E-P1 is out....

[nostatic]

You could order the CV Nokton 50mm f/1.1 for $1100 or do what I did: I bought a 50mm f/1.4 OM Zuiko on Ebay for $70.

Then I'm stuck with MF. I've done that in the past, and have found that my "style" (for what it's worth) is heavily dependent on AF. It is just the way that I shoot. I often am somewhat haphazard in framing and hold at odd angles where I can't really see detail on the display. Trying to do MF isn't really an option. I'm "guessing" at a lot of things, and having to add focus to the guess drops my "good" image percentage.

I did love the images I got out of my 58/1.4 CV though...but I just rarely used it. I'm a dangerous combination of being lazy and in a hurry

 

[Terry]

Then I'm stuck with MF. I've done that in the past, and have found that my "style" (for what it's worth) is heavily dependent on AF. It is just the way that I shoot. I often am somewhat haphazard in framing and hold at odd angles where I can't really see detail on the display. Trying to do MF isn't really an option. I'm "guessing" at a lot of things, and having to add focus to the guess drops my "good" image percentage.

I did love the images I got out of my 58/1.4 CV though...but I just rarely used it. I'm a dangerous combination of being lazy and in a hurry

Yes, you lose a stop from f2 to f2.8 you get it back in ISO performance.

 

[nostatic]

Yes, you lose a stop from f2 to f2.8 you get it back in ISO performance.

Hmm, good point. While I find 800 fine on the DLux4, 1600 becomes more of a "style choice". I suppose with sensors, size matters.

No wait, it isn't the size but how you use it.

 

[lcubed]

robert,

did you find out if focus confirmation on legacy lenses is in the cards for the ep1??

 

[monza]

Manual focus works the same way as on the G1...

 

[lcubed]

so, no lights or other indicators like on the nikons when focussed??

 

[Ranger 9]

so, no lights or other indicators like on the nikons when focussed??

Can't be done on a contrast-detect AF system. Nikon (and other) DSLRs have a phase-detect system, which can examine the image at a given moment and tell whether it's in focus or out of focus (and if out, by how far and in what direction.)

Contrast-detect can only monitor the contrast of the image as the camera trolls through its focusing range. It compares current to previous readings to tell whether contrast is increasing or decreasing, then stops the focusing movement when contrast stops going up and starts going down again.

I suppose this could be implemented manually via some kind of "nulling" indicator, such as a virtual needle that would indicate contrast level, or a two-color LED that would show whether contrast is increasing or decreasing as you turn the focus ring. But to casual users, that would make using the camera seem more complicated rather than less complicated, so I doubt if manufacturers go for it.

 

[etrigan63]

Well, here's hoping that an E-P1 Pro model (my term, hopefully in all black) would include a phase-detect AF system and an EVF (even if it clips onto the hotshoe)

 

[monza]

I very much doubt any micro 4/3 will ever have phase detect.

 

[Vivek]

Well, here's hoping that an E-P1 Pro model (my term, hopefully in all black) would include a phase-detect AF system and an EVF (even if it clips onto the hotshoe)

That would be E-P1u (u = useful)?
(Can't be E-P2 as EP-2 is an eyecup)

I also think there is no chance of a phase detect implemented in an m4/3rds (no room) camera.

Contrast detect is, IMV, not all that bad in low light compared to phase detect.

 

[Brian Mosley]

I've just added a diary entry to our running Olympus Photo Safari Group team review of the E-P1... some observations on CDAF, eye level viewfinder in there.

Hope that helps

Cheers

Brian