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E-M1, E-M5, E-M5.2, etc. ... Peculiarities


Well-known member
It's the E-M1 Mark II sensor ...
Thanks Bart. Much appreciated. I have that one too.
I simply copied their headline.
They must have had a typo and corrected it after I copied their headline.

Now the entire story sounds fishy to me. :facesmack:
Why would Olympus stick an E-M1 II sensor in a new camera named E-M5 III.

Ah, here is their correction:

Rumor: The Olympus E-M5 III to be launched October 17th, use same 20MP sensor as E-M1 II
Published Sep 23, 2019 | Gannon Burgett

Update (September 23, 2019): Corrected to reflect the 20MP sensor the rumored E-M5 III will be based on is in fact the E-M1 II, not the E-M5 II.


Workshop Member
'Accurate autofocus on any subject in any environment': Olympus engineer talks OM-D E-M1 Mark III AF

Published Apr 13, 2020 | Sponsored content, created with the support of Olympus

The AF of the EM1.3 - including face and eye detection dances in fact really circles around what I am used from the EM1.2 and the EM1X. It is accurate, detects eyes and/or faces pretty fast (not sure if superior to Sony) but IMO very good and more than satisfying to me.

Alone for that I would give the EM1.3 absolute preference to any other (older) Olympus PRO body (including the EM1X).


Well-known member
After 84 Years, Olympus Is Exiting the Camera Business

The company's Imaging business is being sold off to investment fund Japan Industrial Partners, which also acquired the VAIO brand from Sony in 2014.

By Matthew Humphries
June 24, 2020

Too bad. :banghead:
I can’t say I do blame them.

Unless JIP can convince Sony to make a better MFT sensor for them, I have no plans to buy any additional MFT gear. My many superb FT and MFT lenses deserve a better camera with an improved sensor or they won’t see much future use. :facesmack:

For me the main attraction of MFT was IBIS and much lighter tele lenses because of the smaller MFT sensor.

Currently my Sony ILCE-9, the A9, is my go to system for all kinds of photography, including action, birding, and candid photography.

The A9 with Firmware version 6.0 is simply amazing and has totally spoiled me for inferior camera systems. :thumbs:

The only exception is my Fujifilm GFX 50S with its stunningly superb GF lenses for landscape, portrait, and other non-action photography. :clap:


Active member
Olympus to ship 150-400mm F4.5 this winter, adds 8-25mm F4 Pro to lens roadmap
Published Jul 2, 2020 | Allison Johnson

So what! :shocked: :facesmack: :grin:
Where is the camera to go with it? :banghead:
You can always use the E-M1X with it. In Winter 2020 E-M1X will have Bird Detection capability added to its Olympus’ Intelligent Subject Detection. Could be a nice combo.


Well-known member
Unfortunately sensor readout time too slow to use the silent shutter for Hummingbirds in Flight. :facesmack:


Well-known member
Viola Flowers

Olympus E-M1 Mark II + OLYMPUS FT 150mm F/2.0 SHG + EC-20 @ 300 mm (600 mm in 35mm), f/5.6, 1/250 s, ISO 4,000.
I like the colors and the rendering of the FT 150/2.0 SHG! :clap:


Well-known member
Rufous Hummingbird

:ROTFL: :LOL: :grin:

Olympus E-M1MarkIII + M.300mm F4.0 + MC-20 @ 600 mm (1200 mm in 35mm).
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Well-known member
Not very exciting: only support for their new tele-zoom ... :facesmack:
... but interesting nevertheless Bart.

Under the E-M1.3 update it says:

(Aug. 04 2020)

  • Possible to use in-camera focus stacking mode with "M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS".

Under the E-M1.2 update it says:

(Aug. 04 2020)

  • Possible to use in-camera focus stacking mode with "M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS".
  • Image stabilization performance when using "M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS" has been improved.
    • * Roll compensation is available with the image stabilization function of the body, along with the pitch and yaw image stabilization function of the lens.
    • * The "M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS" is not compatible with 5-axis Sync IS.

Well, what do you make of this?
Can the III do ”5-axis Sync IS” but the II can’t?
Inquiring minds would like to know. :facesmack:

If it can do pitch, yaw, and roll,
what’s missing are X- and Y-corrections important only for close-ups.
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Well-known member
Olympus Workspace Software Download
Olympus Workspace

I use the Olympus Workspace app to update the Olympus software on my Mac computers and the firmware on my Olympus cameras. This app also can be used to reveal actual shooting parameters from images taken years ago. Here is such an example from October 2017.

Olympus E-M1MarkII + Olympus ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 300mm 1:2.8 @ 300 mm (600 mm in 35mm), f/4, 1/2000 s, ISO 640, Copyright Karl-Heinz A Winkler, Date Taken 2017-10-31 12:32:14.

Using the Olympus Workspace app one can extract detailed shooting information like this:

Model Name:E-M1MarkII
Lens Information:OLYMPUS 300mm Lens
Shooting Mode:M (Manual)
Focal Length:300.0mm
Focal Length (35 mm conversion):600.0mm
Shutter Speed:1/2000sec
Exposure compensation:0.0EV
Exposure Shift:0EV
White balance:Auto (Keep Warm Color:OFF)
Picture Mode :Natural
Highlight&Shadow Control:OFF
Color Space:Adobe RGB (1998)
Metering Mode:ESP
ISO Sensitivity:640
Focus Mode:Continuous AF
AF Focus Adj.:"-3" (T:-3,W:-3)
Drive:Silent+Sequential shooting (1frame)
Multiple Exposure:OFF
Keystone Comp.:OFF

Here I was particularly interested which AFMA values I had used.
Did I use S-AF or C-AF?
Did I use the Silent or the Mechanical shutter?
And finally did I use Sequential shooting?

This type of information is needed to judge whether the intended AFMA parameters were applied or not.

Back in April 2017, you Bart and I, had carefully examined our Olympus FT lenses with regards to AFMA adjustments needed.

I arrived at the following adjustments for my E-M1.2, quote:
• HG . 50-200/2.8-3.5 SWD: AFMA = -2
• SHG 90-250/2.8: @250m . AFMA = -3 z(oom) tuna
• SHG 150/2.0: ................. AFMA = -2 little tuna
• SHG 300/2.8: ................. AFMA = -3 big tuna

Since then the E-M1.2 had 12 firmware updates, quite a few of them improving AF. It shows.
Lately for little tuna I measured the AFMA values needed when used on my E-M1.2 or E-M1.3.
I now find no adjustment is needed! :shocked: :thumbup: :grin:
• SHG 150/2.0: ................. AFMA = 0 little tuna in August 2020! :clap:

I still have to work on the other FT lenses. :banghead:

BTW, Ric at
noticed similar improvements with his E-M1.3. :thumbs: :salute:


Well-known member
Hi there K-H,

since we've got a heat wave coming :)banghead:) so it's a good time to find out how your theory works out for my FT-lenses.

Best regards.


Well-known member
Hi there K-H,

since we've got a heat wave coming :)banghead:) so it's a good time to find out how your theory works out for my FT-lenses.

Best regards.

Well Bart, good luck with your efforts. :thumbs:
Setting up the target and tripod is the hardest part.
I found my ARCA-SWISS Core 75 leveler tripod head very useful in this exercise.

So the focus point in 14x magnification didn't move with 2 second shutter delay! :shocked: :grin:
Reading through what we did back then in 2017 got me back up to speed fast.

I started reading here:
and ended here:

This time I chose a distance not much further than close focus distance. :grin:

I would need an optical bench to get the measurements any more accurate than this.

Good enough for me! :loco: :facesmack:

Getting used to the blackout free A9 really has spoiled me for the Olympus cameras. :banghead:


Well-known member
NSIDE Image Stabilization:
Olympus takes us on a geek’s tour of what makes IS work

by Dave Etchells posted Wednesday, July 29, 2020 at 6:49 PM EDT

Lots of detail. :clap:

For starters, quote:

" Image Stabilization: The Basics

There are two main types of image stabilization: in-body image stabilization (often abbreviated to IBIS) or optical image stabilization (aka in-lens or lens-based IS). Each works to correct the fundamental problem caused by camera shake -- the image projected by the lens moving across the sensor surface during exposure. (There's also something called electronic or digital image stabilization, based on simply shifting the location of data readout on the face of the sensor. Electronic image stabilization can introduce motion artifacts that IBIS and lens-based IS avoids.)"

I think I have to pay more attention to his last point and maybe switch off electronic or digital image stabilization in my Olympus cameras for certain scenarios? :facesmack:

Well, reflecting on why I bought my first modern MFT camera, the Olympus OM-D E-M5, was its 5-axis IBIS and sensor IQ that finally was up to snuff. I had gotten the inferior Olympus E-P2 with attachable EVF before that to gain some experience with the EVF to be used on a Leica M camera that in the end I never acquired. :LOL:
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Well-known member
Isn't that odd:
There are two main types of image stabilization: in-body image stabilization (often abbreviated to IBIS) or optical image stabilization (aka in-lens or lens-based IS)
IBIS or OIS aka ILIS or LBIS ... :loco:
Or what am I missing here ?