State of mFT today

[Jorgen Udvang]

Regarding the legacy lens support, why hasn't the m43 camp used focus peaking? I suppose it's not a technical reason, but rather about patent cost or something. Has any m43 exec said anything officially?

I'm torn between buying into m43 and NEX and wish there was a format that combined their best aspects.

Some manager from Panasonic said in connection with the launch of the GH3 that is was a question of programming resources, and that they simply didn't have enough people available before the launch. That might be an excuse though. Maybe the real reason is that they want to sell their own AF lenses rather than making the cameras easier to use with lenses that they won't make a dime on. The situation is somewhat different for Sony, since they can't offer the same wide range of lenses that Panalympus have available.

It is apparently fixable with a firmware update.

 

[jonoslack]

Regarding the legacy lens support, why hasn't the m43 camp used focus peaking? I suppose it's not a technical reason, but rather about patent cost or something. Has any m43 exec said anything officially?

I'm torn between buying into m43 and NEX and wish there was a format that combined their best aspects.

I was torn as well, and tried both. Believe me - for longer focal length lenses and manual focus, the IBIS on the OMD far far outweighs the focus peaking on the NEX as a focus aid - much as I like focus peaking.

 

[Amin]

I was torn as well, and tried both. Believe me - for longer focal length lenses and manual focus, the IBIS on the OMD far far outweighs the focus peaking on the NEX as a focus aid - much as I like focus peaking.

You can use one of the art filters to do focus peaking on the OMD. Here are the steps:

1) Change the mode dial on the E-M5 to "A"

2) Menu > Shooting Menu 1: set the "Picture Mode" to "ART 11 Key Line" (press right and choose Filter II). You may need to repeat this step twice to get the art filter setting to stick.

3) Optional step if you want magnified view during focus peaking: Menu > Shooting Menu 1 > Set "Digital Tele-converter" to "On"

4) Menu > Shooting Menu 1: select "Reset/Myset", then select "Myset1" and choose "Set"

5) Menu > Custom Menu B: select "Button Function", then select "Fn1 Function" and choose "My1"

6) Menu > Shooting Menu 1: set the "Picture Mode" to "Natural" (or whatever you started out with)

7) Menu > Shooting Menu 1 > Set "Digital Tele-converter" back to "Off" if you set it to "On" in Step 3 above

At this point, you'll have the "Key Line" art filter, which acts like a form of focus peaking, assigned to the Fn1 button. You can hold down the button while focusing for a kind of "on demand" focus peaking and then release the button before you shoot so that the art filter doesn't affect the captured image itself.

Quick video showing the steps to configure: Focus Peaking on Olympus OM-D E-M5 - YouTube

 

[k-hawinkler]

Amin,

Awesome.
Does something like that also work in the E-P2?
Thanks.

With best regards, K-H.

 

[Knorp]

Amin, thanks for the heads up :thumbs:
To see where you're autofocus is actually aiming at, the author added this:

one thing I would like to add, if you also switch to MF before setting the myset then the focus peaking works well for AF lenses as well

How cool is that !

All the best.

 

[Brian Mosley]

Thanks Amin, I've tried the keyline filter approach you've described above and there's a bit of a delay when switching it on/off, plus writing the raw file with embedded art filtered jpeg slows down a bit.

I'm finding it quicker to use the magnifier option, attached to Fn2... with stabilisation to assist manual focusing it works really well.

Cheers

Brian

 

[dhsimmonds]

played around with this a bit as I was quite intrigued. Preliminary conclusion is that it doesn't give better AF or MF accuracy than using the standard magnified view when the subject is quite clear. In general both methods have been fine but the old fashioned one has a slight edge so far. However, when the subject is obscured, the light is generally bad, contrast low or image shaking even when stabilised using a telephoto (AF is usually accurate anyway and MF easy if not using a longer telephoto) then the peaking can be most helpful.

I simply change to Art filter 11 on the left dial without altering any other settings, in other words RAW only. The actual image doesn't change at all this way and you simply use the filter for focus peaking. If you need a JPEG chimp then follow one of the varying suggestions on other forums -- can't say I entirely follow all of them....

This was posted on the UK Oly user's forum some time ago

 

[Amin]

Amin,

Awesome.
Does something like that also work in the E-P2?
Thanks.

With best regards, K-H.

Hi K-H, I don't know. If the E-P2 had a firmware update to use the Key Line Art Filter, then it should work.

Amin, thanks for the heads up :thumbs:
To see where you're autofocus is actually aiming at, the author added this:

Nice!

Thanks Amin, I've tried the keyline filter approach you've described above and there's a bit of a delay when switching it on/off, plus writing the raw file with embedded art filtered jpeg slows down a bit.

If you use the method I listed and release the Fn1 button before shooting, you can shoot RAW only without the JPEG (the Art filter is only engaged while the button is held down).

I'm finding it quicker to use the magnifier option, attached to Fn2... with stabilisation to assist manual focusing it works really well.

Good to have options .

played around with this a bit as I was quite intrigued. Preliminary conclusion is that it doesn't give better AF or MF accuracy than using the standard magnified view when the subject is quite clear. In general both methods have been fine but the old fashioned one has a slight edge so far. However, when the subject is obscured, the light is generally bad, contrast low or image shaking even when stabilised using a telephoto (AF is usually accurate anyway and MF easy if not using a longer telephoto) then the peaking can be most helpful.

I pretty much feel the same way.

This was posted on the UK Oly user's forum some time ago

Yes, it was widely covered a while back, but after Jono's post about wanting focus peaking on the E-M5, I thought he and some others may not have seen it back then.

 

[paparazzi666]

I was wondering why nobody has started on the following threads?
- SLR Magic 35mm f1.4
- Olympus Epm2
I just bought the 35/1.4 and will have it soon and also bought an Epm2 and will collect it on Monday.

Since this thread is about the state, then these 2 new items does add a lot to the state of m43 I would think.

They add high performance at affordable prices.

 

[biglouis]

Hi There
It seems you're using the panasonic bodies exclusively - might I suggest that you beg/borrow/steal/rent and OMD - just for a few days - it might solve your problem?

Jono, interesting advice.

Is the Olympus body 100% compatible with all Panasonic lenses? I thought I read somewhere about some features on Panasonic lenses not working as well with Olympus bodies?

LouisB

 

[pophoto]

LouisB: I dunno about 100% compatibility, but I use my PanLeica 25 and 45 most of the time, and sometimes the pancake 20 on my OMD. This is despite having the Oly 12 and 45 which everyone raves about!

 

[cjlacz]

Jono, interesting advice.

Is the Olympus body 100% compatible with all Panasonic lenses? I thought I read somewhere about some features on Panasonic lenses not working as well with Olympus bodies?

LouisB

I''ve got several lenses, but my two most used are the 20mm on one body and the 14mm on another. Both are E-M5s. I haven't had any issues.

On the general state on m43s, I don't think I have anything to say that hasn't been written here already, but to be brief. I picked up my first one in March when they were just released and been shooting it for about 9 months now. I like it more now than when I bought it. Picked up a second body 2-3 months ago. The lenses are small and great, the kit is small and light and results are fantastic. I've sold all my SLR gear now. There isn't another camera on the market now that I'd trade my E-M5 for.

 

[kds315]

If I had to pick 1 camera and two lenses for the rest of my life, this would be it:


DSC_2168 by Amin Sabet, on Flickr

Total weight: 440 grams. Total cost: about $1000.

So are you assuming that your life will be over in just a few days?? ;-) Technology changes that fast currently that I would be rather careful with that kind of (absolute) statement.

 

[Brian Mosley]

I would hate to limit myself to one camera + 2 lenses for the rest of my life. I'm looking forward to some step change improvements in ergonomics, performance and image quality to come.

Kind regards

Brian

 

[k-hawinkler]

You can use one of the art filters to do focus peaking on the OMD. Here are the steps:

1) Change the mode dial on the E-M5 to "A"

2) Menu > Shooting Menu 1: set the "Picture Mode" to "ART 11 Key Line" (press right and choose Filter II). You may need to repeat this step twice to get the art filter setting to stick.

3) Optional step if you want magnified view during focus peaking: Menu > Shooting Menu 1 > Set "Digital Tele-converter" to "On"

4) Menu > Shooting Menu 1: select "Reset/Myset", then select "Myset1" and choose "Set"

5) Menu > Custom Menu B: select "Button Function", then select "Fn1 Function" and choose "My1"

6) Menu > Shooting Menu 1: set the "Picture Mode" to "Natural" (or whatever you started out with)

7) Menu > Shooting Menu 1 > Set "Digital Tele-converter" back to "Off" if you set it to "On" in Step 3 above

At this point, you'll have the "Key Line" art filter, which acts like a form of focus peaking, assigned to the Fn1 button. You can hold down the button while focusing for a kind of "on demand" focus peaking and then release the button before you shoot so that the art filter doesn't affect the captured image itself.

Quick video showing the steps to configure: Focus Peaking on Olympus OM-D E-M5 - YouTube

AMIN,

Again many thanks.
Now that I have my OM-D E-M5, I had no problem setting up my camera according to these instructions.
I have the following questions though:

• Can one also choose the magnification factor? If so, how?
• Can one also choose the peaking color? If so, how?

With best regards, K-H.

 

[henningw]

Right now, m43 hits the sweet spot for me for general SLR-type photography. That's as opposed to rangefinder, which area the Leica M's fulfill for me. Professionally I mostly use Canon, as they have the superb 17 and 24mm TSE lenses.

In prints, the extra quality from the full frame cameras rarely makes a difference over m43 images.

When carrying the cameras, especially with a range of lenses, the difference between m43 and FF is huge, and APSC is unfortunately much closer to FF than m43. The NEX cameras are fine if you can live with one or two lenses of modest focal range, but lose their size advantage as soon as you demand something more.

Depending on where I'm going I carry 2 m43 bodies and the 7-14, 12-35, 35-100 and 100-300 along with maybe the 20 or 25/0.95 all in one Domke 803 bag. A Nikon or Canon FF camera with 2 moderate lenses will also fully fill the bag. Alternatively, I can also use the 7-14, 14-45 and 45-200 with the 12, 20 and 45 providing speed. This also fits in the 803, and provides for somewhat different situations while being lighter.

As has been noted, the biggest downside to m43 cameras is the very poor focus tracking performance. If I need that, I still use an SLR with mirror and prism.

The main thing is that the m43 system allows me to take a very flexible system with me easily, without having to compromise lens selection due to size and weight, and I always take the best pictures with the camera and lens I have with me.

Those days when I go out with only a 35 or 50 for street shooting, the M9 with a Summilux is a much better choice (or possibly an RX1; I haven't yet tried one), but it and I fare poorly when I am on vacation in Africa and I wish to take a frame filling shot of a lion.

The OM-D is now a camera that has reached a certain 'good enough' level. There will be many advances, but for me at present the OM-D with a decent lens has reached a certain Goldilocks stage.

If some company comes up with a multilayer sensor that doesn't have all the negatives of the Foveon sensor but retains the good points, has a decent system behind it and a reasonable price, I might go for it. Hopefully, it will be an m43 format.

Henning

 

[Shashin]

My E-P1 and the camera I replaced it with.

 

[Vivek]

If the rumors about a BSI (back side illuminated) sensor in the "Kodak S1" made by JK imaging products come true, it will certainly shake things up a bit.

I am following that with interest.

 

[Michiel Schierbeek]

As much as I liked the M4/3 system, I did not want to deal with the 2x cropfactor anymore. Just sold the 45/1.8 :scry:
At this stage I am at 1,5 x and I hope it soon to be 1:1, as long I can use MF lenses on it.
(sorry, but it is a hobby of mine to use "old glass")

michiel

 

[kweide]

... and from time to time i think i have to leave the party ....