Scott,
great work here and on flickr!
Came across your images that you developed HC110 stand - could your briefly describe what you do for TriX 120 with HC110 stand?
Thanks.
It's pretty simple and relatively foolproof. Mix a 1 to 100 solution of HC110 (10 ml in 1000 ml) in room temperature water. This method is pretty independent of temperature, but the water must be exactly room temperature (ie if your room is anywhere from 65 to 80 degrees it is fine, but the water must be exactly that temperature -- I usually have a couple of 1 gallon jugs of water sitting around for just such an occasion).
Pour into your developing tank, do 5 or 6 gentle inversions for the first 30 seconds, give the tank a good hit or two to dislodge any air bubbles, and then leave alone. Do not touch it, do not let it vibrate or shake, just let it sit for 60 minutes. Then pour out, rinse, fix, etc like you would normally do.
It is great for not blowing out highlights, so I usually use it for high contrast photos, and for developing several types of film at the same time. It is also great when I am feeling lazy or thirsty -- it gives an hour for a few cocktails or whatever
.
Some people complain about uneven development with 120 film, but I frequently do 3 rolls at a time in a Patterson tank and have never had any problems.
Depending on the film and exposure, the film will sometimes scan very flat -- this is actually good, just add contrast/curves to taste and you are fine.
This also works great with Rodinal, but I usually prefer the look of HC110.
There is a huge thread on this at RFF, here:
http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61643&highlight=rodinal+stand+develop
Hope this helps
Scott