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Settings on 50R for various types of shooting/lenses

algrove

Well-known member
I just received my 50R and wanted to know what settings you would recommend for shooting with a short telephoto, 63mm or 32-64 zoom and the 23mm lens. I also have the 120, 250 and 45, but since I am on the road will not have those lenses avilable for another week.

I thought of using with the 110 Zone focusing with 5x5 for a specific landscape scene along with metering set at center-weighted.

For the wide 23mm lens I have not gotten through the manual to see if any suggestions were made for that specific lens.

Any help appreciated. Thanks.
 

vjbelle

Well-known member
Lou..... I differ on some things as I also shoot the GFX on my Actus. In the beginning of the article he talks about his setting for JPG:

"This isn’t enough for me so I end up shooting large fine jpegs too just to get a decent image to review in camera. I discard the jpegs in computer."

If he's shooting both to the same card the only review he's getting is the imbedded 50% JPG in the raw as the additional JPG cannot be seen - at least not on the 50s. The only way to see the large JPG is to record it to a separate card.

I also don't use any film simulations and haven't found his settings to be of any advantage for me. I also don't fiddle with highlight or shadow and rely on the highlight/shadow flashing clipping on the recorded JPG for a true indication of any clipping.

I also set my 'shoot without lens' to 'On' for shooting with the Actus.

Can't imagine shooting the 110 handheld at any speed under 1/500..... That lens, for me, is tripod only.

Enjoy your 50r......

Victor
 

Knorp

Well-known member
So where do most of you S or R users vary from this ProPhotoNut's suggestions?
I've made two adjustments to my 50S:
- assigned 'AF-L' (AF Lock Only) to Fn4 button - remember to set the 'FOCUS MODE' selector to 'M' (manual focus) and 'SHUTTER AF' to OFF
- assigned 'ELECTRONIC LEVEL' to the Fn2 button - very useful with the 23/4 or any other UWA lens for that matter

Note: extended ISO values (50 and 25600, 51200, 102400) selectable only when 'SHUTTER TYPE' is MS or EF
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
I've made two adjustments to my 50S:

- assigned 'AF-L' (AF Lock Only) to Fn4 button - remember to set the 'FOCUS MODE' selector to 'M' (manual focus) and 'SHUTTER AF' to OFF

- assigned 'ELECTRONIC LEVEL' to the Fn2 button - very useful with the 23/4 or any other UWA lens for that matter

Note: extended ISO values (50 and 25600, 51200, 102400) selectable only when 'SHUTTER TYPE' is MS or EF

Thanks Bart. Very useful points indeed! :thumbs:

Ad 1: When I turn manually the focus ring of a native lens, the camera goes into magnified view. Splendid! BTW, AF Lock Only seemed to be the default on my 50S.

Ad2: I had switched on a straight line level and wondered how to get this much more elaborate level. Now I know. Thanks again.
 

Knorp

Well-known member
Thanks Bart. Very useful points indeed! :thumbs:

Ad 1: When I turn manually the focus ring of a native lens, the camera goes into magnified view. Splendid! BTW, AF Lock Only seemed to be the default on my 50S.

Ad2: I had switched on a straight line level and wondered how to get this much more elaborate level. Now I know. Thanks again.
Obviously, by assigning AF to the Fn4 button (f.i.), instead of default to the Shutter button, you create ‘Back button AF’. Perhaps there are other ways to achieve this, but it works for me ... :eek:
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
I will have to go back and review how my GFX 50s is set up. The main items for me are back-button AF and I also customized one of the control buttons to bring up the enhanced level (tilt plus level). I pretty much shoot everything manual.

I also enabled one of the custom buttons to enable/disable focus stack mode. Very useful for landscape work.

Regarding focus stacking, there’s a good article now over on Fuji’s web site. However, in summary:

GFX Focus Stacking

Landscape - 20 / 10 / 0
Macro - 100 / 5 / 5
Low light - 20 / 5 / 10

Step value = near / far of DoF of first image
Step 1 = 20% of DoF
Step 5 = 100% of DoF

One booboo I made recently after downloading the latest firmware was enabling 35mm mode as ON vs auto - don’t do that! I spent a week shooting 3:2 ratio images which generate cropped RAW files, not just JPG. User error but luckily with enough pixels left that it didn’t matter. Doh! :facesmack:
 

Knorp

Well-known member
I will have to go back and review how my GFX 50s is set up. The main items for me are back-button AF and I also customized one of the control buttons to bring up the enhanced level (tilt plus level). I pretty much shoot everything manual.

I also enabled one of the custom buttons to enable/disable focus stack mode. Very useful for landscape work.

Regarding focus stacking, there’s a good article now over on Fuji’s web site. However, in summary:

GFX Focus Stacking

Landscape - 20 / 10 / 0
Macro - 100 / 5 / 5
Low light - 20 / 5 / 10

Step value = near / far of DoF of first image
Step 1 = 20% of DoF
Step 5 = 100% of DoF

One booboo I made recently after downloading the latest firmware was enabling 35mm mode as ON vs auto - don’t do that! I spent a week shooting 3:2 ratio images which generate cropped RAW files, not just JPG. User error but luckily with enough pixels left that it didn’t matter. Doh! :facesmack:
Thanks, Graham. If you happen to remember where you found this 'focus stacking' Fujifilm article and could post it. TIA !

Meanwhile, I've found this Jim Kasson's blog GFX FW 3.0 focus bracketing with the 120/4 macro among other Internet articles and videos.
 

Knorp

Well-known member
I've made two adjustments to my 50S:
- assigned 'AF-L' (AF Lock Only) to Fn4 button - remember to set the 'FOCUS MODE' selector to 'M' (manual focus) and 'SHUTTER AF' to OFF
- assigned 'ELECTRONIC LEVEL' to the Fn2 button - very useful with the 23/4 or any other UWA lens for that matter

Note: extended ISO values (50 and 25600, 51200, 102400) selectable only when 'SHUTTER TYPE' is MS or EF
To obtain 'Back button AF' functionality you could also assign 'AF-ON' to f.i. the Fn4 button.
This way you don't need to switch the 'FOCUS MODE' selector to 'M' and remain using 'S' mode.
I think this could be the preferred solution.
 

algrove

Well-known member
I think the Mamiya 300/5.6 ($150) is a workable lens on the 50R with the Fotodiox adapter ($125). Cannot get the focus peaking to work on M and having peraking in bright red turned on. Must be more to it. Any suggestions?

Will try the 210 and 500 once I can get foicus peaking to work.
 

algrove

Well-known member
So I set up focus braketing at 20/10/0 on the front Fn2 button. I held Fn2 while I hit the shutter after focusing on my near point. The camera flashed green and yellow by the Q button many times. All seemed OK, but when I went to playback just one image seemed to have been taken. I assume combining the braketed images takes place manually in PS and not in camera.

What did I do wrong?
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
I focus on the near point and then trigger the focus stack. What’ll happen is that the camera will create a set of raw files that you need to combine in PS or I actually use Helicon focus.

Depending on how close the near point is and the steps out to infinity you should see a difference in the images.
 
For landscape photography, I’d skip the new focus-stacking settings. They’re useless overkill, except for long lenses.

Using the 32-64 at f8, just setting the distance to 2, 3, 5, and 10 meters allows full DOF. in my experience it’s better not to use an exposure at Infinity, because it produces a ‘crackly’ far-distance sharpness that’s alien to eye-vision. And skip the 2m setting if there’s no close foreground. Just 3 files are enough in almost all circumstances and can be processed very quickly.

Kirk
 

Knorp

Well-known member
For landscape photography, I’d skip the new focus-stacking settings. They’re useless overkill, except for long lenses.

Using the 32-64 at f8, just setting the distance to 2, 3, 5, and 10 meters allows full DOF. in my experience it’s better not to use an exposure at Infinity, because it produces a ‘crackly’ far-distance sharpness that’s alien to eye-vision. And skip the 2m setting if there’s no close foreground. Just 3 files are enough in almost all circumstances and can be processed very quickly.

Kirk
Thanks and good point, Kirk.

Still, I think this focus bracketing feature is very convenient and requires 'no fiddling' with the lens.
Of course you have to do a bit of 'research' first.

What I found based on Fujifilm's Advanced Technique article (Focus Bracketing) is this as an example:
According to my DoF calculator (CoC 0,038 mtr) set to a focus distance of 2,0 mtr for 32 mm at f/8 results in a DoF of 3,55 mtr (1,26 - 4,81 mtr).
One step moves the focus point by ±20% of that DoF. So a step size of 5 will move the focus point by ±100% or ±3,55 mtr.
With a frame count set to 4 you will end up with 4 images ranging 2,00 - 5,55 - 9,10 - 12,65 mtr.

Well that's the theory anyway ... :rolleyes:

Brgds.
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Btw you can safely set the frame count higher without concern because it’ll automatically stop once infinity is reached. That’s a nice feature as you only create as many images as necessary.
 
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