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FUJIFILM GFX 50S, 50R, 100, etc. ... Peculiarities

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Has anyone gotten useful results adapting a longer lens than the native 250mm + 1.4x? I got my Canon 400/5.6+1.4x to work, but it wasn't a great experience. I suppose a Canon 600/4 would work, but that would be extreme. Any luck with older telephoto lenses (Pentax 645, Canon FD, etc..)?Manual aperture ring would probably be necessary.

Matt
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
Thanks Peter, I don’t understand your question.
Please explain more what’s on your mind.

Upon reflection I had shot the above images in continuous shutter mode C.
That’s probably a bad idea. I get much better IQ results using S mode like this.



Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X WR TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 0.001s (1/1000), ISO 200.
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
One More Flicker! :loco:



Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 0.001s (1/1000), ISO 400.
 

Pelorus

Member
Reflections on 32 days of using and carrying the GFX 50R daily in Japan.

I don't know whether anyone will find this useful, but for what it's worth here it is.

I travelled exclusively by foot and public transport. Those who know Japan will know you inevitably walk serious urban miles every day.

I carried the 50R and the two zooms in an Ortlieb 25 litre Atrack with a FStop Small Pro ICU. the camera and lens kit weighed in at 2.6kg and the 50R with the 32-64 is just over 1.5kg. It's a real lump to carry around all day. I have large hands and I found I had to use a "finger tip" style grip to hold the camera. The camera grip is simply too small. I also had to disable the Q button otherwise I was continually activating it.

The image quality and in particular the DR is outstanding. The Fuji colour representation is made for Japan and particularly Japanese skin tones.

I used a Peak Design Leash or whatever it's called and one of their hand straps. On the Leash the camera and lens just attracted too much attention - It screamed "look at me" and in the latter part of the trip I abandoned it for the wrist strap. That worked really well except when you had to conduct a transaction - where do you put the camera? Late in the trip I added the Click or whatever it's called - the clamp that can go on your belt to hold the camera. That worked well to "holster" the camera during a transaction.

One big gripe that really shits me is the 32-64: If the lens tilts down at all whilst moving around then it "walks" out to full zoom extension very quickly. It makes the lens vulnerable to being bumped. It really, really bugged me. Fuji really need to up the friction a little. It's interesting how small things like that make a big difference.

And whilst we are on things that bug me: The lens shades are a great big PITA for a walk around camera. I abandoned the shade completely on the 32-64...in fact I'm just wondering where it is. They are just too big and clumsy. An already big lens turns into a monster. There has to be a better way.

Changing lenses is a pain. These lenses are big. I found myself needing to find a flat surface to change lenses and the whole rigmarole was a pain. I didn't change lenses as much as I'd have liked to.

Having said that I really like both these lenses but I particularly like the way the long zoom renders. I think it's spectacular.

I really like the weather resistance. I used it at various time in light and heavy rain. In heavy rain I tried to shield the camera, but I had huge confidence which seemed to be well founded.

The one time I found myself leaving the camera at home was going out for food at night. In the tiny cramped places I ate it was just too big and impractical. That meant I missed some great opportunities. I can see a baby brother joining the family ;-)

I also took with me a big Gitzo monopod and an Arca ball head. They never left my hotel room.

The Ortlieb Atrack was fantastic. I got so used to carrying it I became unaware of it - until I turned and swiped a small Japanese lady or something!! The 25 litre tucks well inside your body track. It carried the complete kit in the ICU, plus a jacket, water bottle, rail pass, umbrella, notebook.... On the first weekend I was in Japan we had torrential rain as a typhoon slid by. My "waterproof" coat was not, an umbrella was useless and the backpack was completely exposed to the torrential rain - water rain off it in sheets. I'm convinced a standard camera backpack would have let water in. I have had water into a Billingham in those circumstances - the zips and closures are the weak point. This thing was completely and utterly waterproof. The central full length zip against your back was also fantastic. A single pull on the zip and the whole contents was exposed and accessible. It was also impossible for anyone to get at whilst you had the backpack on your back.

I got off the plane last night and would happily have turned around and gone back to Japan for another month...and taken the same kit with me. I do hanker for something like an XE3 with a single prime for night carry.

My right hand and forearm are also bigger than they were a month ago. At the end of some days I was very glad to set my gear down. For me this is the limit to a walk around kit.

Anyway, that's my $.02
 

Pelorus

Member
Daily use of 50R - Postscript.

The other thing I meant to say in the post above was about operating mode. Brief context, this is my first "automated" camera since a Nikon F3!! Between times I have, like most of us, used an iPhone camera :cool: but also Leica M film cameras and MFDB.

I hate stuffing around with menu settings and camera settings. I like to set the camera and then concentrate on the scene. I'd had the camera for only a short period before I went to Japan - it's actually my wife's not mine :D

This is how I ended up setting it:

  • Turned off the Q button as a nuisance
  • RAW - no JPEG - and therefore no capacity to download single images to a device
  • No film simulation - no point with no JPEG
  • ISO on the front "speed dial"
  • Aperture automated
  • Shutter speed on the rear speed dial
  • Histo, focus distance, EV etc all in the EVF and on the LCD
  • Image briefly shown after taking it
  • Horizontal level tool shown in the EVF
  • AF on the smallest area
  • Exposure Comp permanently on -1EV

That was it. I tended to set ISO for the circumstances - that is so I could get a decent shutter speed whilst getting the apertures I wanted. What tended to happen was that I'd aim for F8-16 and a minimum of 1/100s with the 32-64. If I wanted to isolate the subject I'd hold shutter speed and run the ISO down to get wider apertures, and if I wanted to get motion in the shot I'd run the ISO and the SS down. I found it hard to get a really steady shot at the beginning without quite high shutter speeds with the short zoom. Later that improved.

The long zoom it's totally easy to get sharp shots with slow shutter speeds because of the OIS. I like the long zoom a lot.

This style of shooting might not suit the purists but I found it removed most of the distractions and made life simple.

My remaining $0.01
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
:thumbup: :worthless: :salute:

Thanks for sharing. Interesting approach to the 50R.

As a left-eye dominant vision person I never considered the 50R.
The tilt-adapted EVF made my decision easy for the 50S.
All my cameras have a battery grip with a Peak Design clutch on them.
The extra bulk doesn’t bother me even when walking around.

The 2 lenses with OIS that I have - GF120 and GF250 - make it easy to get sharp images handheld.

The GF23 lens is probably most impressive IMHO.
For walking around I have used the GF23, 45, 32-64, 110, 120, and 250.
Most convenient of my lenses for that is the GF45 that is also incredibly sharp.

I find shooting the camera in M and S mode fine.
C node sucks shockingly for multiple shots even for EFCS.

Focus tracking/stacking of landscapes is a challenge for even slightly windy conditions with grass, leaves in the frame.

Overall my GFX 50S system is a joy to use.



Fuji GFX 50S + Noct-NIKKOR 58/1.2
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
Following up a bit on

If we compare a
Sony A9, 5.90 µm + 400 mm lens with a
Fuji 50S, 5.31 µm + 1.4x TC + 250 mm lens we find
(400/350) * (5.31/5.90) = 1.03, so about 3% more detail or resolution for this A9 system.
we compare

• Fuji 50S, 5.31 µm + 1.4x TC + 250 mm lens, FL = 350 mm
• Sony A9, 5.90 µm + FE 100-400 mm lens, FL = 100-400 mm

for two scenarios, namely

• for which FL of the Sony lens do we get the same FoV
• for which FL of the Sony lens do we get the same linear resolution.

In this 50S image I have shortened the vertical image length so that we have an aspect ratio of 2:3.



Fuji GFX 50S + GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4x TC @ FL=350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/8, 1/18 s, ISO 100 with 2:3 aspect ratio.

To end up with the same FoV, we apply a crop factor of 0.79 to go from mMF to FF and end up with this image.



Sony ILCE-9 + FE 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 GM OSS @ FL=279 mm (279 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 1/40 s, ISO 100.

Of course the above 2 images don't have the same linear resolution.

In order to achieve this we have to zoom in with the Sony system and will cover a much smaller FoV, ie a smaller section of the 50S image. According to our original computation cited above, an FL=400 mm should give approximately the same linear resolution, about 3% better.



Sony ILCE-9 + FE 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 GM OSS @ FL=400 mm (400 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 1/40 s, ISO 100.

Next we compare the same size crop of the first and last image above. That should give us pretty much the same linear resolution, give or take a few %. :LOL:



Fuji GFX 50S + GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4x TC @ FL=350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/8, 1/18 s, ISO 100. Crop 2528x2528.



Sony ILCE-9 + FE 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 GM OSS @ FL=400 mm (400 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 1/40 s, ISO 100. Crop 2528x2528.

q.e.d. :thumbs: :salute:
 

tsjanik

Well-known member
GFX 50R with a 50mm f1.4 Super Takumar from the early 1960s. The lens is somewhat legendary and often has a slight yellow tint from radioactive thorium used in the glass. Grass at f1.4.
 

Attachments

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
Bushtits are back!
The Bushtits always appear in a small group of about 8 tp 15 individuals. I noticed them recently hurrying through the trees foraging. A single Bushtit seems constantly on the move, which makes it pretty hard to take a picture. I know from previous winters they like this particular fatty bird feed. So here we go! :thumbs:











Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X WR TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 0.002s (1/500), ISO 2500.
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
:grin: :salute:



Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X WR TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 0.002s (1/500), ISO 4000.
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
Processed with Capture One 20 :shocked: :facesmack: :LOL:


Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X WR TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 0.002s (1/500), ISO 800.
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
and...what did you think of it? Are you running Catalina? Is it stable?:)
Thanks. I have Capture One 20 running on Catalina and Mojave, the latter being my main system so that I can continue to use CS6 and Nik. :thumbs:

They changed the UI a bit. Also I have to find out to what degree they improved their noise reduction algorithm. :grin:

So far, so good! :clap:
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member


Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X WR TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 0.002s (1/500), ISO 6400.
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
Cute looking Bushtits



Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X WR TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6,1/1000 s, ISO 100, showing a quarter of the image.

In the past I have used ball and gimbal heads on tripods. I always felt ball heads were pretty much impossible to adjust precisely. The problem I experienced with gimbal heads were minute adjustments. Couldn't be done by me quickly. As soon as I loosened the horizontal lock, the gimbal would jitter around due to my inadvertent small muscle movements. There got to be a better option. :banghead:

I found that in a Manfrotto 504HD Video Head on a Robus RC-5570 Vantage Series 3 Carbon Fiber Tripod with 75mm Half Ball. :thumbs:

I used this support for the above image. :clap:
 

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
My count: 18 Bushtits ! :shocked: :clap:



Fuji GFX 50S + Fujinon GF250mm F4 R LM OIS WR + 1.4X WR TC @ 350 mm (277 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 1/1000 s, ISO 125.
 
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