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Expirience with the Hasselblad XCD 135 + 1.7TC?

Thorkil

Well-known member
Does anyone have Experience with the Hasselblad XCD 135 + 1.7TC? and perhaps a long-time evaluation?
Do you use it?, has it grown upon you? Or is it staying in the shelf?
Please tell...
(or...can anyone confirm a new XCD telelens is on its way..? - so a waiting could be usefull)
 

Precision

Active member
I have that combo. I dont think I have ever used the TC, it might be great but I just have an unreasonable aversion to teleconverters, a hangover from cheap generic TCs in the bad ol 35mm film days.

i recently used that lens (along with the rest of my quiver) while testing the new X2Dii last week. It is a lens that I am always pleased with when I use it, and I likely should use it more.
I had posted a downres Image and a cropped 100resolution here:
Post in thread 'Medium Format Pets'
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/index.php?threads/medium-format-pets.75998/post-933320

most of that shoot was a portrait/fashion/wedding pseudo-session (simulating the use case but not getting paid since I cannot really just experiment on someone else’s dime) and all people photography. Like I said, every time I use that lens, I think “I should use that lens more often”

so far as a new style Lens with the slide out focus clutch, DOF scale and probably lighter with a faster sync speed….I don’t know about that but of course, never would. If you do people photography, other than the size, I prefer that one to the 90XCD. Would love to get a chance with the 120 Macro XCD but that one seems to be scarce, and I suspect the owners are all holding on to theirs because you almost never see them used, and when you do, pricing is silly, like above original MSRP.
 

Steve Hendrix

Well-known member
I haven't written a review on it, and haven't performed any comparative tests, but I have shot this lens and have been impressed by the optical performance throughout the aperture range, and including max aperture of f/2.8. Vierri Bottazzini has an in-depth review that speaks to this:

https://www.vieribottazzini.com/2019/08/hasselblad-xcd-135mm-f-2-8-in-depth-review.html

Just know that if you think you would ever use the 1.7 tele-converter (which is only compatible with the 135), it must be purchased with this lens, it cannot be purchased separately at a later date. Why, makes no sense to me, but this is indeed the case.


Steve Hendrix/CI
 

Paratom

Well-known member
It took me 2 years until I decided to just go for it. 90 has been to short as a longest lens for me.
But I have not yet much experience with it. IMO the combo with the tc is quite flexible, and there isn't any other long option so far. It's like a portrait and a mid tele lens in one.
The first images looked good. The lens is not really light, but IMO it rounds up the lens setup.
But yes, its more on the heavy side.
I don't think I would have bought the 135 if there wasn't the 1.7 tc.
 

chriswebb

Well-known member
These days my X2D has the 135mm basically glued to it. I think I've put maybe 10k shots through it? I don't use the TC as I would use a different lens for longer focal length and I have the same hesitance about TCs as the above poster.

For my usage I mainly do landscapes. I have also used it for some birds but it is by no means a star at fast small wildlife. I no longer post my work on this forum or online so cannot show you any recent examples.

Obviously would love wider aperture, but the main thing I wish it had was closer focus distance, but you can't have everything.
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Thank you, all four, for your answers, nice to hear. And nice to hear from Chriswebb that the 135 is glued on the X2D(!)
Even though it, with the TC, only is 178mm i FF, and cannot be compared with my Nikon Z400/4.5 on my Z7, its a bit shorter in the bag though than the Nikon set, and just a tiny bit heavier, so walking with it should not be worse, and I'm still beeing turning towards the X2D for the special IQ, so deershoting will mean getting into the half or 2/3 "Nikon-distance" and/or cropping (so talking to deer, while approaching, for calming, can be a necessary approach).
chriswebb...are you using another and longer lens on your X2D, with adapter, or? (which lens and adapter, then?)
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
so I might be going from about this, taken the other day with XCD 90/3.2

index.php

to about this with a 135+1.7TC

index.php

That could be sufficient in many cases.
(Not at all scientific calculated)
...Thorkil
 

Geoff

Well-known member
There is something about shooting with this lens that is quite rewarding - the drop off and compression is quite pleasant, a bit stronger than the 90mm. Haven't used the TC, as it makes the lens more unwieldy. Reminds me oddly of the beauty of the Zeiss 250mm - relatively compact, and great image quality. It is a bit heavy tho...
 

hcubell

Well-known member
I have had the 135mm and the TC for several years. The optical quality of the lens is superb, both with and without the TC, but I rarely shoot it wide open. There are TCs and there are TCs. This one is designed just for the 135, and it shows. The one drawback is that I usually shoot in adverse weather conditions, and mounting and unmounting the lens and the TC is a chore when it's windy and either raining or snowing.
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Thank you for feedback.
Anyone tried the CFI 180/4 Sonnar with XV adapter and electronic shutter on the X2D?
Manual focusing seems to be seamless on the X2D
 

jng

Well-known member
Thank you for feedback.
Anyone tried the CFI 180/4 Sonnar with XV adapter and electronic shutter on the X2D?
Manual focusing seems to be seamless on the X2D
It’s been a while since I used the 4/180 Sonnar but I think you won’t be disappointed with it on the X2D. I’d probably go for the XCD 135 + 1.7X TC if I didn’t already own the 250 Superachromat, which is superb and works well for me in making compressed landscape images. I still own the 180’s little sibling - an old (and I mean old) 4/150 C Sonnar T* - which is also excellent on the X2D and gives me good coverage on the short-tele end. Both the 150 and 180 Sonnars show a *very* small amount of chromatic aberration compared to the 250 SA. One feature-not-a-bug of residual chromatic aberration is that it makes manual focusing a bit easier by watching for the transition from green to magenta on high contrast objects when one rocks focus back and forth. This doesn‘t help with the 250 SA (there’s no detectable CA regardless), which is also pretty unforgiving when focus is only slightly off.

John
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Thank you for answers!
Well, I might reconsider about a CFI or CFE 180, while I'm doing handheld shots of deer etc., and the needed electronic shutter on the X2D could cause weird distortion together with the IBIS (see Jim Kasson 12. october 2023). And while my handholding often are not too steady, that may throw me out in problems ..

So either the XCD 135+1.7TC or waiting for the new telelens one could expect soon (?) from Hasselblad
 

mristuccia

Well-known member
Thank you for answers!
Well, I might reconsider about a CFI or CFE 180, while I'm doing handheld shots of deer etc., and the needed electronic shutter on the X2D could cause weird distortion together with the IBIS (see Jim Kasson 12. october 2023). And while my handholding often are not too steady, that may throw me out in problems ..

So either the XCD 135+1.7TC or waiting for the new telelens one could expect soon (?) from Hasselblad
If you ever venture to try a CF / CFi 180 handheld, I strongly suggest to switch to RAW 14bit mode to minimize the rolling shutter duration.
Regarding rolling shutter distortions, IBIS should take care of your hand shaking, but not of moving objects/animals, although if they move slow I don't see much of a problem.

I would not try panning however. :)
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
If you ever venture to try a CF / CFi 180 handheld, I strongly suggest to switch to RAW 14bit mode to minimize the rolling shutter duration.
Regarding rolling shutter distortions, IBIS should take care of your hand shaking, but not of moving objects/animals, although if they move slow I don't see much of a problem.

I would not try panning however. :)
Hi Marco
Thanks for answering.
But this article from Jim Kasson made me worry about being on the wrong track with a CF/CFI/CFE 180 and the needed electronic shutter on the X2D
So perhaps better skip, get the expensive 135+1.7TV or wait for upcoming (but still rather expensive) new tele XCD.
Thorkil
 

mristuccia

Well-known member
Hi Marco
Thanks for answering.
But this article from Jim Kasson made me worry about being on the wrong track with a CF/CFI/CFE 180 and the needed electronic shutter on the X2D
So perhaps better skip, get the expensive 135+1.7TV or wait for upcoming (but still rather expensive) new tele XCD.
Thorkil

Hi Thorkil,

I see what you mean.
I can only say that I'm perfectly able to shoot hand-held with CF 100mil on my 907x+CFV-100c in 14bit RAW mode in daylight. And the 907x doesn't even have IBIS.
I have the CF 180mil, but never tried hand-held, I may try just out of curiosity.

Of course going with the 135+1.7TV is the safest option, and if you don't own the CF 180mil already, I would go straight for the 135 as well.
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Hi Thorkil,

I see what you mean.
I can only say that I'm perfectly able to shoot hand-held with CF 100mil on my 907x+CFV-100c in 14bit RAW mode in daylight. And the 907x doesn't even have IBIS.
I have the CF 180mil, but never tried hand-held, I may try just out of curiosity.

Of course going with the 135+1.7TV is the safest option, and if you don't own the CF 180mil already, I would go straight for the 135 as well.
Hi Marco
No I don't have the CF 180.
But I have the wonderfull F 110/2 Planar, and the XV adapter.
So, while I often can get rather close to the deers, I obviously have to try the 110/2 out. Also long time since doing that.
So, it is longing for some fresh air..
It has a lot CA in backlight though, for out of focus objects, but when you know it, just try to avoid it...
Thorkil
 

mristuccia

Well-known member
As said, out of curiosity I've just tried with my 907x and the CF 180.
A banal photo, taken from my balcony towards another balcony.

B0006830_v1_GetDPI.jpg
907x + CFV-100c | CF 4/180 | Hand-held at ISO400, f8, 1/320 sec in 14bit RAW mode - no IBIS of course

And this is how the whole setup looks like:
IMG_8819.jpg
 
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Thorkil

Well-known member
Thank you, no its certainly not a tiny construction with the adapter... :p
The balcony looks fine, but is it a tiny bit unsharp?
I would miss the IBIS. I will try with and without the Ibis, and see how wrong it can go.
I use to tell myself without ibis the shutter has to be at least 3 x focal length.
Well I better get the 110 on, and get out to find some deers...
 

mristuccia

Well-known member
Thank you, no its certainly not a tiny construction with the adapter... :p
The balcony looks fine, but is it a tiny bit unsharp?
I would miss the IBIS. I will try with and without the Ibis, and see how wrong it can go.
I use to tell myself without ibis the shutter has to be at least 3 x focal length.
Well I better get the 110 on, and get out to find some deers...
Yes, it may not be 100% sharp, although I think it is when I see the original image on Phocus. Consider that I've been so "brave" to use 1/320 sec with a 180mm lens without IBIS, not even a 2x factor. :D
The goal however was not precise focus nor micro hand-shaking control, it was more to test how much rolling-shutter distortion one gets with a static subject. Not that much, but sometimes I get a bit of it.

Yes, it is a bulky setup, I don't use this setup hand-held usually. :)
 
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