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Thread: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by nostatic View Post
    How is the cat cooked?

    Sorry - it was a joke. I am owned by two cats and they would laugh. Actually, this is perhaps appropriate: Sad Cat Diary - YouTube
    Off topic, but absolutely one of my favorite videos

    Doug

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by nostatic View Post
    But then I brought the jpg shots home to look at and wasn't really impressed. No green grass as it was inside a store, but instead blown highlights that I couldn't recover in LR. By contrast, the raw files of the same scene from the A7r held up just fine. Part of that is just physics I guess. I used to shoot my Oly at -0.3 or -0.7 to preserve highlights - maybe that is necessary with the XT1?

    I'd really love to love this camera, as the 18-55, 55-200, and 56/1.2 would be a great general purpose system. But I fear I may have been spoiled by the Sony FF files...
    HI Todd

    Well, it's a completely different sensor - one which is not loved by LR (which might of course be a reason not to try it).

    I had an A7r, and couldn't stand the 'stamping on a tin can' shutter - but that's just me. I like the A7, which seems more controlled. The colour on the Fuji is lovely - the small lenses for µ43 are great - the limited dof with FF is splendid, the increased dof with µ43 is really useful - you pays your money and you makes your choice. But if you're used to Sony files, then maybe a quick look at the X-trans files isn't enough - certainly they've caught me snapping!

    All the best

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    HI Todd

    Well, it's a completely different sensor - one which is not loved by LR (which might of course be a reason not to try it).

    I had an A7r, and couldn't stand the 'stamping on a tin can' shutter - but that's just me. I like the A7, which seems more controlled. The colour on the Fuji is lovely - the small lenses for µ43 are great - the limited dof with FF is splendid, the increased dof with µ43 is really useful - you pays your money and you makes your choice. But if you're used to Sony files, then maybe a quick look at the X-trans files isn't enough - certainly they've caught me snapping!

    All the best
    Well, I'm going to go ahead and get one as I don't think 10 min in the camera shop is enough. I've made my peace with the A7r as for certain things I love the files. But it isn't really a "walkabout" cam in my hands. The RX1r actually is probably the best performer (quiet, great glass, great files) although that may be the one that gets replaced by the Fuji due to flexibility and lack of an EVF. I think the 55-200 could end up getting a fair amount of use.

    That said, I think the A7 still is my favorite to shoot even though I don't have one any more. With the EFC the shutter *snick* was actually a nice companion. If I had cubic dollars to spend I'd pick up another one. But I'm trying to limit myself to 3 cameras max, and preferably 2. The A7r is the "gotta have stupid high rez) solution and I love the 55/1.8. The RX1r is the "shhhh, gotta be quiet" solution, and I have an RX100ii which is the "small as possible". Truth be told I don't use the RX100ii much as the RX1r, while not pocketable, isn't that much bigger. And the file difference is night and day.

    So maybe I should keep the RX1r and get rid of the RX100ii, with the XT1 being the "long and quiet" solution.

    Bah - too many good choices. Paralysis by analysis...great to read your travails though as a reference point.
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by nostatic View Post
    Bah - too many good choices. Paralysis by analysis...great to read your travails though as a reference point.
    Well, it's good to give them all a try - A7 sounds very noisy next to the XT1 - darling camera - just getting to grips with how to deal with the files.

    . . . . come on Apple!

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Yeah, I've actually been using LR5 mostly these days since it seems to deal better with the Sony raw files out of the box. I still prefer Aperture's cataloging. One attraction to the Fuji is being able to just shoot jpg and call it a day since one of their claims to fame are the film modes and jpg engine. But the detail needs to remain and I typically turn NR off on anything I shoot.

    I was pleasantly surprised at how quiet the XT1 was - that was frankly what sold me. I figured it could replace the RX1r on that front, but I think I'll lose IQ. The more I think about it, the more I think I can just ditch the RX100ii and put that towards the Fuji purchase. I lose pocket ability, but that is about it. The 1" sensor, while punching above its weight, isn't going to compete with either the Fuji and especially the Sony FF. Since the zoom only goes to 100mm, with cropping I'm going to get a better result with shooting the A7r @ 70mm. So the Fuji with the 55-200 is a big win.

    That said, dropping the RX1r would certainly pay for more of the XT1
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    HI Todd
    Get the XT1 and then decide what to drop later (that's what I'm doing), at least the losses involved in keeping a new camera for a month or so compare pretty favorably to renting it!

    Just this guy you know
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by GrahamWelland View Post
    Btw, if anyone comes across the perfect camera please let us all know

    Still looking ...
    oh, that's easy:

    A7r with a silent leaf shutter, 5-axis IBIS, Fuji colors, 21/24/35/50/85 f1.2 primes that are the size of the Oly 45/1.8 and f2.8 zooms that are the size/weight of the Panasonics.

    I'll get busy with the Dremel tool...
    new album | nostatic | music
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by nostatic View Post
    oh, that's easy:

    A7r with a silent leaf shutter, 5-axis IBIS, Fuji colors, 21/24/35/50/85 f1.2 primes that are the size of the Oly 45/1.8 and f2.8 zooms that are the size/weight of the Panasonics.

    I'll get busy with the Dremel tool...
    I always figured that it was just the NEXT one ...

    I like your definition but I also need it to work on my Alpas
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

    As Oscar Wilde said, "my tastes are simple, I only like the best"

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    I did one more trial with the X-E2 samples I posted before. I turned off LR's sharpening and used NIK's sharpening instead. Quite a difference. Seems like LR's sharpening plays into this issue as well?

    Doug

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by docmoore View Post
    Jon,

    Not that you started a flame war but you seem to be relatively new here so a few facts....

    []

    Jono has called out a problem that may be a deal breaker for a lot of folks....hope it can be resolved but I assume this can be done without disparaging others as we resolve it.

    Regards,

    Bob
    The real fact here is that this is all very old news and has been fixed already. This discussion has already been had many times over when the XPro-1 came out, and it's a done deal by now. What remains is- does the RAW converter that you use for your daily workflow supports the Xtrans well or not- that's a deal breaker for some.

    But this is not a new issue, by now is not really an issue and the whole movie and theater play on Xtrans has already played to the end. You can't expect to simply come in get a new camera and all of a sudden find a "major issue" that when it comes down to it doesn't exist, though I do understand raising the question about it for someone new to the use of this sensor.

    - Ricardo

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi View Post
    Ricardo, may I ask you which settings you have used in Iridient? I have tried myself and with the default settings I get a lot o reddish/purplish artifacts on the bark of the tree and very few also on the grass; to remove them completely I have to push to the far right the ChromAdaptive slider and a bit also the Chromalogic (5) recovering then some sharpness with RL Deconvolution (0.4 - 16). I am sure there are also better combinations but this is what I found in 10 minutes.
    I will paste the Iridient settings I used. I actually screen-shotted them but forgot to upload. I am not at home now but when I get home I will paste it.

    A few more words on the whole Bayer/Xtrans thing-
    -----------------------------------------------
    Fuji created Xtrans to feel confident to remove the AA filter to increase detail in capture while avoiding the risk of color Moire.

    As it always happens, with any engineering solution, there are tradeoffs and pros and cons. I personally believe the tradeoffs that FujiFilm chose in pursuing this design work better than Bayer for most photography.

    And always remember, Bayer *also* has artifacts. It's a de-mosaic algorithm after all. The only sensor design that would not be having these artifacts would be a Foveon X3 with no noise, but you can guess by that wording what tradeoff the Foveon sensor is making :-)

    Xtrans has *more* green photo sites than red and blue vs Bayer. This means for red and blue, a Bayer sensor would have more resolution. This is countered to some degree by the AA filter Bayer sensors need unless you are using an AAless Bayer.

    But if you use an AAless Bayer, you risk color Moire and there's no free lunch here. For example Olympus mentions in their specs of EM1 there's no AA filter, but the shots and JPEGS I am seeing do not seem to have the sharpness or bite that I would expect from a good/pure AAless Bayer (a good comparison may be those Ricoh GR files). Why is that? Because they are doing post processing on the image to get rid of color Moire- and I am sure if you use iridient on it or other raw converters you can get more detail than the Jpegs- but now you have to deal with color Moire.

    Xtrans *can still* get color Moire but is much more rarer than an AAless Bayer. And because as I mentioned Xtrans is richer in green, black and white conversions actually work better for Xtrans vs Bayer designs, due to that being the color our eyes are most sensitive for luminance.

    With the right raw converter Xtrans detail is somewhere between typical Bayer (with AA filter) and Foveon- more so in B&W.

    A pure AAless Bayer should capture in color more detail overall but then you will have to often nuke detail because color moire shows up. And if you hare shooting say a wedding with 250 shots (assuming you are that good to nail almost every shot), imagine having to look for color moire on every single shot.... all those dresses, clothes and veils.

    It's what Thom Hogan said once- Fuji changed some artifacts for others when doing the Xtrans sensor and to me the tradeoff works for the bigger gain on most cases.

    But this required a whole re-thinking of RAW converter algorithm (it took Fuji themselves 2 years to do the math for their JPEG engine after all) and RAW converters have had years and years of experience with the Bayer color filter array pattern. It's only natural that out of the gate most raw converters would have issues.

    If you want the cheapest solution, grab the SilkyPix included- Fuji worked with them to do a new rev of their algorithm and if you know how to use the right settings it works reasonably well.

    Capture one 7 for me is overall the best one. Iridient is pretty good, particularly when pursuing pure detail though it has more color artifacts. But again- will this really matter to your overall image printed or shown on a web page? The image still has that extra bite of micro contrast for not having the AA filter.

    And that's pretty much it. The world doesn't end and a lot of you quite frankly seem to me buying this camera when you already had a -so you have said- a fantastic camera, so I don't get it.

    Why the "need" to buy greatest and latest when the domains of shooting for the tool overlap with the one you have which you said you love so much?

    Anyway :-)

    - Ricardo
    Last edited by raist3d; 27th February 2014 at 20:28.
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Ario, here are the settings I used. It's a bit sharpened up, lowering the sharpness perhaps to 5-6 may be better overall and still provide a lot of "bite."

    The slides for Chroma need to be adjusted to taste and image. Do keep in mind even having some mild random pixels that stray from a pure green may be desirable and even valid depending what the sensor is sampling in that location.

    Remember with film there were particles that would respond to different light colors, and it was their collage that created a certain look. I think when you print or size reduce the image gains a bit of that characteristic which may also be pleasant.

    Of course, depends on subject and what you want to accomplish as a photographer.



    - Ricardo
    Last edited by raist3d; 27th February 2014 at 20:42. Reason: Uploaded smaller settings image.
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quick tip for Jono (or anyone):

    - If you want Fuji Film simulation type colors- set your camera accordingly to those film simulations
    - If you want a more Olympus m4/3rds / Kodak look - set your camera to Neg - HI and if you want a softer version of that use Neg - LO

    On Fuji Jpegs- Fuji does have in my opinion the best jpeg engine overall followed by a very close second- Olympus. (I would put both in the same "class" just that I feel Fuji edges them by a hair).

    The thing that Fuji does really well is color transitions - like if you edit the JPEG, they are probably the most resilient I have seen to posterization.

    Another tip- play with the settings for in-camera RAW conversion. There's sharpness, noise reduction, color saturation and higher end & lower end contrast curve tweaks.

    It does make a big difference. Save several versions, upload to your computer and check it out.

    Personally I found Fuji JPEGS outstanding to keep and hold color in mixed color situations, while their RAWS with a good raw converter also keeps such color. It's like their clip points for the R, G and B photo sensors are similar (or enough range in each that it doesn't matter).

    - Ricardo

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Thank you Ricardo.
    I prefer a less aggressive sharpening (something like 0.4/ 15), but this is a matter of taste and subject.
    More critical in this particular picture were for me many quite evident reddish artifacts specially on the bark of the tree which I could remove only playing quite aggressively with the Chroma sliders. Not a big deal since the increased softness is easily controlled with the sharpening tool.Didn’t you see anything like that?
    Ario
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    HI Ricardo
    Whilst I agree with some of this, I don't agree with all of it.

    As far as your 'done deal' post - whilst I don't disagree, if it was a done deal 2 years ago, then people buying into the camera now won't know about it - in which case this post is relevant and useful I'd say.

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    I will paste the Iridient settings I used. I actually screen-shotted them but forgot to upload. I am not at home now but when I get home I will paste it.
    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    A few more words on the whole Bayer/Xtrans thing-
    -----------------------------------------------

    snip


    But if you use an AAless Bayer, you risk color Moire and there's no free lunch here. For example Olympus mentions in their specs of EM1 there's no AA filter, but the shots and JPEGS I am seeing do not seem to have the sharpness or bite that I would expect from a good/pure AAless Bayer (a good comparison may be those Ricoh GR files). Why is that? Because they are doing post processing on the image to get rid of color Moire- and I am sure if you use iridient on it or other raw converters you can get more detail than the Jpegs- but now you have to deal with color Moire.
    Whilst I agree with you about the E-M1, I don't think the argument in general holds. I've been using Leica M cameras for 7 years now, no filter - and the number of shots where Moire was a problem are very very few - and fixable in Aperture - colour artefacts in specular highlights is another issue . . . but then the Xtrans suffers from that as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post

    Xtrans *can still* get color Moire but is much more rarer than an AAless Bayer. And because as I mentioned Xtrans is richer in green, black and white conversions actually work better for Xtrans vs Bayer designs, due to that being the color our eyes are most sensitive for luminance.

    With the right raw converter Xtrans detail is somewhere between typical Bayer (with AA filter) and Foveon- more so in B&W.
    Well, I really agree with you about the colour - which is why I'm here frankly (together with the lovely design of the XT1

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    A pure AAless Bayer should capture in color more detail overall but then you will have to often nuke detail because color moire shows up. And if you hare shooting say a wedding with 250 shots (assuming you are that good to nail almost every shot), imagine having to look for color moire on every single shot.... all those dresses, clothes and veils.

    It's what Thom Hogan said once- Fuji changed some artifacts for others when doing the Xtrans sensor and to me the tradeoff works for the bigger gain on most cases.
    I'm sorry - I really dispute this - I've shot lots of weddings with the M9 and the M, and it simply isn't an issue. Whatever Thom Hogan might say!
    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post

    But this required a whole re-thinking of RAW converter algorithm (it took Fuji themselves 2 years to do the math for their JPEG engine after all) and RAW converters have had years and years of experience with the Bayer color filter array pattern. It's only natural that out of the gate most raw converters would have issues.

    If you want the cheapest solution, grab the SilkyPix included- Fuji worked with them to do a new rev of their algorithm and if you know how to use the right settings it works reasonably well.

    Capture one 7 for me is overall the best one. Iridient is pretty good, particularly when pursuing pure detail though it has more color artifacts. But again- will this really matter to your overall image printed or shown on a web page? The image still has that extra bite of micro contrast for not having the AA filter.
    Well, I'm still holding out for Aperture to be good enough for most circumstances - I looked at their processing for previous Xtrans sensors and it looked okay. nice to have Iridient up one's sleeve, and of course I do also have LR and Capture one 7 (although I don't like either very much)

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post

    And that's pretty much it. The world doesn't end and a lot of you quite frankly seem to me buying this camera when you already had a -so you have said- a fantastic camera, so I don't get it.

    Why the "need" to buy greatest and latest when the domains of shooting for the tool overlap with the one you have which you said you love so much?

    Anyway :-)
    Clearly this is directed at me, so I'll answer for me. I use my M cameras for most things, certainly everything where I'm producing work for other people and of other people.

    However, I do lots of walking, skiing, travelling, and for this personal work I like to have a camera with a good zoom lens which is reasonably robust and good to use. It needs to do close up and landscape and have reasonably snappy AF.

    Mirrorless is a godsend for me, because it allows me to do this with something small and perfectly formed. However, I want to know what's best for me, and I'm questioning whether µ43 (which I've been using since the EM5 arrived) is still the right answer. First I tried an A7r (didn't like it and returned it). Now I have an A7, an E-M1 and the X-T1, - I want to know which is the best way forward, and I can't find that out from reviews.

    At some point over the next month or so I'll make a decision on what I'm going to use (and write it up), then I'll sell everything else - these days with ebay it's much cheaper and more satisfactory to buy a camera and keep it for a couple of months than it is to rent.

    This way I can work out whether I can fit the camera into my Aperture workflow (this is not negotiable incidentally - I've learned that lesson at least). I can work out how to process the files for me, what's good and what's bad - other people's files just don't do it.

    Ergonomics are also very personal and extremely important.

    For the A7 and the X-T1 I only have the zoom lens - because that's what I'll use it for most. If I decide to go for Sony or Fuji then I'll get more lenses when I sell the µ43 kit.

    So Ricardo - perhaps now you understand - others are in a similar position - right now there are a lot of new options on the table, and it's a good time to be deciding which direction to jump, and I'd rather do it with the right information at my fingertips . . . wouldn't you?

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Jono

    Just a tease but you really need to get the Fuji 35mm prime ...

    Lee

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi View Post
    Thank you Ricardo.
    I prefer a less aggressive sharpening (something like 0.4/ 15), but this is a matter of taste and subject.
    More critical in this particular picture were for me many quite evident reddish artifacts specially on the bark of the tree which I could remove only playing quite aggressively with the Chroma sliders. Not a big deal since the increased softness is easily controlled with the sharpening tool.Didn’t you see anything like that?
    Which part of the bark of the tree? I mean, I posted the tree and I didn't see any. I saw some hints in some areas of the branches, but that can be easily tweaked and it was pretty minor.

    - Ricardo

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    HI Ricardo
    Whilst I agree with some of this, I don't agree with all of it.

    As far as your 'done deal' post - whilst I don't disagree, if it was a done deal 2 years ago, then people buying into the camera now won't know about it - in which case this post is relevant and useful I'd say.
    I am not saying your post isn't useful. But look at the context in which it was posted- "oh noes, camera doesn't seem to work, I may have to return." ;-) And it all piled on all of it. So yes, I think it's useful to know what works and doesn't, but I just thought the initial context of some of what was posted was a bit too alarmist for a story that has been played already.


    Thank you
    Sure thing (on the Iridient Settings).

    Whilst I agree with you about the E-M1, I don't think the argument in general holds. I've been using Leica M cameras for 7 years now, no filter - and the number of shots where Moire was a problem are very very few - and fixable in Aperture - colour artefacts in specular highlights is another issue . . . but then the Xtrans suffers from that as well.
    The frequency with which you will find color moire is going to depend a lot of how sharp the lens is at the moment you shoot with it and what you are shooting with. I can say right now, with the Ricoh GR I have found a share of situations where color moire shows up - but then the Ricoh GR from what I see has a very sharp prime lens. It's not every single shot, but there are "danger areas" that I already know what to look for - like vertical blinds, I just got some last weekend on a radial metal thing that was on the ground, etc.

    Yes, you can clean it up in LightRoom, but usually that involves zapping out some detail. What I mentioned on the E-M1 was about the jpegs, not the RAW's per se, as an example of how the jpegs engines are differing form the sensor's potential.

    Now, if you had to shoot a wedding- the wedding example- that is workflow a killer, if you just have to look for every shot *just in case* the color moire showed up- since you now have a client, and it's a wedding, and etc. etc. etc.

    So I didn't mean to say that you will see color moire in every shot or such, and sorry if that's how it came across. But basically Xtrans is much more resilient to it.

    Well, I really agree with you about the colour - which is why I'm here frankly (together with the lovely design of the XT1


    I'm sorry - I really dispute this - I've shot lots of weddings with the M9 and the M, and it simply isn't an issue. Whatever Thom Hogan might say!
    The wedding example is something I said, not him. What Thom Hogan commented was that Fuji changed a set of artifacts for another. As for the Leica again, if the moire is not showing up that much, it's because it's not being shot at the sharpest. In that case the lens is acting as a mild AA filter (it's what happens most of the time with the Q).

    Well, I'm still holding out for Aperture to be good enough for most circumstances - I looked at their processing for previous Xtrans sensors and it looked okay. nice to have Iridient up one's sleeve, and of course I do also have LR and Capture one 7 (although I don't like either very much)
    I find Aperture pretty decent for handling color, just not the best DR or sharp. To me (my personal take) it all depends what I am shooting- if I am shooting a portrait I really don't care all that much for max detail as long as there's a bit of micro contrast bite. If I was shooting a landscape (which I normally don't) then I would like to get the max.

    Clearly this is directed at me, so I'll answer for me. I use my M cameras for most things, certainly everything where I'm producing work for other people and of other people.
    To be certain and precise, not just you :-) I see a group here that seems to upgrade to whatever is the latest. Of course, just an observation, it's not my money. In the end we only live once.

    I do personally find changing systems and cameras a lot hurts photography and I have had my share of this too.

    However, I do lots of walking, skiing, travelling, and for this personal work I like to have a camera with a good zoom lens which is reasonably robust and good to use. It needs to do close up and landscape and have reasonably snappy AF.

    Mirrorless is a godsend for me, because it allows me to do this with something small and perfectly formed. However, I want to know what's best for me, and I'm questioning whether µ43 (which I've been using since the EM5 arrived) is still the right answer. First I tried an A7r (didn't like it and returned it). Now I have an A7, an E-M1 and the X-T1, - I want to know which is the best way forward, and I can't find that out from reviews.
    I'll have to agree with some of that. It's true, reviews- a lot of them are not really all that good. I still think pushing oneself with one model one finds at certain point one likes may be better for photography but I can see with ever changing technology why check out something new.

    At some point over the next month or so I'll make a decision on what I'm going to use (and write it up), then I'll sell everything else - these days with ebay it's much cheaper and more satisfactory to buy a camera and keep it for a couple of months than it is to rent.

    This way I can work out whether I can fit the camera into my Aperture workflow (this is not negotiable incidentally - I've learned that lesson at least). I can work out how to process the files for me, what's good and what's bad - other people's files just don't do it.
    I honestly don't see why you picked an A7 if you didn't like the A7R. I guess the AF but was that the reason? (genuinely curious). If you ask me if Aperture is that key I would give a good workout of some extreme files you would like to see or expect a certain result with the XT1 on Aperture, and then decide there. I think if you would like to use Aperture mainly, maybe the EM-1 is better.

    Out of curiosity, what is not "making it" for you in m43rs that you are questioning it?

    Ergonomics are also very personal and extremely important.
    I agree a lot with this. I would say that some ergonomics can be objectively criticized on some angles as better or worse. Not all of it, but some. I really think that Olympus E-3's introduction of the button + mode change by wheel was a step back from the E-1 design. (just one example).

    I really dislike "wheels" that also act as arrow buttons because the feedback and how sometimes it's easy to hit a setting when you wanted to turn the wheel (in particular I saw this issue real bad with the GM1 when I tried it 4 times because I really wanted to like it).

    For the A7 and the X-T1 I only have the zoom lens - because that's what I'll use it for most. If I decide to go for Sony or Fuji then I'll get more lenses when I sell the µ43 kit.

    So Ricardo - perhaps now you understand - others are in a similar position - right now there are a lot of new options on the table, and it's a good time to be deciding which direction to jump, and I'd rather do it with the right information at my fingertips . . . wouldn't you?
    I understand that part but picture this. Not so long ago you seemed pretty happy- er. no, ecstatic with the Em-1. What changed? Did the camera become worse? I propose that the amount of time spent researching a possible "greener field" takes away from learning more photography.

    By now I have been here long enough to see a group of people sing praises of a brand and a model, saying that this is it, it meets their needs and is better than what they had in general, only to change to whatever is next greatest and latest.

    Anyway, in the end that's not my business, not my cash, not my time.

    Now that you do have an XT1 in hand, it's good to know how to make the best of it to decide, for sure.

    To come forward with a disclosure- I am also thinking long and hard at the moment what's next, because I am realizing that I really am not using cameras that at this point do not have either a leaf shutter or an electronic shutter option. This is why I knew the XT1 wasn't for me- but if I was shooting a wedding a month (at least) that's most likely what I would pick up.

    Either that or a great Pentax K-5ii which is now ridiculously cheap here ($650 USD? For a semi pro DSLR with weather sealing? Wow).

    - Ricardo

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    Which part of the bark of the tree? I mean, I posted the tree and I didn't see any. I saw some hints in some areas of the branches, but that can be easily tweaked and it was pretty minor.

    - Ricardo
    I see them at the base of the tree, mainly, and some on the grass. But as I said is not a big deal to control them.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    I am not saying your post isn't useful. But look at the context in which it was posted- "oh noes, camera doesn't seem to work, I may have to return." ;-) And it all piled on all of it. So yes, I think it's useful to know what works and doesn't, but I just thought the initial context of some of what was posted was a bit too alarmist for a story that has been played already.
    Actually Ricardo - this is a real misrepresentation of how I started the post, which was like this:

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    HI There
    I'm sure someone knows the best settings for jpgs.
    I've been using various settings but I've found greens (grass especially) to be rather smeary in the jpgs.
    I've turned off noise reduction - but I'm not sure which is the best jpg setting to use, and whether there is a way to stop this.

    Of course, I'll shoot RAW later (when it's supported by Aperture), but in the meantime I'd rather not resort to DNG conversion and Lightroom.

    Any ideas what the best settings would be?

    Thanks in advance
    Nothing about returning the camera, nothing alarmist, an admission that I didn't know the right settings and asking for help.


    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    The frequency with which you will find color moire is going to depend a lot of how sharp the lens is at the moment you shoot with it and what you are shooting with. I can say right now, with the Ricoh GR I have found a share of situations where color moire shows up - but then the Ricoh GR from what I see has a very sharp prime lens. It's not every single shot, but there are "danger areas" that I already know what to look for - like vertical blinds, I just got some last weekend on a radial metal thing that was on the ground, etc.
    Last wedding I shot was mostly with the 50 Apo Summicron . . . no moire - sharp - indeed.
    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    Yes, you can clean it up in LightRoom, but usually that involves zapping out some detail.
    Actually, I think it's really tough in LightRoom - I said Aperture - which seems to do a much better job


    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    Now, if you had to shoot a wedding- the wedding example- that is workflow a killer, if you just have to look for every shot *just in case* the color moire showed up- since you now have a client, and it's a wedding, and etc. etc. etc.
    I'm sorry - I STILL disagree - I understand all about weddings and workflow (which is why Aperture is non-negotiable incidentally) - I certainly don't have to look at every shot *just in case*

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    I find Aperture pretty decent for handling color, just not the best DR or sharp. To me (my personal take) it all depends what I am shooting- if I am shooting a portrait I really don't care all that much for max detail as long as there's a bit of micro contrast bite. If I was shooting a landscape (which I normally don't) then I would like to get the max.
    Aperture seems to be much more 'hands off' in terms of processing, I do agree about DR and sharpness (and noise reduction too) - there are better solutions for all of these, but if I can get a decent A2+print for landscapes then that's okay for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post

    To be certain and precise, not just you :-) I see a group here that seems to upgrade to whatever is the latest. Of course, just an observation, it's not my money. In the end we only live once.

    I do personally find changing systems and cameras a lot hurts photography and I have had my share of this too.
    I realise that it wasn't *only* directed at me, but it turns on a lot of people, and as you say - it's not your money

    Personally I Actually find it quite stimulating to try out different solutions, but, to be honest I'm getting a bit tired of it at the moment and would like to settle for a mirrorless system to go with my Leica M and Ricoh GR (pocket cam). But anyway, one of the things I do is test cameras! It's kind of good to keep up with what everyone is doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post

    I'll have to agree with some of that. It's true, reviews- a lot of them are not really all that good. I still think pushing oneself with one model one finds at certain point one likes may be better for photography but I can see with ever changing technology why check out something new.
    Well, I agree with this.


    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    I honestly don't see why you picked an A7 if you didn't like the A7R. I guess the AF but was that the reason? (genuinely curious).
    I REALLY disliked the double clang shutter on the A7r, I actually bought it with the intention of using Leica M and R lenses handheld, and that first clang made it quite impossible without using 3x shutter speed. Added to which most of the M lenses wider than 50mm simply didn't work properly (colour shift, smudgy corners). So it was a non-starter

    The A7 has an electronic first curtain - and anyway I don't want to use M and R lenses on it - so, no, not the AF, the electronic first curtain. If I'm using it as a standard mirror less I don't need the extra resolution either.

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    If you ask me if Aperture is that key I would give a good workout of some extreme files you would like to see or expect a certain result with the XT1 on Aperture, and then decide there. I think if you would like to use Aperture mainly, maybe the EM-1 is better.

    Out of curiosity, what is not "making it" for you in m43rs that you are questioning it?
    I will decide in Aperture - as I said before, I was hoping that the legendary jpg engine on the Fuji would do the trick until RAW support comes - which turns out to be only partly true, but at least I can use Iridient to produce .tiffs where necessary.

    I'm not going to criticise µ43 - it's just that after 2 years shooting with it and the Leica it's a good time to check out what the competition has to offer. Ergonomically I already know the X-T1 is much more to my taste (I just like to have dials which I can see).

    But I think ergonomics is pretty subjective - I realise that different people use cameras so differently that it's hard to make general statements

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    I understand that part but picture this. Not so long ago you seemed pretty happy- er. no, ecstatic with the Em-1. What changed? Did the camera become worse? I propose that the amount of time spent researching a possible "greener field" takes away from learning more photography.
    As I say - just a good time to take stock - I still think the EM1 is great - and especially that lovely 12-40 zoom.
    I hear what you say about "greener field" but sometimes having something different to work with encourages you to step outside your safety zone - one could argue the point forever in both directions. Right now I'm putting some effort into getting into the right field (which may be the one I've been in for the last two years).

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    To come forward with a disclosure- I am also thinking long and hard at the moment what's next, because I am realizing that I really am not using cameras that at this point do not have either a leaf shutter or an electronic shutter option. This is why I knew the XT1 wasn't for me- but if I was shooting a wedding a month (at least) that's most likely what I would pick up.

    Either that or a great Pentax K-5ii which is now ridiculously cheap here ($650 USD? For a semi pro DSLR with weather sealing? Wow).

    - Ricardo
    Ah yes, the Pentax - I loved my K5 - but I couldn't get a decent zoom to go with it (maybe I was unlucky). Anyway, I don't want to go back to a dSLR, however good it is.

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi View Post
    I see them at the base of the tree, mainly, and some on the grass. But as I said is not a big deal to control them.
    HI There Ario - I know what you mean, I thought I pretty much got rid of it with my settings - with a little less sharpening and a little more Chromadaptiv.

    all the best

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    Hi There David
    I really want to make the right decision about which mirrorless system to use, but the only way to do this is to get to grips with each of them. So I have an A7, an E-M1 and the Fuji - I won't finally decide until the Weather resistant Fuji lenses appear, but there isn't much point in giving up too soon.

    I have the kit lens with each - and I certainly have good versions of the Sony and Olympus lenses - I haven't really tested the Fuji lens yet, but if the kit needs to go back because of the non-buttons, then I suppose the lens will be changed as well.

    Personally this thread has been really useful, if time consuming. I tried Photo Ninja (don't like the software or the results) and also Iridient - which I think is a lovely simple and intuitive program. Hopefully it will have helped others as well.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    OK,

    I was finally able to get Capture One to open the file, thanks to Graham's help.

    All that has to be done is edit out the camera name file in exif info. The only tool I could find is Exiftool. Note this is a command line in mac (not my specialty) and there is GUI for windows. It took a few tries to get the GUI to work, (all my problems) and it does the trick.

    Two crops, are attached. Pretty much the same parts of the image I have worked. I did a bit more sharpening in Capture One (7.2) and then followed up with Focus Magic. Only a bit in this case as Capture One appears to render the grass blades better.

    Note also the 2nd attachment showing the tree buds against the blue sky, here Capture One runs rings around LR. LR can't seem to get the tree bud/sky demarcation figured out and thus it renders this area a bit soft. Capture One did much better.

    Overall, on this image I say Capture One did the best overall job, but to me the key is follow up deconvolution sharpening with Focus Magic. I use this on all my files now including Phase One.

    I did not alter the color/sat/shadow/highlight etc. on any of my tests as I was only interested to see how the grass would look.

    Paul C.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul2660 View Post
    OK,

    I was finally able to get Capture One to open the file, thanks to Graham's help.

    All that has to be done is edit out the camera name file in exif info. The only tool I could find is Exiftool. Note this is a command line in mac (not my specialty) and there is GUI for windows. It took a few tries to get the GUI to work, (all my problems) and it does the trick.

    Two crops, are attached. Pretty much the same parts of the image I have worked. I did a bit more sharpening in Capture One (7.2) and then followed up with Focus Magic. Only a bit in this case as Capture One appears to render the grass blades better.

    Note also the 2nd attachment showing the tree buds against the blue sky, here Capture One runs rings around LR. LR can't seem to get the tree bud/sky demarcation figured out and thus it renders this area a bit soft. Capture One did much better.

    Overall, on this image I say Capture One did the best overall job, but to me the key is follow up deconvolution sharpening with Focus Magic. I use this on all my files now including Phase One.

    I did not alter the color/sat/shadow/highlight etc. on any of my tests as I was only interested to see how the grass would look.

    Paul C.
    HI Paul
    I think that looks great . . . . it's clearly possible to do a good job - Lets hope that Apple come up with the goods as well!

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    Senior Member Ario Arioldi's Avatar
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Jono, the Apple support to the X-Trans files is already in my opinion pretty good, on the same league as Capture One and Iridient. I have just done a very quick test on a file from the XT-1 (after correcting with exiftool to be seen as an X100s file) and I can confirm what i was expecting. May be with the next release of Aperture 4 we will get an even better support.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    I think Jono may be referring to lack of support for the XT1 in Aperture. This is making me wait too.

    Edit, Ario, I appear to have misread what you wrote, I did not absorb the fact you had used exiftool, some kind of word blindness here today, must be the meds I am on (seriously)...
    Last edited by Braeside; 28th February 2014 at 09:35.
    David Anderson

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post

    Mirrorless is a godsend for me, because it allows me to do this with something small and perfectly formed. However, I want to know what's best for me, and I'm questioning whether µ43 (which I've been using since the EM5 arrived) is still the right answer. First I tried an A7r (didn't like it and returned it). Now I have an A7, an E-M1 and the X-T1, - I want to know which is the best way forward, and I can't find that out from reviews.

    At some point over the next month or so I'll make a decision on what I'm going to use (and write it up), then I'll sell everything else - these days with ebay it's much cheaper and more satisfactory to buy a camera and keep it for a couple of months than it is to rent.

    This way I can work out whether I can fit the camera into my Aperture workflow (this is not negotiable incidentally - I've learned that lesson at least). I can work out how to process the files for me, what's good and what's bad - other people's files just don't do it.

    Ergonomics are also very personal and extremely important.
    + infinity

    Almost identical, though shooting needs vary a bit (I need to grab video for projects). Ergos cannot be sorted out via the inter webs. For instance, I was ok with my EM5, but didn't really get along with the EM1. Go figure...

    As for why switch it up, for me the A7(r) was an eye-opener and game changer. And one change often leads to others. Then I'll settle down for awhile. Then something will change later on. This isn't like 40 years ago when a body was pretty much a body. Moore's law is holding in cameras as well as chips.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post

    Personally I Actually find it quite stimulating to try out different solutions, but, to be honest I'm getting a bit tired of it at the moment and would like to settle for a mirrorless system to go with my Leica M and Ricoh GR (pocket cam). But anyway, one of the things I do is test cameras! It's kind of good to keep up with what everyone is doing.

    ---


    As I say - just a good time to take stock - I still think the EM1 is great - and especially that lovely 12-40 zoom.
    I hear what you say about "greener field" but sometimes having something different to work with encourages you to step outside your safety zone - one could argue the point forever in both directions. Right now I'm putting some effort into getting into the right field (which may be the one I've been in for the last two years).
    The A7r has forced me to change the way I shoot - for the better. I pay more attention instead of spraying and praying. Could I have done it without the camera? Sure, but I'm human. Humans often need to be prodded or see an advantage on the other side to change. The files of the A7r have done that. I'm hoping that the files of the XT1 do that as they'll be different tools for different needs/wants.
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    I feel compelled to chime in on the usefulness of Jono's original question and the value I am getting out of this thread. As I am in pretty much the same situation Jono described (currently with m4/3 system, but fell in love with the x-t1 ergonomics).

    This thread has been really useful for me as I had been under the impression that the watercolor effect had been mostly 'resolved', and it was useful to hear from another's perspective that there still might be issues as well as then seeing the responses as to how to work with what is still there and how to get the most out of the sensor.

    I guess I would add that I am lukewarm to the EM-1 as opposed to my EM-5 and that I needed a second body. Will getting the X-t1 make me a better photographer? Nope. Does it get out of my way more than anything I have used yet? That's what I am betting on, both with my experiences of renting various x cameras recently and with what it felt like when I spent an hour or so with it at the store.



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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi View Post
    Jono, the Apple support to the X-Trans files is already in my opinion pretty good, on the same league as Capture One and Iridient. I have just done a very quick test on a file from the XT-1 (after correcting with exiftool to be seen as an X100s file) and I can confirm what i was expecting. May be with the next release of Aperture 4 we will get an even better support.
    Hi There Ario
    how to you use exiftool to change the exif .. . . and what is the exact name of the X100s? I'd like to try!

    I've installed exiftools on the mac, but I can't work out which tag to change.Perhaps you could give an example of something to type into terminal which will change the Camera to X100s for all the RAF files in a folder

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post

    I honestly don't see why you picked an A7 if you didn't like the A7R. I guess the AF but was that the reason? (genuinely curious). If you ask me if Aperture is that key I would give a good workout of some extreme files you would like to see or expect a certain result with the XT1 on Aperture, and then decide there. I think if you would like to use Aperture mainly, maybe the EM-1 is better.

    Out of curiosity, what is not "making it" for you in m43rs that you are questioning it?
    I went the other direction - had the A7 first, switched to the A7r. In my case I wanted more pixels to work with. That being said, they handle differently due to the shutter. I prefer shooting the A7, but I prefer the files out of the A7r - so I put up with it. I can totally understand someone not wanting to go that direction.

    I've slid out of u4/3 except for a GH3 and Panny zoom lens pair that I use for video work. If you work with the A7r files back to back with one from u4/3 - well, for many that would indicate which wasn't "making it." Of course it is a tradeoff and I need to shoot my A7r at higher shutter speeds and generally pay attention more. No free lunch...

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi View Post
    I see them at the base of the tree, mainly, and some on the grass. But as I said is not a big deal to control them.
    Ok, let me ask the question a bit differently - do you see those artifacts in the crop I posted?

    - Ricardo

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    Actually Ricardo - this is a real misrepresentation of how I started the post, which was like this:



    Nothing about returning the camera, nothing alarmist, an admission that I didn't know the right settings and asking for help.
    Ok, I welcome the correction, you are right on how it started. But it really went to the other context really fast, so on that end I think the point I made stands. But thanks for pointing out it wasn't the first post, I was not my intention to mis represent that.

    But yes, the thread went to the other place fast.



    Last wedding I shot was mostly with the 50 Apo Summicron . . . no moire - sharp - indeed.
    What this means i the aperture you are shooting at or the movement is working a bit as an AA filter. IF you are shooting a lot of cloth particular grid on an AA less bayer you will see occasional moire. So the issue is not that you may see it on every shot, but that when shooting for a client you need to make sure it doesn't show up.

    But whether the aperture used is not the sharpest or some camera movement makes the AA not happen, that works. I can say right now I have seen it occasionally on the Ricoh GR when shooting in color, and it's pretty mathematical why it happens, so if it didn't happen much for you and the Leica the lens may be sharp but maybe not sharp enough at the apertures used, or the subjects you shot were not that prone to it.

    I'll post some of the shots I have seen it with the Ricoh later.

    Actually, I think it's really tough in LightRoom - I said Aperture - which seems to do a much better job




    I'm sorry - I STILL disagree - I understand all about weddings and workflow (which is why Aperture is non-negotiable incidentally) - I certainly don't have to look at every shot *just in case*
    Then read what I said above, but that's fine. Anyhow, the Xtrans is more resilient to color moire everything else being equal.


    Aperture seems to be much more 'hands off' in terms of processing, I do agree about DR and sharpness (and noise reduction too) - there are better solutions for all of these, but if I can get a decent A2+print for landscapes then that's okay for me.
    Well I only mention it because one of the nice things about Xtrans is that resolution (otherwise why bother removing the AA) and the dynamic range.

    I realise that it wasn't *only* directed at me, but it turns on a lot of people, and as you say - it's not your money

    Personally I Actually find it quite stimulating to try out different solutions, but, to be honest I'm getting a bit tired of it at the moment and would like to settle for a mirrorless system to go with my Leica M and Ricoh GR (pocket cam). But anyway, one of the things I do is test cameras! It's kind of good to keep up with what everyone is doing.
    Many consumerist purchase things in our current society "turns on" a lot of people, yet it often looks more like an addiction. You mention getting out of the comfort zone and trying new things but frankly, I look at the photography history of the groups that are constantly upgrading because "they now found the system for their needs" and for the vast majority of them I see the same level- sometimes worse- of photography.

    But yeah, if someone wants to test cameras, you certainly need to "catch 'em all" like pokemons :-) I mean if that's what you really want to do I can see it. Just seems to me some are caught in the illusion they are really pursuing photography. There's nothing wrong with being a collector or a camera tester, I just think it's good to be aware that these are not photography and not think that one is pursuing the art of photography that taking a 2nd or 3rd priority.

    I REALLY disliked the double clang shutter on the A7r, I actually bought it with the intention of using Leica M and R lenses handheld, and that first clang made it quite impossible without using 3x shutter speed. Added to which most of the M lenses wider than 50mm simply didn't work properly (colour shift, smudgy corners). So it was a non-starter

    The A7 has an electronic first curtain - and anyway I don't want to use M and R lenses on it - so, no, not the AF, the electronic first curtain. If I'm using it as a standard mirror less I don't need the extra resolution either.
    I'll admit to you the shutter sound even on the A7 was a big turn off for me. But then I was just checking it out- I didn't intend to buy one.

    One thing I found out that I had missed is that Sony is still using a lossy RAW format with these cameras. I honestly don't get why they are doing that.

    []

    I'm not going to criticise µ43 - it's just that after 2 years shooting with it and the Leica it's a good time to check out what the competition has to offer. Ergonomically I already know the X-T1 is much more to my taste (I just like to have dials which I can see).

    But I think ergonomics is pretty subjective - I realise that different people use cameras so differently that it's hard to make general statements
    Dunno then. Seems like you already have what you really needed/wanted (u43 + Leica). Anyhow just what it looks like to me.


    As I say - just a good time to take stock - I still think the EM1 is great - and especially that lovely 12-40 zoom.
    I hear what you say about "greener field" but sometimes having something different to work with encourages you to step outside your safety zone - one could argue the point forever in both directions. Right now I'm putting some effort into getting into the right field (which may be the one I've been in for the last two years).
    Well I can only go from my experience and what other professional photographers I have come in contact with advice. The only professional photographers I have seen that advice buying many cameras are those who are sponsored by the camera companies :-)


    Ah yes, the Pentax - I loved my K5 - but I couldn't get a decent zoom to go with it (maybe I was unlucky). Anyway, I don't want to go back to a dSLR, however good it is.
    Yes, apparently you were :-) Neither Jim nor me have had that problem, though there are certainly some lenses on the Pentax lineup that can be ignored. I do not want a DSLR as my main camera either but for shooting a wedding, I don't mind a DSLR, particularly a K-5 since it's so quiet in shutter and small already. It can be even better still with the OVF and the K-5ii ability to focus in -3 EV.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Hi Jono,

    just because of my interest, did you finally exchange the XT1 due to failure or did everything sort out instead?

    Thanks

    Peter

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    I, too, had a look at the two RAWs in Photo Ninja and found almost exactly the same as Paul Caldwell. The grass in the first image is perfectly sharp in the foreground area and the remainder in not fully in the field of focus. In the second image there is a hint of double imaging which is almost certainly the 18-55 IS up to its tricks but the focus is anyway clearly not on the foreground where the grass is. Ideally you should use MF and switch off image stabilisation whenever possible and I only blame myself when I do neither (which is most of the time ) and an image isn't quite focussed correctly. No AF or IS system is fully reliable though X-E1 speed aside in my case, I don't think that Fuji is significantly worse than others I have used.

    My conclusion is the same as its been throughout the four + happy months I've been with the FujiX system, namely that the green smudging is simply a myth at the sensor level. You can get it a bit with JPEGS (JPEGs smudge with every camera I've ever used which is one reason for not using JPEGs when detail is important) but I suspect the worst problem is with early versions of LR. If Carl's post really is typical then no wonder many were put off TransX!

    David

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    Many consumerist purchase things in our current society "turns on" a lot of people, yet it often looks more like an addiction. You mention getting out of the comfort zone and trying new things but frankly, I look at the photography history of the groups that are constantly upgrading because "they now found the system for their needs" and for the vast majority of them I see the same level- sometimes worse- of photography.

    But yeah, if someone wants to test cameras, you certainly need to "catch 'em all" like pokemons :-) I mean if that's what you really want to do I can see it. Just seems to me some are caught in the illusion they are really pursuing photography. There's nothing wrong with being a collector or a camera tester, I just think it's good to be aware that these are not photography and not think that one is pursuing the art of photography that taking a 2nd or 3rd priority.

    Well I can only go from my experience and what other professional photographers I have come in contact with advice. The only professional photographers I have seen that advice buying many cameras are those who are sponsored by the camera companies :-)
    With digital, frankly "photography" now means a lot of different things. And "professional" is a fuzzy term, and one that often is thrown around in a pejorative manner. I certainly don't get paid only for shooting pictures - but I do end up as de facto "staff photographer" and videographer. Does that make me "professional?"

    As for chasing new gear, a week after buying the A7 I ended up having theverge.com run four of my photos online. Coincidence? Luck? Rationalization? Maybe. I'd like to think that it was a combination of having good gear and being inspired by the toys enough to concentrate a bit more on the craft. One could argue that I should have the self-discipline to do that with any piece of kit, but humans often don't work that way.

    Photography (and videography) is a mix of art and science. With digital, the science part has taken on new proportions, so in some sense it isn't surprising that there is more churn. It is odd because you have a relatively old art (photography) combined with relatively new technology (digital). That counterpoint makes for some odd situations and combinations. Good glass is good glass - except when it isn't with a particular sensor and processor. And the best hardware now can be left wanting due to computer code. That dynamic didn't exist in the film days, though one could argue that film formulations and developing had some aspects of that. But we now have orders of magnitude more choices and complexity at our fingertips. And that will be confusing for many.

    Others just like to check out new toys. GAS is a real thing. For some it is the only thing and that's...OK. I get it. My #1 passion is playing music and I see it all the time with music gear. And have GAS myself. I've got way more in bass guitars than I do in camera gear. But I also play over 100 gigs a year in five different bands, just released and album, and am working on the next one. So I figure I've earned my instruments. That said, I don't begrudge anyone who buys nice stuff yet isn't a "pro." Some of my students are in that category. Their money, their choices. And to their credit, one reason they're taking lessons is to get better. I view getdpi as one of my places to "get lessons" on the art of photography as well as some of the science. Since I'm knee-deep in tech for my day job I worry less about that end of my expertise. But I can always learn new tricks and get a new perspective. And if new gear leads me to those places - then it was worth the money.
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    Hi There Ario
    how to you use exiftool to change the exif .. . . and what is the exact name of the X100s? I'd like to try!

    I've installed exiftools on the mac, but I can't work out which tag to change.Perhaps you could give an example of something to type into terminal which will change the Camera to X100s for all the RAF files in a folder
    Hi Jono, just type into the terminal the following:

    exiftool -ext RAF -Model='X100s' <dir>
    replace <dir> with the path of the folder where you have the files to be converted (or simply drag and drop the folder in replacement of <dir>.
    You will have something like this:
    iMac-di-Ario-Arioldi:~ arioarioldi$ exiftool -ext RAF -Model='X100s' /Users/arioarioldi/Desktop/untitled\ folder
    1 directories scanned
    1 image files updated
    iMac-di-Ario-Arioldi:~ arioarioldi$
    The original file will not be cancelled but just renamed for future use.
    Ario
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Hi Ricardo
    I'm very well aware of moire and weddings - and also with lots of different cameras - to say that the 50 AA 'cron is acting as an AA filter is . . . erm - well, like saying that the Zeiss Otus acts as an AA filter.

    Whatever - I've explained some of my reasons - you obviously disagree with them, but they are my motives nevertheless . Not useful for me to go on clarifying and you to go on disagreeing.

    What I will say is that I consider 'being interested in kit' to be an honourable occupation, but quite a different one from 'being a good photographer' which is another honourable occupation. They aren't however, mutually exclusive.

    All the best

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Some of the falloff on the grass in the distance I believe is just due to the 16mp resolution and the fact that it's a pretty much solid color. Thus creating a lot color interpolation in one place even though the Fuji sensor is laid out a bit differently. The distant trees and power lines look fine to me and they much be 1/2 a mile out.

    I see this effect even with Phase One at times.

    The 18-55 is a good lens (all rounder), the 14mm might have done just a bit better? but I find that my 14mm is softer at ranges of F2.8 to F6.3 than my 18-55.

    Paul C
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by ptomsu View Post
    Hi Jono,

    just because of my interest, did you finally exchange the XT1 due to failure or did everything sort out instead?

    Thanks

    Peter
    Hi Peter
    Well, I've established with the dealer that the problem is there, and he is going to replace the camera . . . when he can get one from Fuji - until then I'll keep this one - it works fine, but only in matrix metering, and without AE and AF lock buttons - a hardship, but better than nothing.

    All the best

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post

    What I will say is that I consider 'being interested in kit' to be an honourable occupation, but quite a different one from 'being a good photographer' which is another honourable occupation. They aren't however, mutually exclusive.

    All the best
    Jono, that's crazy talk. We all know that anyone who bought a camera newer than the one that I currently own is just a gear junkie. And anyone who still has the model prior to the one I own is a luddite.
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi View Post
    Hi Jono, just type into the terminal the following:

    exiftool -ext RAF -Model='X100s' <dir>
    replace <dir> with the path of the folder where you have the files to be converted (or simply drag and drop the folder in replacement of <dir>.
    You will have something like this:
    iMac-di-Ario-Arioldi:~ arioarioldi$ exiftool -ext RAF -Model='X100s' /Users/arioarioldi/Desktop/untitled\ folder
    1 directories scanned
    1 image files updated
    iMac-di-Ario-Arioldi:~ arioarioldi$
    The original file will not be cancelled but just renamed for future use.
    Just a thought, and I'm not sure that it really makes any difference, but I'd be inclined to use X-E2 as the model vs X100s since it has the newer sensor in a similar camera series.

    Also, there are GUIs available for both windows and Mac.

    pyexiftoolgui is the one for the Mac, although once you know the command line for mass conversions it's a bit redundant. It does display ALL of the exif info though which is very useful.
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

    As Oscar Wilde said, "my tastes are simple, I only like the best"
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi View Post
    Hi Jono, just type into the terminal the following:

    exiftool -ext RAF -Model='X100s' <dir>
    Fantatic Ario - I couldn't work out the tag name or the exact syntax. Works like a charm - excellent.
    Thank you

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by GrahamWelland View Post
    Just a thought, and I'm not sure that it really makes any difference, but I'd be inclined to use X-E2 as the model vs X100s since it has the newer sensor in a similar camera series.

    Also, there are GUIs available for both windows and Mac.

    pyexiftoolgui is the one for the Mac, although once you know the command line for mass conversions it's a bit redundant. It does display ALL of the exif info though which is very useful.
    Hi Graham
    Unfortunately Aperture doesn't yet support the X-E2 yet either - so it doesn't help that much.
    I looked at one or two GUIs, but they seemed even more odd. This is fine - it seems to be applying all the lens corrections for better or for worse!

    All the best

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by nostatic View Post
    Jono, that's crazy talk. We all know that anyone who bought a camera newer than the one that I currently own is just a gear junkie. And anyone who still has the model prior to the one I own is a luddite.
    For the record - that's not what I said ;-)

    Ricardo

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    Hi Ricardo
    I'm very well aware of moire and weddings - and also with lots of different cameras - to say that the 50 AA 'cron is acting as an AA filter is . . . erm - well, like saying that the Zeiss Otus acts as an AA filter.
    Well ok. I haven't shot with the Leica but let me know what you think of the Ricoh GR then because I am seeing it.

    I still think fuji made the right choice in that one.

    And yeah we disagree in some things but actually agree on some others. Hope you can make your mind about the xt1 for your workflow.

    - Ricardo

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    For the record - that's not what I said ;-)

    Ricardo
    I take things to the illogical extreme. It is a gift I have. Just ask my ex-wives
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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by nostatic View Post
    With digital, frankly "photography" now means a lot of different things. And "professional" is a fuzzy term, and one that often is thrown around in a pejorative manner. I certainly don't get paid only for shooting pictures - but I do end up as de facto "staff photographer" and videographer. Does that make me "professional?"
    Sorry, I missed this. But let me clarify what I am talking about there- I am talking about photographers with over 30 years of experience with big clients and/or photographers with a bachelor of arts or master degree in photography from CalArts (which is like saying a bit like "MIT" in engineering here in the USA). Some of them qualified to teach (and do so) the art of photography and they do work in photography.

    People who made it their #1 profession and most of them studied it with a degree and exercise it.
    Hope that made that part more clear :-) And I am not counting the many world acclaimed photographers that have also commented accordingly.

    As for chasing new gear, a week after buying the A7 I ended up having theverge.com run four of my photos online. Coincidence? Luck? Rationalization? Maybe. I'd like to think that it was a combination of having good gear and being inspired by the toys enough to concentrate a bit more on the craft. One could argue that I should have the self-discipline to do that with any piece of kit, but humans often don't work that way.

    Photography (and videography) is a mix of art and science. With digital, the science part has taken on new proportions, so in some sense it isn't surprising that there is more churn. It is odd because you have a relatively old art (photography) combined with relatively new technology (digital). That counterpoint makes for some odd situations and combinations. Good glass is good glass - except when it isn't with a particular sensor and processor. And the best hardware now can be left wanting due to computer code. That dynamic didn't exist in the film days, though one could argue that film formulations and developing had some aspects of that. But we now have orders of magnitude more choices and complexity at our fingertips. And that will be confusing for many.
    The tools may be made by science but photography itself as the art is not. At least not in the bigger % of any mix. It may have some but not the mix in the quantities implied. Simple case- why is it that most of the accomplished photographers like Andreas Feininger makes the point the camera doesn't matter? Why did Ansel Adams when asked about which lens is sharper and what not replied pretty much which "all contemporary lenses are more than good enough" (paraphrased)?

    The "good glass is good glass" shows part of the problem - there are photographers who have used a plastic Holga for a job, because for a particular project gives a certain look. It's pretty bad glass :-) plastic and all with leaks but it works for something they were going for.

    Others just like to check out new toys. GAS is a real thing. For some it is the only thing and that's...OK. I get it. My #1 passion is playing music and I see it all the time with music gear. And have GAS myself. I've got way more in bass guitars than I do in camera gear. But I also play over 100 gigs a year in five different bands, just released and album, and am working on the next one. So I figure I've earned my instruments. That said, I don't begrudge anyone who buys nice stuff yet isn't a "pro." Some of my students are in that category. Their money, their choices. And to their credit, one reason they're taking lessons is to get better. I view getdpi as one of my places to "get lessons" on the art of photography as well as some of the science. Since I'm knee-deep in tech for my day job I worry less about that end of my expertise. But I can always learn new tricks and get a new perspective. And if new gear leads me to those places - then it was worth the money.
    Anyway I just wanted to comment on the first point. Truth is I have no right to tell anyone what to do with their money. And of course GAS is real- it's a type of addiction. I certainly don't consider it a virtue :-)

    Believe it or not (as ridiculous as this may sound) I am trying to help when I make those comments I made - because it's kind of sad to see a group of people who could to me be doing better just upgrading to the next latest great thing and their photography with some rare counted exceptions seems stuck at the same level it was with the previous camera.

    Because picture this- working within constraints, with limitations is what gets the art flow going. More and more options is just bad. There's even research now that backs this up a bit. It's knowing a particular tool and working it to its edge what gives you a "grammar" if you will to write a particular poetry with a certainly style. In the end it's up to the writer of course.

    But again, I'll promise to shut up on this. I really mean well when I make those comments even if I may come across as a bit confrontational.

    Sorry everyone :-)

    - Ricardo
    Last edited by raist3d; 28th February 2014 at 23:07.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by raist3d View Post
    Sorry, I missed this. But let me clarify what I am talking about there- I am talking about photographers with over 30 years of experience with big clients and/or photographers with a bachelor of arts or master degree in photography from CalArts (which is like saying a bit like "MIT" in engineering here in the USA). Some of them qualified to teach (and do so) the art of photography and they do work in photography.
    Umm, my wife is faculty at CalArts. Since my phd is from Caltech, I consider the MIT reference a bit of an insult to CalArts

    Trying to save "addicts" from themselves is a noble cause, but one that also ends up making you sound somewhat patronizing in the process. As for your other points, everyone has their own opinion. For example I see plenty of "Jaco only needed 4-strings" comments when people discuss extended range instruments. imho the pursuit of most anything these days is a mix of art and science. Certainly the case in music (my night job), and in digital media (my day job). How the percentages break down is up to the individual.

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    Re: Fuji X-T1 - Greens and jpg files - help please?

    Quote Originally Posted by nostatic View Post
    Umm, my wife is faculty at CalArts. Since my phd is from Caltech, I consider the MIT reference a bit of an insult to CalArts
    LOL. That's awesome :-)

    Trying to save "addicts" from themselves is a noble cause, but one that also ends up making you sound somewhat patronizing in the process. As for your other points, everyone has their own opinion. For example I see plenty of "Jaco only needed 4-strings" comments when people discuss extended range instruments. imho the pursuit of most anything these days is a mix of art and science. Certainly the case in music (my night job), and in digital media (my day job). How the percentages break down is up to the individual.
    Well certainly it has individual things. What I can tell you is that I notice better work from great photographers who seem more inclined to say the tool doesn't matter vs the other camp. Not only in the ones I can see at present time, but the ones that one can read that are considered in history world class photographers.

    Anyway, I will keep my promise, didn't mean to hijack this thread. I promise to follow up in private if you want to do so.
    It's all good.

    - Ricardo

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