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Automatic stacking with the IQ4 150 and Cambo Actus XL
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Since the thread has been bumped, probably worth a little update on this aspect.Hi Gerald,
Sorry for the delay, it is hard to speak about a comparison with a lens I don't own. What I can say is that I am very happy with the 105mm Rodenstock. One of my first reasons to buy it was that my dealer tould me that the lens was developed as a "cost no object" lens for control of the quality of the output of sensor wafers and after that was published as the ultimate macro lens. The ring on the lens is used to adopt an element inside the lens to the actual magnification of the object inside the picture. I compose my picture, then I hold a ruler published by Rodenstock (http://www.rodenstock-photo.com/messkarten.pdf) inside the liveview of the viewer and read from the ruler the best setting for the lens, adapt it and make my sequence of pictures. Hope it helps.
Kind regards
Wolfgang
I ended up getting the 105 float and had a custom adapter manufactured so that I could mount it to the CAPcam.
The difference in image quality between this lens and the Schneider 120 in the macro range is absolutely enormous. Just staggering.
The cool thing about using it on the CAPcam is that the software that controls the camera tells you the exact magnification that you are working at, so once the shot is composed, I just dial that in on the lens to ensure the floating element is at the right position to maximise image quality.
Anyone shooting at magnifications for which this lens is optimised really should check it out.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
How does one achieve critical initial focus with such set-ups? Do you rely on the back’s display and focus peaking display? Does the IQ4 display offer a higher degree of accuracy than those less costly systems such as the GFX (which can be confusing with busy subject matter).
The CAPcam swings and tilts (and shifts/rises/falls) controlled by software.
A typical shot will be of the order of a few hundred microns depth of field (up to maybe 1.5mm at lower magnifications), so it's pretty impractical to even attempt to nail the plane of focus simply by looking at the back. I actually shoot with a Panasonic S1R attached to the CAPcam now, tethered, with the feed from the camera going via USB to the tethering software, and by HDMI to a 55 inch display.
So it's a case of getting close using the S1R's pixel peeping, shooting, looking at the result, and then tweaking the focus points (the CAPcam has several ways of focusing, but the most intuitive to me is by telling it the distance to three points on the image) - this tweaking is typically of the order of 100-200 microns. If you need to stack, this can be done perpendicular to the focal plane, with the camera automatically adjusting tilt and swing angles as the focal distance changes, to maintain the same angle of focal plane to sensor plane.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
Thank you. My use case is very different as I work outdoors with landscapes. I have been intrigued by the idea of moving from digital MF cameras to ‘full’ medium format backs on an actus type rig for the superior IQ and camera movements, but cannot see how you can adequately manage focus of very high megapixel sensors without an integrated EVF. This would seem to confirm that MF back systems are still not quite up to that task.
Mexecutioner
Well-known member
I don't see what the problem is, you can focus quite accurately without an EVF regardless of the subject matter you are shooting, whether you are stacking or not. Zooming in on the back of the IQ4 while in live view offers more than enough information to determine if the subjects are in focus. Some people like tethering to a laptop on the field as well. I personally don't, but can totally appreciate the advantage of that method.
As others have rightly mentioned, for landscape use, live view on the digital back would work fine. For what I do I don't have any option other than to shoot tethered (software on the Mac controls the camera), so the performance of the LCD on the digital back (I used to shoot with the IQ3 100) isn't really relevant. I can just sit in a chair and control everything from there.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
Thanks for everyone’s advice on focusing on MF back LCD screens outdoors. I admit that my experience with this is limited to use of the LCDs on prior generation DSLRs using Hoodman-style loupes, which I always found a PITA. The advent of mirrorless cameras, especially those with the recent vintage EVFs, strike me fundamentally as a better solution, especially in bright sun or rain. The Fuji GFX 100 works well this way. However, I clearly need to fish out my old Hoodman and go test one of the new IQ series (price be damned ;-). Thanks again.
I have a hoodman loop that I do use with the LCD if needed. It really depends on the amount of light hitting your screen on the digital back. In my use case I didn't use the loop that much but it was handy to have if there was a lot of glare. The screen is decently bright for most normal use. In fact in my case I made a mistake when I first got the DB, I had the brightness set so high that it was actually causing me to underexpose all my shots by quite a lot. So whatever that information is worth there you have it.
In terms of focusing an EVF MF camera vs a DB MF camera, I think the DB MF is easier to focus manually than a GFX 100 but that is my opinion other's may vary.
I highly recommend that you try a loupe made by Schneider or Peak if you can find one. The Hoodman is truly inferior to a high quality loupe. The visual experience is very dramatic. I rely so heavily on my loupes that I have spares. Most of my loupes are 4X power and very clear.....
Victor B.
Hi,Hi Gerald,
Sorry for the delay, it is hard to speak about a comparison with a lens I don't own. What I can say is that I am very happy with the 105mm Rodenstock. One of my first reasons to buy it was that my dealer tould me that the lens was developed as a "cost no object" lens for control of the quality of the output of sensor wafers and after that was published as the ultimate macro lens. The ring on the lens is used to adopt an element inside the lens to the actual magnification of the object inside the picture. I compose my picture, then I hold a ruler published by Rodenstock (http://www.rodenstock-photo.com/messkarten.pdf) inside the liveview of the viewer and read from the ruler the best setting for the lens, adapt it and make my sequence of pictures. Hope it helps
Kind regards
Wolfgang
Trying to resurect this old thread. I have almost the same setup: Actus-XL (upgraded from Ultima D) + Cognisys stepper motor + Rodenstock 105 macro. Questions:
1. The ruler you mention is this one Rodenstock Ruler ?? The one you linked does not exist anymore.
2. Do you know the value of Dist/Rev in Cognisys module so distance is correct when focusing?
Reply to myself, if somebody with a similar system sees this maybe you can send me a message.
For the moment I am using
Dist/Rev = 16.00mm
Backlash = 0
Seems to be working quite precisely, if I will change them I will post it here.
This set of gear attaches the Cognisys motor to the Cambo Actus-XL. It comes with an instruction manual and is a relatively easy DIY job.
Hi WolfgangJust in case it is helpful to other members I would like to show my solution to do automatic stacks with a technical camera. Some weeks ago I bought a like new Cambo Ultima 23 used at a very modest price and upgraded it with 2 parts to an Actus XL. I have an Actus DB, so all the necessary other things were at hand like bellow, adapter, lenses etc. I also own a Cognisys Stack Shot but without a cable to trigger the IQ4 it does not work. To overcome the situation I found out that the Haehnel cable remote for the XF fits into the 12 pin plug of the back but shooting 100 shots manually is no fun. So I rummaged for a solution in my photographic box of toys and found a Haehnel Giga T Pro wireless remote I bought some years ago and voila! the receiver can be exchanged against the wired shutter release. Now I am not only able to fire the ES of the back wirelessly but also use the interval timer and timelapse function of the programmable remote control to synchronize the backs ES with the movements of the camera by just pressing the start knob of the Stack Shot and the Giga T Pro together:grin:. All the functions of the remote will work with every technical camera so I hope, someone can benefit from that setup.
Kind regards
Wolfgang
I am working on getting this exact setup to work for me. have not bought it yet. I am curious about the Cognisys. And I know about the Actus-985 kit. did you mount It your self and how does It connect to the knob on the xl....do you need to take something of ? do you have to shorten the stepmotor aksel ? thanks
Søren
Hi,
You don't have to do anything, you can install it in 10 min. It is an elegant solution. Post your email and I will send you the instructions. For some peculiar reason Cambo doesn't list them on the website.
As for the the Cambo Actus-XL + Cognisys motor + Rodenstock 105mm Macro, it is the dream solution if you are into focus stacking+macro range 1:4 - 4:1.
I am not aware of a better lens in the world than the Rodenstock 105 in this range of magnification (except the Schneider set of lenses which some say have the same quality but are optimized only for a specific magnification so you have to buy all 4).
But if you want lower magnification do not bother with the Rodenstock. In my tests after 1:5 and going to infinity a Canon 90 TS-E 2.8mm goes head to head with the Rodenstock. And you can find one for 1000 EUR second hand in perfect condition. PS >> I did my tests on a GFX 100S so I cannot comment on the IC size of the Canon 90, did not have time to check.
So don't buy the Rodenstock unless you specifically work in that range of magnification.
If you have any more questions let me know
I am not aware of a better lens in the world than the Rodenstock 105 in this range of magnification (except the Schneider set of lenses which some say have the same quality but are optimized only for a specific magnification so you have to buy all 4).
But if you want lower magnification do not bother with the Rodenstock. In my tests after 1:5 and going to infinity a Canon 90 TS-E 2.8mm goes head to head with the Rodenstock. And you can find one for 1000 EUR second hand in perfect condition. PS >> I did my tests on a GFX 100S so I cannot comment on the IC size of the Canon 90, did not have time to check.
So don't buy the Rodenstock unless you specifically work in that range of magnification.
If you have any more questions let me know