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Recommendations for processing B&W sheet film....

bensonga

Well-known member
Hi folks,

I've been thinking about processing my own 4x5 B&W sheet film again. The last time I did this was in the mid-80s, tray development in a darkroom. I don't have a darkroom any longer so I'm not interested in tray development. Any suggestions for what sort of daylight processor works well with sheet film? HP Combi, Jobo processor, etc? TIA.

Gary
 

Jeremy

New member
Jobo 3010 Expert Drum. It's the easiest way I've found that is near fool-proof (though stupidity is never to be underestimated, I guess, so someone has probably screwed it up) and does 10 sheets at one time. Can usually be found $175-300 used on eBay.

You can use it on a Jobo base or save space and put it on a rotating base. I would suggest filling it through a funnel and tube while it's already rotating if you're going to use a rotating base as I've had uneven film density issues filling it on end and then putting it on to rotate.
 

Streetshooter

Subscriber Member
Jeremy's right on the drum.
I did a Beseler Roto Base.
Load the film and fill the tank with distiller water with a few drops of Edwal LFN or any other wetting agent. Rotate for about 2 minutes. This removes the antihalation backing.
Dump and start your development.
The film is now soft and you get very even density.
Shooter
 
O

Oxide Blu

Guest
Never used a Jobo tank, never liked them, some folks love them, some don't. From what I've read, some folks have experienced uneven development using them. I have no idea how that could be the tank's fault.

Back when ... I use a couple of diff daylight dev tanks. One is a common, square, el-cheapo Yankee tank that holds about 10 sheets of film in a plastic frame -- very easy to load in the dark. Wet and messy, but never had a problem developing with it. Just be sure you do the developing in/over a sink.



The other, my favorite, is a stainless steel tank, looks like a regular old 35-mm film development tank on steroids. It's just bigger. And the stainless steel reel/holder thingy that goes inside holds 10 or 12 sheets of 4x5, they slide in from diff points around the side of the holder and kind of spiral toward the center. Put the ss cap on and agitate just like any other ss developing tank, no spilling, no mess -- except that it is heavier. I think it is made by Nikor.

About Edwal LFN wetting agent -- never used it. Never worried about removing the film backing either -- it's gonna come off with or without a wetting agent. I always pre-soak the film with water for a minute or so before developing, gets the emulation prepped for the developer. Also removes the backing from film. Using a wetting agent before drying film is a very good idea -- don't even think about skipping it.

I am a huge fan of sodium thiosulfate based fixers for film and paper. No need for a stop bath or hypo-clear, vastly reduced wash time to achieve archival quality clearing. They also remove the magenta stain from Kodak Tmax films faster and better(?). Make your own TF-3 fixer, or buy TF-4 from Photographers Formulary.

http://www.photoformulary.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabindex=2&tabid=9&CategoryID=3&langID=0
 

Jan Brittenson

Senior Subscriber Member
I use an HP Combi, XTOL, and TF-4. The local Calumet sells both XTOL and TF-4. The Jobo expert drums are easier to load; I have one as well but like the Combi better for manual use. The expert is nicer on a rolling base, but I generally don't bother with setting that up unless I do roll film. For roll film I fill it halfway with water and set it on the roller for a while to completely clear the base of any tint. With Combi I fill it with water and let it sit under a slow running faucet. I'd also recommend getting a tray and putting some filtered water (Brita works fine) with a tsp of rinsing agent and giving each sheet a quick dip before hanging it to dry.
 

Jan Brittenson

Senior Subscriber Member
Oh, and use a WHITE tray for the final rinse, that way it's obvious if the film wasn't properly washed and still has a strong tint, if it needs refixing, or has other obvious problems that you might want to correct.
 
While not as easy/elegant as a 3010 Jobo (which seemed to be running $300 used when I bought mine a few months ago), they also make smaller drum units which are loaded onto reels and then processed on a roller (Uniroller or other). Jobo made kits of drum, reel and film loader guide- may still find some around or used.
 

bensonga

Well-known member
While not as easy/elegant as a 3010 Jobo (which seemed to be running $300 used when I bought mine a few months ago), they also make smaller drum units which are loaded onto reels and then processed on a roller (Uniroller or other). Jobo made kits of drum, reel and film loader guide- may still find some around or used.
Do you mean the Jobo 2500 series tanks and reels? I've been thinking about those instead of the 3010 etc. Looks similar to what I've used for 120 roll film in the past.

Gary
 

bensonga

Well-known member
Thanks Rick. While I was looking at the Jobo kit on the Badger site I noticed the BTZS 4x5 film tube kit. Anyone have experience using one of these?

Gary
 
From what I read while looking at that option (vs. Jobo), some loved 'em and others didn't. There was a you-tube demo video done by Fred from The View Camera Store- I'm sure you can find it somewhere. As I recall, you'd need a darkroom-type setup for at least part of the process- not just a dark place to load reels.
 

Jeremy

New member
Do you mean the Jobo 2500 series tanks and reels? I've been thinking about those instead of the 3010 etc. Looks similar to what I've used for 120 roll film in the past.

Gary
These things are the spawn of the devil. I don't know of anyone who has used them who likes them, honestly. Those that are "okay" with them usually haven't used something else.

It just feels like you're fighting with them to load them.

The 3010 is much more straightforward.
 

Jeremy

New member
Thanks Rick. While I was looking at the Jobo kit on the Badger site I noticed the BTZS 4x5 film tube kit. Anyone have experience using one of these?

Gary
The BTZS tubes are very simple and work wonderfully, but like tray processing require much more lab monkey work and a darkroom (though there are some workarounds there).
 

jeffvk

Member
There are lots of ways to do it. I have used both Jobo systems and they work fine. The system (2500)above at Badger works great, and you can roll or invert. My experience with the Yankee type is it leaks.
Do yourself a favor and take two sheet of film. Practice three times with your eyes open. Then do it three times with your eyes closed. After that you won't have a problem loading film. If you do, close your eyes in the darkroom. I've taught photography for a number of years and this helps everyone who has trouble.
Good luck.
 
O

Oxide Blu

Guest
... My experience with the Yankee type is it leaks.
Yankee tanks don't leak -- they're made with holes in them. :D

As I mentioned above, Yankee tanks are cheap and easy to use, and work very well, but you MUST dev in/over a sink because they are messy! Also, only agitate side to side, not front to back because of the orientation of the film sheets inside. And don't even think about inverting the tank. I was always worried about the top floating off when filling the tank so I took a couple strips of sheet metal from a hold lawn chair and bent them into spring clips that hold the top on securely.

Still, the best 4x5 dev tank I have used it the stainless steel reel and tank made by Nikor. Looks like a regular old 120 roll film dev tank on steroids. Can be inverted.
 

carstenw

Active member
Hmm, searching for the Nikor (Nikkor?) tanks, I find only people complaining about them. Most seem to end up either with the Jobo drums or something like the Yankee tanks.

Thinking about what I want to do and how I want to do it, I think I will personally try the Jobo drums first. I want to spend my time with the photography, and have a simple development routine. I am not (at this time) looking to try special agitation patterns in search of edge effects, and so on.
 
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