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Thread: GF1 IR

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    GF1 IR

    Well, I just got it back from Precision Camera -- did the 665 visible IR conversion -- and am messing around with it trying to figure it out before I write my write-up. Here are some of my first tries and I'd appreciate feedback on the processing. All images were taken with the 14-45:









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    Re: GF1 IR

    Congratulations Jack welcome to IR land.
    Don Libby
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Numbers 3&4 in the fog are just fantastic. Not sure how you processed to retain the green in the grass but do tell !!!!!

    Number 1 I like but I think my monitor at work is crushing the blacks in the big shadow of the roof. Is there a way to add more contrast in the sky (clouds) to balance the barn?

    Number 2 the detail seems a little mushy and almost like the whole lens has a hot spot (or at least the foreground)

    Number 4 gives me a slightly uneasy feeling nothing to do with IR - because of the curve of the traintracks it feels like a slightly tilted horizon.

    Too much feedback ???

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    Well, I ... am messing around with it trying to figure it out before I write my write-up. Here are some of my first tries and I'd appreciate feedback on the processing. ]
    One is very nice but I wonder if the highlights on the tree on the right might be a bit blown out?

    Two seems very soft...wonder if a moderate sharpening would define the corral a bit.

    Five seems a bit low contrast for the subject.

    Three and four are wonderful...very ethereal light and mood.

    Overall great start...what exposure times with the conversion? How do you adjust for focus?

    Looks like Terry has basically nailed my thoughts.

    Bob

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    Re: GF1 IR

    nice work!

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    Well, I just got it back from Precision Camera -- did the 665 visible IR conversion -- and am messing around with it trying to figure it out before I write my write-up. Here are some of my first tries and I'd appreciate feedback on the processing. All images were taken with the 14-45:




    Like this one.
    Uwe Steinmueller
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    Editor&Owner of Digital Outback Photo
    http://www.outbackphoto.com

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    Re: GF1 IR

    IMHO, with the 665nm filter, it is perhaps best to use it for false color IR with punchy colors.

    B&W images appear very low in contrast. It is a special look, almost like aged prints.

    All images look to be foggy and set a mood.

    BTW, Jack, the conversion- does it hold up infinity with all your lenses?

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    Re: GF1 IR

    I had my 1DsII converted using the 665 filter and agree it gives that weird punchy color effect. I tried the conversion to B&W in C1 and CS4 with bad results; it wasn’t till I used Canon Digital Pro that I found the answer. I’d suggest the use of the Panasonic’s software to see how the B&W conversion looks; if it turns out anything like Canon’s then there should no problems.

    All in all I've been very pleased with the B&W from a 665 filter.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    I'll try and answer these in bulk.

    First retaining the greens -- with the 665 conversion, at least on the GF1, the greens remain pretty "normal" which was a surprise and somewhat disappointing. However, it works for the fog shots.

    On the two B&W's I tried to add a "halation" effect, and that is what causes the soft, hot look on the highlights.

    Focus: Precision adjusted the focus for the IR band. However, with the GF1 conversion, the sensor gets set back a bit so you lose crisp infinity focus at the wide end -- 25 Meters seems about it at the 14 setting, but you get to maybe 100 meters at the 45 setting. There is apparently a lens fix for this but then the 14-45 loses a bit of close focus ability when used on a normal camera, so I am still considering that one.

    So far, I not overly impressed with the contrast in the B&W conversions --- it seems about like a visible light conversion, albeit with a bit more contrast in the sky. I am also a bit dissatisfied that the greens remain so green, and don't go "light" -- this is a puzzle frankly. One thing I am going to experiment with is swapping the Green channel with the Blue instead of the Red and Blue in post. I am also going to try and get some more information from the folks at Precision -- who by the way are VERY easy to deal with and have been quite helpful and responsive to all my inquiries!

    I didn't like the train shot either, simply because it doesn't even resemble IR -- and I posted it because of that.

    The two tree and fog shots are my favorites too, and the lone tree is my stand out favorite, though I like the B&W barn shot too -- and FWIW that barn was bright red! But, the dark foreground on the barn is actually new green grass, while the lighter parts are patches of older dead grass...

    Exposure: Exposures were pretty normal, all shots were hand-held, and most were like 1/30th to 1/60th at f5.6. One nice thing about the 665 conversion is you get usable exposures and can still add a 720nm filter for stronger IR effects when desired.
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    One thing I am going to experiment with is swapping the Green channel with the Blue instead of the Red and Blue in post.
    Jack - the lone tree in the fog is lovely.

    In addition to swapping channels try inverting channels in LAB mode. I had some good success with this. Also, I would be very tempted to try some portraits or people shots with your camera - the mood and sensitivity in the images you posted could be well suited for this.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Jack – Very strange regarding the greens. I had a very long conversation with Precision shortly after getting the 1DsII back regarding obtaining a proper custom white balance. I had to go out and find a patch of green grass to shoot to get the custom WB. I don’t get the same effect as you’re getting in that I don’t keep the greens. Difference in sensors? I don’t think so.

    We’re making a speed run to the South Rim this weekend and will take the IR and shoot some grass and post it for you so that you can see the difference.

    What type of imaging software does Panasonic offer? Is it similar to Canon? Have you tried it with conversions?

    Don
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    Re: GF1 IR

    My 10D was converted a couple of years ago by Lifepixels. They set a custom WB there--but I changed it a bit to suit. I had to shoot a normal 'custom' WB to get the look I wanted (like Don I shot foliage/grass).

    Diane.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Few things to consider:

    1. The AA filter stack is (assuming it is the same as the one in G1) 2.75mm thick while most easily available glass stocks (IR or otherwise) is 2.50mm thick.

    2. There is no room to "adjust" any focus with the sensor units in these cams (unlike a regular DSLR).

    3. Even with a 720nm filter the sensor gets exposed ~2 stops over a regular NMOS sensor.

    4. All m4/3rds lenses have pretty efficient IR block filtration. Best to use old manual focus lenses. I strongly recommend Olympus (real) Pen F lenses.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Clearly WB is important, and I used both the one they set for me, and my own -- which happen to be identical, though I used the sky which is what I did with my last conversion. I tried WBing on the green in the raw converter and in CS to no luck -- even though my dropper in C1 and CS showed neutral readouts to within a point, the green still looked green . As soon as it brightens up outside, I will try an in-camera WB on my lawn.

    Obviously I need to play around with it a bit more since if I can't kill the green, it's of little use for false-color IR effects. (Though the sepia-and-green effect I was able to render in the tree and fog shots seems to work okay.) I wasn't aware the new 4/3rds lenses had effect IR cut onboard -- that would explain my results. I may have to try a 720 over the front and see what happens. Maybe Precision has some ideas too, so I'll contact them next week...

    Don, I have not even loaded the GF1 software and so far have only used C1 to convert the raws. Frankly, knowing my lazy-butt self, I would probably not be inclined to even shoot the GF1 if I needed to use another converter. I know it sounds ridiculous, but I just hate using multiple converters. Now thinking I should have converted a Canon...
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    Re: GF1 IR

    I have been shooting with ir with a converted Canon G9, which I had converted soon after the G9 was introduced. Life Pixel converted my G9 with a R72 equivalent filter and have been pleased with the results. I do not recollect ever having a green haze other than by design in PP, nor did I have issue with focus at infinity. I did have and still have problems with focus with subjects and objects that are very close. When I got my G1, I intended to convert it to ir. I would have done it sooner, but I liked the G1 so much with conventional photo I have not converted it and still use my G9 for ir. This thread is particularly relevant to me since I was intending to convert the G1 at some future time with a 665 filter so I am very interested in Jack's conclusions after does further testing.

    Jack -- I generally adjust custom white balance by pointing it at sunlight glass nearly every time when I shoot IR. It works for the ir converted filter in my G9.

    Howard
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Mini update:

    The sun isn't shining yet, but I did set a new WB of my fog-lit lawn that looks better -- I can actually make greens go light in the B&W, but they're still a bit green in the raw file, not gray. And my R<>B channel swap now generates more like the right kind of false color. Hopefully the sun will be out later and I can try and get a better in cam WB.
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post

    Don, I have not even loaded the GF1 software and so far have only used C1 to convert the raws. Frankly, knowing my lazy-butt self, I would probably not be inclined to even shoot the GF1 if I needed to use another converter. I know it sounds ridiculous, but I just hate using multiple converters. Now thinking I should have converted a Canon...
    Jack - I'm tempted to say "Go big or go home" but I'll refrain.

    Give the camera time to settle in. As much as you might hate to do it load the software and at least give it a try. I resisted loading Canon software till I got to the point of why not. The files in C1 looked "okay" the files in CS4 just sucked however I soon found that opening the files in Digital Pro tweaking them some then directly in to ACR solved all my problems; the false colors looked so much better and the black & white as you've seen rocks.

    I totally agree with you that it just sucks having to use another program however it's only for one camera.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Don,

    Well I broke down and installed the Panny's bundled raw processor, which happened to be a version of silky pix. Those results were disastrous, worse than ACR: noise was horrible and like ACR it cannot accommodate a low enough color temp to subdue the red.

    I confirmed the camera is indeed very sensitive to IR -- I viewed my TV remote and activating the remote shows the beam and virtually blows out the display on the converted camera (appears bluish-white though???). Plus the beam cannot be seen at all on my stock body.

    As of right now, I am stymied... &
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    Don,

    Well I broke down and installed the Panny's bundled raw processor, which happened to be a version of silky pix. Those results were disastrous, worse than ACR: noise was horrible and like ACR it cannot accommodate a low enough color temp to subdue the red.

    I confirmed the camera is indeed very sensitive to IR -- I viewed my TV remote and activating the remote shows the beam and virtually blows out the display on the converted camera (appears bluish-white though???). Plus the beam cannot be seen at all on my stock body.

    As of right now, I am stymied... &
    Jack--I'm not sure of what the 665 conversion is--may have to check it out, but on my Lifepixel conversion of 10D, I had them do a 'standard'--so that unless I do a custom WB I get a red/magenta file--I can easily get to a false color IR without much problem. I've used an action from Kromagery (Australia) that does it quickly without me having to do all the channel switches--well, it does it for me without effort--and then I can move from there with the adjustment layers it creates. Do you think this is not the right conversion for this camera? I was wondering what Cindy Flood had done for hers--I thought she was doing some false color IR.

    Here's the page from Kromagery--this might be of interest to you
    http://khromagery.com.au/ir_raw.html

    and this page has the link to the action
    http://khromagery.com.au/digital_ir.html
    Its way down the page under #5 in the false color section.

    I don't know if these will be of any help or not, but they do point out the difference in the G1 conversion at the top, and since the GF1 has same sensor, it might give you something to consider.

    Diane

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Jack, I already determined the IR response and reported it here:

    http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11469

    from that thread:

    I did remove the UV/IR/AA filter stack. I can see in IR very well.

    The modified G1 cam:

    IR response is about +2 stops (Hoya R72) responsive than the stock G1 (ie., relative to the Visible reading) about -1 with a Heliopan R780 and about -3~4 stops with a Heliopan R1000 filter.
    I have mentioned to Cindy here about the response as well as the efficient IR cut coatings on the m4/3rds lenses.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    I hear you Vivek.

    I had the 665 NM conversion done and think that perhaps I should have done a 720 or maybe even a 770 with this sensor. With the 665, I get an almost normal green channel in the histo, a pushed red as we'd suspect, and a virtually non-existent blue. And if I understand this correctly, green -- mostly plants full of chlorophyl which reflects IR like a mirror -- should be virtually non-existent and blue should be something low... Again, why does my TV remote show up as bright cyan in my LCD -- shouldn't it be white?
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Jack, I just adjusted the G1 IR raw file so that it was a little underexposed. I took it into CS4 and used the channel mixer. I had an IR preset (that I saved) which set the red channel to R0, G0, B+100, the green channel to R0, G+100, B0, and the blue channel to R+100, G0, B0. That gave the false color effect by swapping the blue and red channels. Then I used the Hue Saturation adjustment panel to finish the color tweaking. After that it was process to taste.

    Last edited by Cindy Flood; 10th January 2010 at 21:02.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Jack: For what it's worth, I had a G10 converted by Precision (at 720), but until I went out and shot a custom wb on my lawn on a sunny day I got mediocre results -- now with the custome wb it's what you would expect. Good luck! John.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Folks,

    This is not the first IR camera I've owned. I have done all of the normal stuff: set WB on greenery, swap R and B channels via the Channel mixer, set levels, etc. I've even run the same images through dozens of WB settings during raw trying to get the greens to go translucent and bottom line is no matter what settings i use, I am still getting mostly GREEN GREEN's in my images! Which of course remain mostly GREEN after a R and B channel swap, since the green channel is left alone. (In point of fact, the original yellow greens swap to a cyan-greens after the R<>B swap, but regardless it is still too green.) I can make a high-contrast B&W, but it takes a lot of work and the greens don't go white, they stay mostly below 128 gray unless they're lit by direct sunlight like the trees in the foreground below.

    Here is a typical example of what I'm getting. This is the in-camera jpeg straight out of the camera, just downsized in CS, after a greenery under sunlight WB. The image contains a variety of green trees, green grass, dirt, blue sky and white clouds. And of course the raw looks just like it under "as-shot" settings in the converter, though I can push it around significantly:
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Cindy,

    I love the ir car. Do you have problems with infinity focus at the "wide end" like Jack has experienced?

    Jack indicated earlier in this thread: "Focus: Precision adjusted the focus for the IR band. However, with the GF1 conversion, the sensor gets set back a bit so you lose crisp infinity focus at the wide end -- 25 Meters seems about it at the 14 setting, but you get to maybe 100 meters at the 45 setting. There is apparently a lens fix for this but then the 14-45 loses a bit of close focus ability when used on a normal camera, so I am still considering that one."

    Howard

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Howard, I sold mine to another member a while back. Maybe he will read this and answer. He is very happy with my Precision converted G1 and 14-45 lens. He has experience with other IR converted cameras and I don't.
    If I was doing it again, I would not do the false color 665nm (I'm not really a false color fan) and I would send my Pen 20 f/3.5 to be calibrated with the body. (Vivek says that not much calibration is possible with the G1.)
    I never output a jpeg from my G1 IR, but I did not seem to have the problems with my G1 conversion that Jack is having. I would think that G1 and GF1 would behave the same.
    BTW, I obtained the IR filter that was removed from mine and sent it to Vivek. He took a G1 apart, so I defer to him on the workings of the G1.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Cindy,

    I have been shooting IR for about 3 years, principally with a Canon G9 ir converted by Life Pixel. Not all lenses are suitable for IR as some produce hot spots. I would check with Precision before converting your Pen and having it calibrated to the 20 f3.5, to see if they can verify whether the 20mm lens is prone to hot spots.

    Howard

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    I hear you Vivek.

    I had the 665 NM conversion done and think that perhaps I should have done a 720 or maybe even a 770 with this sensor. With the 665, I get an almost normal green channel in the histo, a pushed red as we'd suspect, and a virtually non-existent blue. And if I understand this correctly, green -- mostly plants full of chlorophyl which reflects IR like a mirror -- should be virtually non-existent and blue should be something low... Again, why does my TV remote show up as bright cyan in my LCD -- shouldn't it be white?

    Jack, I know your IR experience with various formats and systems and sensors. That is why I was pointing out the difference here with the hardware.

    I presume the Bayer filter in combination with the 665nm and lenses (which also cut the IR thus producing a very narrow bandpass filter in effect) are the culprits for the cyan instead of pure white.

    If you still have your m4/3rds to m adapter, perhaps you would have tried your Leica m lenses...

    FWIW, with my G1 (sans AA IR UV cut filter) I can see the foliage with IR effects when using old manual lenses and even without any IR filters on the lens (recall what you showed with your Mamiya back without its IR cut filter). Sadly, I can't record any images. My new conversion has been mighty slow and deliberate. Finding the glass of right thickness and dimensions being the major stumbling block.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Hi


    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    As of right now, I am stymied... &
    if you wish to send me a RAW file I can have a fiddle with it here using DCRAW

    or you can fiddle with dcraw yourself :-)

    you could send it by something such as mailbigfile and PM me for my email details

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Jack, I too was aware of your IR experience. I was just trying to show that I only used a simple workflow with the G1 IR. My foliage and grass was not green right out of the G1, it showed the IR effect.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    I suspect the issue is as Vivek points out -- narrow bandpass effect -- which would explain the TV remote's IR beam looking cyan instead of white or hot pink. I am going to order some various strengths of IR filters and play around some more.

    My whole reason for converting the GF1 was to have a small but relatively high-quality IR camera with a decent zoom that didn't hot spot and still offered AF! My "IMO" bottom line is that if 4/3rds lenses and or sensor systems cut this much IR, then the cameras do NOT make good candidates for conversion.
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Jack,
    I have the Oly 14-42 zoom which you can try on the GF1 to see what happens with that lens.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Worth a try, but it sounds like it may be with all 4/3rds lenses... I do still have all my adapters, just don't have any old glass to mount to it except my Leica spotting scope
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    Worth a try, but it sounds like it may be with all 4/3rds lenses... I do still have all my adapters, just don't have any old glass to mount to it except my Leica spotting scope
    I wonder why there would be such a dramatic difference in performance between the G1 IR (see Cindy's images with the Precision IR converted G1 with kit lens) and GF1 IR with same lens.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    It may be because they changed the bayer matrix in the GF1 so I have more visible light getting through mine than she did hers -- I don't really know. I ordered a couple longer band pass filters and will report back on my findings.
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Once you've done this conversion I know you can't go back but can they further modify to eliminate the color and go to the full iR?

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by TEBnewyork View Post
    Once you've done this conversion I know you can't go back but can they further modify to eliminate the color and go to the full iR?
    Sure, they can replace with a stronger IR cut filter, or possibly even add a clear glass for a full-spectrum conversion. However since I did the most visible IR conversion, adding stronger over the lens pass filters will generate the same effect -- or in other words give me the widest possible range of IR options just by adding filters. Since this camera uses live view, unlike with SLR viewing I will still be able to compose via the LCD and focus adjustment should remain relatively close.
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    Re: GF1 IR

    I'll be anxious to see what you end up with. If I was going to convert an m4/3rds in the future, it would likely be the GF1. I had it in mind when I bought it as my 10D is a bit long in the tooth with only 6 MP--and big/heavy (about the same as 5D).

    I had tried the G1/14-45 with the Hoya R72--you know with long shutter time, but if I want IR, I know its certainly possible without conversion (though a pain LOL).


    and same in false color



    Diane
    Last edited by Diane B; 11th January 2010 at 16:05.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    That is more like it, especially the B&W, and more what I was looking for . But even with the R72 the grass below the bench still seems a bit green on false color, but the trees in the background are the more normal light cyan and pink, which is good . I get my filters on Wednesday, so hopefully will have some feedback later that day.
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Diane,

    Your B&W ir photo is beautiful.

    Howard

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    That is more like it, especially the B&W, and more what I was looking for . But even with the R72 the grass below the bench still seems a bit green on false color, but the trees in the background are the more normal light cyan and pink, which is good . I get my filters on Wednesday, so hopefully will have some feedback later that day.
    Jack - Did you get any better luck with the new filter(s)?

    Don
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Libby View Post
    Jack - Did you get any better luck with the new filter(s)?

    Don
    Yes, I did get to experiment some late yesterday and the results were mixed.

    On the upside, with both the 093 and OR72 I can set an in-camera WB that is actually neutral on greens or whatever I point it at. I get a true monochrome, high-contrast result with the 093. I get closer to a normal IR result with the OR72, where sunlit greens render as whitish-cyan to tinged with pink.

    On the downside, the OR72 shots still have a significant amount of green present. They also show a BUNCH of color noise in the shadows that gets so accentuated on the R<>B channel swap, they are virtually unusable for false-color. The 093 monochrome is quite nice, but it costs 5-stops when placed over the GF1 zoom... FWIW, the OR72 filter costs 2 stops.

    My current thinking is:

    1) Vivek is correct in that the 4/3rds lenses trim low-frequency IR effectively, so only shorter wave IR is getting through, and then only partially. This is why the 093 loses so much exposure.

    2) I believe that for whatever reason, the GF1 sensor is somehow having the G channel excited by that short-wave IR that does get through, which renders Green instead of dominating Red. That would likely explain why my in-camera WB with just the 665 conversion cannot get neutral and renders as almost 100% green as well.

    UNFORTUNATELY, what I wanted was a smaller IR camera solution with both AUTOFOCUS and a mid ZOOM capability, and I cannot get it with the GF1. Bottom line is I think it's going to be a great conversion for somebody willing to mount older 3rd party glass and go full manual focus. At least the GF1 has the built-in manual focus magnification that works superbly well. But because I cannot get my small, AF zoom IR camera, I suspect I will be selling this body at a significant loss...
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    But because I cannot get my small, AF zoom IR camera, I suspect I will be selling this body at a significant loss...
    That just sucks!

    Have you communicated your findings with Precision? Maybe they would take it....

    Just bad news all around as I know what you were after.
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Libby View Post
    That just sucks!

    Have you communicated your findings with Precision? Maybe they would take it....

    Just bad news all around as I know what you were after.
    Don,

    First off, Precision has been SUPER to deal with! No way I fault them for this. In fact, they are so good to deal with I won't hesitate to send off a Canon to convert -- the only question is do I do a 5D1 or spring for a 5D2 (Note this is the Precision Camera Repair in Enfield, CT: http://www.precisioncamera.com/infra...-services.html, and not Precision Camera in Austin, TX that can come up on Google.)

    There was a bit of risk and I knew that going in. My GF1 was the first one they converted, and while we all assumed the sensor was the same as the G1, it appears it isn't -- or at least the logic tied to the sensor is different. Anyway, the conversion is still valid and works perfectly with non-4/3rds lenses, and even the kit lens will AF properly, albeit not quite hitting infinity at the wide end. In fact false-color works with the kit lens, just not in the contemporary fashion we are used to seeing. It has more green for sure, but with a change in the RAW WB to make the base file more red -- like set WB to 3500/-50 in the raw converter. I can then go to CS where I do the R<>B channel swap, an auto-levels, and get a false-color effect or add a B&W adjustment layer and use their Green Filter default and get high-contrast, dark sky white clouds B&W.
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Totally agree with you comments/sentiments of Precision Camera. They are the people I sent the 1DsII to for the conversion and they are simply top gun. They answered all my questions and concerns pre-conversion as well as my stupid mistakes post-conversion. I very highly recommend doing conversions with them.

    My thoughts were more directed towards them being informed as to the findings of the GF1 so they might be able to help future customers. I feel from my dealings with them that they would appreciate the feedback.

    Looks like we're both ground-breakers as my 1DsII was their first conversion as well.

    The 5D series sounds like a good idea other than the weather sealing and for that I'd go for either 1Ds or 1DsII. Just my 2¢ worth.

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    Re: GF1 IR

    Update: I spoke to Precision and they want to spend some more time with it. It was their first GF1 conversion and as suspected, they simply assumed it would be the same as a G1 conversion -- and obviously it isn't. They have a few ideas and are going to explore them. Bottom line is they can return the camera to normal visible light easily, so the worst case scenario is the GF1 is not a good candidate for IR conversion. On the plus side, if they can figure out how to make it work with the kit lens, it may become an very popular conversion --- personally, I'm hoping they can solve it!

    Stay tuned,
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    That's what I call working with your customers!

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    Re: GF1 IR

    I used the procedure described in the link below to generate a camera profile for my IR converted (715nm) Canon 350D. Just a matter of shooting a ColorChecker chart, converting the raw file to dng, and then using the Adobe dng editor to correct white balance and generate the profile for use in LR and/or CS4 with ACR.

    http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php...or#tutorial_ir

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    Re: GF1 IR

    FOr thread posterity, please see part 2 here: http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showth...ghlight=gf1+IR
    Jack
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    Re: GF1 IR

    Jack,

    Just weighing in here to get my feet wet on the GetDpi forum:
    I appreciate all the documentation of your experience in converting your GF1 to IR w. Precision Camera. Your detailed reports help immensely as I am now considering the 715nm for my own Panasonic G1 based on your writing.

    Now, to start subscribing to my favorite threads!

    Marty
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