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M10 Monochrome

tcdeveau

Well-known member
Thank you for the post Keith. This is helpful. I have never let LR make decisions for me before, but this may be an easy solution. I did notice that I had to set negative exposure comp. I have a White House and a white dog, so photos taken in my yard, revealed that the sensor would easily blow out highlights if I wasn't careful.
Yeah the M Monochrom's in general are subject to blown highlights from my understanding. I have mine set for -0.3 to -0.7 exposure comp as well. I should look into the settings of my camera. I purchased mine used from a fellow forum member, so the camera may not be operating with straight-from-the-factory settings.

All of the pictures I've posted in the "Fun with...." thread have all more or less been SOOC after import/export from LR. I found I haven't had to play with the settings much at all, but I did notice LR appears to apply some sort of tonal "S" curve upon import (with blacks/shadows lowered and whites/highlights raised), so there could be some sort of "Auto" thing going. Never looked into it because I liked what I saw, and the embedded preview in LR was similar to what I was seeing on the back of the camera.

I've also been shooting only mundane scenes around my house and I haven't gotten out with it at all. My processing for my current subject matter (which is basically no processing) probably wouldn't be the same as a landscape scene. There's of course also the issue of my aesthetic tastes may not be the same as another.

Thanks Keith for sharing your screenshot settings as well!

I've been enjoying the camera quite a bit. Told my wife the other day I don't remember the last time I've had this much fun with a camera.
 
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glenerrolrd

Workshop Member
The m10m files are “flat” a linear response curve . This offers the optimum file for post processing because you have retained as much information as possible . i use the preset developed by David Farkas ..free at RedDot Forum . Using the preset ..the m10M file is as good as I can produce for B&W .

Using color files (say M10) ....I could get best results using Capture One or LR followed by Silver Effects Pro to simulate Fuji Acros plus a little more contrast .
 
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