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Best outdoor off camera flash to use with the X2D

ndwgolf

Well-known member
Ten + years ago I bought 2 x Profoto B1 strobes that I still have now and they’re still fantastic lights today. The problem is they are so so heavy to lug around especially when I’m doing portraits out in the field. What Im looking for is a smaller compact light weight strobe that works well with the Hasselblad X2D II that gives me high speed sync and portability.
I’ve seen some videos of the Godox system but I’m struggling to get my head wrapped around them as they just have so many different models.
I still want to be able to take portraits using off camera flash but at nearly 70 years old I need something smaller with reasonable power and price.
Thanks in advance
Neil
 
I know this isn’t exactly what you asked for, but if I may make a suggestion which could help you achieve your goals of smaller, lighter and cheaper.

High speed sync eats up a lot of flash power, and with the leaf shutter in the Hasselblad lenses you don’t need it.

I would try and learn to shoot without it, ideally on manual, with your current B1’s. You’ll then be able to see how much power you need. Depending on your style of shooting and modifiers used, it could be very little power. Quite possibly even under 100J on average.

Once you have a better idea of how much power you need you can look at options. There is the tiny 100J Profoto A2, or the 250J B20. There is also the 250J Elinchrom Three, plus many small Godox models if you want to save more money (the AD100 and AD200 come to mind).

But by getting off high speed sync you’ll be able to get something smaller and lighter, and cheaper whatever route you go.

You could then find something smaller which meets 100% of your needs. Or get something even smaller again, with enough power for most occasions, then pull out you B1’s when you need that little bit extra.

I hope this helps.
 
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Hi,

To try and save money, look at the Godox AD600 Pro lights. These are the first version and will likely be cheaper now that the version II lights are out.

Also, these have a bit more power than your B1 lights. (600 vs 500 watts). So you should be happy.

Modifiers are inexpensive. If you aren't using the modeling lights, the batteries will last a long time before needing to charge again.
 
One more note: the fastest I have been able to sync these Godox lights are only around 1/500th to 1/750th.

There may be a way to sync them higher, but I haven't found it.
 
Hi,

To try and save money, look at the Godox AD600 Pro lights. These are the first version and will likely be cheaper now that the version II lights are out.

Also, these have a bit more power than your B1 lights. (600 vs 500 watts). So you should be happy.

Modifiers are inexpensive. If you aren't using the modeling lights, the batteries will last a long time before needing to charge again.
How are they size wise ?
 
Ten + years ago I bought 2 x Profoto B1 strobes that I still have now and they’re still fantastic lights today. The problem is they are so so heavy to lug around especially when I’m doing portraits out in the field. What Im looking for is a smaller compact light weight strobe that works well with the Hasselblad X2D II that gives me high speed sync and portability. [...]
To try and save money, look at the Godox AD600 Pro lights. [...]
Well, Profoto B1 is supposed to be 3kg while Godox AD600pro is ≈3kg "without flash tube and reflector"... If the OP could live with a little less power, going to AD400pro (II) would drop 1kg per head. Going to AD300pro could drop almost another kg but it's Godox mount only. The AD600pro is Bowens mount while the AD400pro is twin mount with a Godox inner ring and interchangeable outer ring. So the AD400pro can be made to on Profoto mount natively.
 
I know this isn’t exactly what you asked for, but if I may make a suggestion which could help you achieve your goals of smaller, lighter and cheaper.

High speed sync eats up a lot of flash power, and with the leaf shutter in the Hasselblad lenses you don’t need it.

I would try and learn to shoot without it, ideally on manual, with your current B1’s. You’ll then be able to see how much power you need. Depending on your style of shooting and modifiers used, it could be very little power. Quite possibly even under 100J on average.

Once you have a better idea of how much power you need you can look at options. There is the tiny 100J Profoto A2, or the 250J B20. There is also the 250J Elinchrom Three, plus many small Godox models if you want to save more money (the AD100 and AD200 come to mind).

But by getting off high speed sync you’ll be able to get something smaller and lighter, and cheaper whatever route you go.

You could then find something smaller which meets 100% of your needs. Or get something even smaller again, with enough power for most occasions, then pull out you B1’s when you need that little bit extra.

I hope this helps.
I just came back from a shoot today; Shot at 1/2000 f2.8 ISO 50 using 7.6% power on the B1 head. I have always got great results with these heads its just that they are to heavy to lug around.
Fon-Sarisen-Bridge_0040.jpgFon-Sarisen-Bridge_0025.jpg
 
I just came back from a shoot today; Shot at 1/2000 f2.8 ISO 50 using 7.6% power on the B1 head. I have always got great results with these heads its just that they are to heavy to lug around.
Actually, sync speed with leaf shutter isn't exactly a total blank cheque... With very short leaf shutter duration, there comes a point where the flash burst would be so close to the shutter duration that further increase in flash power would do nothing at all to the sensor exposure. In this case, you poured in 38Ws. Using a Godox AD400pro as example, fitting within a 1/2000 sec window requires limiting the output to 1/8+0.5, which is 70Ws. So this Godox model fits your power and duration need with one stop of headroom. But you're likely running out of space for downgrading the head power even further.
 
Good point accwai, he would need to make sure the t01 time is still slightly faster than the shutter speed.

To be honest, the 3kg B1 isn’t too bad. Based on the last shoot, the OP could go down to a B20, but that is only 1.9kg. Or the comparable Godox model, but they tend to be bigger and heavier from what I recall.

I’m also not sure how fast of recycle is needed. Or how many shots are needed per shoot. That will affect things, especially with the smaller and lighter strobes.

If the B20 isn’t small enough. It might be there isn’t really anything else which is going to radically lighten the load.

At that point, maybe try a speedlight off camera, or the A2 (or AD100) to really drop weight, then work within their limits. Or try to lower the requirements by changing modifiers, and/or getting it closer to the subject, etc. I’m not sure what is being done there.
 
I have no idea if any of the Nikon Speedlights are powerful enough for your purposes. There are mounts that allow you to gang up 4 units if neccessary. Plus, they offer automatic functions with the camera.

Screenshot 2026-02-16 at 11.29.24 AM.jpg
 
I’m also not sure how fast of recycle is needed. Or how many shots are needed per shoot. That will affect things, especially with the smaller and lighter strobes.
Yesterdays shoot was 110 images, limited due to the fact that a really heavy rain storm was just minutes away so it was a mad rush back to the car ( the B1 was still showing full power on the back) but I did notice a longer delay in cycling between shots but milli seconds rather than "ooh hurry up and give me the beep"
My Fiancé/Model suggested that I bring one of her friends to the shoots so that she can help carry some of the gear, probably cost me a tenner for a half day so we might try that.

On another note my light stand that is a cheapo bought of Lazada (asian equivalent to ebay) needs replacing so looking for suggestions for a light sturdy replacement, and the more I think about it the assistant suggestion sounds like a good idea especially for those windy days on the beach trying to shoot a bikini shoot at sunrise/sunset
 
Profoto B20 (250Ws).? or the even smaller A2 (100Ws; but this one is smaller diameter and uses the click modifiers). If you already have the Profoto Nikon Air TTL or Connect Pro trigger, then this would be my choice No. 1, instead of switching to Godox.
 
My new setup...........works great
Leofoto LM324CL 2m 20cm tall
And keep using the Profoto B1 Head...........very sturdy and lighter than my normal light stand
IMG_0269.jpgIMG_0273.jpgIMG_0282.jpgIMG_0290.jpg
 
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