IBIS on/off

[Cindy Flood]

Thanks. Interesting. With regards to your second paragraph, I have used SteadyShot freehand and on a tripod with an adapted Leica lens. In either case I saw a steady non-jerking image in the EVF when manually focusing the lens. I guess, I have to check this situation out more carefully.

- - - Updated - - -



Thanks. Which buttons did you assign to which functions? TIA.

I have C1 set for magnify. I have C3 set for the SteadyShot focal length. The SteadyShot on/off is set to the down button on the wheel.

I tested out the fact that SteadyShot engages on the half-press by using Guy's former Minolta 200 and focusing on some electrical wires that are about a half-block away. I can see the motion of my unsteadiness. When I half-press and SteadyShot engages, I can see the difference as the motion steadies.

 

[k-hawinkler]

I have C1 set for magnify. I have C3 set for the SteadyShot focal length. The SteadyShot on/off is set to the down button on the wheel.

I tested out the fact that SteadyShot engages on the half-press by using Guy's former Minolta 200 and focusing on some electrical wires that are about a half-block away. I can see the motion of my unsteadiness. When I half-press and SteadyShot engages, I can see the difference as the motion steadies.

Many thanks Cindy. Your approach seems excellent to me. So far I have only set C4/trash can to toggle on and off a short info display of a menu item.

I particularly like your setting: "The SteadyShot on/off is set to the down button on the wheel." That's pure genius! Thanks. So far, I hadn't managed to get anything to be useful on that down button. I certainly will use your setting for that button.

Right now magnification is still on my C2 button. I have to experiment whether for my hands it's better to have that on C1.

I will have to see how your setting of C3 will work for me.

In any case, I agree, it's very easy to detect if SteadyShot works properly. If it does, the image in the EVF stabilizes beautifully. The opposite is also easy to detect. :grin:

Thanks again for your excellent advice. Much appreciated.

 

[Cindy Flood]

Many thanks Cindy. Your approach seems excellent to me. So far I have only set C4/trash can to toggle on and off a short info display of a menu item.

I particularly like your setting: "The SteadyShot on/off is set to the down button on the wheel." That's pure genius! Thanks. So far, I hadn't managed to get anything to be useful on that down button. I certainly will use your setting for that button.

Right now magnification is still on my C2 button. I have to experiment whether for my hands it's better to have that on C1.

I will have to see how your setting of C3 will work for me.

In any case, I agree, it's very easy to detect if SteadyShot works properly. If it does, the image in the EVF stabilizes beautifully. The opposite is also easy to detect. :grin:

Thanks again for your excellent advice. Much appreciated.

You are welcome. One more thing, on the C1 and focus button (AF/MF), I mounted Stainless steel buttons from rluther.com. I used to make my own button extensions with Sugru, and that works well, too. The Stainless steel button on the magnify button helps me to find it without taking my eyes away from the viewfinder. If anyone is interested in Stainless steel buttons, the part number is 4SB-007 for 2 large and 2 small. They are pricey, but worth it. I have them on both my A7rII and A7II full spectrum.

 

[k-hawinkler]

You are welcome. One more thing, on the C1 and focus button (AF/MF), I mounted Stainless steel buttons from rluther.com. I used to make my own button extensions with Sugru, and that works well, too. The Stainless steel button on the magnify button helps me to find it without taking my eyes away from the viewfinder. If anyone is interested in Stainless steel buttons, the part number is 4SB-007 for 2 large and 2 small. They are pricey, but worth it. I have them on both my A7rII and A7II full spectrum.

Thanks Cindy. That's another great idea I will explore as my finger tips are not as sensitive to touch anymore as they once were.

My pointing finger has also troubles with distinguishing the front wheel from the rough rubbery parts in its neighborhood. But I am getting better at that. I wonder though how to improve that issue.

Thanks again.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Crap I ordered the buttons. LOL

 

[Cindy Flood]

crap i ordered the buttons. Lol

lol

Thanks Cindy. That's another great idea I will explore as my finger tips are not as sensitive to touch anymore as they once were.

My pointing finger has also troubles with distinguishing the front wheel from the rough rubbery parts in its neighborhood. But I am getting better at that. I wonder though how to improve that issue.

Thanks again.

I don't have any solution for that one.

 

[k-hawinkler]

Crap I ordered the buttons. LOL

Me too. Just ordered two sets. One for A7r, one for A7r2. :grin:

 

[gurtch]

I just got the A7RII, but with my Sony A900 with IBIS, and my Nikon D800E using VC lenses, I have been able to use a monopod and leave VC "ON" with good results. Anyone know if you can use a monopod with the A7RII and leave Steady Shot "ON"? I know I can test it, but I thought someone may have already tried it. I dislike tripods, but love monopod shooting!
Thanks
Dave

 

[Jim DE]

Cindy, Some great ideas and recomendations that I for one will surely use........ thanks!


Guy with the 16-35 for example there is no on/off switch for the OSS on lens so I assume the a7rII shuts it off and uses its own IBIS for stabilization in auto. All my other Minolta/Sony cameras could be used with stabilization on a tripod and I never saw a problem even though the owners manual said to turn it off when on a tripod. This a7rII when used with the IR remote and using auto focus while on a tripod if left alone and slowly composing the shot then taking it worked ok. But quickly grab the camera tripod assembly and turn it 180 degrees and quickly fire off a shot at something behind you and the images are without a focus point anywhere and look as if the camera was shaking violently during the shot. This is the only distinction I can see as most of the bridge shots were trash and most of the slow steady oceanfront shots looked great.

IT IS NOT THE CAMERA'S FAULT in any way as the owners manual is very specific about this ... IT WAS MY LAZY ARSE's FAULT I just know not to be lazy again as it will punish me for my stupidity


Just ordered a set of buttons

 

[Jim DE]

Dave I have never used my a7rII on a monopod but my guess would be steady shot on because with a monopod usually there is still some movement.

To be honest, I am thinking with OEM glass to just use handhold from now on as the IBIS and higher iso performance is so good. I have been a die in the wool tripod user for scenics up to now. I will surely still use a tripod for my Zeiss CG rangefinder glass but the FE glass may just go tripodless I will have to experiment more with this before I make a final decision but yesterday got me thinking.....

 

[k-hawinkler]

Frankly, so far I have not noticed any problems with leaving IBIS On even when on a tripod. I have to have a closer look at that.

 

[Godfrey]

Also for Olympus IBIS it is advised to switch it off when using a tripod. ...

Not just advised. With lenses at the extremes of the lens range, it's required. The ZD 11-22/2.8-3.5 on the E-M1 when fitted to a tripod and set to anything shorter than about 15mm produces blurry results with IS on. Turn IS off and it produces clear, sharp images.

G

 

[dmward]

I just got the A7RII, but with my Sony A900 with IBIS, and my Nikon D800E using VC lenses, I have been able to use a monopod and leave VC "ON" with good results. Anyone know if you can use a monopod with the A7RII and leave Steady Shot "ON"? I know I can test it, but I thought someone may have already tried it. I dislike tripods, but love monopod shooting!
Thanks
Dave

Dave, Michael Reichmann on Luminous Landscape has an article about using monopod and gamble head with long zoom on with an A7II. He talks about manually setting the focal length etc. which suggests that the IBIS was switched on an functioning.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

I would leave IBIS on with a monopod.

 

[Wayne Fox]

at what point does solid hand holding, like propped against a wall or post, become like a tripod in this regard?

I think no matter how well you prop yourself against something you would be close to a good tripod and need to disable steady shot. The sensels are microscopic-smaller than a red blood cell. Doesn't take much motion to smear data into adjacent sensels.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Thing is Wayne we are finding out even on a tripod with IBIS on it has no ill effects . I tested it as well as Mike and we are seeing no difference . My gut feeling is once IBIS senses no movement it just goes to rest.

Our tests are in the A7rII Batis 25, 85 and 35 1.4 thread

http://www.getdpi.com/forum/sony/55...mm-batis-85mm-sony-35mm-1-4-system-tests.html

 

[jlm]

wayne
think i'm confused about your point...

 

[mwalker]

I think I get it now, on the 90 mac the switch on the lens turns off or on the cameras ibis. With both being "on" doesn't matter. When on tripod turn lens sw off. Sorry but this system is new to me.

 

[Jim DE]

Thing is Wayne we are finding out even on a tripod with IBIS on it has no ill effects . I tested it as well as Mike and we are seeing no difference . My gut feeling is once IBIS senses no movement it just goes to rest.

Our tests are in the A7rII Batis 25, 85 and 35 1.4 thread

http://www.getdpi.com/forum/sony/55...mm-batis-85mm-sony-35mm-1-4-system-tests.html

Guy, Just a point to consider....... the 35 f1.4 and the 25 Batis are non-optically stabilized lenses ..... only the 85 Batis has image stabilization (OIS) but not defined as Sony OSS in it's nomenclature and could very well be a Cosina manufactured lens by recent web information about who warrants it in Japan.

Thus 2/3 of your testing had only the IBIS system of the a7rII involved without a in-lens stabilization system as well...... the 85mm could have a completely different stabilization (than say the 16-35 OSS or other Sony lenses with OSS) or a improved shutoff when connected to a IBIS body which the older Sony OSS lenses may not have as they were developed prior to bodies with IBIS. I am no engineer or scientist but your test could be a apples to oranges type comparison to what I experienced the other day. I have not and probably will not do any further testing as that stuff is just not me and my time is limited when I am out at a location. I get B slapped once and learn from it and take steps not to be B slapped by the same thing again I know how to avoid this and will..........

As I have stated before all my other bodies with stabilization have only used unstabilized glass and I have never had a single issue with leaving the stabilization on on a tripod. The other day I had a OSS lens on a IBIS body with the stabilization system on auto and when I picked up the tripod/camera combo lifted it/ turned it 180 degrees/ quickly framed and shot using a IR remote I lost most of those shots without any definable location for the AF point definable as the image was so blurred. I do remember that the lights under the bridge and across it showed a diagonal movement in a 7:30 to 1:30 direction FWIW and the exposure was .5 a sec or longer for those bridge shots and the sunrise shots were higher shutter speeds as I was shooting in A mode. When I reposition the tripod back out to the east and took a longer period from moving to actually taking the shot the shots came out fine.

Lesson learned for me at least........ don't be lazy with this system and turn the friggin IBIS off when on a tripod as the manual states because it has bit me once Very easy and quick to accomplish now with the down button assigned to IBIS on/off a Cindy suggested: thanks Cindy!

 

[Guy Mancuso]

My test was done with the 85 Batis but I want to try my Minolta 200mm 2.8 and see how that does. Maybe today I'll get to it.