Post your Capture One Pro Workspace

[dougpeterson]

As a few recent threads about C14 vs. C14 Pro has highlighted one of the great features of pro is the ability to customize your workspace to add/remove/float/rearrange your tools and use either one or two viewers and/or a thumbnail browser.

So this is your chance to shine. Post your workspace(s) and a quick word about what kind of monitor, and why you've customized your workspace the way you have.

I'll start. I'm Doug and I'm a C1-aholic... wait wrong group meeting.

I use a 30" Eizo. When possible I use a 30" Eizo horizontal with a 23" Apple vertical next to it. The below screen grabs are for when I'm using the 30" only (e.g. the 23" is on rental). But first a picture of the rig.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that we sell the customized rolling cases, monitor mounting arms, and Eizo/Apple monitors.

----------------------

For when I'm narrowing a very large number of images down to a manageable group of selects.

For when I'm tethered to the computer during a shoot (usually fashion/portrait)

For when I'm down to the selects and trying to pick the very best image.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
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[Guy Mancuso]

Okay I will play. I'm on a souped up MacBookPro with a 30 inch cinema and I am truly jealous of that Eizo you dog

 

[Jack]

My basic set-up for most shoots...

Here is a link to the full 30" monitor screen grab:



And here is an iPhone capture of my desk:

 

[kitty]

Very impressive Dough. Workspace is really powerful.
Thank you all for sharing.
Is it possible to save workspace for one machine and copy to another machine with same monitor size?

kitty

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

Like LR, these workspaces are not very small screen friendly. I like ACR because it's perfect for a 1048x768 screen like mine.

 

[stephengilbert]

Ben,

Is your screen in portrait mode?

Steve

 

[Jack]

Ben,

The page is so easily user-configured, that I have a totally different layout for when working on my laptop, just like I do for CS4...

Here is a screen capture of the same set-up as above with the window shrunk to what I eyeballed to 1024x768. I overshot that a bit, but you will get the idea. Note that all the tool items automatically collapsed to match the new window size, and I moved to single frame view with one row of images in the browser instead of two. You can of course hide the browser or even run the viewer in a separate window, or you can float any of the tools to adjust your working environment, and you can drag the tool palette to make it thinner:

 

[dougpeterson]

Very impressive Dough. Workspace is really powerful.
Thank you all for sharing.
Is it possible to save workspace for one machine and copy to another machine with same monitor size?

kitty

Like LR, these workspaces are not very small screen friendly. I like ACR because it's perfect for a 1048x768 screen like mine.

My posted workspaces were specific to taking advantage of my large monitor. I have other setups to take advantage of my 2nd monitor. IMO It does that better than any program short of the Photoshop interface.

If anything I think that C1 can be made to work better/faster on a small screen than ACR.

Things you can do in C1 to optimize for a small screen:
- show/hide the tools/browser (Apple-B, Apple-T)
- show/hide the toolbar (pillbox at the top right)
- show/hide the viewer so that only the browser is shown
- float the tools you use the most so they are there even when the tools section is hidden
- navigate between images using Apple-Left and Apple-Right even when the browser is hidden
- rearrange/add/remove tools from multiple tabs so that your go-to tools are all in one tab

Generic

Generic after Apple-B, Apple-T to hide tools/browser

Floated common tools for quick adjustments

and then Apple-T to bring up advanced tools

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
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[dougpeterson]

Very impressive Dough. Workspace is really powerful.
Thank you all for sharing.
Is it possible to save workspace for one machine and copy to another machine with same monitor size?

kitty

Check in [Home > Library > Application Support > Capture One]

There you will find the files that hold your customizations to C1 including (but not limited to) Color Editor settings, Process Recipies, and Workspaces.

Close C1, copy those files to a thumbstick, copy them from the thumbstick to the same location on the other computer, Open C1.

Best done between computers with identical versions of C1 (e.g. both have 4.8.1).

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up

 

[kitty]

Doug, Thanks for the reply and tips. :thumbup:
(Apple-B and Apple-T) is great tips for Macbook Pro.:bugeyes:

 

[cmb_]

- on Windows XP

Just a note to say that a few of the workspace features highlighted in previous posts are only available on Mac and not Windows machines.
- icon to Customize your Toolbar, Mac only
- create your own tool tab (View>Create New Tab), Mac only
- free floating tools, Mac only
- Saving workspaces, Mac only

I am not complaining here, just pointing this out. I am a very happy Capture One Pro user on Windows and have been since ver. 3.7.4 (3 years now).

Here is a screenshot of my workspace from my Windows machine (Screenshot is from the 2008 GetDPI Moab Workshop folder :thumbs: thx Jack & Guy)

NEC MultiSync LCD 2190UXi

View attachment 16992

 

[dougpeterson]

- on Windows XP

Just a note to say that a few of the workspace features highlighted in previous posts are only available on Mac and not Windows machines.
- icon to Customize your Toolbar, Mac only
- create your own tool tab (View>Create New Tab), Mac only
- free floating tools, Mac only
- Saving workspaces, Mac only

I am not complaining here, just pointing this out. I am a very happy Capture One Pro user on Windows and have been since ver. 3.7.4 (3 years now).

Thank you very much for this important note!

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up

 

[Jack]

Good info Charlie, thanks!!! Nice set of images BTW, but none showing the pile of crab legs?

:ROTFL:

 

[ddk]

Doug,

What kind of stand do you use with apple for vertical view? Know of any for the 30" Cinema display?

 

[charlesphoto]

Doug,

Interesting your narrowing down set up. I didn't realize you could float separate grid and full image viewing screens. One of my big beefs was that one couldn't easily (with a key command) go between thumbnails and full screen. I like the floating menus idea. I'm "only" on a 26" monitor but it should work. Will give your set up a try.

 

[thomas]

This is how it looks like here on a 24'' display.
Actually this is a workaround until there is the possibility to zoom smaller than "to fit" (as I always need a neutral frame around the images).

When starting I use more or less the generic setup with the browser set horizontal on the bottom.
With the generic setup I select images, tag them, sort them... and so on.
For editing I switch to the setup shown in the screenshot.
I set the viewer mostly to 50% viewing size and minimize it.
With the keys "alt+V" I bring the viewer to front (fullscreen) and with "cmd+M" I minimize it ... basically I just toggle.
Zoom to 100% I always do in the main window with double click (or keys "cmd 3").
The browser in this setting is narrowed to 2 rows of thumbnails in a small size (hidden in the screenshot). I show/hide the browser with a keyboard shortcut.

As I do a lot of things with keyboard shortcuts this works quite well for me personally.
I figured out my shortcut settings in a way so that I can leave the left hand all the time on the keyboard and the right hand all the time on the mouse.
Too, I minimized the amount of shortcuts were 3 keys are needed. My shortuts can all be set with the left hand only.
Consequently I place the tools on the right side.

These are the keyboard shortscuts I use permanently:

show/hide browser: alt B
show/hide tools: alt T
show/hide toolbar: ctrl T
select next: arrow key right
select previous: arrow key left
select all: cmd A
deselect all: alt A

color tag (red): cmd R
color tag (green): cmd G
color tag (yellow): cmd Y
untag: cmd U
select by red tag: alt S

new variant: ctrl C
clone variant: ctrl D
copy adjustm.: cmd shift C
apply adjustm.: cmd shift V

hand tool: H
WB picker: W
zoom tool: Z
zoom 100%: cmd 3
zoom to fit : cmd 1
show guides: alt G

next tool tab: tab stop
prev. tool tab: alt tab stop

process: cmd P

All the rest I do with menu commands or with the mouse.

Am curious about your keyboard settings!


Regarding the entire workflow I edit my files in the camera profile and process them as 16bit TIFs with the camera profiles embeded.
As I see my 16bit TIFs as the most safe files in my archive (rather than the proprietary RAW files) I want to store them with a proper histogram.
This is why I never do the final editing in C1.
I do define the look but do not set the files to the final contrast. I do that in Photoshop on layers.
These 16bit TIFs in the camera profile with the final adjustments on layers are my "master files" (always named as the RAW files).

My Desktop looks like this (alas not that tidy anymore... took that snapshot right after the builtup).

I've built a thin grey wall of 2x1.2meters. Behind this shade there is "Just Graphic Pro" (D50) light.
To eye up prints I use a small "Color Master" of Just (so I eye up crops only).

Regards, Thomas

 

[dougpeterson]

Thanks for sharing Thomas!

Our online master's class comes with a PDF of our preferred shortcuts. I like how you've organized your shortcuts to be accessed by just your left hand, but we leave most of the shortcuts the same and only suggest a few additions/subtractions/changes.

Among them are
Option F: Add Folder to Favorites
Apple-Option F: Show in Finder
Apple-Shift-Zero: Browser Zoom > Small
Apple-Alt-Shift-Zero: Browser Zoom > Large

Since you're using 16 bit TIFFs as your archive files do you also turn up highlight and shadow recovery a bit to ensure the archive file contains the full range of tones from the raw? Also, do you use only Pre-Sharpening (a.k.a. Capture Sharpening) and then sharpen-to-print downstream?

 

[dougpeterson]

Doug,

What kind of stand do you use with apple for vertical view? Know of any for the 30" Cinema display?

We're a dealer for Ergotron: http://www.ergotron.com/

The stand on our setup is the Ergotron LX Desk Mount LCD Arm good for up to 24" monitors. The Ergotron MX Desk Mount LCD Arm is good for up to 30" monitors. Either one allows you to freely rotate the display to vertical. However I don't believe you can orient the 30" ACD vertically because there's not enough clearance (maybe you could build and attach the stand to a shelf and manage, but not out of the box). Those are desk mounts though; maybe your better option would be to wall-mount your 30" ACD with the Ergotron Neo-Flex™ HD Wall Mount Swing Arm which could rotate your 30" vertical or horizontal.

Both Ergotrons work because the ACDs and Eizos are VESA mount compatible and so can use any VESA compatible arm/mount.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up

 

[thomas]

Since you're using 16 bit TIFFs as your archive files do you also turn up highlight and shadow recovery a bit to ensure the archive file contains the full range of tones from the raw? Also, do you use only Pre-Sharpening (a.k.a. Capture Sharpening) and then sharpen-to-print downstream?

Hi Doug,
if the scene has high contrast I recover some blacks and/or highlights with the HDR tool. But rarely as I actually don't shoot a lot of high contrast subjects.
I've set the "version 3 soft look" for the preview sharpening in C1 as this works okay with the lowres previews ("to fit") of the P45. My default setting is "disable sharpening" in the process tab. Though the sharpening in V4 is very much improved compared to V3 I still prefer sharpening on luminance layers in Photoshop with Focal Blade. Takes time but Focal Blade is a very good sharpening tool IMHO. So I store my files without any sharpening at the first stage.
Regards, Thomas

 

[dougpeterson]

Hi Doug,
if the scene has high contrast I recover some blacks and/or highlights with the HDR tool. But rarely as I actually don't shoot a lot of high contrast subjects.
I've set the "version 3 soft look" for the preview sharpening in C1 as this works okay with the lowres previews ("to fit") of the P45. My default setting is "disable sharpening" in the process tab. Though the sharpening in V4 is very much improved compared to V3 I still prefer sharpening on luminance layers in Photoshop with Focal Blade. Takes time but Focal Blade is a very good sharpening tool IMHO. So I store my files without any sharpening at the first stage.
Regards, Thomas

Makes sense. You might run a head-to-head of:
C1 set to disable sharpening and Focus-Blade doing all sharpening
C1 set to pre-sharpening and Focus-Blad doing additional sharpening

You might find that more micro detail is shown in extreme enlargements when using pre-sharpening at the raw stage. In any case I'd be interested in your results.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up