Reliable flash for m4/3rds (manual focus lenses)

[CPWarner]

I use an el cheapo Cactus V4 transmitter/receiver to fire flash units with my L1 and E-1 bodies. It unfortunately causes significant interference and image degradation with the G1 body (as well as with the Canon 5DII and some other cameras) so I can't use it with that. I'm planning to expand my lighting equipment with a set of the Impact transmitter/receivers that B&H Photo sells ... they are known to work with the G1 body well with no interference and are reasonably priced. A friend used Pocket Wizard units and another brand (name I forget) with his G1 and Nikon D200, they work well too. The PWs are somewhat pricey.

The slaved flash units I use run a gamut from old, cheap junk to the Olympus FL50 (of course, in manual output mode). They'd work fine with the Canon flash units too. BUT, I've found the lesser model Canon flash units (like the EX420 (?) I had) really only work best triggered by Canon cameras and control units ... the 420 had no manual adjustability at all when I tried to use it as a slaved flash: it always fires at full, unmetered output, which meant it was mostly useless to me.

If your Canon flash units have output power adjustability in manual mode, then they should work fine.

A good kit of three to four Vivitar 285HV flash units and RF receivers coupled with one transmitter on camera, along with a couple of stands and clamps to hold them, and some light modifiers, constitutes a great lighting kit suitable for professional work at a very reasonable price.

I have two Canon 580ex's (well, one is my wife's but she lets me use it ), so I have manual controls. I will look into the Impact transmitters that you mentioned. I have seen a couple of these, but did not realize there were interference issues. Thanks for that input!

You might look at the radiopopper JrX. They are really close in price to the Impact ones from B&H and have a lot of nice controls, such as three biasing knobs for manual power control for three groups.

 

[photoSmart42]

A good kit of three to four Vivitar 285HV flash units and RF receivers coupled with one transmitter on camera, along with a couple of stands and clamps to hold them, and some light modifiers, constitutes a great lighting kit suitable for professional work at a very reasonable price.

That's pretty much my setup as well. I use PT-04 trigger/remotes I got cheaply off eBay (http://stores.ebay.com/lilyrst), and I have to say I haven't seen any degradation in my images from interference when I've used them. I might do some additional testing to see if I can find something wrong with the units I have, but so far so good. Works fine with my 285HV.

 

[Godfrey]

I would disagree with that. ...

Why would you "disagree" with my statement? Is it incorrect? Do you have any evidence to support your "disagreement"?

Doesn't seem to be as I look at my Pentax K10D, Nikon D200, and Olympus E-1 workshop manuals. Wish I could get the ones for the Panasonic L1 and G1, but they don't seem to be available.

 

[Godfrey]

I have two Canon 580ex's (well, one is my wife's but she lets me use it ), so I have manual controls. I will look into the Impact transmitters that you mentioned. I have seen a couple of these, but did not realize there were interference issues. Thanks for that input!

You might look at the radiopopper JrX. They are really close in price to the Impact ones from B&H and have a lot of nice controls, such as three biasing knobs for manual power control for three groups.

Radiopopper JrX are sold under the Elinchrome name in the USA, I believe. Those controls only work with dedicated flash units (probably Canon and Nikon only as well), certainly not with the non-dedicated flash units I use.

 

[Tonygamble]

If you look to the end of this thread I started 'elsewhere' you'll see a recommendation for the Metz 28.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1025&thread=35059886

I'm going to get one early next week as it seems to be a good answer to my needs. Looking at the manual it appears that Metz have gone into the problems of pre-flash and come up with a fairly sophisticated solution. And also a quick way of dealing with over and under exposure. Finally it is designed with the intention of fitting easily on to a small camera.

It's own internal auto exposure will never be as good as TTL - but in my experience even TTL can get it wrong sometimes but usually the shot is either repeatable or recoverable.

I'll report back when I have given it a try.

Tony

 

[Vivek]

Why would you "disagree" with my statement? Is it incorrect? Do you have any evidence to support your "disagreement"?

Doesn't seem to be as I look at my Pentax K10D, Nikon D200, and Olympus E-1 workshop manuals. Wish I could get the ones for the Panasonic L1 and G1, but they don't seem to be available.

You were the one who made a counter claim so the onus is on you to show any support instead of quoting some manuals.

If you look at any Nikon line cam specifications, for example, the sensor for metering is larger and gets more and more sophisticated when the price of the cam goes up.

In contrast, what we are dealing with, when it comes to CDAF/Live view cams is the availability of of almost an entire sensor (in color) and metering of the actual images seen by it.

In Nikon and others (using old fashioned, separate metering)where a separate light metering sensor is used, all sorts of information related to the lens are needed which in combination with the light registered (by the metering element) is put through a standard measure to get the camera value.

It is possible that high end DSLRs use more processing space and power for metering the the m4/3rds because they may find that more important.

 

[Godfrey]

You were the one who made a counter claim so the onus is on you to show any support instead of quoting some manuals.

There's nothing more definitive than the manufacturers' workshop manuals when it comes to what parts there are in the camera, Vivek. But it's a waste of my time arguing with you. You asked a question, I provided an answer.

Believe whatever you want to believe.

 

[Rich M]

If you look to the end of this thread I started 'elsewhere' you'll see a recommendation for the Metz 28.

Tony

Tony-

I use the Metz 28 CS-2 extensively with my GF-1.....it's a great little slave flash. However, it needs the popup to trigger it, so it does not work on my E-P2, nor does it work with legacy MF lenses (which Vivek was originally inquiring about).

I am sure you will enjoy yours when you get it.

R

 

[Vivek]

Godfrey, Appreciate your attempt. Thanks!

Belief and all the chatting is one thing but the reality and actual usefulness is another.

FWIW, and for only reasons that Pana would (perhaps they do not know either)know, the system TTL flash (pop-up or others) work like a charm for IR (on a modified G1) under every situation.

 

[Tonygamble]

I said I'd report back on the receipt of my Metz 28.

I know it is not what the OP is looking for but it does the job I had and it is exceptionally neat when mounted alongside a G1.

Tony