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Differences between Capture One and Capture One Pro.
LightRoom is definitely easier to learn (especially if you already know other Adobe products). However if you learn all the shortcuts/tricks/tips it is faster than LR. This is shown by the large (probably majority) share of high-end Digital Techs who use it in on location situations which require speed and stability more than quality of conversions.
I truly challenge anyone to do a start-to-finish edit of a huge shoot in any program faster than I can do so with Capture One. I'll happily admit that it took me several weeks of heavy usage before I was this adept (though the basics took only a few hours to learn). With the proper application of the customization of the program (screen layout and keyboards) I can go through the process very fast. Of note are the very fast methods of comparing both zoom-to-fit and 100% views of 2+ images; the keyboard shortcuts for rating images, select by rating, move-to "selects" folder, and copy-paste adjustments, and keyboard-based adjustments to exposure/contrast/saturation/WB.
Just make sure that when you install the trial that you select "Capture One Pro" after the "Try" dialogue. The default is "Try: Capture One".
I just updated the dates: next classes are September 15, 22, and 29 (Intro, Transitioning, and Masters classes respectively).
I'd concur with this. Irrident Digital's Raw Developer is an absolute masterpiece of conversation software. Brian Griffith is the developer and the man is a genius. The software is definitely geared towards refining a single image to it's absolute maximum. It has dozens of parameters and image tweaks that are not in any other software (and which often have arbitrary/mathematical descriptions which are hard even for me to fully understand). RD is pretty much useless (by design - it was not meant for this purpose) at editing down a shoot, or managing anything more than a small handful of images.
At the risk of hijacking the thread, what I haven't quite worked out is where RD really fits in. I have to disagree with your point about it being for once in a lifetime images, because unless you are using the software regularly, I find it unlikely that you will know it well enough to get much benefit from a once in a lifetime image.
Very true. I was able to shoot the A900 in the 2009 GetDPI Arizona Workshop and I found that (for me) best results were achieved by setting the curve to linear, turn off noise reduction, increase the radius of sharpening, add a touch of clarity, and use the Color Editor to make a few minor tweaks to the color profile. Fortunately I only had to do this once and save it as a "style" (pro feature only) and then I could apply it in seconds to 1 or all of the A900 files in a folder. I keep pestering them to add a "apply style" to the CF card import to remove the need to do this, and I am optimistic they will do so at some point.
You really found the best results were achieved when setting the curve to linear? I read this advice several times and didn't really like the results on my A900 raw images. Granted I am very new to the A900. I have only had it a few weeks. But when I was looking at C1Pro with some of my images from Moab, I thought the images looked darker and really lacked something. Maybe I am doing something wrong.
the standard filmcurves boost the highlights very much; the trick with the linear filmcurve is to get basically a smoother image but of course you still have to adjust it with a curve and/or levels.
both yes
How can I boost the blacks and/or set the black/white point? I can't seem to figure it out. My brain is not working well with C1Pro this week.
