well made and I can see it coming in very handy..

    Am just wondering if anybody has any advice with regards to setting up a situation to test the image circle/sharpness of lenses?

    I would mainly be looking to shoot stopped down (f11 or so) but there are a few lenses that I would be interested in shooting wide open and hopefully still having enough useable image circle.. The Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art is one that has been mentioned previously and would look to have a play around with that.. From what Stefan says, the Leica R lenses also have a large image circle and I currently have a friends 50mm f2 that I would like to test..

    My current lenses are the Canon 24mm TS-E II, the Pentax 645 35mm and I am looking to purchase a Hasselblad 50mm FLE..

    The other concern I have (which has been pointed out by Daf previously) is the potential for internal flare.. The adapter in parts is quite a shiny black metal and I am concerned about this..

    Anyway that anybody knows to test this? Even if it just occurs very rarely, it is still a concern.. I have some Edmund Optics flocking material that I purchased when issues were reported with the Metabones adapter that I could use to flock parts of the adapter but there are obviously parts that move in the adapter and these cannot be flocked..

    If I stitch all the frames from rotating the adapter, I end up with a very large file circular image and I believe that I am running into mechanical vignetting from the adapter before I am running into issues with the lenses image circle..

    O.K, thanks so much in advance, look forward to hearing any suggestions!

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    The other question I had was whether there was anyway of somehow attaching an old 645 film camera reflex viewer to the adapter so that I was able to "visualise" the stitched area of a 645 frame?

    It can get quite tricky trying to visualise such an area and was wondering if the use of a GroundGlass and then a reflex viewer would help with this? I think the image would be back to front but I am o.k with that..

    Was thinking something along the lines of attaching something to a "Fotodiox Tough E mount" and then having a lens project onto some groundglass and then have a reflex finder connected to that..

    Any thoughts? Does that sound feasible or am I way off track with this one?

    At this stage, the only way I can somehow "previsualise" my stitched shot is by doing a 2 x stitch in portrait orientation, which roughly gives me the equivalent of a horizontal 33mm x 44mm "virtual sensor" area..

    I would like to have a bigger stitched area but still retain roughly a 4:3 or 5:4 ratio.. I know I can do a 3 x stitch but this results in a much narrower format that is something close to 3:2.. I feel the only way to achieve what I am after is to maybe do a combination of vertical and horizontal shifts or even diagonal movements.. Like I said, very hard to "previsualise" when you start doing that..

    Thanks, look forward to any thoughts or suggestions..

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Here are a couple of quick examples with the Leica R 50mm f2.

    One is taken at f11 and the other is shot wide open at f2.


    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R50mm%40f2.jpg

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...50mm%40f11.jpg
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    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by wallpaperviking View Post
    The other question I had was whether there was anyway of somehow attaching an old 645 film camera reflex viewer to the adapter so that I was able to "visualise" the stitched area of a 645 frame?

    It can get quite tricky trying to visualise such an area and was wondering if the use of a GroundGlass and then a reflex viewer would help with this? I think the image would be back to front but I am o.k with that..

    Was thinking something along the lines of attaching something to a "Fotodiox Tough E mount" and then having a lens project onto some groundglass and then have a reflex finder connected to that..

    Any thoughts? Does that sound feasible or am I way off track with this one?

    At this stage, the only way I can somehow "previsualise" my stitched shot is by doing a 2 x stitch in portrait orientation, which roughly gives me the equivalent of a horizontal 33mm x 44mm "virtual sensor" area..

    I would like to have a bigger stitched area but still retain roughly a 4:3 or 5:4 ratio.. I know I can do a 3 x stitch but this results in a much narrower format that is something close to 3:2.. I feel the only way to achieve what I am after is to maybe do a combination of vertical and horizontal shifts or even diagonal movements.. Like I said, very hard to "previsualise" when you start doing that..

    Thanks, look forward to any thoughts or suggestions..
    That is a cool idea for a viewfinder. Best would probably be some screen from a Mamiya RB or RZ and maybe their folding waist level finder.
    One hint though - also regarding your second posting: the main limitation for movements on the HCam Master TS is actually the emount diameter !
    It all depends on the ray angle and distance of the exit pupil of the lens to the emount.
    Rule of thumb: the closer the back lens is or stays to the bajonet, the better movements will work- less vignetting will occur.
    This is also a parameter for flare btw. if the light beam gets into the system very flat he has more chance to reflect. if the lens has a
    steep angle, not much flare will occur.

    And finally: the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.
    I think we are already pretty good now.

    Regards and greetings from Germany
    Stefan
    because photography is more than technology - and " as we have done this all the time "
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  14. #114
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by wallpaperviking View Post
    Here are a couple of quick examples with the Leica R 50mm f2.

    One is taken at f11 and the other is shot wide open at f2.


    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R50mm%40f2.jpg

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...50mm%40f11.jpg
    Do you happen to have a center crop (unshifted image) from the Leica? That would help give a sense of how much shift is available with it's image circle.

    Thanks!
    Chris


    Edit: here's what I've extrapolated based on the frame lines at the outer image circle. Let me know if this is incorrect, as I'm on my first cup of coffee. Given the crop I've come up with, it looks like the Leica 50 would allow maybe 5mm of shift?Name:  LeicaR50mm@f11-Crop.jpg
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Yep, here you go.. Pretty spot on really..

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/_DSC7398.JPG

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/_DSC7374.JPG

    Really interesting to see what lenses are useable.. I mean, the Leica R 50mm f2 is pretty tiny and to have a bit of shift on it is pretty cool..

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    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Another Tip of mine: Canon EF 2,8/40mm STM Pancake.
    Around 120-130 € on Ebay, but with a very big Image circle. Tiny - and - it is sharp !!!

    Greetings from Germany
    Stefan
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan Steib View Post
    Another Tip of mine: Canon EF 2,8/40mm STM Pancake.
    Around 120-130 € on Ebay, but with a very big Image circle. Tiny - and - it is sharp !!!

    Greetings from Germany
    Stefan
    Hi Stefan, How do you focus a STM lens on the Hcam?

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by daf View Post
    Hi Stefan, How do you focus a STM lens on the Hcam?
    I thought that the adapter wasn't communicating with the body ? Aka only MF for any lenses. So I'm not sure to understand your question.

    For MF my guess would be
    1) use peaking and adjust the focus grossly, then
    2) call the magnifyier and fine tune.

    There is a switch on that lens to set it to MF, but there is no distance scale on the focusing ring, hence the first step I imagine.

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by Annna T View Post
    I thought that the adapter wasn't communicating with the body ? Aka only MF for any lenses. So I'm not sure to understand your question.

    For MF my guess would be
    1) use peaking and adjust the focus grossly, then
    2) call the magnifyier and fine tune.

    There is a switch on that lens to set it to MF, but there is no distance scale on the focusing ring, hence the first step I imagine.
    If i'm right STM lenses focus by electonic/electric wire, even for manual focusing....as the hcam has no connection, i don't get it.
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  20. #120
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Stop down to f11 and tape it to the point where the focus runs from close to infinity.
    AKA make a fixfocus/fixed aperture lens out of it. Works pretty well for landscape.

    Regards
    Stefan
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan Steib View Post
    Stop down to f11 and tape it to the point where the focus runs from close to infinity.
    AKA make a fixfocus/fixed aperture lens out of it. Works pretty well for landscape.

    Regards
    Stefan
    Well this canon 40mm looks pretty good for the price(150€) :
    https://www.alpa.ch/en/site/a-vast-c...he-alpa-12-fps
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    " the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.

    I think we are already pretty good now. "


    So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

    This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...

    I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare.. This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..

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    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by mandonbossi View Post
    " the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.

    I think we are already pretty good now. "


    So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

    This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...

    I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare.. This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..
    so you only buy products which are never again changed and improved from day one of sales ?

    Like..... what ? Metabones is on Version 4 now ? Cameras which never get upgrades like ....name any one ?
    Permanent improvement is a philosophy. What you want is stagnation.

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by mandonbossi View Post
    " the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.

    I think we are already pretty good now. "


    So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

    This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...

    I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare.. This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..

    All metal parts, very precisely adjusted(mine can be shoot wide open with perfect corners), smooth and practical defenitly has nothing to do with a 40$adapter
    Yes you have to use a lenshood/flag/compendium but Large image circle Lens+shift is always a concern with flare (not only with this adapter) I had similar problem with my digitar+cf and cambo setup...same goes with rodies...maybe you have too much expectation.
    I've bought the very very first version, the second V1 and I'm working a lot for paid jod with it and I'm still very happy. I might buy the v2 at some point.



    .

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by mandonbossi View Post
    So the Hcam adapter has been changed/improved again?

    This makes me hesitant about purchasing one as I feel like as soon as I do, it will be somehow changed in the following months...
    The good news is: the adapter you (would have) bought doesn't get any worse just because there's an improved version now. Just like an A7R didn't drop to 20 MP the moment Sony released the A7RII.

    Quote Originally Posted by mandonbossi View Post
    I feel that an adapter that costs as much as the Hcam should not be having any issues with internal flare..
    Agreed, but I have even better news: if you had the HCam, you could wait for an afternoon with really cr*ppy weather and (carefully, not obstructing the mechanism) tape some velours into the adapter as lots of people done before you on lots of adapters.

    Quote Originally Posted by mandonbossi View Post
    This is not a $40 Chinese adapter off Ebay..
    ... but not a $1.975 Cambo Actus (lens plate not included, add about $300+ for that) either.

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Is the HCam now compatible with other than Sony FE bodies ?
    Canon 5Ds ?
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    @anGy

    The HCam Master TS is and has always been compatible with all FE Bodies. We will do Canon M, MFT and Fuji X as an option next year.
    The mount of the V2 is interchangeable already , so the user will be able to exchange himself.
    As soon as Sony comes out with something new, like the thicker handgrip we adapt and improve
    Like this:

    For all the A7RII ,A7SII and A7II users, who have our
    Hcam Master TS V2, we have made a modified shorter Tilt Lock screw, that replaces the original Version.
    Reason: on some rotational angles the long one may touch the bigger handgrip of these cameras.
    The new adapters are shipped with the long version in place and the short one as a spare.
    I have some short screws for recent customers, so if you need that, please contact me, so I can mail you one.

    Concerning a version for Canon EF - 5Dsr: we also offer the Mirex versions for EOS to P645, M645 and Hasselblad V - even these can be combined with the HCam Master TS
    and will then allow shift and rise at the same time - like a view camera !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    So am not sure I entirely agree with your opinions on this but hey, this is what a forum is for...

    " The good news is: the adapter you (would have) bought doesn't get any worse just because there's an improved version now. Just like an A7R didn't drop to 20 MP the moment Sony released the A7RII."


    That might be true but the original Sony A7R had some serious design flaws that should have been recognised before it was sold to the public.. These have since been rectified in the Sony A7RII.

    " Agreed, but I have even better news: if you had the HCam, you could wait for an afternoon with really cr*ppy weather and (carefully, not obstructing the mechanism) tape some velours into the adapter as lots of people done before you on lots of adapters."

    Once again, if this is going to help with the issue of internal flare, isn't this an issue that should be addressed in the production of the adapter (not a DIY job by the paying customer). Also, looking at the adapter, I would assume it would be much easier to attach this flocking material before it has been put together..

    " ... but not a $1.975 Cambo Actus (lens plate not included, add about $300+ for that) either. "

    I agree, this is cheaper than a Cambo Actus.. If either Cambo or Arca Swiss ever come out with a working Canon Electronic adapter, these will be an appealing option. Until then, am not sure I am sold on them either as they seem to struggle with wides...

    Stefan, Is having a flocked Hcam Master something you are looking at for future versions?

  29. #129
    Senior Member Stefan Steib's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    > Stefan, Is having a flocked Hcam Master something you are looking at for future versions? <

    Even the very first adapter did not have much issues with flare. The reason why we improve what we can, is to prevent issues under any possible circumstances.
    The momentary solution is already very good, and flocking is prone to leave black particles falling off the adapter into the camera, which is an absolute nogo !

    We will definitely look for further improvements as soon as we have new ideas, that is an ongoing process. There is no such product as a finished one !
    Especially those things that look consistent and simple, are very often changed more, with subtle variations, that customers don´t even mention.
    We are "Manu"facturers in the best sense of the word, not mass producers.

    Regards
    Stefan

    info: there are new pricelists available on the facebook site, some leveling the Nikon version withV2 adapter, the price of the Canon 11-24mm complete kit even went down a bit !
    because photography is more than technology - and " as we have done this all the time "
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    With regards to having flocking material in a lens or adapter to reduce internal flare, doesn't the Canon 24mm TS-E II lens have this material in the rear section of it?

    No issues with that falling off onto the sensor right?

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by mandonbossi View Post
    With regards to having flocking material in a lens or adapter to reduce internal flare, doesn't the Canon 24mm TS-E II lens have this material in the rear section of it?

    No issues with that falling off onto the sensor right?
    This is flocked self-adhesive foil , I also use that for finishing the Canon EF-L 11-24mm (DCFix). But this is because the flocking material is embedded in the plastik carrier , so it is very stable.
    Paint may work, but as always as paintjobs are concerned - the surface needs to be absolutely clean, the paint needs to be the right one for the material and it is probably prone to differing thickness of the applied color. Lots of variables which can cause trouble. The (our)adapters are also using a special lube, that may interfere with that flocking paint.
    Too unsecure.

    Regards
    Stefan
    because photography is more than technology - and " as we have done this all the time "
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    So have been playing around with the Hcam Master and it has taken me a little while to get used to it but I think I am finally getting it... Am not particularly technical so probably took a bit longer than required

    Daf,

    I did have one question and that was mainly directed to something you posted in a previous post...

    You state;

    "but you can also make a 2 row(2x2images) free paralax stich by using the 22/45/67 degree position, and just translate from leftdown to highright, then rotate the adpater and shoot again leftup and translate to rightdown, very quickly for a larger image..."

    Can you please further explain this please?

    I have had success doing a straightforward 2x stitch in portrait orientation (giving the rough equivalent of a landscape 33mm x 44mm area) but am really looking to do a bigger one if possible..

    When referencing stitching with the Pentax 67 55mm, you state that with a "ratio 4/3 end up to around 45x57mm".

    This is what I am after, a bigger stitched area

    So have tried a few variations of your description but nothing seems to give a clean stitch unfortunately...

    Are you placing the camera in portrait or landscape orientation?


    Stefan, if you could also please chime in to how this stitch is being done it would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    I don´t use the Stitching diagonal (if I understand that right). So I cannot comment much on this.

    Stefan
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by wallpaperviking View Post
    Daf,

    I did have one question and that was mainly directed to something you posted in a previous post...

    You state;

    "but you can also make a 2 row(2x2images) free paralax stich by using the 22/45/67 degree position, and just translate from leftdown to highright, then rotate the adpater and shoot again leftup and translate to rightdown, very quickly for a larger image..."

    Can you please further explain this please?
    Hi Wallpaperviking,
    First, i'm not a stitcher expert as i never do stitching (24/36mpx is far enough for me, i don't need more)... but here i'll try to explain you how to do a cross 4images stitch with this adpater:
    - put your hcam on tripod
    - put the shift mechanism at 45° (first click)
    - put your camera body in landascape orientation
    - Shoot the first picture at 15mm LEFT UP (1)
    - Slide the body to the oppisite shift 15mm RIGHT DOWN (2)
    - turn the shift mechanism to the opposite
    -reajust the camera body position to lanscape
    - Shoot the picture at 15mm RIGHT UP (1)
    - Slide the body to the oppisite shift 15mm LEFT DOWN (2)

    It looks complicated, but in fact when you have the adapter in hands it only take few seconds...

    Then you can adjust the shift axes at 22°/45°/67° to get different image ratio..

    Hope it is clear

    The attached picture is not a real stitched picture, but it is just to show you..
    Name:  stitching.jpg
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Size:  84.1 KB
    Last edited by daf; 10th January 2016 at 15:06.
    Likes 1 Member(s) liked this post

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Daf, Thanks so much for the response, much appreciated!

    I have tried what you have suggested and have had varied results unfortunately.. Still think I must be doing something not quite right..

    When you mention "put the shift mechanism at 45° (first click)", do you actually mean that it is the second click?

    I assume that 22 is first, 45 is second, 67 is third and 90 is fourth.... Is this correct?

    It is strange, some results I am getting exactly what you describe, whilst my other results give a more panoramic stitch and I feel like is is including less of the top two images...

    Will have another look tomorrow and try and figure it out...

    Thanks so much once again!

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Just in Case people may not see the other posting - here I have shown how the 11-24mm EF-L works now vignette free at 11mm and even with shifts on the longer focal length.

    Lee filter for Canon 11-24mm - vignette free with movements !

    Greetings from Germany
    Stefan
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    When I spoke to Stefan about the click stops he told me they are at every 11.25degs so 45degs would be 4 clicks yes!?

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by craigosh View Post
    When I spoke to Stefan about the click stops he told me they are at every 11.25degs so 45degs would be 4 clicks yes!?
    there are 5 clicks on 90 º means 4 segments, so one click is 22,5 º.

    This applies to both the collar and the back clicks on the bajonett mount.

    Maybe that was a misunderstanding.

    Regards
    Stefan
    because photography is more than technology - and " as we have done this all the time "
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Daf,

    So I have just tested your technique again and have found (assuming that I am following your instructions properly) that I am only having success at the 45 degree angle (second click stop).

    Both the 22.5 degree and 67.5 do not work properly..

    Still, just having the 45 degree is good enough if it gives me a large stitch..

    Stefan, could this be due to the design change of the current Hcam, as compared to the version Daf has? Are there any other Hcam users that can verify these results? Or maybe I am doing something wrong?


    The other thing I noticed with all of these images is that they exhibit some flare, which I assume is internal flare from the adapter.. The sun was directly behind me (and even behind my apartment building) so I assume this is from the adapter.. It is not massive flare but I can still see it and it is annoying..

    What do you guys think?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Just to clarify what the images are, as they seemed to have got a bit muddled...


    1. Whole image circle stitch

    2. 4 x stitch at 22.5 degree stop

    3. 4 x stitch at 45 degree stop (shows flare best)

    4. 4 x stitch at 67.5 degree stop

    5. 4 x stitch at 45 degree stop


    Look forward to hearing what you guys think?


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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Hi what do you mean by the new design does not work properly ?
    the only difference between the old version and the new version is the old has a lever that needs to be unlocked.
    the new one has a clickstop with springs that click into position.
    there is no other difference in rotation.

    Regards
    Stefan
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Stefan,
    Please reread my post. At no point did I state that the new version does not work properly.

    I simply asked if there was any design change of the current Hcam, as compared to the version Daf has, as I have been struggling to do a 4 x image stitch as per his instructions.

    This has been illustrated by the photos I have provided. I believe this forum is exactly the place to ask such questions and hopefully have other users with similar equipment help with such queries. As stated in my original post, this could easily be something that I have misread and am not doing properly.

    With regards to the flare issue, I do believe this to be a problem, given the shooting situation and where the sun was relative to the camera. Internal flare of adapters has been heavily documented with the original Metabones Canon to Sony adapters when using lenses with large image circles..

    As documented here and many other forums..

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1247661/100

    This led to many flocking their adapters with light absorbing material to get rid of internal flare. Marc Aurel provided the template for other users to print and cut out for their own adapters. This to me is a photography forum working as it should.

    So, am curious to know how your adapter is different to the issues that people encountered with the original Metabones adapter. I have both now and do not see much difference at all. If anything, I can see the Hcam Master being more prone to internal flare as the section of the adapter that "shifts" seems quite reflective to me (as it is lubricated with some type of grease/oil.) You have suggested in the past that you do not recommend "flocking" due to particles getting on the sensor.. That is fair enough but I have no idea how to avoid the flare issue as shown in my examples above. I do not believe this is something that can be fixed by a lens hood, as mentioned, the sun was directly behind.

    Thanks. Look forward to your thoughts.

  43. #143
    Senior Member ErikKaffehr's Avatar
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Hi,

    The HCam Master TS has two internal baffles that cut of some beams of light arriving on the sensor. That may help with reducing internal reflections.

    The first day I have used the adapter with some of my Hasselblad wide angles I have seen flare, but light was extremely from the side. At that time I used a Photodiox adapter. Since than I replaced the Photodiox with a Novoflex that is nicely matted.

    The Novolflex is nicely matted.

    I have not seen flare issues recently, but the HCam is nothing I use each day in each situation. But it is always in the bag.

    Best regards
    Erik

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Quote Originally Posted by wallpaperviking View Post
    Stefan,
    Please reread my post. At no point did I state that the new version does not work properly.

    I simply asked if there was any design change of the current Hcam, as compared to the version Daf has, as I have been struggling to do a 4 x image stitch as per his instructions.

    This has been illustrated by the photos I have provided. I believe this forum is exactly the place to ask such questions and hopefully have other users with similar equipment help with such queries. As stated in my original post, this could easily be something that I have misread and am not doing properly.

    With regards to the flare issue, I do believe this to be a problem, given the shooting situation and where the sun was relative to the camera. Internal flare of adapters has been heavily documented with the original Metabones Canon to Sony adapters when using lenses with large image circles..

    As documented here and many other forums..

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1247661/100

    This led to many flocking their adapters with light absorbing material to get rid of internal flare. Marc Aurel provided the template for other users to print and cut out for their own adapters. This to me is a photography forum working as it should.

    So, am curious to know how your adapter is different to the issues that people encountered with the original Metabones adapter. I have both now and do not see much difference at all. If anything, I can see the Hcam Master being more prone to internal flare as the section of the adapter that "shifts" seems quite reflective to me (as it is lubricated with some type of grease/oil.) You have suggested in the past that you do not recommend "flocking" due to particles getting on the sensor.. That is fair enough but I have no idea how to avoid the flare issue as shown in my examples above. I do not believe this is something that can be fixed by a lens hood, as mentioned, the sun was directly behind.

    Thanks. Look forward to your thoughts.
    As you have seen yourself, that is always a combination of rotation and movements used.
    It is nearyl impossible to prevent any possible combination of lens, movement and rotation to be a little bit differing.

    Some lenses are more prone to this and the flare does not come from the adapter firstplace, it also happens in a lens when you change the used angle from the projected beam angle of a fixed mount.

    Overall we have e.g. reworked our Hartblei Lenses from the Original Zeiss/Hasselblad flare control to additionally 3 more lighttraps and a completely capsuled TS mechanism to get rid of this.
    This is the advantage of dedicated TS lenses and it also costs, must be done for each lens in specific and needs some work, time and thinking.

    But overall I think the HCam Master TS works very well, especially when compared with other solutions, even more like the fixed Metabones or similar adapters. And new lenses like the 11-24mm EF-L have a very good flare control. I have not yet seen any of this with the modified 11-24mm that we sell, the Nikon 14-24mm is equally very resistant and the 4/16-35mm EF-L seems to be on par.

    So remember: it´s a mixture of effects. Always.

    Regards
    Stefan
    because photography is more than technology - and " as we have done this all the time "
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  45. #145
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Hi,

    Some images from my HCam TSII and Sony A7rII are shown here:

    https://echophoto.smugmug.com/Technical/HCam-MasterTS

    Images here are all JPG up to original size. I will add more info.

    Best regards
    Eik

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    I have seen that some people have had success in using the Canon 16-35 zoom with the Hcam Master adapter.

    Just wondering if there is a similar Nikon zoom that gives good results?

    Am just thinking that if there was, with a simple Nikon G - Eos adapter, it would provide aperture control...

    Anybody had success in this area?

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    I don't have an answer for you, but I've thought about the exact same thing...

    I'm hoping the clear up some funds to purchase one of the HCam adapters in the next month or so and, if so, I'll post the results here.

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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    I don´t have a complete answer for you folks, but one thing I tried , was Tamron´s 15-30mm in Nikon mount, as I was planning to do the exact same thing,
    using the Novoflex EOS Nik NT Adapter to control the aperture. But as the Lens shifted inside of the barrel when zooming to the longer end and the Nikon mount is smaller than the EOS mount in diameter, the possible movements were so reduced that it didn´t work well.

    If the back lens is not shifting inside it may be working, but that depends on the lens and needs to be tested for each and every lens in specific.

    So I´m sorry for not being able to clear this up more, but It is not so easy to test all these lenses if I don´t own them.

    Greetings from Germany
    Stefan
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    So I have tested my Pentax 67 45mm lens with the Hcam Master and using Daf's stitching technique as illustrated earlier...


    I must be doing something wrong as am getting the same results as with the Pentax 645 35mm...

    Is there anybody who might be able to point out where I am possibly going wrong?

    Also, with the Pentax 67 45mm, I seem to be running into serious vignetting.. I can only assume this is the combination of the lens and maybe the combination of adapters I am using (a Fotodiox Pentax 67 - Eos).

    ErikKaffehr, are you using the Pentax 67 45mm? Are these results standard? I know it cannot be anything to do with its image circle, as this lens is obviously designed to cover 6cm x 7cm film.


    Also, is there any chance you could follow Dafs stitching directions above to possibly see where I have been going wrong? I have only had success with stitching at the 45 degree mark..

    Also, I have seen that you have a number of Hasselblad lenses for use with the Hcam Master. Have you ever considered combining this with a Mirex Hasselblad - Eos adapter, to obtain independent shifts and rises?

    Thanks so much in advance!
    Attached Images Attached Images            

  50. #150
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    Re: HCam Master TS 11-24mm

    Hi,

    I have tested the Pentax 67 45/4 twice, one time with bad results and one time with good results. Same lens, very different results.

    In the first test I had a lot of flare and chromatic aberration in the second one I have not seen any of that. First time was bad weather and second time good one.

    In the first test I used a Kipon Pentax 67 to Canon mount adapter. In the second test I used the front part of the Kipon combined with the rear part of the Novoflex I use with my Hasselblad lenses. The reason I did this is that the Novoflex is painted black matte inside while the Kipon is quite shiny black.

    In the second test the Pentax 67 45/4 was much better than the Distagon 40/4.

    I have not observed flare with the Sony A7rII/HCam Master TSII/Novoflex solution with any of my Hasselblad lenses. Right now, I think I much prefer the Pentax 67 45/4 to the Distagon 40/4. I got good results with the Distagon 60 and the Planar 100/3.5.

    But, I am not a T&S addict, I just see it as an addition to my photographic capabilities. A good option is to use Canon lenses. The 16-35/4 offers a generous amount of shift.

    What I have seen, the great limitation in working with Hasselblad or Pentax 67 lenses are the internal baffles on the Master T&S. What I could se is the inner diameter of Novoflex/Kipon adapters no real limitation.

    Chris Barret uses Hasselblad lenses on an Arca Universalis, I think, and he can do 20 mm of shift. He has a Distagon 40/4 CFE (or CFi). That lens uses the same lens group as mine.

    Best regards
    Erik


    Quote Originally Posted by wallpaperviking View Post
    So I have tested my Pentax 67 45mm lens with the Hcam Master and using Daf's stitching technique as illustrated earlier...


    I must be doing something wrong as am getting the same results as with the Pentax 645 35mm...

    Is there anybody who might be able to point out where I am possibly going wrong?

    Also, with the Pentax 67 45mm, I seem to be running into serious vignetting.. I can only assume this is the combination of the lens and maybe the combination of adapters I am using (a Fotodiox Pentax 67 - Eos).

    ErikKaffehr, are you using the Pentax 67 45mm? Are these results standard? I know it cannot be anything to do with its image circle, as this lens is obviously designed to cover 6cm x 7cm film.


    Also, is there any chance you could follow Dafs stitching directions above to possibly see where I have been going wrong? I have only had success with stitching at the 45 degree mark..

    Also, I have seen that you have a number of Hasselblad lenses for use with the Hcam Master. Have you ever considered combining this with a Mirex Hasselblad - Eos adapter, to obtain independent shifts and rises?

    Thanks so much in advance!

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