The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Fun with the Lumix 20mm f/1.7 (Image Thread)

biglouis

Well-known member
The G1 and 20/1/7 is an absolutely marvellous combination, and the files are lovely. Here's a snapshot taken this morning, in my lady's boudoir.

ƒ2 seems like a lovely spot for this lens, too. Reminds me of yesteryear...

Original (but resized for here) and actual pixels:

(testing the 'upload via URL option)
Outstanding!
 

kit laughlin

Subscriber Member
@ Brian and biglouis: A pleasure; like many here, we shoot what's to hand... and I have been using some of the cat images to learn C1 Pro 6. The local adjustment feature is very interesting; I used it here on her face.

My lady, who has no intrinsic interest in photography, liked this one for its OOF characteristics. I think this lens is simply outstanding. Cheers to all, kl
 

mediumcool

Active member
Opened cat pic in C1 5.2 and found it a bit pink (very technical term!).

Used the *white balance* eyedropper on OOF foreground assuming it to be white (tried the window frame first but that made everything a bit harshly cyan).

It’s a lovely lens!

 

kit laughlin

Subscriber Member
Thanks for that; the light in that room is pinkish (wall colour). I would probably make the WB slightly warmer; yours is accurate, but the resulting image is a bit clinical, for me. Cheers and thanks again, kl
 

mediumcool

Active member
Yes, it’s impossible to know what colours are really like; and there are some funny colour changes running through different areas. I often use the desaturate sponge in Photoshop when faced with odd-colour BGs.

Interesting leftover from my days making duplicate slides and transparencies in the ’70s — my employer stressed that if I was going to have a colour shift, red was the best, followed by yellow; green, magenta, cyan and blue were the worst. Still follow this advice to this day ...
;)
 
Last edited:

Leigh

New member
Used the *white balance* eyedropper on OOF foreground assuming it to be white...
You can't white balance on white. White contains no color information, so there's no way to determine what needs to be adjusted.

You must white balance on a neutral gray, like a gray card or a cat. :angel:

- Leigh
 

mediumcool

Active member
You can't white balance on white. White contains no color information, so there's no way to determine what needs to be adjusted.
You must white balance on a neutral gray, like a gray card or a cat. :angel:
- Leigh


Um, the dialogue in Capture One is called WHITE BALANCE, and I clicked on the OOF foreground, as stated (brightness around 150 or so). Not white (255).

I do not work for Phase One so there is no point me asking them to change the dialogue name. It should be called something like *Neutral Balance* ...
 

kit laughlin

Subscriber Member
Leigh, with respect, you are in error. Any white, or grey, object can be used to assess white balance, providing no channels are blown. The terms "white" or "grey" mean, literally, absence of colour. "Absence of colour" means that no channel is dominant; that is, for any given luminance, all channels will show the same numerical values. Mediumcool used an object expected to be white (a sheet) with a luminance value of ~150, so perfectly suited to this purpose.

Put simply, any white/grey object in a scene can be used this way; the processing program simply ascribes equal values to the RGB channels for the selected object, independent of brightness. This ascription assumes that the white or grey object reflects equal amounts of all three channels, and hence is deemed to be neutral. The result is that any colour cast (in the example in question, light reflected from the walls) is eliminated thereby, giving accurate colours—or, at least, a place to start. HTH, kl
 

mediumcool

Active member
Leigh, with respect, you are in error. Any white, or grey, object can be used to assess white balance, providing no channels are blown. The terms "white" or "grey" mean, literally, absence of colour. "Absence of colour" means that no channel is dominant; that is, for any given luminance, all channels will show the same numerical values. Mediumcool used an object expected to be white (a sheet) with a luminance value of ~150, so perfectly suited to this purpose.

Put simply, any white/grey object in a scene can be used this way; the processing program simply ascribes equal values to the RGB channels for the selected object, independent of brightness. This ascription assumes that the white or grey object reflects equal amounts of all three channels, and hence is deemed to be neutral. The result is that any colour cast (in the example in question, light reflected from the walls) is eliminated thereby, giving accurate colours—or, at least, a place to start. HTH, kl
Well said, Kit. Let’s keep this thread on track! Thanks, mate.
 

mediumcool

Active member
Here is another Panasonic 20/1.7 shot from a few days ago, a Portrait of The Artist as [not] a Young Man. My friend was unfamiliar with the camera so shot at 1/200 f5.6 ISO400 — would have been better f2-ish.

Grey balance was pulled from the *grey* hair on the side of the head!

Location: Austral Hotel, Rundle Street, ADELAIDE (nice burgers and Vale Ale)
 

Leigh

New member
Any white, or grey, object can be used to assess white balance, providing no channels are blown.
That's correct. But the point about none of the channels being saturated is critical.

White, in the digital sense, means 255/255/255. If the balance is in error, you might have 255/255/250 or some other combination. While it's possible to observe that an error exists, it's not possible to assess the magnitude of the error because you don't know the true value(s) of the saturated channel(s).

If you reduce the channel saturation down to 200/200/200 or any other value(s) below saturation, then an accurate assessment can be made. But the color being evaluated is no longer white, it's gray. This is true even if the original subject is pure white, but under-exposed.

- Leigh
 

biglouis

Well-known member
Wardrobe Terrace, EC4

This lens continues to astound me when used at its widest aperture. A lovely back alley in London's Blackfriar's district, little changed since the 17th century.

20/1.7 iso800 f1.7 1/60

 
E

ellemand

Guest
Hi all.
I wish you all af happy newyear.

Best wishes
Ellemand

Panasonic GF-1 and 20 mm.
 
Top