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HCam Master TS 11-24mm

Stefan Steib

Active member
I second both comments. The lens chart is great and it would be better yet to have one for the 24-70 2.8L II or 4L. That would provide a complete basic set.

Once I get this adapter I will also test it with the 17-40 4 and share the results. Now I am just waiting on Stefan to reply for that to happen :)
Send me your order (shipping and billing address, best with a phone number in case customs needs that)I send you a bill and after I receive payment I can ship off stock ! The next batch is ordered, they sell fast !

And yes: I have ordered a Canon EF-L 2,8/24-70mm USM II for testing, will receive it next week tuesday.

I need some more time to work a bit on my last test shootings, have done some modern architecture with the 11-24 and the 16-35.
New Productshots will follow (the new V2 adapter looks a bit different, but only from the back side+ the size of the opening).

Greetings from Germany
Stefan
 
How DO you operate the aperture in the Canon monster?
Prestopped down. I have a viltrox adapter that can stop the lens down on the Sony body, remove it while its stopped down and use with the selected aperture.
Not as big a nuisance as it sounds just set it to F9 or F11 and forget about it.
If you also have a Canon camera, there is another simpler way. Set the aperture, click both the depth of field and the lens lock release buttons at the same time and turn the lens to remove it.
 
Quick question, does a bigger aperture always translate to a bigger image circle? I was wondering because there is the new 16-35 4L which has a big image circle and performs wonderfully on the adapter, but there is also the bigger aperture lens 16-35 2.8L. Does it have a bigger image circle because of the bigger aperture?

Thanks
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
Quick question, does a bigger aperture always translate to a bigger image circle? I was wondering because there is the new 16-35 4L which has a big image circle and performs wonderfully on the adapter, but there is also the bigger aperture lens 16-35 2.8L. Does it have a bigger image circle because of the bigger aperture?

Thanks
Absolutely no correlation here.
BUT : Its quite often , that wider apertures are paired with an even larger lens +Image circle to make better use of the sweetspot of a lens.
But in the case of the 16-35mm2,8L the borders may be even wider, but the outer areas of the image circle are not as sharp as this newer 16-35/f4 IS USM.

Regards
Stefan
 
Just wondering if anybody knew what the closest equivalent MFDB would be, when the new Sony A7RII is stitched to a 645 area (as Daf pointed out earlier might be possible)? The sensor pitch of the A7RII is 4.5 µm. I am guessing it would be over 100mp or something like that...

Am not smart enough to figure it out myself unfortunately :p
 

mbroomfield

New member
Given a 40.4 x 53.9mm back (I got that from an !Q3 60MP back spec that has a 6um pixel) then it would be 107MP at 4.5um.
 
If my math is right, I'm getting 106.5 MP. I went with the dimensions of the IQ3 80 which is slightly smaller (physically) than the IQ3 60.
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
OK - today I have gotten the Canon EF-L 2,8/24-70 II USM

But there is bad news. This lens is not delivering more than 3-5mm of shift (maximum is at about 28mm). So no table here, I consider this as not recommendable.

Of course full tilt of 10 degrees will be possible, so for Portraits or similar that is still nice, but for all shift solutions this lens is no deal.
It "may be possible" that removing the inner covers of the rear lens will improve this a bit as there is a narrow "hole" and the lens shifts inside when zooming to the longer range,
but this is more work and I believe there are other lenses in this longer range which will work better out of the box, e.g. the 55-110 of the mamiya 645 or the short Pentax 645 zooms.

So - that was a nice try , but unfortunately not with the needed result.

Greetings from Germany
Stefan
 

BJNY

Member
OK - today I have gotten the Canon EF-L 2,8/24-70 II USM

But there is bad news. This lens is not delivering more than 3-5mm of shift (maximum is at about 28mm). So no table here, I consider this as not recommendable.

Of course full tilt of 10 degrees will be possible, so for Portraits or similar that is still nice, but for all shift solutions this lens is no deal.
It "may be possible" that removing the inner covers of the rear lens will improve this a bit as there is a narrow "hole" and the lens shifts inside when zooming to the longer range,
but this is more work and I believe there are other lenses in this longer range which will work better out of the box, e.g. the 55-110 of the mamiya 645 or the short Pentax 645 zooms.

So - that was a nice try , but unfortunately not with the needed result.

Greetings from Germany
Stefan
Thank you for this info.
 

rupho

New member
Stefan
Greetings from Hong Kong
When will you post some images?
It's a really promising product but usable image circles are a bit subjective and it would be great to be able to see images.
g
 
OK - today I have gotten the Canon EF-L 2,8/24-70 II USM

But there is bad news. This lens is not delivering more than 3-5mm of shift (maximum is at about 28mm). So no table here, I consider this as not recommendable.....
Is it possible that the new 24-70/4 canon lens can work better, any chance you can test it?

....I believe there are other lenses in this longer range which will work better out of the box, e.g. the 55-110 of the mamiya 645 or the short Pentax 645 zooms.
How do you mount those lenses on the TS V2 eos to sony mount? Do you need additional adapters?

Thanks
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
Hi Folks

I just finished some articles for german digit! magazine 04/2015 so I was really busy.

Now - from the EOS front mount of the HCam Master TS you can use either EOS mount lenses, but of course also ALL others that can be adapted to an EOS mount.

here now the requested first shots (I did them already some days ago, but sorry - I am running out of time.) these are shot with the Canon EF-L 11-24mm set to about 20mm @f11
on a Sony A7R. the cutout is at 100%. I would say - this is about 10mm shift, the Museum Brandhorst in Munich is pretty high, see people as a comparison, but it doesn´t look like the lens has any problems at all with this amount of shift. Next post will be shorter focal length.
 

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Stefan Steib

Active member
Here are some fast shots of the new version HCam Master TS V2- I will do better stuff for ads soon.

But you can already see how much bigger we made the inner opening, which allows to get spectacular movements from many interesting lenses.
Here shown with my actual favourit - the "budget TS for everyday work" Canon 16-35mm f4 IS USM II.
 

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rupho

New member
Here is another shot from that series - Canon 11-24mm at about 16mm @f11 roughly 12mm shift I did brush the top corners of the sky a bit.
See cutout - this lens is a Killer.
Thanks Stefan
I think it would be even more interesting to see part of the building in the corner of the frame. I realize that this does not make sense visually but it would allow us to review actual sharpness at given combinations of shift and focal length
Would that be possible?
Thanks
Grischa
 

chkproductions

New member
Here are some fast shots of the new version HCam Master TS V2- I will do better stuff for ads soon.

But you can already see how much bigger we made the inner opening, which allows to get spectacular movements from many interesting lenses.
Here shown with my actual favourit - the "budget TS for everyday work" Canon 16-35mm f4 IS USM II.

Stefan - I have been following this thread since the beginning. I would be most interested to see a 3 panel, vertical stitch of an interior with your Canon 16 -35mm. I am so close to committing to this setup.

Thank you for all your updates on your progress and testing.

Cheers

chk
 

Lictor

New member
Hi Stefan,

Can you tell me how you adapt the FD lenses since the HCam Master is EF mount? Or are they all converted via Ed Mika mount?

Cheers,

Daniel



Chris writes "sharp", I said the "whole image circle".
Doing architecture like in the sample I showed, includes sky very often and the corners may be neglected as the contain either sky or some trees or just not important parts of other buildings.
And also: I wrote you can focus the "unsharp areas" nearly perfectly, but because there is a field curvature (astigmatism) nearing the borders it may or may not work to use it.

This is no different than with large format lenses we used the last 150 years on viewcameras. It´s up to the photographer to creatively use these effects and build images that hold up.

About the Leica glass: I once had some Leica R lenses and also tested some:
my Impression is that with the exception of the wideangles, the lenses from 50mm and up were always built like little MF lenses with shorter Flange focal distance, having plenty of excess image circle to be able to use the center sharpness sweetspot.

My favourite fun lenses i use on the HCam Master TS are
1,2 55mm (an old Vivitar sold in Germany as Revuenon) dream bokeh - tilted it´s even better
1,2 85mm Canon FD-L (with Ed Mika mount to EF) THE Portrait monster tilted !
2,0 100mm Canon FD
2,0 135mm Canon FD

1,4 35mm Samyang
2,0 28mm Canon FD

and of course the 2,8/ 14-24mm Nikkor at open aperture tilted at 14mm
Same fun 11mm full tilted with the Canon 11-24mm EF-L

The possibilities are endless. And 10 degrees of tilt are already "A LOT" !

Greetings from Germany
Stefan
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
Hi Stefan,

Can you tell me how you adapt the FD lenses since the HCam Master is EF mount? Or are they all converted via Ed Mika mount?

Cheers,

Daniel
Hi Daniel

exactly. We have a cooperation with Ed Mika here in Europe and we even offer to remount FD lenses to EF mounts for customers if they want.

Greetings from Germany
Stefan
 

ICHBINSpunktDE

New member
There is no space for a cable to go into the 360 degree rotation and not get torn !!!!!
True. The rotator is a problem... which probably could be solved only by two ways:

- wireless connection. Forget about that, I've never mentioned it.

- allow me a german word, because i don't have the english word at my hands... i know you'll understand it: "Schleifkontakte". Increase the outer diameter of the rotator, maybe then there's enough space for a board on one side and brushes on the other one. You could possibly wire the last few inches (shifting) by cable and add Electronics from Fotodiox or Metabones. Just imagine a 11-24mm TS lens with aperture control, AF and EXIF data... oh, the possibilities!

Anybody tested the Tokina 16-28mm yet? DXOMark looks very promising, at least regarding resolution and distortion.
 
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