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Fuji GFX50R + Arca Swiss RM3di Combo

diggles

Well-known member
So I've had a chance to try out the RM3Di with the GFX50R and the following lenses via Arca Swiss adapters:
  • Canon TS-E 17
  • Canon TS-E 24 ii
  • HD Pentax 645 35mm
  • Canon TS-E 50 Macro
In my opinion this set up checks the important boxes for a streamlined tilt-shift system for client work.
  • The RM3Di provides the tech cam experience
  • GFX50R has mechanical shutter making strobes easy to use
  • Can tether using Capture One or CamRanger
  • RM3Di can utilize the full shift capabilities of these lenses in addition to tilt or swing
  • Between 35mm sensor and full sensor these 4 lenses provide a wide range of focal lengths from 14mm to 50mm relative to a 35mm FF sensor
Agreed that using the crop sensor is not ideal, but sometimes it could a better option. If I want an image with a 19mm angle of view then I'd use the 24mm with the full sensor. If I want a 24mm angle of view then I'd use the crop sensor. Sure, I could use the full sensor and crop, but I would rather see in the viewfinder what it will look like before I take the picture.

I would also argue that 6755x4503 pixels is plenty of resolution for most clients most of the time. For example: Just this week, a client that does commercial interior design sent me the requirements for a new project they would like to get photographed. In their request they asked for 'high-res' images that are 4,000-6,000 pixels on the long side.

To test these theories out I photographed a commercial building and my living room.

Here is a test image taken with the HD Pentax 645 35mm and about 12mm of vertical shift @ f/16 (I took a series of images from f/8 to f/22 and the best results in terms of overall sharpness were at f/16)
_50R2992-2560px.jpg

Here is a test shot in my living room with the HD Pentax 645 35mm and +/- a couple mm of vertical shift (don't remember) and a couple degrees of tilt thanks to the RM3Di (I took a series of images from f/8 to f/22 and again, to my eyes, the best results in terms of overall sharpness were at f/16–without tilt the table and chairs were not in focus)
GFX50r0035-p35mm-f16-tilt.jpg
 
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So I've had a chance to try out the RM3Di with the GFX50R and the following lenses via Arca Swiss adapters:
  • Canon TS-E 17
  • Canon TS-E 24 ii
  • HD Pentax 645 35mm
  • Canon TS-E 50 Macro
In my opinion this set up checks the important boxes for a streamlined tilt-shift system for client work.
  • The RM3Di provides the tech cam experience
  • GFX50R has mechanical shutter making strobes easy to use
  • Can tether using Capture One or CamRanger
  • RM3Di can utilize the full shift capabilities of these lenses in addition to tilt or swing
  • Between 35mm sensor and full sensor these 4 lenses provide a wide range of focal lengths from 14mm to 50mm relative to a 35mm FF sensor
Agreed that using the crop sensor is not ideal, but sometimes it could a better option. If I want an image with a 19mm angle of view then I'd use the 24mm with the full sensor. If I want a 24mm angle of view then I'd use the crop sensor. Sure, I could use the full sensor and crop, but I would rather see in the viewfinder what it will look like before I take the picture.

I would also argue that 6755x4503 pixels is plenty of resolution for most clients most of the time. For example: Just this week, a client that does commercial interior design sent me the requirements for a new project they would like to get photographed. In their request they asked for 'high-res' images that are 4,000-6,000 pixels on the long side.

To test these theories out I photographed a commercial building and my living room.

Here is a test image taken with the HD Pentax 645 35mm and about 12mm of vertical shift @ f/16 (I took a series of images from f/8 to f/22 and the best results in terms of overall sharpness were at f/16)
View attachment 195324

Here is a test shot in my living room with the HD Pentax 645 35mm and +/- a couple mm of vertical shift (don't remember) and a couple degrees of tilt thanks to the RM3Di (I took a series of images from f/8 to f/22 and again, to my eyes, the best results in terms of overall sharpness were at f/16–without tilt the table and chairs were not in focus)
View attachment 195323
Thanks so much for these tests, really interesting! I have the Pentax 645 35mm A and find that I cannot get this much shift out of it and the distortion is really strong... There is a lot of varying information on this lens on various forums..

How is the distortion on this model? Easy to fix, even with movements applied?

With regards to the 24mm TS-E II, I feel I can get about 5-6mm (GFX format) before it starts to deteriorate... My only issue with using the 35mm mode is that I hate the "skinniness" of that format and would prefer to keep everything in either 4:3 or 5:4 format... One of the reasons I bought into the GFX system.

Can you think of a good method for shooting in a smaller resolution but keeping the aspect ratio..

Thanks! :)
 

diggles

Well-known member
I have the Pentax 645 35mm A and find that I cannot get this much shift out of it and the distortion is really strong... How is the distortion on this model? Easy to fix, even with movements applied?
The HD Pentax 645 35mm does allow a significant amount of shift. At least 15mm in any vertical or horizontal direction, and just starts to vignette with 15mm of diagonal shift. In the example above I shifted vertically, and simply used the lens profile available in ACR. The image above still looks a bit wonky to me. Better than straight out of camera, but still not quite right.

In my testing I'm finding that small amounts of shift work with the lens profile corrections, but larger shifts don't work as well. The lens corrections in ACR assume the lens hasn't been shifted. This led me to wonder if the lens profile would work if I kept the lens in the center of the image by extending the canvas. The problem with this is that the lens profiles are not included in the Camera Raw filter, they are only present when the original RAW files are opened.

I didn't want to give up on this idea so my next thought was to create a pano even if I only want a single frame for the final shot. Basically, if I want the final image to be shifted vertically by 12mm then I make a 3 image vertical pano–12mm down, centered, and 12mm up–and combine them in ACR using the pano option. When creating a pano in ACR the resulting file is a .dng which still allows the use of lens corrections. First I apply the lens correction, then crop it down to the size I originally intended it to be. The extra steps are not ideal, but I've found it to works much better than trying to apply lens profile corrections to a single shifted image.

Here is an example of an image processed this way:

Without lens correction you can see how the roofline is not straight:
ptx-35mm-distortion-before-fix.jpg

With the lens correction available in ACR the roof line is straight:
ptx-35mm-distortion-after-fix.jpg

PM if you'd like a link to download the individual raw files and pano dng to see the process.
 

diggles

Well-known member
With regards to the 24mm TS-E II, I feel I can get about 5-6mm (GFX format) before it starts to deteriorate... My only issue with using the 35mm mode is that I hate the "skinniness" of that format and would prefer to keep everything in either 4:3 or 5:4 format... One of the reasons I bought into the GFX system.

Can you think of a good method for shooting in a smaller resolution but keeping the aspect ratio..
I couldn't agree more!! For me the 3:2 format is not ideal either. I wish the aspect ratio could be controlled when in 35 format mode. It almost makes this whole idea a no go for me.

Another option for 35mm format mode that would be fantastic is the ability to use the joystick to control which area of the sensor gets exposed in the same way the joystick is used when zooming in to inspect focus accuracy. This would provide a digital T/S option for native Fuji lenses and only require firmware.

Both of these ideas can be simulated while tethering with C1 with the crop tool, but having the option in camera would be ideal because tethering is not always practical.

Cheers!
 

diggles

Well-known member
Both of these ideas can be simulated while tethering with C1 with the crop tool
Quoting myself here… I'm going to test this out using native GF lenses. It could completely derail the idea of the Arca GFX 50r for me… Oy vey!!
 
Quoting myself here… I'm going to test this out using native GF lenses. It could completely derail the idea of the Arca GFX 50r for me… Oy vey!!
Thanks for the response, much appreciated! Seems like the newer version of the Pentax 645 35mm is indeed better, although I still see conflicting reports on this.. Might have to pick one up and compare side by side..

With regards to the digital zoom, I think that is a great idea.. Have thought something similar for a whole now. Even Canons approach of have a 1.2 or a 1.5 crop would be great... Like you said though, it would need to keep the intended aspect ratio.

If shooting in 4:3 a sort of round about approach is to shoot the image and then zoom in. Gives you a rough idea but obviously not as good as doing it before taking the shot..

Does C1 enable liveview on all the GFX models? I thought there were some issues with some of them?

Thanks! :)
 

diggles

Well-known member
Might have to pick one up and compare side by side..
If I want to know for myself then this is the only way I've found. You can get one from BH or Adorama and return it if it doesn't work out for you.

Does C1 enable liveview on all the GFX models? I thought there were some issues with some of them?
It doesn't work for me on the GFX100S. This is what I've been doing:
  • Place the tripod at the point of view I like
  • Use the Mark II Viewfinder app to determine the longest lens I can use for the shot
  • Take a test image while tethered to C1
  • Use the crop tool in C1 with 4:3 aspect ratio and watch the pixels to keep the size usable for my clients–I try not to go smaller than 8500px on the long side, but will use 6000px at a minimum if I have to.
  • Once I get the RAW files where I want them to be in C1 then I export them all to the same size for further editing in Photoshop. 6000x4500 will likely be my goto.
Here's images from three different fixed focal length lenses done this way. Tripod didn't move.

GF 23mm - Crop was 4709 x 6278 px:
2022-07-23-GFX100S-GF-Lenses0791-23mm.jpg

GF 30mm - Crop was 6138 x 8183 px:
2022-07-23-GFX100S-GF-Lenses0795-30mm.jpg

GF 45mm - No Crop 8866 x 11822 px:
2022-07-23-GFX100S-GF-Lenses0793-45mm.jpg
 
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rdeloe

Well-known member
If I want to know for myself then this is the only way I've found. You can get one from BH or Adorama and return it if it doesn't work out for you.



It doesn't work for me on the GFX100S. This is what I've been doing:
  • Place the tripod at the point of view I like
  • Use the Mark II Viewfinder app to determine the longest lens I can use for the shot
  • Take a test image while tethered to C1
  • Use the crop tool in C1 with 4:3 aspect ratio and watch the pixels to keep the size usable for my clients–I try not to go smaller than 8500px on the long side, but will use 6000px at a minimum if I have to.
  • Once I get the RAW files where I want them to be in C1 then I export them all to the same size for further editing in Photoshop. 6000x4500 will likely be my goto.
Here's images from three different fixed focal length lenses done this way. Tripod didn't move.

GF 23mm - Crop was 4709 x 6278 px:
View attachment 195543
I have questions... about that rabbit! ;)
 
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