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70HR

thomas

New member
Got my Apo Sironar Digital 70/5.6 (aka Digaron-W 70) for a week now.
It is mounted in a T/S lens panel (Cambo).

My first thought was… big and heavy.
Then again… who cares :)

I am still learning the lens… so my conclusions so far and my short report are most likely not final.

I've ordered the lens with the focus indication slightly rotated towards the T/S indication.
First, I often shoot from relatively high levels so I am glad that I don't have to look over the camera… with the rotated focus indication I rather look from the side.
Too, the tilt knob would make looking at the focus indication even more difficult… unless you'd look at the focus indication straight from above.
So… it helps!

f5.6: center incredibly sharp; edges already really good (on my P45)… I'd consider f5.6 totally usable (without movements)
f8: best aperture (without movements)
f11: slighty diffraction limited (still excellent) - probably best aperture for large movements
f16: clearly diffraction limited. However with large movements at the edges literally the same as f11… maybe even better.
I use f16 from time to time for large movements with my Digitar 47XL as the image is more homogenous… the correction of sharpness falloff looks more even with f16 as the center of the image is not so brutally sharp (in relation to the edges). With the 70mm I have to see…
Too, if you need f16 for DOF… there's no reason to fiddle around with focus stacking or so… I am finding f16 still totally usable.

Color cast is of course less than with the 47XL… the lens is longer and due to the design the rear lens is not as close to the sensor.
No centerfilter required… light falloff is really moderat… even at large movements - 5mm rise & 20mm lateral here:



Here are 2 stitched test images with lateral shift of 20mm. The amount of shift is indicated at the top of the 100% crops.

Scene - f11 | distortion corrected with Alpa Lens Corrector. Distortion is not much but it is visible with large movements:



The middle row of the stitched captures (red = sensor plane of the P45):


100% crop of the marked part of the image (i.e. center of the lens circle to 20mm shift) with sharpening: click

100% crop without sharpening: click


The second one from a wide distance - f16:


100% crop with sharpening (it was quite windy … so better look at the building, not at the shrubs and trees…): click

Looks very good to me so far...

Focussing on the Cambo WRS groundglass works good (with a loupe). To be precise... distances up to around 30 meters or so are relatively easy to focus (in uncritical light). Beyond it gets difficult... I've already taped additional markers on the lens; hope that will work fine as I really hate to carry around a laptop just to check focus...






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Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
FWIW, the 70 HR and the 40 HR are the two main reasons I want a tech camera. The third reason is camera movements LOLOL!
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Don't get me thinking that is just trouble but yea 28mm , 40 and 70 would be my choice. Damn starting to think.
 
I think a suitable kit would be a Tech Camera and a View Camera, with 28mm/35mm/43mm/70mm/90mm/135mm/180mm lenses. Yep. That oughtta about do it.

Damn, I gotta get a 28 and 180!
 
I've been waiting on the Schneider 28, but I'm damn antsy! Honestly, though, I find the 35mm to be too wide for my taste. My 45 hardly comes off the camera.
 

thomas

New member
No lack of sharpness anywhere . Very nice
well, of course some falloff... but if you consider the huge image circle it looks really good to me.

Chris: thanks again for the recommendation. Actually I don't trust forum talk too much... yet sometimes I do ;-)

Unfortunately I have some trouble with the lens. Wide open one side of the image is softer than the other side. Even at f8 it's still slightly visible. Sent the lens back to readjust it. It's better now... but still visible. The strange thing is: sometimes the left side is softer, sometimes the right side. As camera and sensor are fine it's possibly something with the T/S panel. I'm not fully convinced that the T/S mount is accurate enough for such a heavy lens... but first I have to do more methodical testing. Unfortunately at the moment I am totally busy with other things so I have no time to investigate further...
 

vieri

Well-known member
Don't get me thinking that is just trouble but yea 28mm , 40 and 70 would be my choice. Damn starting to think.
I've been waiting on the Schneider 28, but I'm damn antsy! Honestly, though, I find the 35mm to be too wide for my taste. My 45 hardly comes off the camera.
28 Rodenstock, 47 & 90 Schneider is my kit - it works great with the P65+ as far as focals, though I wish I had the 23 for interiors... For me, often the 28 is not wide enough, even with that little extra that the sliding back adapter allows (about 5mm either directions). The 23 Rodenstock has the same image circle as the 28, which means you get the 23 mm's angle of view plus about 5 mm shift either way with the P65+, bringing you about the same angle of view of a 15-16 mm lens on 35mm, all with very high quality (form the MTF charts, it looks slightly less sharp than the 28 on the extreme corners, but it shouldn't be much of a concern at about f16).

Looks like the 23 might be on its way, as soon as I find a buyer for the 28... :angel:
 
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