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The dilemma is the budget. As a wildlife enthusiast the 150-600 is of course of interest to me but I have to say that I go hot and cold about it because the XF 100-400+TC1.4x which I already own is close to equivalent, although I have to stop down to at least f9 to get good centre sharpness when using the TC (like most wildlife photogs, I don't care about the corners because I mostly crop to the centre).
To me sounds like the 8mm will suit you better for the time being. Earn some money with it and then get the long lens if still wanted by then.The dilemma is the budget. As a wildlife enthusiast the 150-600 is of course of interest to me but I have to say that I go hot and cold about it because the XF 100-400+TC1.4x which I already own is close to equivalent, although I have to stop down to at least f9 to get good centre sharpness when using the TC (like most wildlife photogs, I don't care about the corners because I mostly crop to the centre).
However, what people pay me for is architecture and objects. For objects, I am completely covered with the XF80f2.8. For interiors I use the XF10-24 which is a fantastic lens. I'm not sure I have used it much at anything other than 10mm. Now and then, though, it is not wide enough and then I have to take vertical panos and stitch. I know from owning the 8-16 that even that extra small difference can translate to a big difference on an interior.
I don't have the budget for both right now, hence my dilemma. Actually, I think I am going to save my dough and not buy either for the present! Maybe when the Western economies stabilise a bit next year my 'consumer confidence' will improve and I'll get both
Finally, this last week I cracked. I was trying to work on some photos for a book project, featuring some of the very large Edwardian buildings around SW1P in London. Gave up with the 10-24 and ordered and received the 8mm. Does the job. Hopefully, between this and another job I am doing I will at least get the money back on it. In my opinion the lens is good but not stellar unlike many Fuji lenses. Fortunately, no one looks that closely at the corners but it needs to be stopped down to f8 to get sharpness across the frame but then diffraction sets in at about f16 so there is very small window to work with.
