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Thanks Joe. I use the split tone sliders in LR and my split tone slider starting points with a desaturated RGB file are as follows:
Another beauty Graham. Well done. Did you have long exposure noise reduction on?Yosemite Falls under the light of the super moon. Basically still noise free!
X-Pro1 18mm 6min @ f/4 ISO 200
Stunning, Graham!The moonbow was shot in manual mode using bulb exposure and a good old fashioned cable release. What's really funny was that the other folks around me were using the timer display on the back of the X-Pro1 so that they could accurately release their DSLR shutters.
For moonlight shots I followed the normal approach of using a starting point of 4 min @ f/4 & ISO 400 but it was exceptionally bright and so ended up at 1-1/2 minutes to get a reasonable exposure without blowing out the water. White balance was daylight although I tuned the grey point in PS to neutralize it a bit.
The other nice thing about the X-Pro1 is the manual focusing control - for this scene I was able to use the focus scale on the rear LCD to zone focus manually because the light levels were too low to use any form of AF or the viewfinder directly. Just simply dial in the focus and watch the focus indicator so that it was at 100ft -> infinity and you're done.
I processed this using the Fuji raw converter but it only outputs 8bit & Adobe RGB to generate a tiff for PS. I'd rather produce 16bit ProPhotoRGB raws and so maybe I need to look at RPP or Silkypix for that until we have ACR support. Processing was just grey point neutralization, a little shadow/highlight to bring up the shadows and basic tone curve.
The good news is that the jpg looks pretty darned close too! I'm very impressed with the X-Pro1. The corners get a little smeary with the 18mm but overall all of the lenses seem excellent too. I just wish that 14mm were available today.
FYI, here's the out of camera jpg - just resized and sharpened for web :thumbs: - hmm, I think I may revisit the image and tone down that sky in the raw version.
Thanks Rich. Yes, just sent a batch to Mpix. Haven't done much B&W printing lately so I'm a bit curious how these will look. Any suggestions?
This is one of those cameras that I'm increasingly becoming more and more trusting of it's automation and jpg capabilities. It's hard for me to let go and not shoot everything manually or at least AE priority with EV compensation. Ditto processing raw files - the Fuji converter seems pretty decent for neutral base images that I then load in to PS CS5 for basic curves and setting a grey point. Nothing else needed in most files so far, and then after all that they annoyingly end up looking almost like the out of camera jpg!
:facesmack:
