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DP1 vs E-P1 quick shootout

jonoslack

Active member
Aperture doesn't support the ORF files yet. I've been using RawDeveloper, but find that using "normal" jpg in-camera with sharpening on +2 and contrast on +1 with no NR gives a jpg that I like pretty well. Of course you can't push it around as much in pp, but the main thing is that I have shot the same subject with DLux4, E-P1/17 and K20d/31. They all draw differently. None of them are inherently "better" than the others. They exhibit the relative resolution that you'd expect (K20d>E-P1<DLux4), but that is only part of the story. The E-P1 has a definite grain that the other don't (the K20d is silky smooth, the DLux4 can be blotchy at times). So far I like it. Just need someone to tell me what M lens I should buy :p
That's easy - you need the new Noctilulx, the 24 f1.4 and the WATE :ROTFL:
 

nostatic

New member
That's easy - you need the new Noctilulx, the 24 f1.4 and the WATE :ROTFL:
I was going to get two Noctiluxs and duct tape them together to give me a 100mm lens.

All seriousness aside, I have been pondering either Summarit or Summicron 50. Seems that some have had issues with wide lenses on the u4/3, and having a 100mm equivalent feels like a good portrait/tele choice. And still looks small and light, but I suppose I should handle one.
 
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