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CZJ Tevidon versus Fujinon CCTV

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eugenecctan

Guest
For mine, I had to remove the rear retaining ring to get it to seat in the adapter for infinity focus. Since the retaining ring holds the aperture ring on the lens, I replaced the wide retaining ring with a narrower plastic ring that I cemented on the edge of the metal c-mount. This holds the aperture ring, but allows it to turn smoothly.
Cutting the plastic ring (I did it out of an old plastic film cannister) isn't critical since the metal c-mount provides the rim that bottoms out on the adapter. For a fancier set-up, a metal ring with set screws and a teflon or nylon washer would allow the same thing.

IMPRESSIVE!! May I know how did you remove the rear retaining ring?
 
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eugenecctan

Guest
I am very impress with Fujion CF25B, it gives me full coverage with no vignetting problem. I am still working hard now to modify the lens so that it can focus infinity.
 

RichA

New member
IMPRESSIVE!!! How did you remove the rear retaining ring?
It's actually just a couple of set-screws. Unlike this older Pentax Cosmicar 12.5mm f1.9 which needs no mods to fit. I found this one attached to an old vidicon CCTV camera hanging (no longer working) in a store and I asked the owner if I could buy it.

 
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eugenecctan

Guest
IMPRESSIVE!!! How did you remove the rear retaining ring?
It's actually just a couple of set-screws. Unlike this older Pentax Cosmicar 12.5mm f1.9 which needs no mods to fit. I found this one attached to an old vidicon CCTV camera hanging (no longer working) in a store and I asked the owner if I could buy it.

May I know what size/ what kind of screwdriver do I need? and where can I get it? I will try to get it from Walmart/Home depot tonight. Appreciate if I can have some clear direction to speed up the modification process.

<<I replaced the wide retaining ring with a narrower plastic ring>>
How did you manage to find a suitable plastic ring? Envy.. :)
 
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eugenecctan

Guest
Fujion lens Testing, Currently I am only manage to get it on focus within 1 meter distance. :cry:
 

turbines

New member
I'm not sure this applies but FWIW my Fujinon 35mm would not focus to infinity when first attached to the metabones adapter. I had loosen the 3 small screws on the barrel and readjust. It was a trail and error process until I got it right. After the first try the lens actual focused beyond infinity. It took several trials to get it right.
 

RichA

New member
I'm not sure this applies but FWIW my Fujinon 35mm would not focus to infinity when first attached to the metabones adapter. I had loosen the 3 small screws on the barrel and readjust. It was a trail and error process until I got it right. After the first try the lens actual focused beyond infinity. It took several trials to get it right.
Yes, it's a bit of a pain when it goes past infinity. Some very long lenses do that, to accomodate the barrel length change with temperature that can effect focus.
 

RichA

New member
May I know what size/ what kind of screwdriver do I need? and where can I get it? I will try to get it from Walmart/Home depot tonight. Appreciate if I can have some clear direction to speed up the modification process.

<<I replaced the wide retaining ring with a narrower plastic ring>>
How did you manage to find a suitable plastic ring? Envy.. :)
Flat jeweller's screw-driver with a blade about 0.5mm wide. You can buy sets of these things for about $5.00. You loosen the retaining ring screws that are on the sides of the rear ring. The ring then just lifts off. Make sure the lens is lens side down. You then need to have a narrow (narrower than the width of the depression in the adapter, about 36mm, no wider. I used the open end of a black plastic film can because it just matched the diameter of the ring below the threads of the c-mount on the lens. I cut the end of the film cannister off just to the height of the rim on the lens, just below the threaded c-mount. Then I glued it in-place but I was careful to only apply adhesive to the wall of the rim on the lens below the threaded mount. The reason for this is that you want the aperture ring of the lens to be snug against the plastic of the film cannister, but not to bind it and not to be glued to it because the aperture ring still has to turn. If you cut the plastic ring to just the height of the lip of the lens mount rim (Just below the threads, see the other image of the lens in this thread) then when you attach the adapter to the lens, it will just touch it, forming a good mate. If you cut the thickness just right so there is some minor compression between it and the adapter, you don't even need to glue it because the adapter becomes the retainer. I leave the adapter on that lens (you can buy them for about $9.00 now) and if I need to use an adapter for another c-mount lens, I use a different adapter. Having said this, if someone can machine you a thick aluminum ring with set-screws in it, you can use thin piece of teflon cut into a washer between the aluminum ring and the aperture ring and it will provide a very nice, smooth fit.
 
E

eugenecctan

Guest
Flat jeweller's screw-driver with a blade about 0.5mm wide. You can buy sets of these things for about $5.00. You loosen the retaining ring screws that are on the sides of the rear ring. The ring then just lifts off. Make sure the lens is lens side down. You then need to have a narrow (narrower than the width of the depression in the adapter, about 36mm, no wider. I used the open end of a black plastic film can because it just matched the diameter of the ring below the threads of the c-mount on the lens. I cut the end of the film cannister off just to the height of the rim on the lens, just below the threaded c-mount. Then I glued it in-place but I was careful to only apply adhesive to the wall of the rim on the lens below the threaded mount. The reason for this is that you want the aperture ring of the lens to be snug against the plastic of the film cannister, but not to bind it and not to be glued to it because the aperture ring still has to turn. If you cut the plastic ring to just the height of the lip of the lens mount rim (Just below the threads, see the other image of the lens in this thread) then when you attach the adapter to the lens, it will just touch it, forming a good mate. If you cut the thickness just right so there is some minor compression between it and the adapter, you don't even need to glue it because the adapter becomes the retainer. I leave the adapter on that lens (you can buy them for about $9.00 now) and if I need to use an adapter for another c-mount lens, I use a different adapter. Having said this, if someone can machine you a thick aluminum ring with set-screws in it, you can use thin piece of teflon cut into a washer between the aluminum ring and the aperture ring and it will provide a very nice, smooth fit.
Thanks a lot for the priceless information, can you please attach here with the photo for the bottom of the lens after connected to c-mount adapter? I want to know how deep the lens have to screw in the adapter to focus infinity and without damaging camera sensor.
 

RichA

New member
Thanks a lot for the priceless information, can you please attach here with the photo for the bottom of the lens after connected to c-mount adapter? I want to know how deep the lens have to screw in the adapter to focus infinity and without damaging camera sensor.
The lens has to bottom out in the adapter to reach infinity focus. All these c-mount lenses have the same focusing distance so they all must seat in the adapter properly. There is a rim on the lens, which meets the top of the threaded part. That rim must sit in the bottom of the adapter. If it is above the bottom part of the adapter because you can't screw the lens all the way into the adapter, because the back of the lens is too wide, it will not reach infinity focus.
No lens part is likely to reach the sensor, it is much deeper in the camera than the bottom of any lens will likely reach.
 

paparazzi666

New member
Looking at the close edge of the table, the CZJ shows more barrel distortion. The CZJ bokeh also looks smoother to me (disregarding the OOF highlights).
I am really glad I got the fujinon lens. I now have the Pentax 25mm f1.4 but the fujinon I feel is slightly better. I also have the nokton 25mm 0.95 but when I want something tiny then the fujinon will be the goto lens. You lose one stop but its pretty sharp wide open so you can use it at f1.4 no worries provided subjects are in the center sweet spot.
 
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