The X-Pro3

[Shashin]

I'd be interested in feedback on that lens...now that we've stumped our money.

I have the 23mm f/2 lens, not the 35mm, so I can't speak directly to the quality. However, the 23mm is one of my most used lenses (I really like the 50mm f/2 as well). It is a good all round lens for the X Pro2. It is weak at the minimum focus distance when at f/2, but works really well stopped down. At other distances, I find it a good lens regardless of the aperture. The 35mm is shorter than the 23mm, so it will be more portable, but probably not pocketable. Or no more pocketable than a Leica M, which is a similar size.

But this will be more portable than your GFX: my other camera is a Pentax 645D and so I looked for something that I could carry and shoot more frequently. I found the Fuji X Pros a great travel camera, particularly when the purpose of the travel is not photography, but has some room for photography. It feels like a real camera, if you know what i mean. And a three-lens kit is remarkably small, at least three-prime lens kit (I did spec out a Sony 24MP mirrorless when I was looking at the XP2, but that was not only more expensive, it was also heavier and larger, mostly to do with the lenses).

The X Pro with a single prime is a lot of fun to use.

 

[raist3d]

I like his reviews, but although he's not a hipster, he does seem kind of pretentious

I honestly sort of can't stand his reviews with the approach. It's like this very deep serious personal tragic-drama thing.

- Ricardo

 

[Pelorus]

Well, the Eagle has landed. The dealer told me yesterday that it would be January not 21 December as promised. I thought about that for a little and rang Fuji customer service and asked what delivery status for Dura Black was. They asked who the dealer was and looked up various things and said: "late December"....and that could mean 2 days or 10 they said.

At midday the dealer rang and said "it's here". It transpires that a sole Dura Black had arrived from Fuji this morning

The first thing I can say is the Dura finish is an absolute grease magnet. My hands were freshly washed and still left marks all over it. It looks really grotty, really quickly.

The camera is beaut though. There are a couple of differences to how the GFX 50R and the Xpro 3 handle things like command dial setup. Once I had that sorted I found, what I think are a couple of small software bugs - labelling rather than functionality. These persisted even after the app told me there was a firmware update and did it.

Some experimenting to do but first impressions are great...in about a week I'll stop looking for information on the back of the camera, until then it's a little smile-making.

 

[PeterA]

Well, the Eagle has landed. The dealer told me yesterday that it would be January not 21 December as promised. I thought about that for a little and rang Fuji customer service and asked what delivery status for Dura Black was. They asked who the dealer was and looked up various things and said: "late December"....and that could mean 2 days or 10 they said.

At midday the dealer rang and said "it's here". It transpires that a sole Dura Black had arrived from Fuji this morning

The first thing I can say is the Dura finish is an absolute grease magnet. My hands were freshly washed and still left marks all over it. It looks really grotty, really quickly.

The camera is beaut though. There are a couple of differences to how the GFX 50R and the Xpro 3 handle things like command dial setup. Once I had that sorted I found, what I think are a couple of small software bugs - labelling rather than functionality. These persisted even after the app told me there was a firmware update and did it.

Some experimenting to do but first impressions are great...in about a week I'll stop looking for information on the back of the camera, until then it's a little smile-making.

Looking forward to your thoughts and photos!

 

[Pelorus]

Well the first thought is that it's completely unacceptable for a camera of this value to be delivered without a battery charger!! An empty battery takes 5 hours to charge via USB-C so who's getting up in the middle of the night to charge another battery...and tying up a computer to charge the camera, cables and crap...Fujifilm if you are reading this send me a charger!!

Looking forward to your thoughts and photos!

 

[Pelorus]

And as for photos...this is the first shot with the 35/2...which I like already. It's just a snap of a flower and I think it was moving in the breeze. More work to do on focus points. Straight out of the camera transferred to the iOS app, standard film simulation.

 

[Pelorus]

This is an interesting process. First thoughts...the Fuji JPGs SOOC are fantastic. By comparison the RAW files in C1 look soft and lacking in contrast. With a little work in C1 the RAW looks good. However for the first time I can see why it is many of these Fuji shooters are happy to just work with JPGs SOOC. This shot is a RAW worked up in C1 with a little contrast and some sharpening and a little noise reduction.

Next thing to note is that this is no MF sensor...it is an APS-C sensor and the first thing I noticed was the noise at ISO 1000. Not ugly, not bad, but it's there. Have a look at her left bicep - that's where it's most noticeable. I can get completely rid of it in C1...but the whole shot looks soft. Lots more to do, this was just a shot as the light faded.

I like using this camera though it's a real shooters camera, I have it set to show the image for 1.5 seconds in the EVF (disappears as you depress the shutter) and I don't miss the screen at all. Fast, simple, light, discreet.

 

[Pelorus]

It's a bit of a hot day here today...44 Celsius (111.2 F) and not expected to fall below 35 Celsius until midnight or so. Everyone is hunkered down inside in the shade.

This was a look at the DR of the little sensor. After so long with MF sensors I'm trying to figure out what I can get away with, what the sensor does in various circumstances.

Where's the whippet? This one the top right is completely blown out and unrecoverable. I'd normally reckon on getting that back. The HDR tools in C1 have had a go at this and it's the best I can get.

This old warrior doesn't like the cold so he's as far from the air conditioning as he can get and in his favourite spot - sun and cushion.

The white area on his hind leg is at the far right of the histogram but at 100% there is discernible detail after a little work with the HDR tool.

It's interesting working out the boundaries.

 

[Pelorus]

A couple of random observations:

• It won't autfocus on a flat surface like a wall - even if there's a light band across the wall. It simply won't focus.
• The shutter button is set more to the centre of the body - it seems - than the 50R and it's not the best placement, it doesn't fall easily under my finger.
• The front command dial - which I use all the time - is, unlike the 50R, not concentric with the shutter button and it is quite thin. It doesn't feel ideal
• I will probably end up running this camera, like the 50R, with a stop or 2 of negative exposure comp. Its out of the box metering seems to me to be overexposed. However I acknowledge that exposure is a very personal thing.

None of these things (except the autofocus) are major. I really like this camera in the hand but these are a few nitpicks...except for autofocus. Maybe I'm expecting too much but it reliably will not autofocus on a light coloured background even if there are contrast changes.

 

[Photon42]

Re: The X-Pro 2.5

For the undecided ... :clap: :clap: :clap:

 

[Pelorus]

I can see a preset coming on... Out of the camera the RAW files are quite flat, low contrast, lowish saturation and low sharpness.

This picture has had the following done in moderation:

• Increase saturation
• Increase contrast
• Reduce highlight
• Add sharpness, clarity and structure

None of these were major changes but together they tightened the picture and took it from a very flat presentation to something with some definition. Of course this is all a matter of taste. Having had no other experience of Fuji's APS-C sensors I don't know whether this is how they all come out of the camera and I'd be interested in some feedback. I don't dislike the files, but compared to the 50R they need more work to be acceptable. With the 50R I can often use a file SOOC, I don't feel I can do that with these RAW files...the JPGs are different - they are pretty amazing out the camera.

Just as an aside, there are no artefacts showing here. The marks on the weatherboards on the house are there in reality.

 

[PeterA]

Straight RAF files have less of everything compared to the JPEG files out of Fuji ( and most other cameras ). In Fuji's case you also have the option of choosing which 'film emulation' you wish to use in JPEG - of course in C1 or LR you can also choose to set the raw file using one of the film emulsions as a Jpeg or choose one of the standard presets supplied by Adobe or C1.

The point of a raw file is to deliver the least mucked around set of data so that you can post process to your interpretation of what you want to show - the huge industry of people selling styles and profiles by the truck load as well as software which comes with its own 'canned' 'look' is all about making it easy for people to get a look they like.

FWIW : my workflow for ALL cameras is to set the raw file using a linear profile to begin with and go from there ie avoid as much as possible ANY third party interpretation(s) - this linear profile is very flat compared to any 'sauce' that adobe or C1 wish to provide as a starting point.

Anyway - you probably know that what you see on your monitor is going to be very different to what I see on my monitor - from exactly the same file anyway - since monitor calibration and viewing conditions varies so widely from person to person. This is why B&W photos shared on internet work well for most people- since monitor discrepancies have less impact on viewing experience.

If you shoot video - most manufacturers provide a very flat raw file for those who wish to colour grade - Fuji call this Eterna - but what you actually want is a very flat 'boring' unsharpened' file to begin with - giving you more control over the whole 'development' process - same is true for stills shooting - if you want to develop your own style and look.

Pete

 

[Pelorus]

Thanks Pete, I absolutely understand and agree with that strategy. I guess what interested me is that, at least in my case, the GFX 50R RAW files are coming out of the camera not particularly flat compared to the XPro which seems to be very flat and ready for anything.

Straight RAF files have less of everything compared to the JPEG files out of Fuji ( and most other cameras ). In Fuji's case you also have the option of choosing which 'film emulation' you wish to use in JPEG - of course in C1 or LR you can also choose to set the raw file using one of the film emulsions as a Jpeg or choose one of the standard presets supplied by Adobe or C1.

The point of a raw file is to deliver the least mucked around set of data so that you can post process to your interpretation of what you want to show - the huge industry of people selling styles and profiles by the truck load as well as software which comes with its own 'canned' 'look' is all about making it easy for people to get a look they like.

FWIW : my workflow for ALL cameras is to set the raw file using a linear profile to begin with and go from there ie avoid as much as possible ANY third party interpretation(s) - this linear profile is very flat compared to any 'sauce' that adobe or C1 wish to provide as a starting point.

Anyway - you probably know that what you see on your monitor is going to be very different to what I see on my monitor - from exactly the same file anyway - since monitor calibration and viewing conditions varies so widely from person to person. This is why B&W photos shared on internet work well for most people- since monitor discrepancies have less impact on viewing experience.

If you shoot video - most manufacturers provide a very flat raw file for those who wish to colour grade - Fuji call this Eterna - but what you actually want is a very flat 'boring' unsharpened' file to begin with - giving you more control over the whole 'development' process - same is true for stills shooting - if you want to develop your own style and look.

Pete

 

[PeterA]

Thanks Pete, I absolutely understand and agree with that strategy. I guess what interested me is that, at least in my case, the GFX 50R RAW files are coming out of the camera not particularly flat compared to the XPro which seems to be very flat and ready for anything.

No surprises with what you are seeing Pelorus - the JPEGs typically have inbuilt : higher contrast and more saturation with some sharpening straight out of camera. What I do like about Fuji's in-camera processing is the ability to actually modify the values of any profile you choose to shoot as JPEG - great for happy snaps - especially in B&W.

Enjoy your lightweight Fuji - they are great cameras matched to some superb lightweight optics - my kit is 16/1.4 | 23/2 | and 56/1.2 - the 90 is tempting....
Pete

 

[neilss]

My Pro3 arrived Thursday. Saturday was my first day doing any shooting at all and it was grab and run silly family stuff as one of the kids was over and making cookies, running errands and spacing out to an iPad. Actually exactly what this camera is for. I have the "Fujicron Trinity".

Compared to the sold Pro2 the AF is a great leap, almost as good as a 2007 Nikon D3. By this I mean the AFC is much better at doing what it's name implies. The Pro2 wasn't very good at it BUT are you following an 8 year old or maybe trying to keep someones left eye in focus. Speaking of eyes, the Face/Eye detection is also far better. All of this isn't news to X-T3 users but I wasn't. My X-H1, still have and love it ,was better than the PRO2 as it has two processors onboard. So the AF is better and I really like having even more focus points on the sensor too. Really though, why is Fuji and maybe others, I can't say as I've tried the cameras I've tried behind the Nikons (Canon also) AF performance? That Nikon has just been a yardstick, what I compare to. Now a D4S is the device to best or at least meet if it can. I have to be fair. I don't use the Fuji and the Nikon for the same things. One isn't the other. Also I guess that a lot of the other photography I see is online, Instagram, Blogs etc really doesn't depend on really fast AF anyway. If things are relatively static ie silhouettes of people walking into/out of shadow on a street on this planet who even needs AF. BTW manual focus on the P3 is pretty easy.

So I got that out of the way. The larger finder is great. I can blame the XH for making me want that over the pro2 finder. I won't miss that optical finder of the 2 as it turns out I rarely use it and I used "M's" for decades. Classic Neg simulation. Love it. I shoot RAW + JPG but have no shame or feel less of a shooter if the JPG nails it. I bet I used the fold down screen for shooting sneaky waste levels for a third of yesterdays shots. Combine that with AFC and wide tracking focus and you're off. Very very good.

I am OK with the folding rear display. I never was a heavy chimper. With mirrorless you kinda chimp with every shot in the EVF. The Nikons leading up to this were a chimp once, maybe twice and then get on with it. It's not a thing to get bent over.

So early days but I love it. I'm in the NE corner of the USA. I'm wearing a down parka and this camera with either 'cron fits in the pocket of the coat. Gotta like that.

Neil

 

[Pelorus]

Thanks Neil, this is a really timely post for me. I have no yardstick to compare the XPro3 to. I jumped straight from a film M Leica to an Alpa with MFDB and around 3 months ago a 50R was my first autofocus camera. I read the reviews and had limited expectations of autofocus and the 50R clearly exceeded my expectations.

With the XPro3 (currently with the 35/2) I had much higher expectations...and to date they haven't been met. I don't know what a Sony or a Nikon or any other "decent autofocus" system can do so my only expectation is what I think it ought to be able to do. Some simple things:

• It won't focus on high contrast light bands on a plain, off-white wall...surely it should?
• Once the ISO gets into high numbers it needs really, really clear cues in order to focus...I'd expected better with -6EV capability
• Using spot and eye detect and AFC and keeping the spot on my daughter's face it missed every shot as she walked 30 meters down the pavement towards me. The light was good and contrasty. I used 11fps burst just for fun. Eye and face detect only started to get in on the job as she got within about 8-10 meters and it never reliably held either face or eye. The buffer filled up after around 62 shots using uncompressed RAW and fine JPG - so 5.5 seconds or so - not bad.

A lot of this might be operator skill and settings. I'd be keen to have others' experience of what settings I should use and what I should expect. With the walk down the street I had expected that it would reliably hold focus the whole way and that it would grab her face and eye and hold them from about 7 or 8 meters or so.

I'm sure in a few weeks I'll have my head around this and be using the settings that optimise performance. For now this is an area where performance feels no better than the 50R I dearly love the 50R but I had expected better.

My Pro3 arrived Thursday. Saturday was my first day doing any shooting at all and it was grab and run silly family stuff as one of the kids was over and making cookies, running errands and spacing out to an iPad. Actually exactly what this camera is for. I have the "Fujicron Trinity".

Compared to the sold Pro2 the AF is a great leap, almost as good as a 2007 Nikon D3. [snip]
Neil

 

[neilss]

Pelorus Maybe I can help. So the 50r was your first AF camera? That camera has good AF I've read but supposedly an X-T3 or X-Pro is better so maybe some operator learning is needed. They all need to be learned to some degree, strengths and weaknesses and all.

Just today I focused on some bright and contrasty light on a wall. Maybe yours has less contrast? For sure it can't focus on a blank wall, not sure what camera can. That may be just one example you need to watch for. The Hi-ISO focus? Not sure what to say there but they need some information, an edge or contrast to latch onto. I've found the Pro3 so far to dig deep for focus in super low light but it needs information. I know that sometimes even a Leica M would be a real devil to focus in super low light and I'd need to find an edge or contrast to use to get something going in the Rf window. You may find the same thing here.

Eye/Face recognition......read the manual and look at Youtube for demos. Youtube can save you here.

It is weird but in Single AF the Face detection works and finds a face when you DON"T have you finger on the shutter button. It just goes into search mode looking for a face. The options for face detection change when in C-AF. Yesterday I found face detection worked well. Now for using face detection (or CF in general) when using C-AF you also should be aware that what focus point you use AND what size point(s) matter. I find wide tracking works better than zone for me. Use the focus point to grab the subject and then let the camera move the points to follow the subject. You have to be the one to start the process. It seems to follow really well. It mat be that Wide Tracking, setting #2 works better than the Face detection in your example BUT again see if Youtube can explain a way that works.

I also find AF C Custom setting #2 that ignores being distracted from other subjects helps as the camera is trying to not leave the initial selection.

 

[Pelorus]

Thanks Neil, I greatly appreciate your help. I'll be the first to admit that I'm starting from a low knowledge/skill base so it all needs to be learned. I'll work through some of your suggestions and scout through Youtube.

Kind regards
Mike

Pelorus Maybe I can help. So the 50r was your first AF camera? That camera has good AF I've read but supposedly an X-T3 or X-Pro is better so maybe some operator learning is needed. They all need to be learned to some degree, strengths and weaknesses and all.

Just today I focused on some bright and contrasty light on a wall. Maybe yours has less contrast? For sure it can't focus on a blank wall, not sure what camera can. That may be just one example you need to watch for. The Hi-ISO focus? Not sure what to say there but they need some information, an edge or contrast to latch onto. I've found the Pro3 so far to dig deep for focus in super low light but it needs information. I know that sometimes even a Leica M would be a real devil to focus in super low light and I'd need to find an edge or contrast to use to get something going in the Rf window. You may find the same thing here.

Eye/Face recognition......read the manual and look at Youtube for demos. Youtube can save you here.

It is weird but in Single AF the Face detection works and finds a face when you DON"T have you finger on the shutter button. It just goes into search mode looking for a face. The options for face detection change when in C-AF. Yesterday I found face detection worked well. Now for using face detection (or CF in general) when using C-AF you also should be aware that what focus point you use AND what size point(s) matter. I find wide tracking works better than zone for me. Use the focus point to grab the subject and then let the camera move the points to follow the subject. You have to be the one to start the process. It seems to follow really well. It mat be that Wide Tracking, setting #2 works better than the Face detection in your example BUT again see if Youtube can explain a way that works.

I also find AF C Custom setting #2 that ignores being distracted from other subjects helps as the camera is trying to not leave the initial selection.

 

[Pelorus]

I also found Fuji's special autofocus site...who knew?

 

[algrove]

Never owned this cam before. Any help on the optimal SD card speed for the Xpro3?

I.e., is 150mb/s too slow and is 300mb/s too fast? Thanks.