Using DSLR to "scan" Kodachrome

[tokengirl]

Man, I'm with you there. Both VueScan and Silverfast are a bad joke, esp. Silverfast. With Silverfast it's as if they had a contest to determine who could come up with the worst random collection and organization of features and icons, and extra bits of goofy software like the "launcher". When Silverfast is running I have three applications running in my dock, with identical icons. Why? My god what a mess.

So true! LOL!!! I like to refer to Silverfast as The Emperor's New Clothes.

 

[tokengirl]

I figured I would bore you with yet another sample, this time it's Fuji Velvia 50.



And here is a 100% crop:


Anyone wanna buy a lightly used Epson V750?
(I am kidding of course - it's still a great tool for batch scanning/proofing)

 

[Valentin]

I had the same results as you for slides.

I have to try the B&W negatives (the color ones sucked ).

 

[photoSmart42]

Here are some of my results using my GH1 with a Fujinon-EP 50 enlarging lens attached to a Leica BEOON copy stand. Color isn't exactly the same, so I'll have to play around with the WB. Also I'm playing around with different apertures on the enlarging lens to make up for the lack of flatness on the slide. Overall I'm pretty pleased.

Original Kodachrome slide scan from Dwayne's:

Scanned slide using my GH1:

 

[coulombic]

I don't know if the resolution of the 30D (8 MP?) is going to prove to be enough. Might be ok for web posting. Keep in mind that doing this with a medium format negative will result in less detail than with a 35mm negative, as you'll have a larger area crammed onto the sensor area.

Also, your 150 macro combined with the 30D's crop sensor and larger surface to capture may give you a working distance that is longer than what might be comfortable. I am finding that to capture a 35mm negative on a full frame sensor with a 100mm macro lens, the distance from the front of the lens to the film surface is about 6 inches. Which means I can place the lightbox at the edge of my desk, have my tripod legs touching up against the desk and raised low enough that I can easily see the back of the camera to check exposure and focus. You would have to have either your tripod raised higher, or use a lower working surface to place the lightbox on. So you'll need to experiment a little I think.

Seems as if you could possibly increase your end-resolution by stitching different shots taken of the negative? Instead of trying to cover the entire negative via 35mm, go to 1:1 with your macro, or even close with rings. Might be worth a shot.