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Having fun with the E-P1

monza

Active member
Mike, the corner softness is a well-publicized issue, as seen in previous months using the G1. It's a matter of the oblique angles of light hitting the sensor, produced by the rangefinder wide angles. The M8 corrects for this with their sensor.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Both the LX3 and Sigma's DP1 and DP2 can show the focus scale on the screen and all are CDAF, so it should be doable in some way.

It depends on whather the distnce is presented to the body. since Olympus records it in EXIF, we know it is for their bodies and lenses. Panasonic doesn't record it so we can only hope there.
 

Terry

New member
Mike,
The soft corners on wide angle lenses is also a widely documented problem with the G1 (LUF, here and other sites) and was noted in Sean Reid's review of the G1. It isn't clear if it is software correction for m4/3, if the micro lenses in the M8 do more than gather light or what the final answer is. 50's have all been just fine on both cameras.

Also, thank you for your comments on how fast you can focus the 50 lux on the LCD. I said that in a couple of places and people (mostly LUF) sort of laughed. I am much more accurate at 1.4 with both the G1 and EP-1 than I ever was on the M8.
 

monza

Active member
It should also be noted that not every wide angle has an issue. Many people use the 15/4.5 Voigtlander, the 28/1.9, and various 35mm wides with no corner issues on the micro 4/3s.
 

monza

Active member
Terry, I agree, for accuracy, nothing beats focusing directly at the sensor. Of course, the LUFfites will always disagree. :)
 

Mike Hatam

Senior Subscriber Member
Thanks Robert and Terry. I wasn't aware that this was already a known issue.

It's too bad, because that kills one of the primary values of the E-P1 - as a possible replacement for the M8.

Robert -

Have you heard if the Voigtlander 12mm has the issue?

Thanks,
Mike
 

jlm

Workshop Member
"I am much more accurate at 1.4 with both the G1 and EP-1 than I ever was on the M8."

amen
 

Terry

New member
Mike,
I have the 12 and I put in on the camera last night but I was in bad light so I couldn't get good shots that would be usable for a test. I will try and do that tonight and you can have the RAW files to work with.

That being said, if yo need to go out and buy a new 12mm lens, I think the 7-14 is more versatile, faster (by one stop) and produces good results. I can take the same shots with both lenses for you.
 

Mike Hatam

Senior Subscriber Member
Mike,
I have the 12 and I put in on the camera last night but I was in bad light so I couldn't get good shots that would be usable for a test. I will try and do that tonight and you can have the RAW files to work with.

That being said, if yo need to go out and buy a new 12mm lens, I think the 7-14 is more versatile, faster (by one stop) and produces good results. I can take the same shots with both lenses for you.
Thanks Terry - that is a good point. I have the 7-14 on order. But it's a bit large. It would be nice to have a two-lens prime kit for walk around. It will probably end up being the 17/2.8 plus the 50 lux (or Voitlander 40/1.4).

So I guess the CV 12 is not really a necessity.

I sure hope that Panny and Oly roll out some more fast primes. Something in the 10-12mm range, with an f2 - f2.8 speed would be nice. An f1.2 portrait lens would also be nice, but at least we can use the Leica / CV lenses at those focal lengths.

Mike
 

durrIII

New member
Does anyone know when/if Olympus will have lens hoods for the 2 E-P1 lens? And, how much is the leather case and strap? thanks -Durr
 

Terry

New member
Mike the hood is attached and you really do want it attached to protect the front element that sticks out like the Nikon 14-24 or Sigma 12-24 lenses .
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
It should also be noted that not every wide angle has an issue. Many people use the 15/4.5 Voigtlander, the 28/1.9, and various 35mm wides with no corner issues on the micro 4/3s.
That's because these lenses are inverted telephoto designs, which helps make angle of incidence at corners more orthogonal to the sensor plane.

Specifics of lens design do matter. ;-)

IIRC, the M8 sensor uses a combination of differential photosite lenses and special software to deal with the angle of incidence problem. The G1 and FourThirds lenses are designed for a digital sensor so have less of that problem than others, and the G1/GH1/E-P1 include more lens correction processing injected into the RAW conversion process (by the lens) to assist there too.

I'm using the Cosmicar 12.5mm lens, which was designed for a 1" standard television camera. It covers the G1 sensor as a central square (almost!) or as cropped to 16:9 format (almost!). Since it was designed for a sensor, it shows good sharpness right to the edges of its coverage without smearing or artifacts. (Like any ultra-fast lens, it performs best stopped down a little bit, and the weirdness of my adaptation is that I have the lens focused at the infinity point for 4' distance so I have to stop it down to cover sharp focus at distance anyway.)
 

bradhusick

Active member
Thanks, Mike. That was a big help. I don't think the EP1 is a worthy substitute for the M8 quite yet. I do think they'll get there some day. Watch out, Leica.

One more point - if your vision isn't 20/20 there's another issue. If you're farsighted (you need reading glasses) then focusing through an M8 viewfinder is a piece of cake since your focus is distant. If you're using an LCD up close (arm's length or less) then you probably need your reading glasses to focus the camera. Switch this if you're nearsighted (need glasses for driving). I used to be nearsighted but got LASIK eye surgery a few years ago and love the fact that I don't have to wear glasses when using cameras with viewfinders (M8 and SLRs). When I use point-and-shoot cameras I rely on autofocus since I typically don't carry my reading glasses.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Thanks, Mike. That was a big help. I don't think the EP1 is a worthy substitute for the M8 quite yet. I do think they'll get there some day. Watch out, Leica.

One more point - if your vision isn't 20/20 there's another issue. If you're farsighted (you need reading glasses) then focusing through an M8 viewfinder is a piece of cake since your focus is distant. If you're using an LCD up close (arm's length or less) then you probably need your reading glasses to focus the camera. Switch this if you're nearsighted (need glasses for driving). I used to be nearsighted but got LASIK eye surgery a few years ago and love the fact that I don't have to wear glasses when using cameras with viewfinders (M8 and SLRs). When I use point-and-shoot cameras I rely on autofocus since I typically don't carry my reading glasses.
With the MF Assist magnication, I can manually focus my G1 or the E-P1 on the LCD without my glasses at all ... and I am farsighted, wear progressive lenses normally. With the G1's EVF, I can focus the eyepiece with the diopter correction and not need my glasses at all, and even without doing that (since I usually do wear my glasses) it's easy to focus *without* using the MF Assist ... and a cinch with it. :)

I loved my Leica Ms ... all of them ... but I find that for my eyes, the EVF/LCD of the G1 simply performs better. The biggest issue when using the G1's LCD regards getting critical focus is holding the camera steadily, particularly when using longer focal lengths (50mm and up). The E-P1 is less of an issue in this regard due to the in-body image stabilization.
 

Y.B.Hudson III

New member
Yehh... The Noctilux can be used on the M8, with a viewfinder magnifier @ $325±, and a diopter correction @ $95±... which wouLd be a plus*, but this arrangement dims the viewfinder by several stops and negates it's value when used in low light conditions... oh weLL. For a coupLe hundred dollars more you can buy a G1 camera to focus the Noctilux :)


* remember to screw it on before use...




Does the E pEE 1 come with a complementary pair of reading gLasses along with matching knee pads...?
 
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