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I do own a Cambo and a Flexbody, but not an Alpa.I have to ask the naive and simple question... What makes a Cambo or an Alpa superior to a Flexbody? Seems it would be simple to just get a flexbody and put you lenses and back on it.
G
That's easy to answer: The Flexbody lacks sufficient rigidity to hold the back in precise alignment with lens.I have to ask the naive and simple question... What makes a Cambo or an Alpa superior to a Flexbody? Seems it would be simple to just get a flexbody and put you lenses and back on it.
Hmm. I am not sure what the point of this photo is. Sharp on top, Blurred on the bottom ... What is the intent?While ago I made a dedicated thread about the Flexbody:
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/medium...questions-hasselblad-flexbody.html?highlight=
With the technique described there I was able to make it work for me. With live view it just gets easier.
Edit: I shot a couple of very nice pictures with the Flexbody. The ability to stitch made it possible to get 'full frame' 6x6 pictures.
Edit #2: The flexbody allows also for some creative exploration. ...
The intent is to highlight the owl above the entrance.Hmm. I am not sure what the point of this photo is. Sharp on top, Blurred on the bottom ... What is the intent?
G
This technique can be used creatively, like for simulating miniatures while photographing large scale subjects, for example.Hmm. I am not sure what the point of this photo is. Sharp on top, Blurred on the bottom ... What is the intent?
G
Could you elaborate what your approach is to arrive at a stitched 'full frame' with a 44x33 sensor and FlexBody?While ago I made a dedicated thread about the Flexbody:
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/medium...questions-hasselblad-flexbody.html?highlight=
Edit: I shot a couple of very nice pictures with the Flexbody. The ability to stitch made it possible to get 'full frame' 6x6 pictures.
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It was a different digital back - used extensively with the P45+ (Crop 1.1, so almost full frame) and now with the IQ1 60. I asume it's impossible to reach a 'full frame' image with the smaller sensor due to the lack of side shifts.Could you elaborate what your approach is to arrive at a stitched 'full frame' with a 44x33 sensor and FlexBody?
-FL
Yeah, that's what I reckoned. With the CFV II 50c and FlexBody it'll be possible to stitch, too, but it could theoretically be shy of a 44x66mm rectangle.It was a different digital back - used extensively with the P45+ (Crop 1.1, so almost full frame) and now with the IQ1 60. I asume it's impossible to reach a 'full frame' image with the smaller sensor due to the lack of side shifts.
Roger, the gentleman who posted the thread you linked to, still has the BendyBlad and is willing to sell it. I spoke with him a few months back on that topic. It just seemed a bit of a niche use given that most technical cameras will provide the shift and lenses can be had that will provide front tilt and swing. If you're really into the V-series setup though perhaps it makes sense.Seems I was wrong, it is possible to shoot 6x6 full frame with the CFV50c and Flexbody if you got a modified one: https://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=121134.0
I had the feeling I read about this before, that‘s why I searched a little. I have no personal experiemce with this modification as I only own the standard Flexbody.
Judging by the picture, you have both the original CFV 50c and CFV II 50C in use?My session from today. Rollei X-ACT2 with the CFV II 50C.
Very sweet! Do you use the HB quick plate on the 907X?Actually yes, the CFV II was on the 907X at this point. So I mis-typed the CFV II...apologies. Corrected.
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