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HCam Master TS 11-24mm

Stefan Steib

Stefan Steib

Active member
There is not even space for "Schleifkontakte". And additionaly the even more serious problem is the contact row of pins. These pins need at least 3-4mm of depth, remember- at the standard camerapins, these are with springs and moveable. To solve this a whole different approach must be taken and it would not be cheap nor easy.

Again, I already have an Idea, but I would guess this would add 500-700 € to the costs of the adapter. I have already spent a lot of money in my life on stuff people were wanting, but later did not buy. So I will not do it just so, unless I have a very good reason. And as I have worked with the prestopped down lenses now plenty of times and didn´t mention any nuisance for my workflow, I´d say it´s not on my priority list for now.

Regards
Stefan
 
D

daf

Member
Stefan Steib said:
There is not even space for "Schleifkontakte". And additionaly the even more serious problem is the contact row of pins. These pins need at least 3-4mm of depth, remember- at the standard camerapins, these are with springs and moveable. To solve this a whole different approach must be taken and it would not be cheap nor easy.

Again, I already have an Idea, but I would guess this would add 500-700 € to the costs of the adapter. I have already spent a lot of money in my life on stuff people were wanting, but later did not buy. So I will not do it just so, unless I have a very good reason. And as I have worked with the prestopped down lenses now plenty of times and didn´t mention any nuisance for my workflow, I´d say it´s not on my priority list for now.

Regards
Stefan
Click to expand...
Hi Stefan,
A cheap and easy solution:
A simple cable going outside from lens mount to camera mount and long enough to give the rotation and shift.. with a plug on each side , so you could:
- unplugged it if you want to rotate more
- not use I if you don t need it
- switch to a new one when broken

I m ok for shooting and focusing stop down , but having lens info for lens correction would be very great...then you would only have to adjust the shift amount...
 
Stefan Steib

Stefan Steib

Active member
David - the cable is not the problem. There is no space for the contacts inside the EOS Bajonett mount ! It needs about at least 3-4mm deep mounting space, we have a max of 1,5 and even this will introduce huge problems to the mechanical stability of the construction. The other side on the emount is not much better, the contacts also would need a special custom made contact plate.
The whole TS mechanism is working on 26mm, which is not much. In theory we could do a shift only adapter and would get into the needed additional space, but then how many would buy that if it is 500 € more ? Bring me 20 written orders and we can get into it. Otherwise I see no commercial chance for it - right now......

Regards
Stefan
 
I

ICHBINSpunktDE

New member
Stefan Steib said:
David - the cable is not the problem. There is no space for the contacts inside the EOS Bajonett mount ! It needs about at least 3-4mm deep mounting space, we have a max of 1,5 and even this will introduce huge problems to the mechanical stability of the construction. The other side on the emount is not much better, the contacts also would need a special custom made contact plate.
Click to expand...
Hi Stefan,

thanks for your information... of course the contact row wants some space too, I didn't think about that. Anyway, from what I've read you have done a great job on the HCam v2!

Greetings to the beautiful Allgäu... gonna be there soon for the Schrecksee.

Best Regards
Johannes
 
Stefan Steib

Stefan Steib

Active member
Just a short info as many have asked for it - how is the lens cap fixed to the lens safely after the sunshade is gone ?
Well right now I use Velcro closures and that works nicely. May not look fashionable , but keeps the stuff rocksolid and fixed to the lens.
Better than the original clip in solution.
 

Attachments

Stefan Steib

Stefan Steib

Active member
Well of course it would be nice to get this. But how much would people pay for that ? As I said before
no TS versions of these electronic adapters exist for 70 $. To compete with this is useless, there are no earnings even if we would use childslaves , wouldn´t feed them more than potatoes and pay no taxes nor customs anywhere.

And for 999 $ extra on top of our existing adapter whis is now 795 € , how many would buy this ?
Not to speak of the problems of the missing physical space.
The prestopped down solution works "OK" so far. for all other than EOS lenses adapted it is not needed at all and
this shrinks the numbers of potential buyers even further.

There is a thread about Hasselblad possibly being bought by Phase in the MF forum. Very sad I´d say.
Thinking before acting helps a lot in this connection, and even though I only have a fraction of resources available for devellopping our products, I have learned to center to the core, cutting the phantasies off and getting stuff that works for a price.

It´s a hard lesson and it was learned by many mistakes also on my side.

But now I´m focused....... and our stuff sells very well now. :cool:

Greetings from Germany
Stefan
 
A

anGy

Member
Hi everyone,
Sorry for the 'beginner's' question:
How do we change aperture on an EOS lens when using the HCam and a Sony A7 body (if you have no Canon camera) ?
Is it necessary only to use lenses with aperture rings (also excluding the nikkor G lenses in this case) ?
Found no info in English on this product on the Hartblei website.
 
Annna T

Annna T

Active member
anGy said:
Hi everyone,
Sorry for the 'beginner's' question:
How do we change aperture on an EOS lens when using the HCam and a Sony A7 body (if you have no Canon camera) ?
Is it necessary only to use lenses with aperture rings (also excluding the nikkor G lenses in this case) ?
Found no info in English on this product on the Hartblei website.
Click to expand...
From what I understand, you have to use a trick : you mount an EOS lens on a Canon body, set the desired aperture, press the DOF button and take the lens out without shutting down the camera. I guess that the Canon body could be replaced by the Sony A7 plus Metabones smart adapter. But this is a supposition, I didn't test it by myself.
 
W

wallpaperviking

Member
So I received my Hcam Master a couple of weeks ago.. Haven't had much of a chance to play with it but from what I can tell it looks very well made and I can see it coming in very handy..

Am just wondering if anybody has any advice with regards to setting up a situation to test the image circle/sharpness of lenses?

I would mainly be looking to shoot stopped down (f11 or so) but there are a few lenses that I would be interested in shooting wide open and hopefully still having enough useable image circle.. The Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art is one that has been mentioned previously and would look to have a play around with that.. From what Stefan says, the Leica R lenses also have a large image circle and I currently have a friends 50mm f2 that I would like to test..

My current lenses are the Canon 24mm TS-E II, the Pentax 645 35mm and I am looking to purchase a Hasselblad 50mm FLE..

The other concern I have (which has been pointed out by Daf previously) is the potential for internal flare.. The adapter in parts is quite a shiny black metal and I am concerned about this..

Anyway that anybody knows to test this? Even if it just occurs very rarely, it is still a concern.. I have some Edmund Optics flocking material that I purchased when issues were reported with the Metabones adapter that I could use to flock parts of the adapter but there are obviously parts that move in the adapter and these cannot be flocked..

If I stitch all the frames from rotating the adapter, I end up with a very large file circular image and I believe that I am running into mechanical vignetting from the adapter before I am running into issues with the lenses image circle..

O.K, thanks so much in advance, look forward to hearing any suggestions!

:)
 
W

wallpaperviking

Member
The other question I had was whether there was anyway of somehow attaching an old 645 film camera reflex viewer to the adapter so that I was able to "visualise" the stitched area of a 645 frame?

It can get quite tricky trying to visualise such an area and was wondering if the use of a GroundGlass and then a reflex viewer would help with this? I think the image would be back to front but I am o.k with that..

Was thinking something along the lines of attaching something to a "Fotodiox Tough E mount" and then having a lens project onto some groundglass and then have a reflex finder connected to that..

Any thoughts? Does that sound feasible or am I way off track with this one? ;)

At this stage, the only way I can somehow "previsualise" my stitched shot is by doing a 2 x stitch in portrait orientation, which roughly gives me the equivalent of a horizontal 33mm x 44mm "virtual sensor" area..

I would like to have a bigger stitched area but still retain roughly a 4:3 or 5:4 ratio.. I know I can do a 3 x stitch but this results in a much narrower format that is something close to 3:2.. I feel the only way to achieve what I am after is to maybe do a combination of vertical and horizontal shifts or even diagonal movements.. Like I said, very hard to "previsualise" when you start doing that..

Thanks, look forward to any thoughts or suggestions.. :)
 
Stefan Steib

Stefan Steib

Active member
wallpaperviking said:
The other question I had was whether there was anyway of somehow attaching an old 645 film camera reflex viewer to the adapter so that I was able to "visualise" the stitched area of a 645 frame?

It can get quite tricky trying to visualise such an area and was wondering if the use of a GroundGlass and then a reflex viewer would help with this? I think the image would be back to front but I am o.k with that..

Was thinking something along the lines of attaching something to a "Fotodiox Tough E mount" and then having a lens project onto some groundglass and then have a reflex finder connected to that..

Any thoughts? Does that sound feasible or am I way off track with this one? ;)

At this stage, the only way I can somehow "previsualise" my stitched shot is by doing a 2 x stitch in portrait orientation, which roughly gives me the equivalent of a horizontal 33mm x 44mm "virtual sensor" area..

I would like to have a bigger stitched area but still retain roughly a 4:3 or 5:4 ratio.. I know I can do a 3 x stitch but this results in a much narrower format that is something close to 3:2.. I feel the only way to achieve what I am after is to maybe do a combination of vertical and horizontal shifts or even diagonal movements.. Like I said, very hard to "previsualise" when you start doing that..

Thanks, look forward to any thoughts or suggestions.. :)
Click to expand...
That is a cool idea for a viewfinder. Best would probably be some screen from a Mamiya RB or RZ and maybe their folding waist level finder.
One hint though - also regarding your second posting: the main limitation for movements on the HCam Master TS is actually the emount diameter !
It all depends on the ray angle and distance of the exit pupil of the lens to the emount.
Rule of thumb: the closer the back lens is or stays to the bajonet, the better movements will work- less vignetting will occur.
This is also a parameter for flare btw. if the light beam gets into the system very flat he has more chance to reflect. if the lens has a
steep angle, not much flare will occur.

And finally: the latest versions of our adapters got further improved, the surface of the visible parts is now fluted / ribbed and additionally we use an even more matte paint.
I think we are already pretty good now.

Regards and greetings from Germany
Stefan
 
Chris Barrett

Chris Barrett

Member
wallpaperviking said:
Here are a couple of quick examples with the Leica R 50mm f2.

One is taken at f11 and the other is shot wide open at f2.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14478783/[email protected]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14478783/[email protected]
Click to expand...
Do you happen to have a center crop (unshifted image) from the Leica? That would help give a sense of how much shift is available with it's image circle.

Thanks!
Chris


Edit: here's what I've extrapolated based on the frame lines at the outer image circle. Let me know if this is incorrect, as I'm on my first cup of coffee. Given the crop I've come up with, it looks like the Leica 50 would allow maybe 5mm of shift?LeicaR50mm@f11-Crop.jpg
 
Stefan Steib

Stefan Steib

Active member
Another Tip of mine: Canon EF 2,8/40mm STM Pancake.
Around 120-130 € on Ebay, but with a very big Image circle. Tiny - and - it is sharp !!!

Greetings from Germany
Stefan
 
Annna T

Annna T

Active member
daf said:
Hi Stefan, How do you focus a STM lens on the Hcam?
Click to expand...
I thought that the adapter wasn't communicating with the body ? Aka only MF for any lenses. So I'm not sure to understand your question.

For MF my guess would be
1) use peaking and adjust the focus grossly, then
2) call the magnifyier and fine tune.

There is a switch on that lens to set it to MF, but there is no distance scale on the focusing ring, hence the first step I imagine.
 
D

daf

Member
Annna T said:
I thought that the adapter wasn't communicating with the body ? Aka only MF for any lenses. So I'm not sure to understand your question.

For MF my guess would be
1) use peaking and adjust the focus grossly, then
2) call the magnifyier and fine tune.

There is a switch on that lens to set it to MF, but there is no distance scale on the focusing ring, hence the first step I imagine.
Click to expand...
If i'm right STM lenses focus by electonic/electric wire, even for manual focusing....as the hcam has no connection, i don't get it.
 
Stefan Steib

Stefan Steib

Active member
Stop down to f11 and tape it to the point where the focus runs from close to infinity.
AKA make a fixfocus/fixed aperture lens out of it. Works pretty well for landscape.

Regards
Stefan
 
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