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Expirience with the Hasselblad XCD 135 + 1.7TC?

iczek

Well-known member
I have the Sonnar 150/4 and use it with the Hasselblad XV adapter. As Marco mentioned, you need to switch to 14-bit and of course use only the electronic shutter, but even that won’t protect you from rolling shutter. With my 150 and the 907x 100C body, even a slight movement of the subject very often results in rolling shutter. However, the results are just wonderful.

I tested the CF 180/4 with the same setup, and I have to honestly say that I don’t think there’s any lens as sharp as the 180mm :)
It’s a slightly different kind of sharpness compared to what you’ll see with the digitally optimized XCD 135mm, but the quality of the CF lenses (180 or 150) is simply amazing. Keep in mind some of them were produced even 20 years ago :)

I’m sharing two sample photos wirth CF 150/4 . In the shots of the yacht masts, you can see the rolling shutter. It was quite windy, and the tops of the masts were moving a lot.

Slight rolling with 150/4 CF:
B0000580.jpg


Full picture and crop 100% from 150/4:
B0000719.jpg

crop1.jpg
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Perhaps I better then get bancrupted than frustrated, and buy the 135+1.7TC....😃
But anyway, out in the deerpark with me and the 110/2.
I cant get Auto-iso on, in this setting, which could have been nice, but f2 should gather some light to me, but I'm sure with a very narrow DOF...
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
I have the Sonnar 150/4 and use it with the Hasselblad XV adapter. As Marco mentioned, you need to switch to 14-bit and of course use only the electronic shutter, but even that won’t protect you from rolling shutter. With my 150 and the 907x 100C body, even a slight movement of the subject very often results in rolling shutter. However, the results are just wonderful.

I tested the CF 180/4 with the same setup, and I have to honestly say that I don’t think there’s any lens as sharp as the 180mm :)
It’s a slightly different kind of sharpness compared to what you’ll see with the digitally optimized XCD 135mm, but the quality of the CF lenses (180 or 150) is simply amazing. Keep in mind some of them were produced even 20 years ago :)

I’m sharing two sample photos wirth CF 150/4 . In the shots of the yacht masts, you can see the rolling shutter. It was quite windy, and the tops of the masts were moving a lot.

Slight rolling with 150/4 CF:
View attachment 223812


Full picture and crop 100% from 150/4:
View attachment 223813

View attachment 223814
A hasty answer: Thanks - looks very nice...
One could get a 180, and see whats happening to Hasselblad and their plans for a new tele, and have some fun with a 180 until then....
 

iczek

Well-known member
I am not sure if Hasselblad has any longer lens then 135mm for X system in a roadmap :(
This has always been, for me, one of the drawbacks of the limited universality of this system and the reason for glancing toward the Fuji GFX, which has even had a 500mm lens for a year now!
That’s why, instead of spending $4,500 on the XCD 135 + TC, I decided to spend $600 on CF lens and another $300 on V>X adapter :)
The biggest challenge, however, isn’t the image quality, sharpness, or rolling shutter... it turned out that the greatest challenge is actually finding a step-down adapter from Hasselblad’s native 60 bayonet to, say, a 67mm thread :)
 
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Godfrey

Well-known member
Hmm. I need a cheap Nikon F to Hasselblad X mount adapter so I can use my cheap Sigma 600mm f/8 reflex lens on the 907x. ;)

G

---
Cobbled up an adapter by using Nikon F to Leica M and Leica M to Hassy X mount adapters.
 
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Thorkil

Well-known member
Hmm. I need a cheap Nikon F to Hasselblad X mount adapter so I can use my cheap Sigma 600mm f/8 reflex lens on the 907x. ;)

G

---
Cobbled up an adapter by using Nikon F to Leica M and Leica M to Hassy X mount adapters.
:giggle: looks like you live in a rather foggy area, Godfrey:geek:
I would like to have a Nikon Z to Hasselblad X adapter for my Z400/4.5, so a hint could be useful :unsure:
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
The F110/2+XV adaper on X2D some hours ago: Some of the pictures came out really fine even at 100%.

But CA, by bright background, if you dont underexpose seriously for later PP.
1-1½ EV underexposure seems to give the best result (which I often tend to do to avoid burning out the bright areas)

Rather fine mood in the pictures. Yes I really like the mood (but weather was rewarding, heavy dark clouds, with low fresh-soft sunshine underneath from time to time.
Rolling shutter effect here and there.
Sharpness seems not to be razor sharp.

But all in all I think it might be too demanding with manual focusing (by pressing the backweel to enlarge, a fine thing), try to avoid CA and rolling shutter effects, getting the right iso setting, right aperture and shutter. Its sort of getting too complicated walking around, even though a bit entertaining, but somehow in the longer run, a bit too entertaining.
And a CFI or CFE 180 will be even more demanding running around handheld. And thats what I do.
Even though its too late to sell my mother ... I guess I would really like a XCD 135+1.7TC ...
I'll get back with some pictures from this evening, some of these days
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
:giggle: looks like you live in a rather foggy area, Godfrey:geek:
I would like to have a Nikon Z to Hasselblad X adapter for my Z400/4.5, so a hint could be useful :unsure:
Yeah, the old Sigma tends to flare a bit. It's a lens I found at a flea market for $80 or so a decade or more back. It occasionally returns a pretty nice photo for me, but I so rarely use anything longer than about 100mm it's more a thing of entertainment than real photography.

I'd just poke around on ebay or bhphoto for mount adapters. The better ones get a bit pricey, but it's worth the money for more precise machining and better finish.

G
 
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chriswebb

Well-known member
Let me add one caveat to the lens that may be obvious to most here. For some demanding conditions the built in lens correction for vignetting is not good enough and could cause more issues. A simple LCC process/Scene calibration instead solves the issue.
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Let me add one caveat to the lens that may be obvious to most here. For some demanding conditions the built in lens correction for vignetting is not good enough and could cause more issues. A simple LCC process/Scene calibration instead solves the issue.
Thanks
Well, in danish we have an expression, that goes like:
Here the sheep are separated from the goats
While I'm just a civilian amateur not a pro, and have no knowledge about creating LCC processes.
Thorkil
PS but have just looked at it, at different sources...it might be to overcome, we will see, or perhaps I go for the Nikkor 70-200/4 solution for the time being
 
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Precision

Active member
Another set from recent testing, 135mmf2.8 wide open, handheld, base iso- trying out the autofocus system (expecting that brick/straight lines background to give AF fits) . Note plane of focus wide open is very thin. I was about 3 meters from the subject. No filter or adjustment, this is just Hasselblad color science.
F8A2F610-D0AD-4D7D-899E-2D99F02D7D63.jpeg3698234C-EAF5-4391-BC81-4CF521B87B04.jpeg
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
I decided for a CFE 180/4 Sonnar while this is the latest edition with updated construction and coatings, so perhaps the CA will be lower.
Shutterrolling was an issue in the harbour, and strong CA in the water. But deershoting seemed okay with the F110/2 (pictures later on...)
 
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mristuccia

Well-known member
I decided for a CFE 180/4 Sonnar while this is the latest edition with updated construction and coatings, so perhaps the CA will be lower.
Shutterrolling was an issue in the harbour, and strong CA in the water. But deershoting seemed okay with the F110/2 (pictures later on...)

Well, have fun. :)

If you use Phocus, setting the appropriated lens correction and Chromatic Aberration to "Standard" helps me a lot with any CA and distortion a V lens may suffer of:

Screenshot 2025-10-01 at 12.56.45.jpg

For the rest, there is the Defringe tool:

Screenshot 2025-10-01 at 12.48.13.jpg
 
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Thorkil

Well-known member
Thank you!!
Well the downside is that the CFE 180 set will be 457 gram heavier than my Z7+400/4,5 set and 326 gram heavier than the F110/2, BUT 65 gram lighter than the XCD135+1.7TC set....:cautious::giggle:
But then there is this Hasselblad feeling, on the other side - and the inspiration for try keeping the phsysical shape slightly more "top"-tuned...
Yes my "workflow" is to export them in Phocus as TIFF files, then open them in C1. Causing a lot of space-eating with the 285Mb TIFF files - perhaps I should go for DNG files insteadf.
But some time ago I experienced that working the F110/2 (should have kept previous FE110/2) files on the CA only helped (but only a tiny bit) by working in Phocus, not in C1
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Yeah, the old Sigma tends to flare a bit. It's a lens I found at a flea market for $80 or so a decade or more back. It occasionally returns a pretty nice photo for me, but I so rarely use anything longer than about 100mm it's more a thing of entertainment than real photography.

I'd just poke around on ebay or bhphoto for mount adapters. The better ones get a bit pricey, but it's worth the money for more precise machining and better finish.

G
just ordered the
1759405480037.png
with aperture adjusting with the grey tab at the side.
So I can try the Nikon 70-200/4 on the X2D too
Thorkil
 
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