Alex Souvorov
New member
Well, it is only 10mm difference:ROTFL:I think you mean 90/2.8, tho.
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Well, it is only 10mm difference:ROTFL:I think you mean 90/2.8, tho.
Robert,I really like the 35/2 Planar. These were shot at f/2.
Monza, I did read your post, and yes, I do understand the surfaces that are required to have two gears intermesh. I would need to bring this into work to use a microscope to see if the "gear teeth" in the ring are actually "gear teeth" or something else. So, some of the problem may be due to inappropriate teeth design like you are saying. However, even with the pinion gear removed, it still feels rough when the ring is rotated. What you did not see was the wear marks in the anodization of the aluminum hub where the teeth are wearing into the hub. I am thinking there are burs from machining the ring that they did not remove adequately.It is rough because the outside gear teeth are not properly designed. For gear to mesh properly, there are both straight and curved surfaces on the gear teeth. They have taken an off the shelf pinion and machined one end to fashion the drive screw, but those outside gears on the ring are not really gears. Refer to the earlier post with the gear design video: http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showpost.php?p=199062&postcount=382
There are very few specialty manufacturers that can machine gears to the high tolerances required, those that can do so, charge accordingly....$$$$.
My first design was similar to this, I'll post some drawings. It would have been a $500 adapter, if not more.
Grease isn't going to help...
Thank you CPWarner!!! This is a great shot and explanation of what is going on with this item. I think that maybe the people selling this have realized this as it is now selling for US$149.00 but through a different seller. Boy am I glad I did not jump into buyinh one of these.I decided to take apart my Lens-Workshop Contax G to m4/3 adapter to see why it feels so rough. The result was that it was not too great a surprise why. The big ring that focuses things is on the inside a big gear. The roughness comes from the fact that it rubs directly against a the metal hub, and one has metal gear teeth scraping against the metal hub.
Additionally, the smaller gear connected to the drive pin also just turns in a metal pin. There are no bearings anywhere. This is cheap construction for what they are charging, in my opinion. It was a good idea, but bad implementation. They failed to even putt a bushing of something like Delrin between the moving metal parts. That would have improved things dramatically. I also do not believe that this will "wear in" and become dramatically better. I am debating about putting a little grease in this to improve things.
Your welcome, save your $ for Monza's adapter...Yes, thanks CPWarner, for saving us trouble and expense!
I use three manual focus lenses on my GF1, a Contax G 45mm F2.0, Contax G 90mm F2.8, and a Canon 135mm F2.8. The Canon is the most challenging and I only found it to work for me when I used the live viewfinder on the GF1. The effective focal length is very long using the LCD. The 45mm is great as well as the 90mm.Have any of you had the experience of using a manual focus lens on both the GF1 and any of the Olympus micro 4/3rds bodies? The choice is driving me crazy, and I will be using nothing but Contax G lenses, hopefully with monza's adapter. Olympus IBIS on the one hand vs. way better LCD resolution on the GF1, for example. I've also read conflicting reports of how MF assist by way of magnification on the LCDs differs on the different cameras. The choice between GF1, E-P2 and E-PL1 seems a very tough decision.
In any event, what will be fantastic is the opportunity to preset the aperture, preset the focus on a G lens and go hyperfocal for grab shots.
From what I can see, they look like shark's teeth. If you do put it under a scope, let us know what you find.Monza, I did read your post, and yes, I do understand the surfaces that are required to have two gears intermesh. I would need to bring this into work to use a microscope to see if the "gear teeth" in the ring are actually "gear teeth" or something else. So, some of the problem may be due to inappropriate teeth design like you are saying. However, even with the pinion gear removed, it still feels rough when the ring is rotated. What you did not see was the wear marks in the anodization of the aluminum hub where the teeth are wearing into the hub. I am thinking there are burs from machining the ring that they did not remove adequately.
You are right, lubricants will not help.
It's good to see the 35mm lens performing that well. Better bokeh than usual from Zeiss, but still very much a Zeiss! There is some (and then I mean "some" as in little) swirl effect though. Interesting!A few shots I took today using the 35/2 Planar. This is my new favorite adapted lens.