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What's the story so far? OMD-EM5

Knorp

Well-known member
Hi there Jono,

I've not had one yet - but it seems to me that pretty much all cameras do it at some time or another - at least, most of the one's I've had do.
M's are notorious but my K5 is fine afaik.
As a matter of fact it happened again today ... :(

Were you doing anything unexpected?
Nothing that I was aware off, just tried to press the shutter button.

I guess taking the battery out is more of a bother if you've got the grip on.
Au contraire, the battery is in the grip so accesing it is a piece of cake.

All the best.
 

Knorp

Well-known member
Hi there Jono,

I've not had one yet - but it seems to me that pretty much all cameras do it at some time or another - at least, most of the one's I've had do.
M's are notorious but my K5 is fine afaik.
As a matter of fact it happened again today ... :(

Were you doing anything unexpected?
Nothing that I was aware off, just tried to press the shutter button.

I guess taking the battery out is more of a bother if you've got the grip on.
Au contraire, the (one) battery is in the grip so accesing it is a piece of cake.

All the best.
 

sangio

New member
Were you doing anything unexpected?

I guess taking the battery out is more of a bother if you've got the grip on.
There are a lot of comments about this on various fora; but I'm still not clear if it occurs after the camera goes into sleep mode, or power down mode, or maybe both?

A number of people on the other sites have commented that it's more common with the Panasonic 20mm, but it seems to occur with other lenses as well.

I'm sure a firmware update will fix it.

Regards
Santo
 

Knorp

Well-known member
A number of people on the other sites have commented that it's more common with the Panasonic 20mm, but it seems to occur with other lenses as well.
In my case it was with the Panasonic 14-140 (twice).
Could it really be the lens ?

All the best.
 

sangio

New member
In my case it was with the Panasonic 14-140 (twice).
Could it really be the lens ?

All the best.
Was your camera in sleep mode or had it powered down?

I've seen at least one comment where this happened with Olympus m4/3 lenses, so I think Kit was right earlier in this thread; it seems like something odd is happening with the sleep and power down modes.

I have a habit off manually shutting down a camera when I put it back in the bag, and so far no problems, but I've only had it for a week.

On another issue, when I engage the small focus square, I lose both the live histogram and the "blinkies". Has anyone found a way around this?

Regards
Santo
 

kit laughlin

Subscriber Member
I am sure this is an unintended interaction between sleep and power down modes; I intend to investigate today.

Jim's grip arrived this morning too; it's fitted and I will be selling the HLD-6 this week. Jim's grip allows removal of the battery with the grip in place.

cheers all, kl
 

kit laughlin

Subscriber Member
Kieth, that's no doubt 100% accurate, actually; I am a logician by training—unintended consequences of complex relations are 'normal'. So, this internal confusion is very likely the actual problem.

It's a nice gag, too!

More later, kl
 

kit laughlin

Subscriber Member
I had 'Auto Power Off' set to 1h (hour); I have turned this off.

Sleep is set to 5 mins; let's see if by turning Auto Power Off to Off, the problem reduces/goes away.
 
Last edited:

Jeffg53

Member
Probably a dumb question, but I can't find the answer. Can anyone tell me how to move AF off the shutter button as in CF4 on Canon? I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.
 
Probably a dumb question, but I can't find the answer. Can anyone tell me how to move AF off the shutter button as in CF4 on Canon? I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.
At page 93 of the user manual you will find all the possible configurations and how to set the one you prefer.
 

kit laughlin

Subscriber Member
Follow-up: I let the camera on all day, and it woke perfectly from sleep, with the "offending" 20/1.7 mounted.

So: turn the Auto Power Off to "OFF"; problem solved.
 
Yes you can, more or less as in any other camera I have (no Canon anymore), if you wish to have the AF/AL button to lock focus and the shutter release button do nothing, there is a setting provided for that.
 

GaryAyala

Member
Jeff,

In the menu system "gears-A", go to AEL/AFL and select Mode 3. The focus will move to Fn1 button on back. Unfortunately, for the design of my hand the Fn1 button is very difficult to hit while holding the camera up to one's eye. Over time I hope some of the smaller bones in my hand will move so I can accomodate this setting easier.

Gary
 

sangio

New member
Follow-up: I let the camera on all day, and it woke perfectly from sleep, with the "offending" 20/1.7 mounted.

So: turn the Auto Power Off to "OFF"; problem solved.
I tried this with Lumix 14-45 and the 45-200 lenses. The OM-D woke up ok after a 30 minute nap. Also ok with the older 4/3 9-18 and the Pansonic adapter.

Regards
Santo
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Woohoo! I managed another trip to B&H without buying anything! (Maybe three times out of .. oh .. a thousand?)

This time it was to pick up and fondle an OM-D and a Fuji X-Pro1. The Fuji felt exactly like a lighter M9, with a viewfinder just as difficult for a glasses wearer.

But the OM-D. Honestly, if I hadn't read so much positive about the camera, I would have put it down again immediately. "What an over-buttoned piece of junk!" was my first (second, third, and ninth) reaction. It didn't help that someone had messed with the setting in the store, and I had a lot to reset before it behaved like a camera. It also didn't help that the kit lens was zoom by wire. Yech!

On the plus side - the viewfinder is not terrible for glasses, with only the corners obscured - about the same as a 1DsII, and only bettered by the Leica S2 (granted, at a slight increase in price). But then I tilted the LCD up so that it felt like a (mirror image) waist level finder, and that was rather pleasant. Fast AF, as everyone has already observed, and a nice screen. I wonder if you can get the image to reverse on the LCD so it really feels like a 6x8 WLF. :ROTFL:

Anyway, neither camera (on the basis of in-store fondling) is going to replace the M9. And probably not my ancient 1DsII/70-200/2.8IS combo for those things the M9 doesn't do well.

OK, just a pointless rant from a guy who would really LIKE to keep buying the latest thing, but just can't bring himself to do it. :banghead:

Best,

Matt
 

jonoslack

Active member
Anyway, neither camera (on the basis of in-store fondling) is going to replace the M9. And probably not my ancient 1DsII/70-200/2.8IS combo for those things the M9 doesn't do well.

OK, just a pointless rant from a guy who would really LIKE to keep buying the latest thing, but just can't bring himself to do it. :banghead:

Best,

Matt
Hi There Matt.
Certainly no kind of a replacement for the M9 - definitely not . . . . but for the 1DsII/70-200 . . . mine has replaced my A900/A77 and all those nice Zeiss lenses (with scarcely a look back).

It may have a lot of buttons but it really is a camera!
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Jono,

What? You mean I'm going to have to judge a camera by the results? Heresy! :ROTFL:

It is, of course, impossible to tell in-store if you can track moving children and get the desired moment (in focus!) with a decently long lens. My first, and so far only, foray into m4/3 was the EP-1, and the focus on that with the Panasonic 45-200 was just too slow, so I gave up.

What do you use in the 50-100 range? (100-200 equivalent)

Thanks,

Matt
 
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