Having fun with the E-P1

[Mike Hatam]

Looking good. You seem happy with the set up. There was a short thread going over at LUF and there was the usual outrage the people would put their Leica lenses on a piece of garbage camera....there is a reason I don't hang out over there .

Which of your Leica/Zeiss lenses are you using here? I was keeping a 50 lux in my bag for shots like these.

Yes - this was my 50 pre-asph lux, all shots wide open.

I'm quite happy with this combo. And they 'feel right' together, when in the hand.

I stopped hanging out at LUF long ago

 

[Mike Hatam]

A few shots from Saturday, at the beach (Pajaro Dunes in Watsonville, California). This was my first day with the camera, and experimenting with various lenses.

The action/people shots were taken with the Panny 45-200. All the other shots were taken with the Leica 50 pre-asph lux or the Zeiss ZM 21 f2.8.

These are all out-of-camera jpgs, with some cropping, and minor exposure and color balance adjustments.

I was pleased that the Panny 45-200 was able to focus quickly enough for me to get some action shots of the kids playing in the surf.

 

[Mike Hatam]

Three more from my day at the beach...

 

[jonoslack]

Re: Blown highlights?

I'm seeing a lot of blown highlights in the sample images I have looked at so far. And in many cases they seem to be blowing in a rather ugly way. Is this just a jpeg thing, or are the raw files irretrievable as well? This is the one thing that is preventing me from having a serious interest in this camera.

Bill

HI Bill
I'm not seeing this - of course, blown highlights is mostly due to exposure - if you get it wrong it's hardly the camera's fault!
Still - recovery in the RAW files is pretty good - at least a stop before it starts to get ugly.
I'd say it was better than any of the 4/3 cameras I've used before, the dynamic range and noise response is also good . . . without damaging Olympus' nice colour response.

Have a serious interest!

 

[jonoslack]

Three more from my day at the beach...

Lovely stuff Mike - I could do with a day at the beach, but I'll have to wait until September

I'm glad you're liking it, I think it's fab. My only trouble is getting time to use it seriously - Three weddings in a week, where it was safer to use the A900

 

[fordfanjpn]

Re: Blown highlights?

Where are you seeing all of the blown highlights on this thread or other places? I've actually have been surprised (and posted about it) that the camera seems to handle them pretty well. I believe a lot of people right now are dealing with jpegs waiting for additional RAW support.

Not so much here, but a lot on DPR and Flickr. Take a look at Jono's first pic of the red flower, and you can see on the stem where it curves at the top a fairly ugly white patch. That's just a small example, but I have been seeing very similar and much worse examples of highlights blowing completely out and not in a pretty way. It's probably not good netiquette to post other peoples' pics from other sites here, but I'll see if I can point out some good examples of what I'm seeing. FWIW, it does seem that most of what I'm seeing is jpeg's right from the camera, and I did see in a thread about how to open the E-P1 raw files in a converter some samples comparing the jpeg's to the raw files, and the raw files did seem to hold the highlights better. I guess it remains to be seen.

Bill

 

[jonoslack]

Take a look at Jono's first pic of the red flower, and you can see on the stem where it curves at the top a fairly ugly white patch.

Bill

HI Bill
For the sake of the discussion here it is
The shot was taken in very bright sunlight with water on the stem - which was reflecting the sunlight - the reduction to manageable size has made the shape more awkward. I'm not sure that there is any camera which will not blow specular highlights like this though. Of course, one could expose for it . . . but you'd need superhuman dynamic range to deal with it.
What is also noticeable about this shot is that it's kept the poppy red very manageably exposed - they're notoriously tough to get right.

Pehaps this is a better example in that it really was over-exposed (first day with camera). I've managed to recover quite a lot of detail in what was inherently simply white.

I'm always rather sceptical when people say that a camera 'blows highlights' , because it seems to me that it's almost always an exposure issue. Certainly some RAW files do better at recovery than others

I wouldn't like to be responsible for you thinking that the camera wilfully overexposes and blows highlights on the basis of my crappy photography!

 

[fordfanjpn]

I'm always rather sceptical when people say that a camera 'blows highlights' , because it seems to me that it's almost always an exposure issue. Certainly some RAW files do better at recovery than others

I wouldn't like to be responsible for you thinking that the camera wilfully overexposes and blows highlights on the basis of my crappy photography!

Jono, thanks for commenting. I do agree that often times the highlight problems I see are simply poor exposures. But one thing I know for sure is that your photography is definitely NOT crappy.

I spent some time looking at all the E-P1 images I could find on my calibrated monitor at home, and they do look better than what I was seeing on my (truly) crappy monitor at the office. However, since I'm still looking at jpegs, I think it's best I reserve judgment until we have raw conversion capability and we can start looking at the raw files.

Bill

 

[Godfrey]

... However, since I'm still looking at jpegs, I think it's best I reserve judgment until we have raw conversion capability and we can start looking at the raw files.

Anyone willing to put up with Olympus Master or Studio 2 has RAW processing available now. I hate using Studio 2 ... miserable, clunky software ... but it does actually do excellent rendering.

The only way I know how a camera works for sure is to buy one and use it, test it, myself on the subject matter I shoot and the way I shoot. I don't trust *any* images posted to the web, period. But even with that, I see enough good stuff with the E-P1 already that I am planning to buy one soon.

 

[Godfrey]

Actually, if you configure the E-P1 correctly, it's a simple one button push to get the focus assist.

Cycle through the live views (using the info button) until you get to the one that has a small green square in the middle. That's the mode you want to be in. Once in that mode, simply hit the "ok" button in the middle of the dial, and the small square is magnified to fill the whole screen for focus assist. Simply hit "ok" again to jump back to the regular view.

Cycling through the view options means multiple button presses unless you like living with a green square in the middle of the view all the time and don't want any of the other informational tools available. ;-)

 

[jonoslack]

However, since I'm still looking at jpegs, I think it's best I reserve judgment until we have raw conversion capability and we can start looking at the raw files.

Bill

HI Bill
Actually, that poppy shot was a RAW file processed in Olympus Studio 2 - the highlight on the water on the stem stays - it's simply reflected sunlight - I don't believe any other camera would have done it differently.

 

[Terry]

Cycling through the view options means multiple button presses unless you like living with a green square in the middle of the view all the time and don't want any of the other informational tools available. ;-)

Godfrey,
Part of my issue was self induced. I went into the menu to see what was available and turned it all on not realizing the impact of doing so. The impact is that each option creates another info page. I've now gone in an turned most of it off. So, I'm left with the level, histogram, shooting info, green box page. The green box page is showing me the basic info (aperture, shutter, exposure comp). I can work this way. Once you zoom in, no shooting info. I'm now now much more conscious of where I am (screen wise).

 

[Mike Hatam]

Terry and Godfrey,

I've done the same thing. I've turned off the Live View "info modes" that I don't use, and only have these activated: main view with all the shooting info (you can't turn this one off), level (with level sensor turned on), and green box.

With just those three modes, I can cycle through them very quickly. Green box is my standard, and only go to the others when I need them.

I don't typically use the histogram when composing and shooting. I use it "after the fact" (when reviewing the image) to see if I need to adjust EV and re-shoot. I typically make an adjustment once (i.e. EV +0.3 when at the beach) for a situation, after taking a couple of test shots, and then don't touch EV again until I go into a different lighted situation.

Mike

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Have to say liking this camera more and more as i see images posted. Don't stop

I work like Mike i look at the Histo after i shoot and make adjustments. Rather have a clear screen when shooting. Nice to have features but get them out of my way when I shoot. Tell me later after I have it in the can is my thinking.

 

[AngryCorgi]

Thanks David
Just in case you didn't believe I really had it . . . as I can't take a picture with it, here is a picture of it . . . with the 50-200 aboard of course :ROTFL:

I didn't realize the M8 was so noisy (in the shadows) at ISO640!

 

[Godfrey]

... I work like Mike i look at the Histo after i shoot and make adjustments. Rather have a clear screen when shooting. Nice to have features but get them out of my way when I shoot. Tell me later after I have it in the can is my thinking.

Ah, I tend to use the live histogram a lot with the G1 and would want to use it with the E-P1 too. One button press to show and hide it.. it's easy. It saves me a great deal of the need for bracketing, I only turn that on in truly nasty conditions.

I check with Review and the histogram after the shot only in really difficult lighting situations.

Just differences in working habits. I've become very accustomed to having the live histogram accessible, after my Sony 717 experience, and it is one of the reasons the L1 and G1 were so appealing to me. Chimping ... using review after the fact ... tends to distract me and poses a hitch in my shooting when I'm in the groove. ;-)

 

[Mike Hatam]

OK, after a few days of use, here are some "wishlist" items that I have for the E-P1 to make it even better...

Make the "green square" mode (one of the live-view modes when you cycle through the info button) available as an overlay onto any of the other modes. In other words, make the green square (ability to magnify the center to assist in manual focusing) a toggle, rather than a separate mode.

Provide an easy way to turn off the LCD when in shooting mode. This would be especially useful when using an external view finder. No need to have the LCD displaying the preview image, wasting battery and potentially drawing unwanted attention, when your looking through the viewfinder.

Have a couple of "memorized settings" positions on the top dial. For example, "Custom 1", and "Custom 2". So that I could set up the camera with a particular combination of settings, and then easily choose that set by turning the top dial. The current "preset" functionality is too burried, and non intuitive to use.

Have the "wheel" (around the "OK" button) be used to quickly fast forward through the stored images when in playback mode (similar to the M8).

Have a "my menu settings" page within the menu, where you could store your most frequently accessed menu settings at the top menu level, without having to dig through all the menu pages to find them. The latest Canon bodies (Digit IV) have this capability.

Use the latest "top of the line" high res LCDs that Canon and Nikon are using. They are brighter and nicer to view. The E-P1 LCD is still too easily washed out in bright light, even when set to the brightest setting.

An optional thicker grip would be nice. I would like the grip to be just a tad beefier, for better one-handed use.

Some of those "wish list" items could be done in firmware. Others would be targeted for the next-gen body.

Overall, I'm very happy with the E-P1, despite these "areas for improvement", and am quite pleased to have this as my new main compliment to my 5D II system. I definitely prefer the E-P1 over the G1 - the ergonics and overall system are more to my style of shooting, and feel very good in the hand. The G1 always felt too much like a "super zoom digicam" to me, while the E-P1 feels like a little brother to the M8.

Eventually, we need a solution to the view finder problem. Perhaps and optional electronic VF that could be plugged into the hotshoe? Then it could be removed for times when space is more important, or when you want to use and optical VF (instead of an electronic VF).

Mike

 

[Ranger 9]

1) Provide an easy way to turn off the LCD when in shooting mode...
2) Have a couple of "memorized settings" positions on the top dial...
3) An optional thicker grip would be nice...
4) Eventually, we need a solution to the view finder problem...

There's already a nifty attachment that lets you add all those capabilities to your E-P 1 outfit. Panasonic makes it, and it's called a Lumix G[H]1!

Simply remove your E-P 1 body from your lens, snap on this handy accessory in its place, and like magic you have:

1) Turn-off-able LCD (just fold it in.)
2) Savable settings ("Film 1" and "Film 2".)
3) Thicker handgrip built right in.
4) High-performance eye-level electronic viewfinder built right in.

Seriously, the trouble with grafting features such as a handgrip and EVF onto E-P 1 -- or adding enough structure and connectors to make them "optional" -- is that you'd wind up with a camera that feels like a "super zoom digicam" precisely because it does have those features.

What everybody seems to love about the E-P 1 is its svelteness. Start trying to pack on too many more physical features and you wind up with a very nice camera, but one Panasonic already makes!

 

[Mike Hatam]

There's already a nifty attachment that lets you add all those capabilities to your E-P 1 outfit. Panasonic makes it, and it's called a Lumix G[H]1!

Simply remove your E-P 1 body from your lens, snap on this handy accessory in its place, and like magic you have:

1) Turn-off-able LCD (just fold it in.)
2) Savable settings ("Film 1" and "Film 2".)
3) Thicker handgrip built right in.
4) High-performance eye-level electronic viewfinder built right in.

Seriously, the trouble with grafting features such as a handgrip and EVF onto E-P 1 -- or adding enough structure and connectors to make them "optional" -- is that you'd wind up with a camera that feels like a "super zoom digicam" precisely because it does have those features.

What everybody seems to love about the E-P 1 is its svelteness. Start trying to pack on too many more physical features and you wind up with a very nice camera, but one Panasonic already makes!

OK, point well taken on the grip and EVF. But the other items I suggested don't add to the size, and can be addressed within firmware.

 

[jonoslack]

I didn't realize the M8 was so noisy (in the shadows) at ISO640!

Clumsy PP I fear - it wasn't really the point of the picture.