charging Copal 0 on Schneider 35 XL

[f8orbust]

But do you think it is possible to replace that spring?

By the sounds of it, the spring just tensions a mechanism and is unrelated to timing, so it should be relatively easy to replace with one that's 'close enough'.

So, if S/K can't (or won't) supply one, contact a watch repair business (like Maddisons of Durham here in the UK) and ask them to help.

Also, Amazon sell boxes of tiny springs in all sorts of sizes, so that's an option as well.

 

[vjbelle]

I would not have it repaired unless you need to use the shutter. You don't mention which DB you are using but I'm assuming it is one of the newer models that has an ES. I would use that exclusively and forget about the copal shutter. The most important thing about your particular shutter is its flatness and that relationship with the lens elements. If you are happy with that and you have an ES then all should be well - at least it would be for me....

Victor B.

 

[dchew]

But black reference isn’t this a done thing with the IQ4?

I still do them in two situations: Shutter speed > 1 sec or ISO above 100. No science behind that; it's just what I do.

Dave

 

[Alkibiades]

By the sounds of it, the spring just tensions a mechanism and is unrelated to timing, so it should be relatively easy to replace with one that's 'close enough'.

So, if S/K can't (or won't) supply one, contact a watch repair business (like Maddisons of Durham here in the UK) and ask them to help.

Also, Amazon sell boxes of tiny springs in all sorts of sizes, so that's an option as well.

this does not work like that, you cant get such spring on amazon and only repair station that own original copal parts can fix it. even if the sppring would cost 10 cent in the production you will need exactly such one.
and Schneider has no parts of copal shutters and do no service of any copal shutters.

 

[f8orbust]

this does not work like that, you cant get such spring on amazon and only repair station that own original copal parts can fix it. even if the sppring would cost 10 cent in the production you will need exactly such one.
and Schneider has no parts of copal shutters and do no service of any copal shutters.

I've fixed old shutters for over 20 years using 'good enough' parts simply because OEM parts are unavailable.

Because the OPs issue seems to be related to a simple tensioning problem, I'd bet my last bottom dollar that it's a fairly straightforward fix with a spring of broadly the equivalent size and elasticity, plus a bit of common sense.

 

[mristuccia]

I'm really sorry for what's happened to your shutter.

Mr. Greiner replaced the out-of-spec shutter of my 35XL with another one. So, he may have other shutters to replace your broken one. It will cost you quite a bit though...

You may also go for an AU, but honestly I'd not miss the possibility of using a mechanical shutter for flash or night photography.

 

[usm]

There are some on eBay and from Grimes.

The Copal is nice to have , but actually I never used it for an image.
But I think for indoor shoots with flickering lights I would need it.

 

[usm]

Any suggestions how to clean the little inside lens of the front element from the SK35XL?
just a normal lens cleaning fluid from zeiss and a microfiber cloth?

 

[rdeloe]

I use a micro fiber cloth and eye glass cleaning solution. Very gentle, after blowing.

 

[Rod S.]

Any suggestions how to clean the little inside lens of the front element from the SK35XL?
just a normal lens cleaning fluid from zeiss and a microfiber cloth?

I urge caution, as the inside lens surface sits proud of the metal housing and is very vulnerable.

If it needs cleaning beyond a blower, I recommend following the method that Schneider itself uses (see below), with a cotton bud (USA: Q-tip) wetted with acetone.

The cotton bud allows you to limit the area touched much more precisely than with an easily contaminated cloth with your finger behind it.

The acetone dissolves grease and then evaporates quickly, generally leaving no marks after a second wipe with a second wetted cotton bud.

For ease of use, pour a small amount of acetone into a small shot glass. Don't contaminate the acetone by double dipping; always use a fresh cotton bud.

Avoid touching the outside perimeter of the glass surface, which is painted black.

For those who don't believe that SK uses acetone, freeze this SK video at 0:36 seconds, where a bottle labelled 'acetone' is on the bench in front of the technician.

Cheers

 

[rdeloe]

I've used acetone too Rod, but in my experience the risk of spilling over onto the paint is too high for me. Acetone is what I use to dissolve glue bonds; it will even soften epoxy if left on long enough. The blackening paint around the lens cell is matte and soft and the acetone eats it too quickly for my taste. With care, it's fine I'm sure. But if grease and oil are the issue, I use a product called ROR -- Residual Oil Remover. It's safe for delicate optics and doesn't eat paint like acetone. I don't know about availability around the world.

For those who want to try acetone, you can pick it up at your local pharmacy because nail polish remover is acetone. Just get the pure version rather than one that has perfumes and other substances in it.

 

[vjbelle]

I agree that Acetone is a little too dangerous for cleaning lenses. I have found that denatured alcohol works effectively and dries without leaving any residue. I even dilute mine 1 to 1 with water to be really safe. Can easily be found at Lowes and Home Depot.

Victor B.

 

[usm]

I wiped over it two times but I guess there are tiny scratches on the lens.

This what I got back from the camera shop…

I did a quick check and I can’t see it on the images…

 

[Rod S.]

Are you saying that you gave the lens to the camera shop to fix the shutter and it came back with this mark on the lens?

The mark on the glass might be an abrasion into the coating, or it might be a deposit of some substance that is resistant to whatever liquid was used.

What is the liquid we can see on the black painted exterior?

Please don't wipe that lens with a cloth.

 

[drevil]

There are some on eBay and from Grimes.

The Copal is nice to have , but actually I never used it for an image.
But I think for indoor shoots with flickering lights I would need it.

i recently had my copal 0 repaired at foto haus basel, but my issue was also quite small and easily repaired, but they did great job and it feels like new.
cost me 105chf

 

[Rod S.]

Further thoughts to what I wrote above, earlier:

I don't see any 'tiny scratches', as you phrased it. I see a large elongate mark with a diffuse edge that has two or three clearer diagonal bands across it.

My best guess is that it's a fingerprint. That would be the simplest explanation.

Some fingerprints are gluey and resist removal but can be removed with the right approach.

Now, what to do?

There are numerous foreign particles visible on the edge of the lens and on the painted exterior. (SK didn't leave them there. Where did they come from?)

If you use a cloth, some of those particles will, unavoidably, get scored across the lens.

(In addition, cleaning cloths get put down on surfaces, where they collect grit.)

First, before anything else, use a blower to remove the loose particles.

If a larger particle won't blow off, it likely has some sticky substance on it. I would gently nudge it loose with the pointy corner of a sheet of tissue paper.

With the visible particles removed, I recommend that you wet a cotton bud with YOUR CLEANING LIQUID OF CHOICE and rub the tip against the mark. Just the mark.

(I've used acetone safely for years, and for fingerprints it works well and better than anything else I've tried. But I'm careful. You use what you want.)

Use multiple cotton buds, each newly wetted. As you do, examine the mark and judge if the mark is becoming smaller. If it appears to be coming off, great.

Using this approach, I have over the years removed a number of marks that I initially thought were permanent.

Take care.

 

[usm]

Are you saying that you gave the lens to the camera shop to fix the shutter and it came back with this mark on the lens?

I did not ckeck the lens in the shop, so I dicovered the mark when I corrected the cover of the ring for the time adjustments.
I spoke to the technican today and of course he said this was before and I said no. So we are in 1:1 postition. I asked him why he did't say this when he discoverd the mark, but there was no answer...
He also said that he did't close the cover because for "good" because he did't repair the spring.
Well (or actualy not), but talking with him is over for me.

What is the liquid we can see on the black painted exterior?

I never spray (Zeiss lens cleanig fluid) directly on the lens. I spray into the air and move the lens through the mist.

What I did so far:
I always try to blow off everything with a hand bellows. I also avoid to use liquids for cleaning the sensor. Never used pressured air.
The Q-tip is a way to big for this tiny lens and tiny mark. It cover almost the whole lens. It would be too dangerous to touch the painting around the lens.
I used the edges of my sensor cleaning swabs with aceton. It kind of worked out ok, it is smaller but not gone completly. I stopped working on it because I was running out of unused swabs and also I don't want to do too much. And of course it leaves some traces on the lens. So cleaning the whole surface of the lens with a lens cleaning liquid was necessary. If I look through my magnifying glass I can always see some dust or whath ever, I am not in cleanroom here. But it is better than before.

Thanks for the suggestion to use aceton and also for the warnings! They are important!


For others reading this tips, warnings do's and dont's ...
Everything here is up to your one responsibility. There are alway different opinions. For example: "I use a micro fiber cloth..." vs. "don't wipe that lens with a cloth".
This is not a criticism. It is a warning that you can realy damage your lens with al this above when you are not carefull.


Now I can think again about the main spring of the my copal 0...

 

[rdeloe]

I did not ckeck the lens in the shop, so I dicovered the mark when I corrected the cover of the ring for the time adjustments.
I spoke to the technican today and of course he said this was before and I said no. So we are in 1:1 postition. I asked him why he did't say this when he discoverd the mark, but there was no answer...
He also said that he did't close the cover because for "good" because he did't repair the spring.
Well (or actualy not), but talking with him is over for me.

I never spray (Zeiss lens cleanig fluid) directly on the lens. I spray into the air and move the lens through the mist.

What I did so far:
I always try to blow off everything with a hand bellows. I also avoid to use liquids for cleaning the sensor. Never used pressured air.
The Q-tip is a way to big for this tiny lens and tiny mark. It cover almost the whole lens. It would be too dangerous to touch the painting around the lens.
I used the edges of my sensor cleaning swabs with aceton. It kind of worked out ok, it is smaller but not gone completly. I stopped working on it because I was running out of unused swabs and also I don't want to do too much. And of course it leaves some traces on the lens. So cleaning the whole surface of the lens with a lens cleaning liquid was necessary. If I look through my magnifying glass I can always see some dust or whath ever, I am not in cleanroom here. But it is better than before.

Thanks for the suggestion to use aceton and also for the warnings! They are important!


For others reading this tips, warnings do's and dont's ...
Everything here is up to your one responsibility. There are alway different opinions. For example: "I use a micro fiber cloth..." vs. "don't wipe that lens with a cloth".
This is not a criticism. It is a warning that you can realy damage your lens with al this above when you are not carefull.


Now I can think again about the main spring of the my copal 0...

This sounds like good progress. I'm sorry to hear about your problems with the technician. That's always frustrating.

If I understand you correctly, applying acetone made the area of the problem smaller. Scratches don't get smaller when you apply acetone, so it sounds like there's a substance on the lens that you were able to partially remove.

Seeing that you're comfortable using acetone, another step you could consider is applying a drop onto the affected area and letting it sit for five minutes before carefully wiping it up carefully. If it is a solid, crusty material, just be careful about wiping. Instead, try gently absorbing the acetone and residue. Were I do this, I'd practice applying a drop onto a flat glass surface to make sure I could put a small, controlled amount.

 

[usm]

Seeing that you're comfortable using acetone, another step you could consider is applying a drop onto the affected area and letting it sit for five minutes before carefully wiping it up carefully. If it is a solid, crusty material, just be careful about wiping. Instead, try gently absorbing the acetone and residue. Were I do this, I'd practice applying a drop onto a flat glass surface to make sure I could put a small, controlled amount.

I will keep this in mind. Thanks. Now I will see how to repair or not repair the copal 0...