can one make prints from the G1? Looking for a smaller kit and trying to decide on this vs a D90, was thinking bout a 5D2 but concerned about having to deal with MF Zeiss glass for wides etc...sorry for such a post but first time in the 4/3 forum....main uses are travel and landscape...also a plus since I still have some Leica M glass and my old 55 micro Nikor etc..thanks for any responses or if this has been discussed awhile back...
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Just how big...
- Thread starter DonWeston
- Start date
Michiel Schierbeek
Well-known member
No experience with the G1 yet, but with my E-3 (10 million mp in stead of 12)
80 cm x 60 cm was still very good. I have no experience with bigger prints but I with the G1 you can do of course bigger sizes.
I don't know were the borderline exactly is.
I must try soon a bigger sized print with G1.
How big of a prints are you thinking of?
Kind regards, Michiel
80 cm x 60 cm was still very good. I have no experience with bigger prints but I with the G1 you can do of course bigger sizes.
I don't know were the borderline exactly is.
I must try soon a bigger sized print with G1.
How big of a prints are you thinking of?
Kind regards, Michiel
I've printed very nicely an 11 x 17 on 13 x 19 Ilford Gold Silk baryta paper from Lightroom. I printed the same photo from 5D and, without a loupe, I don't think one would be able to tell one from the other from normal viewing distance--or even closer (if you stick your nose right up to it, and I mean RIGHT on top of it--you can see some difference in distant foliage detail but the normal person would not be able to distinguish between the 2 I don't think). They were both printed on Epson 3800 with both capture and output sharpening. These were of a mountain landscape with a great deal of detail. I have been meaning to print larger (13 x 19 and 16 x 20--though I think that might be pushing it) just to try it, but--I did print a 2 over 2 stitched landscape from the G1 at 16 x 20 on the same paper. It was just wonderful--fairly large file with stitching and I think I would do the same for anything I expected to print that large.
Additionally I should say these were RAW captures for both, both exposed well, processed to what I thought was best. I didn't feel the need to go into Photoshop for these--sometimes I do do a roundtrip, but these needed no further processing after LR.
Diane
Additionally I should say these were RAW captures for both, both exposed well, processed to what I thought was best. I didn't feel the need to go into Photoshop for these--sometimes I do do a roundtrip, but these needed no further processing after LR.
Diane
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Diane
I would be interested in your sharpening workflow from LR, I have always goe into Photoshop
Thanks
Phil
I would be interested in your sharpening workflow from LR, I have always goe into Photoshop
Thanks
Phil
scho
Well-known member
I've been printing both G1 and M8 images on canvas and satin cloth at sizes up to 20x30 inches for gallery wraps using a Canon iPF 6100. They look wonderful at normal viewing distances. If you like to pixel peep at high frequency landscape detail then a larger format or stitching is the best solution for really big prints (>20x30).
Terry
New member
What products are you using for the wraps. Can you post some links. Does it make a mess of your printer to switch back and forth between good paper and canvas?
scho
Well-known member
Terry,
I like the Lexjet WR Satin Cloth, Lexjet Sunset Select Gloss Canvas, and BF 12.2 UDM Matte Canvas (available from Booksmart) for gallery wraps. I print from 24 inch rolls and have no problems switching media types. Just routine cleaning to remove paper/coating dust in the printer. The gallery wraps are done using the Hahnemuhle stretcher bars and corner kit system. Very easy and anyone can do one of these in less than 5 minutes with no prior training. Available from Hahnemuhle direct, Lexjet, Shades of Paper, or Booksmart. Here is a link to the Lexjet page for the Hahnemuhle system:
http://www.lexjet.com/lexjet/dept.asp?dept_id=2600&mscssid=9XGSQPMSDKQH8NHQN21X8952FHJXFWVF
BF canvas:
http://www.booksmartstudio.com/stor...nvas-607/prem-wr-matte-canvas-mc12-2-udm-776/
Lexjet WR Satin Cloth:
http://www.lexjet.com/lexjet/produc...SCOB&mscssid=9XGSQPMSDKQH8NHQN21X8952FHJXFWVF
Regards,
Carl
PS - here is a link to the Hahnemuhle site with some movies showing how to make the gallery wraps.
http://hahnemuhledirect.com/galleriewrap.html
I like the Lexjet WR Satin Cloth, Lexjet Sunset Select Gloss Canvas, and BF 12.2 UDM Matte Canvas (available from Booksmart) for gallery wraps. I print from 24 inch rolls and have no problems switching media types. Just routine cleaning to remove paper/coating dust in the printer. The gallery wraps are done using the Hahnemuhle stretcher bars and corner kit system. Very easy and anyone can do one of these in less than 5 minutes with no prior training. Available from Hahnemuhle direct, Lexjet, Shades of Paper, or Booksmart. Here is a link to the Lexjet page for the Hahnemuhle system:
http://www.lexjet.com/lexjet/dept.asp?dept_id=2600&mscssid=9XGSQPMSDKQH8NHQN21X8952FHJXFWVF
BF canvas:
http://www.booksmartstudio.com/stor...nvas-607/prem-wr-matte-canvas-mc12-2-udm-776/
Lexjet WR Satin Cloth:
http://www.lexjet.com/lexjet/produc...SCOB&mscssid=9XGSQPMSDKQH8NHQN21X8952FHJXFWVF
Regards,
Carl
PS - here is a link to the Hahnemuhle site with some movies showing how to make the gallery wraps.
http://hahnemuhledirect.com/galleriewrap.html
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scho
Well-known member
Yes, I buy packs of bars in lengths that I use frequently. If you just want to do an occasional print then Booksmart sells kits for doing one print that have the required bar lengths for various size prints. You do have to make your prints 3 inches larger in each dimension for the standard 1.25 inch bars and 4 inches more for the big pro bars (1.75 inch). The bar sizes are for a finished print. So if I'm making a 20x30 inch gallery wrap with the pro bars then I make my print 24x34 inches in size to allow for the wrap. A finished 16x20 inch gallery wrap with standard bars would be printed at 19x23 inches.
I think I posted this before in another thread, but here is a shot of two 18x24 inch gallery wrap prints made with the Hahnemuhle system:
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Terry
New member
Sorry to hijack this thread
Thanks Carl,
Arrghh, to really do these well you need a large format printer. My 3800 goes 17 wide so 14" would be my largest side (which is really not what I am looking to do). It is surprisingly expensive to get things printed on canvas. I really don't mind doing the wrapping, I just need to find the right printer (as in service - as I don't know that I am up for buying a new printer. Is the glue fro the system messy. All the videos show adhesive strips but then in some places I've seen a glue bottle as part of the "equipment".
Also, your waterfalls etc show up better as big wraps than they sometimes look as a post at 900 pixels on the forum. I think they need more space to be seen big.
Thanks Carl,
Arrghh, to really do these well you need a large format printer. My 3800 goes 17 wide so 14" would be my largest side (which is really not what I am looking to do). It is surprisingly expensive to get things printed on canvas. I really don't mind doing the wrapping, I just need to find the right printer (as in service - as I don't know that I am up for buying a new printer. Is the glue fro the system messy. All the videos show adhesive strips but then in some places I've seen a glue bottle as part of the "equipment".
Also, your waterfalls etc show up better as big wraps than they sometimes look as a post at 900 pixels on the forum. I think they need more space to be seen big.
scho
Well-known member
Terry, I only use the glue (just PVA or Elmer's) for larger canvas prints and just run a bead around the inside edge of the frame before folding up the sides. No mess, quick and easy. Yes, larger format printer is better. I really like the Canon iPF 6100 after suffering with an Epson 4000 for four years. No clogs, uses very little ink, and no maintenance problems. Got mine on sale for about $1500 last year from Shades of Paper.
I have/had used PKS (Photokit Sharpener) for quite a long time in PS. When LR 2.2--or .3 came out with improved print sharpening (based on the PKS technique--Jeff Schewe along with now gone Bruce Frasier, had worked with LR to improve it and its much better).
For most printing I feel pretty comfortable with it. I do capture sharpening in LR first--for anything--and the print/output sharpening will be based on the print size (as PKS), and the paper, etc.
There is no ability in LR to use 'creative' sharpening as a mid step, so if I feel this is needed, I'll do a round trip to PS and use PKS.
I neglected to say I also use color management throughout (though this has no effect on print size, which is what the OP asked).
Diane
Too late to edit and I realized I had not completed this sentence----I found that for almost all printing, LR did a great job--for those few that needed more, I do a round trip to PS and use 'creative' in PKS.
For one pretty good tute on capture sharpening in LR see this
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=1324251
I also like Martin Evening's description of capture and output sharpening (his book is one I like for LR)
http://books.google.com/books?id=3H...8pHtAw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3
Diane
hodad66
Member
An addendum to this old thread.......
This is where I have had canvas / wrap printing done....
http://www.perfectposters.com/ppindex.htm
This is where I have had canvas / wrap printing done....
http://www.perfectposters.com/ppindex.htm
C
ChrisJ
Guest
How about 5ft X 4ft or even larger?
The trick is to force PS to apply the minimum amount of interpolation, if force is the correct word. Here's how I do it
Open PS and got to File>New
In the dialogue box enter the width and height using inches as your units
In the Resolution box select the resolution that gives you the file size (lower right) that is 1Meg per Inch on the longest side, this will be a lot lower than what you think. This formulae of 1 Meg per Inch is assuming your picture is being printed at 300DPI.
Click OK
Go into Bridge and highlight the picture you want to print.
Go to File>Place>In Photoshop
PS will plonk your pic in the centre of the canvas with a transform tool already selected.
Hold down the Shift Key (to maintain Aspect Ratio) and grab a top corner 'Anchor Point' and drag till the picture fills the upper frame. Do the same for the lower half.
This method opens the image as a smart object so if it is a Raw file double clicking the layer icon will re-open the Raw converter. Any filter will be a Smart Filter and can be adjusted such as the High Pass Filter for High Pass Sharpening.
You can move the picture around using the Move Tool (V on the keyboard) to get exactly the framing you want. Ctrl + T will call up the Transform Tool again should you need it. In short everything is editable losslessly at this point.
When your happy Flatten the Layers and save, this is the file you send to your printer and when the interpolation is applied.
Double clicking the Zoom Tool will give you a 100% view which will show you how the printer will lay down the ink.
PS is 'inventing' data of course, this method uses the minimum interpolation required to fill the matrix the printer is laying down. There are obvious limits, but you can definately get commercial prints bigger than the 20" X 16" which is often quoted as the largest 'safe' size.
There are a couple of caveats, first you need to shoot Raw, second the image should be good 'in camera' no blown out highlights etc.. Any fault in the picture will. literally, be magnified.
Chris
The trick is to force PS to apply the minimum amount of interpolation, if force is the correct word. Here's how I do it
Open PS and got to File>New
In the dialogue box enter the width and height using inches as your units
In the Resolution box select the resolution that gives you the file size (lower right) that is 1Meg per Inch on the longest side, this will be a lot lower than what you think. This formulae of 1 Meg per Inch is assuming your picture is being printed at 300DPI.
Click OK
Go into Bridge and highlight the picture you want to print.
Go to File>Place>In Photoshop
PS will plonk your pic in the centre of the canvas with a transform tool already selected.
Hold down the Shift Key (to maintain Aspect Ratio) and grab a top corner 'Anchor Point' and drag till the picture fills the upper frame. Do the same for the lower half.
This method opens the image as a smart object so if it is a Raw file double clicking the layer icon will re-open the Raw converter. Any filter will be a Smart Filter and can be adjusted such as the High Pass Filter for High Pass Sharpening.
You can move the picture around using the Move Tool (V on the keyboard) to get exactly the framing you want. Ctrl + T will call up the Transform Tool again should you need it. In short everything is editable losslessly at this point.
When your happy Flatten the Layers and save, this is the file you send to your printer and when the interpolation is applied.
Double clicking the Zoom Tool will give you a 100% view which will show you how the printer will lay down the ink.
PS is 'inventing' data of course, this method uses the minimum interpolation required to fill the matrix the printer is laying down. There are obvious limits, but you can definately get commercial prints bigger than the 20" X 16" which is often quoted as the largest 'safe' size.
There are a couple of caveats, first you need to shoot Raw, second the image should be good 'in camera' no blown out highlights etc.. Any fault in the picture will. literally, be magnified.
Chris