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E-5 Samples?

V

Vivek

Guest
I would be most interested to see if anyone can successfully use the E-5 for star trail captures.

Panasonic's NMOS sensors are horrible with random fixed "star bursts" when used for low light long (even 1s) exposures.

(In comparison, for example, Sony's current CMOS sensors do spectacularly well)
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
The Sony NEX sensor might be quieter, but to call the Panasonic sensor "horrible" is a bit of hyperbole.

Two Panasonic G1 exposures, captured in raw and processed in Lightroom 2.7 at the defaults. Clipped to 1:1 and exported as JPEG to that size. NR turned off, no noise reduction filtering in LR enabled.

ISO 100 @ 256 seconds:


ISO 800 @ 256 seconds:


ISO 800 does get a bit noisy, but ISO 100-200 is quite useable for up to 4 minute exposures, the maximum that untimed exposures can be made. I expect the E-5 to be a bit quieter, but obviously cannot compare it with anything else as yet.

That's the limitation on star trails with the G1 ... how long an untimed, Bulb exposure can run. I haven't seen a spec on the E-5's maximum untimed exposure yet.
 
V

Vivek

Guest
2AM nightsky (albeit a city sky). It was near black to the naked eye (except the stars).


NEX-5, 16/2.8 f/5.6, 13s, ISO800 by Vivek Iyer, on Flickr

Since the E-5 is the "flagship" of the Olympus line, it will not do worse than this NEX5 showing, would it?

[Every single bright spot in the frame was accounted for a real star in the sky and not an artifact from the sensor shortcoming like the Panasonic NMOS sensors]
 

kwalsh

New member
The Sony NEX sensor might be quieter, but to call the Panasonic sensor "horrible" is a bit of hyperbole.
I think he meant this in regards to astrophotography. The types of non-Gaussian noise present in an imager can really have an awful impact when you are trying to image point sources in a dark field. For example, in your binder photo at ISO100 there are a number of very bright noise pixels that are barely noticeable at all for that subject but would be very objectionable in a star field or star trail photo.

I don't do very much of this kind of photography, but what he's saying does match my limited experience with my G1 and older Canon. The character of the G1 noise seems particularly bad for astrophotography. That said I haven't bothered to see if dark frame techniques to remove hot pixels help or not or whether the positions are random from shot to shot.

Ken
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
I think he meant this in regards to astrophotography. The types of non-Gaussian noise present in an imager can really have an awful impact when you are trying to image point sources in a dark field. For example, in your binder photo at ISO100 there are a number of very bright noise pixels that are barely noticeable at all for that subject but would be very objectionable in a star field or star trail photo.

I don't do very much of this kind of photography, but what he's saying does match my limited experience with my G1 and older Canon. The character of the G1 noise seems particularly bad for astrophotography. That said I haven't bothered to see if dark frame techniques to remove hot pixels help or not or whether the positions are random from shot to shot.

Ken
The hot pixels at ISO 100 would have been completely removed with the NR enabled with little if any loss of detail. ISO 800 ... never done it so don't know. I don't do any of this kind of star trail photography.

The NEX shot does look nice and clean. For those who like to do this sort of stuff, some cameras are simply better than others. Can't say anything about the E-5 in this regard until you have one to test, however.
 
V

Vivek

Guest
That said I haven't bothered to see if dark frame techniques to remove hot pixels help or not or whether the positions are random from shot to shot.

Ken
Dark frame subtraction will not help as these pop up randomly, varying from shot to shot.

They are NOT "hot pixels".

It is a serious and real flaw with the sensor unit itself.

(Same behavior is exhibited by the E-410, again a Panasonic NMOS sensor)

Some 100% crop samples from different shots and different sensor areas.


G1, ISO 400, 0.7s 100%crop. by Vivek Iyer, on Flickr


Panasonic G1, 5s by Vivek Iyer, on Flickr
 
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photoSmart42

New member
Dark frame subtraction will not help as these pop up randomly, varying from shot to shot.

They are NOT "hot pixels".

It is a serious and real flaw with the sensor unit itself.

(Same behavior is exhibited by the E-410, again a Panasonic NMOS sensor)
I took some long exposure shots with my lens cap on with my GH1 to see these artifacts, and I don't see anything. Am I doing the test wrong? RAW with Blacks on default, Recovery and Fill Light at 100%, ISO 100. I ran tests like this all the way from 1-sec to the max 256 seconds doubling the time for every test, and they were all perfectly black.

60-second exposure:


256-second exposure:
 

Winkel

New member
Here's an EPL1 image under a very dark sky. Noise reduction was used and required as it removed the "hot pixels" previously discussed. It's a safe assumption that the sensor modifications in the E-5 will improve upon the relatively good EPL1 sensor.

Jim

Olympus EPL1, ISO 500, 20mm @ f2, 10 secs.
 

Jonas

Active member
Please scroll down to the end of the linked site.
http://photofan.jp/camera/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7735&forum=2&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&start=20

As I see it, the improvement of the E-5's IQ is truly impressive. So, it most definitely will be my next camera.
What is it we are looking at in that sample? Are the images taken in raw format and then processed equally or are we looking at different levels of in-camera JPGs with some noise reduction applied?

/Jonas
 

RichA

New member
I would be most interested to see if anyone can successfully use the E-5 for star trail captures.

Panasonic's NMOS sensors are horrible with random fixed "star bursts" when used for low light long (even 1s) exposures.

(In comparison, for example, Sony's current CMOS sensors do spectacularly well)
The G1 is terrible for night shots. The moment you raise the illumination levels, you see graphic noise and banding. So, if you do do night shots, make sure the exposure is exactly what you need and you don't need to push it.
 
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