The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

More and more film fun with something other than a Leica M

chrism

Well-known member
I bought an OM2n a couple of years ago and never got around to playing with it. I was so jealous of my brother's OM1 back in the early seventies, and I'm beginning to remember why. Those microprisms make focusing so easy for old eyes!

50/1.4, XP2, HC-110, X1:


Orchid by chrism229, on Flickr


Dobson's Creek by chrism229, on Flickr


Malagash beach by chrism229, on Flickr

I'm going for my last opera weekend in Toronto next week, and I'm thinking I shall take this little beauty just for fun.

C.
 

JohnBrew

Active member
Chris, enjoying your production with the Olympus. They seem to have a certain presence which really makes them stand out.
All the best,
John
 

chrism

Well-known member
The urge to experiment is upon me again. Running low on HC-110, but with several bottles of Rodinal equivalent in the fridge, I decided it was time to figure out XP2 in Rodinal. I know I can get great results if I expose at ISO200 and develop in 1+100 Rodinal for one hour, but what about something quicker? Looking around I found a blog with examples of ISO200 in Rodinal 1+50 for 9 minutes (here) so I figured by halving the exposure for ISO400 I ought to increase the development by one third, ie 12 minutes. Well, I got a set of rather low contrast negatives, very suitable for scanning, but not so easy for wet prints. It needs more time, but that gets boring. I might try 1+25 for nine minutes next. Curiously, the film lost its characteristic purple base after being developed this way, which would make wet printing simpler.

Pentax SF1n, 50/1.4, X1 scans:

Spanish Dancer 2 by chrism229, on Flickr


Spanish Dancer 1 by chrism229, on Flickr


Chair by chrism229, on Flickr

C.
 

PenSon

New member
Print with selfmade developer. (ParaLith -Paracetamol/Ascorbic Acid/Sodium Carbonate)
Paper Kodak Polycontrast III
Ilford Delta 100, Hasselblad C/M 500, 100mm.

[/url]PolyPLith by Trygve Bjerk, on Flickr[/IMG]

Trygve
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Last Fall, I ordered a new custom-made pinhole 6x6 camera (RealitySoSubtle 6x6) and a 10-pack of Washi 120 film (an orthochromatic emulsion on very thin washi rice paper, ISO 12-25 or so). I've not had a chance to use either until this weekend when I was off to an annual event with friends up on the Mendocino coast.

Of course, I had no experience using the camera or processing the film. :)

I exposed at ISO 10 to get a baseline, estimating that based on an f/16 setting on the meter I'd need about 75x more exposure time for the pinhole's f/137. It's an ultra-ultra wide FoV ... about equivalent to 20mm on a 6x6 frame.

Open tray development is recommended for the film ... but I have no facilities for that. It's too thin and fragile for a standard spiral-reel tank. So I bought an old Kodacraft 120 roll-film tank with the apron style separator. Some interesting developers are also recommended for the film, none of which I have either. So I just mixed up my standard soup of HC-110 at 49:1 and used my standard 8 min @ 70°F to see what I'd get. Here are four images out of the 11 exposures I made:








I am pleased that I managed to get four images out of the playing around I did... :D

The camera worked very nicely.

The film was very underexposed off the highlights, and most of the highlights were blown out. I think the solution there is more exposure plus longer development time at the same dilution. I'll be doing some more experiments ... :)

enjoy!
G
 
Top