Tesselator
New member
^^^ Cool!
GH2, Pana 14-45/3.5, 1/60s, f/4.5, ISO640, 19mm (35mm eq:38mm)
.
GH2, Pana 14-45/3.5, 1/60s, f/4.5, ISO640, 19mm (35mm eq:38mm)
.
The GetDPI Photography Forum
Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!
Fun with 4/3rds cameras/ Image Thread
- Thread starter Guy Mancuso
- Start date
Just an irrelevant observation here; those beautiful yellow leaves on the ground are from a Ginkgo tree, an ancient species and one of my favorite fall varieties to photograph.
donbga
Tesselator
New member
Could be. They produce buttloads of ginun (Gea-none) nuts (maybe 1,000 per tree). Which when cooked are awesome with a little salt - and of course hot sake! 
mediumcool
Active member
Been processing old and new pix from the Panasonic G3 with C1 v7. From Sunday at a fund-raiser Greek street festival in an Adelaide suburb.
Nick and his wife selling pots of basil to support the local Greek Orthodox church
Panasonic G3 with 20mm wide open at f1.7
Nick and his wife selling pots of basil to support the local Greek Orthodox church
Panasonic G3 with 20mm wide open at f1.7
Last edited:
mediumcool
Active member
The event designer likes Comic Sans. Groan.
Odd language; thought they were all drinks. Panasonic G3 16:9 with Pentax 35/2.8 via adapter.
Odd language; thought they were all drinks. Panasonic G3 16:9 with Pentax 35/2.8 via adapter.
Craftysnapper
New member
My youngest Granddaughter Scarlett
E-PL3 45mm 1/100sec f2 ISO 640
E-PL3 45mm 1/100sec f2 ISO 640
mediumcool
Active member
Scene on an escalator
This was exposed at iso1250 on my Panasonic G3/20mm, which sensitivity I would not use until the advent of Capture One v7, which handles noise reduction and under-exposure very well indeed.
This was exposed at iso1250 on my Panasonic G3/20mm, which sensitivity I would not use until the advent of Capture One v7, which handles noise reduction and under-exposure very well indeed.
Tesselator
New member
Pixelmator 2.1.1 ?
I was looking for which camera took that Mr. Medium, and while that info wasn't present it did say: "Pixelmator 2.1.1".
So I have to ask... Which camera are you using and what was Pixelmator used for?
I was looking for which camera took that Mr. Medium, and while that info wasn't present it did say: "Pixelmator 2.1.1".
So I have to ask... Which camera are you using and what was Pixelmator used for?
mediumcool
Active member
Panasonic G3/20mm f1.7
I use Pixelmator after exporting from C1 to do final sizing, cloning, and adding a 2-pixel–wide black border. Photoshop rarely gets a look-in these days (BTW, Pixelmator is OSX-only).
HTH
mediumcool
Active member
Pure pleasure and concentration!
G3/20
G3/20
Last edited:
Tesselator
New member
Hey thanks man!Panasonic G3/20mm f1.7
I use Pixelmator after exporting from C1 to do final sizing, cloning, and adding a 2-pixel–wide black border. Photoshop rarely gets a look-in these days (BTW, Pixelmator is OSX-only).
HTH
Yeah I have 1.6.5 installed. I dunno why I don't use it more often. I really dug it when I first installed it... and then I just kinda went back to my usual routine. Maybe I'll give it another look. I've just been with Photoshop for so long now... Ever since Amiga went under - actually a few years prior but just for work...
And just to keep the images going here's two from a couple of hours ago using the Contax Zeiss 85/1.4 Planar on the GH2:
Craftysnapper
New member
The Girl With The Million Dollar Smile
E-30 and 50mm macro 1/800sec @ f2.8 iso 200
E-30 and 50mm macro 1/800sec @ f2.8 iso 200
peterb
Member
Hi everyone!
I've had a G1 since the beginning. But recently I've become a big fan of a stitching technique developed by a NYC-based wedding photographer named Ryan Brenizer. (I've no doubt some of you have heard of the Brenizer "method'.) The technique involves taking a number of stills in manual mode or locked AE/AF on the main subject wide open and then making a composite. I use photoshop elements but there are some terrific stand alone programs like PTGUI and others that will do an even better job. The result is an image that has the shallow DOF of a telephoto with the expanse of a wide angle. Like having a 28mm f0.8 lens!
Ryan and others argue that the best images result when the individual images have been taken with a FF or APS-C lens (ideally 50mm or better for APS-C and 85mm or better for FF with both at least f2 or faster).
I was contemplating getting a larger sensor DSLR (I only have G1 and my other camera is the DP2 M) so I thought I'd try an experiment. I bought the dirt cheap 85mm f1.4 Samyang and an adapter for the G1 (Samyang does not make any 85mm lenses with the mFt mount). On my first time out this is what I was able to do. (Please note the white 'holes' were areas that I simply goofed and did not get shots to cover. Also, in the shot with the accord I made the mistake of making some minor adjustments to the individual OOC shots. As a result you can see some of the individual exposures. The other two don't have that issue. So I apologize.)
My conclusion is..yes. An mFt can do some pretty decent Brenizer type images certainly on a par with those made with a FF or APS-C. I surmise it might actually be better since the individual mFT images have a greater pixel density than images created by FF or APS-C due to the fact that each for every 24 MP FF shot it requires FOUR 12-16 MP mFt shots!
As a result, I think I'll just get the G5 or GH3 and quite possibly the Zuiko 75mm f1.8. mFt seems to work just fine for the Brenizer method. There doesn't appear to be any urgency to get a FF camera to do this.
The effect is most pronounced in the third shot featuring the shrubs. With people shots there's an eerie three dimensionality that is truly a marvel to see. (Note the files for the forum are relatively small. The ACTUAL files are HUGE. Minimally 54 MB Tiffs with the larger panos around 234 Tiffs jpgs.)
Peter
I've had a G1 since the beginning. But recently I've become a big fan of a stitching technique developed by a NYC-based wedding photographer named Ryan Brenizer. (I've no doubt some of you have heard of the Brenizer "method'.) The technique involves taking a number of stills in manual mode or locked AE/AF on the main subject wide open and then making a composite. I use photoshop elements but there are some terrific stand alone programs like PTGUI and others that will do an even better job. The result is an image that has the shallow DOF of a telephoto with the expanse of a wide angle. Like having a 28mm f0.8 lens!
Ryan and others argue that the best images result when the individual images have been taken with a FF or APS-C lens (ideally 50mm or better for APS-C and 85mm or better for FF with both at least f2 or faster).
I was contemplating getting a larger sensor DSLR (I only have G1 and my other camera is the DP2 M) so I thought I'd try an experiment. I bought the dirt cheap 85mm f1.4 Samyang and an adapter for the G1 (Samyang does not make any 85mm lenses with the mFt mount). On my first time out this is what I was able to do. (Please note the white 'holes' were areas that I simply goofed and did not get shots to cover. Also, in the shot with the accord I made the mistake of making some minor adjustments to the individual OOC shots. As a result you can see some of the individual exposures. The other two don't have that issue. So I apologize.)
My conclusion is..yes. An mFt can do some pretty decent Brenizer type images certainly on a par with those made with a FF or APS-C. I surmise it might actually be better since the individual mFT images have a greater pixel density than images created by FF or APS-C due to the fact that each for every 24 MP FF shot it requires FOUR 12-16 MP mFt shots!
As a result, I think I'll just get the G5 or GH3 and quite possibly the Zuiko 75mm f1.8. mFt seems to work just fine for the Brenizer method. There doesn't appear to be any urgency to get a FF camera to do this.
The effect is most pronounced in the third shot featuring the shrubs. With people shots there's an eerie three dimensionality that is truly a marvel to see. (Note the files for the forum are relatively small. The ACTUAL files are HUGE. Minimally 54 MB Tiffs with the larger panos around 234 Tiffs jpgs.)
Peter
Last edited:
mediumcool
Active member
Tree at Castle Plaza
A bit of the tropics in a shopping centre car park in South Australia. G3/20.
A bit of the tropics in a shopping centre car park in South Australia. G3/20.
Tesselator
New member
^^ Someone's making rubber?
Hi Peter,
My shot of the yellow tree above is just that. It's 40 images with the Canon FD 85mm/1.2L set to f/1.2 and stitched together using Autopano Giga 2.6 Here's a shot using 240 images (after cropping) in the same way:
I was pretty much standing right under that tree there. The top images are pointed about 80˚ up off horizontal. oO
My process might be slightly different in a few regards. If the FOV I wanted works out to too many images (more than about 20 or 30 total) I use Adobe Camera RAW to convert and scale them. I always shoot RAW and not all stitchers can read the RAW files.
In ACR the setting to scale the image is actually a function of how ACR demosaics the image in the first place as such:
After that setting is selected I select all images and mess with the sliders as needed. When done I use the "Save Images" feature and save them all off into a JPeg folder properly labeled like:
This effectively adds the post-processing changes to each of the individual files uniformly.
Then just load them into Autopano Giga or whatever pano stitcher you prefer, and press Render:
From there you can either crop it in PS or have the stitcher software automatically crop it for you. And with the ACR scale-type process the result is actually manageable enough (small enough) to process further in PS should you so desire. With the full sized RAW images the slightest edits can take very long to complete! Even on my 8-core MacPro with 16GB or RAM.
BTW you can fill in those white holes with Photoshop's "Spot Healing Brush Tool", "Healing Brush Tool" or "Patch Tool" fairly easily. Depending which you select just set the brush's Size and Hardness parameters, select a source area that looks kinda similar, and you're good to paint. Also as you probably already know the WB setting is often pretty important with these. Just whatever you set it to, don't set it to AWB... so that all the images come in at the same WB. If you forget as I sometimes do, just selecting all images and ACR and then setting a custom WB will usually cure any mismatches.
Panoramas in general are pretty fun! One of the tools I find most helpful - almost indispensable - is a gimbal head! Absolutely perfect tool for the job! I'm using the Beike head which is amazingly under $100 shipped and delivered. Here it is on ebay. and this thing is very very close to the same quality as the $800+ Wimberley head from last year. If you really get into this and wanna splurge there's also a robotic gimbal head ya can get where ya just set a few parameters and it takes all the shots for you. LOL I think it's not all that expensive either - at least compared to the all manual Wimberley.
Hi Peter,
My shot of the yellow tree above is just that. It's 40 images with the Canon FD 85mm/1.2L set to f/1.2 and stitched together using Autopano Giga 2.6 Here's a shot using 240 images (after cropping) in the same way:
I was pretty much standing right under that tree there. The top images are pointed about 80˚ up off horizontal. oO
My process might be slightly different in a few regards. If the FOV I wanted works out to too many images (more than about 20 or 30 total) I use Adobe Camera RAW to convert and scale them. I always shoot RAW and not all stitchers can read the RAW files.
In ACR the setting to scale the image is actually a function of how ACR demosaics the image in the first place as such:
After that setting is selected I select all images and mess with the sliders as needed. When done I use the "Save Images" feature and save them all off into a JPeg folder properly labeled like:
This effectively adds the post-processing changes to each of the individual files uniformly.
Then just load them into Autopano Giga or whatever pano stitcher you prefer, and press Render:
From there you can either crop it in PS or have the stitcher software automatically crop it for you. And with the ACR scale-type process the result is actually manageable enough (small enough) to process further in PS should you so desire. With the full sized RAW images the slightest edits can take very long to complete! Even on my 8-core MacPro with 16GB or RAM.
BTW you can fill in those white holes with Photoshop's "Spot Healing Brush Tool", "Healing Brush Tool" or "Patch Tool" fairly easily. Depending which you select just set the brush's Size and Hardness parameters, select a source area that looks kinda similar, and you're good to paint. Also as you probably already know the WB setting is often pretty important with these. Just whatever you set it to, don't set it to AWB... so that all the images come in at the same WB. If you forget as I sometimes do, just selecting all images and ACR and then setting a custom WB will usually cure any mismatches.
Panoramas in general are pretty fun! One of the tools I find most helpful - almost indispensable - is a gimbal head! Absolutely perfect tool for the job!
I'm using the Beike head which is amazingly under $100 shipped and delivered. Here it is on ebay. and this thing is very very close to the same quality as the $800+ Wimberley head from last year. If you really get into this and wanna splurge there's also a robotic gimbal head ya can get where ya just set a few parameters and it takes all the shots for you. LOL I think it's not all that expensive either - at least compared to the all manual Wimberley.
Last edited:
jonoslack
Active member
But they aren't hermaphrodite . . . so our poor tree (I don't know if it's male or female) produces nothing, as there is no lover within 20 miles.Could be. They produce buttloads of ginun (Gea-none) nuts (maybe 1,000 per tree). Which when cooked are awesome with a little salt - and of course hot sake!
It does, however, produce the lovely yellow leaves in the fall.
