Review of Tim Isaac's M-Coder

nice summary;
you got my e-mail wrong, though:
[email protected] not [email protected]

thnx

jm

Nice review Carlos, thanks for posting the link! Just so everybody knows, the kit costs $68.

Jack

jlm said:

nice summary;
you got my e-mail wrong, though:
[email protected] not [email protected]

thnx

jm

Click to expand...

Fixed.

I have a coder on the way from Tim. It is not for non-Leica lenses but for my Leica ones. I have had two attempts at getting Solms to code my lenses. They quoted 2 weeks to do a current model Elmarit 90/2.8. After much chasing, it finally arrived back after 6 weeks - uncoded but at least with refund but no explanation! They coded and cleaned/serviced my Noctilux. It came back with the focus 2 meters out at 8 meters (it was OK when it went). I have just got a 2006 vintage chrome 35/1.4 ASPH Summilux which not only focuses spot on but has even got minimal aperture shift - a gem not to be messed with under any circumstances. Do I want the Solms tractor mechanics wielding their screwdrivers on it - no I don't. I will also code my 90 Elmarit, currently Sharpie coded and my 135 Tele-Elmarit, which I have failed to hand code as a 135 Spectacles Elmarit. It is a difficult one to get right as the codes have to be in a different position, since I over-rotate the lens to bring up the 28/90 frames. I may well end up sending the 135 mount to JM as he has offered to mill an extended lock tab slot plus the pits in the amended location - impressive.

Wilson

I've had Tim's M-coder (as part of the D-coder kit) for 2 weeks or so and it successfully coded both my 35 Cron asph and Apo 90 Cron asph at the first attempt - we're talking 5 minutes tops for the pair.

But what impressed me just as much was just 4 days shipping from China to London!

Kudos to Tim.

Pete.

Farnz said:

But what impressed me just as much was just 4 days shipping from China to London!

Click to expand...

oh good! now i have an idea when to expect mine in philadelphia. thanks for that tidbit.

—dan

Tim is sending one for our workshops to demo. Hopefully we can post a review on it.

I got my coder from Tim yesterday. It is beautifully presented. I did my 35 ASPH Lux, one of the more difficult ones to hand code, almost at first go. Operator error on first attempt. Now going to try for the 135 Tele-Elmar over rotated as the 135 Elmarit - it may take a fair bit of trial and error.

Wilson

One addition about the milling of the indentations: If you feel sufficiently courageous,any dental technician or even dentist should be able to do so guided by the m-coder. Just stick duct-tape over the open end of the mount and there is no need to remove it. I know at least one dental technician who did so without problems for all his lenses - and this was way back before the m-coder.

jaapv said:

One addition about the milling of the indentations: If you feel sufficiently courageous,any dental technician or even dentist should be able to do so guided by the m-coder. Just stick duct-tape over the open end of the mount and there is no need to remove it. I know at least one dental technician who did so without problems for all his lenses - and this was way back before the m-coder.

Click to expand...

I would use gaffers tape or blue painters tape as it leaves less residue. I would also tape a sheet of paper around the barrel of the lens just at the bottom edge of the flange to make sure no filings get into the mechanisms. Maybe I'm being paranoid.

I would use the m-coder to place the six marks and then let the guy with the drill have at. No point in messing up the m-coder. This is, however, a lot of effort to save about $30. John Milich will professionally machine your flange on a CNC milling machine. Quite worth it if you ask me.

i just received mine this afternoon and tried it on my zeiss biogon 35mm f2,0. at first it didn't register until i used the thick tip to mark where i had marked with the thin tip. very nice. a no-brainer.

I agree; it arrived promptly and it works. DR

Jaap, can you elaborate? Why would a dentist want to mill my M lenses? What tools do they have for working with hardened steel?