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FUJIFILM GFX 50S, 50R, 100, etc. ... Peculiarities

k-hawinkler

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
Knorp said:
I think spring arrived in my neck of the woods, K-H.
Within one week time, the temperatures went from -15 to +17
Click to expand...
That’s great Bart,-15 to +17 Celsius, very nice.
For several days in a row we have had now and will have blue skies.
Not bad. A little frigid but that will hopefully change pretty soon.

\Of course we will have some snow again in the second half of April.

Spring and Fall around here are pretty short, typically about 2 weeks each.

But we certainly need the moisture the snow brings. :cool:
 
Makten

Makten

Well-known member
Lengthy thread, so I don't know if this question might have been answered already, but... Is there any way of disabling or at least lower the in-camera vignetting correction? I find the JPG:s being so aggressively vignetting corrected that it looks unnatural, and it's very obvious how much some of the GF lenses (particularly the 45) vignette when you view the corresponding raw files.
I've set the "lens modulation optimizer" to "off" in camera, but they are still corrected for vignetting, for some reason. :(

Edit: This is for the 50R...
 
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V

vjbelle

Well-known member
I have found that auto focus is almost necessary for my GF lenses with my 100s - at least the ones I own. Manual focus can be very inaccurate on the edges even though the center is dead on. A left edge could be out and a right edge in or vice/versa. Even focusing on the edges and then comparing the other edge does not always lead to good results. Auto focus, though, brings everything together - this is in particular with my 110mm and I must sometimes concentrate an edge for perfection. Manual focus by wire is very sensitive with the GF lenses, at least the longer lenses.

Another issue I have as compared to my Sony 7RM4 is that at maximum magnification level LV in a mixed environment with regards to depth I can't get an accurate focus. There is nothing in the viewfinder to indicate what the camera is focusing on - I am using single point mode. With my Sony I could move a cross point to the exact area I wanted to focus on..... not so with the Fuji. All of this is moot when using a tech camera.

Still very happy but would like focus area to be improved unless I am missing something.

Victor B.
 
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k-hawinkler

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
vjbelle said:
I have found that auto focus is almost necessary for my GF lenses with my 100s - at least the ones I own. Manual focus can be very inaccurate on the edges even though the center is dead on. A left edge could be out and a right edge in or vice/versa. Even focusing on the edges and then comparing the other edge does not always lead to good results. Auto focus, though, brings everything together - this is in particular with my 110mm and I must sometimes concentrate an edge for perfection. Manual focus by wire is very sensitive with the GF lenses, at least the longer lenses.

Another issue I have as compared to my Sony 7RM4 is that at maximum magnification level LV in a mixed environment with regards to depth I can't get an accurate focus. There is nothing in the viewfinder to indicate what the camera is focusing on - I am using single point mode. With my Sony I could move a cross point to the exact area I wanted to focus on..... not so with the Fuji. All of this is moot when using a tech camera.

Still very happy but would like focus area to be improved unless I am missing something.

Victor B.
Click to expand...
Many thanks Victor for your experience report, much appreciated. Interesting indeed.
 
V

vjbelle

Well-known member
I have found another oddity regarding the 100s. This one is in regards to the EVF. I had initially set my EVF to manual at the default level of '0'. I didn't give much attention to it subsequent to that setting since I use a loupe with the LCD most of the time. However I was reading Chambers' blog and he was crying the blues about the EVF being far inferior to the Sony 7RM4 and that it was just crap, etc, etc. I have the Sony so I looked at each and was surprised at how much brighter and contrasty the Sony was. I decided to set the 100s EVF to 'Auto' and couldn't believe the difference in brightness, color saturation and contrast vs. the manual setting. In my estimation it was better than the Sony. Then I mounted the camera to my Cambo and all of the brightness, color saturation and contrast disappeared. The 'Auto' setting must be pegged to the native GF lenses for it to work properly. So I went back to the manual setting but with a brightness level of +2 which gives me very nice results with either the GF lenses or non GF lenses.

None of this is a big deal to me but might be to someone else.

Victor B.
 
Knorp

Knorp

Well-known member
Interesting: I noticed that at times the EVF without me changing anything just switching on the camera and GF lens attached, became very dim, hardly usable.
I've not figured out yet what exactly cures this situation, but just fiddling with the settings does brightens up the EVF to normal. A true bug !
 
V

vjbelle

Well-known member
I certainly agree that this could be a bug but hopefully fixed by firmware. I also remember the EVF being dim at times but it would go away as fast as it arrived and everything would stabilize. After using my Phase 4150 I got used to all of the oddities these cameras/backs can deliver.

Victor B.
 
V

vjbelle

Well-known member
Bart, what I have found so far is that my EVF brightness level, set at manual +2, is rock solid with non GF lenses, ie attached to my Cambo. When I attach my 80mm GF lens, immediately after removing from my Cambo, put the camera against my eye and turn on it starts out dim. This is repeatable. However if I start out with the camera 'Not' against my eye the EVF brightness level is OK. Also if the EVF starts out dim and I take the camera away from my eye the EVF snaps back to the correct brightness level. There must be a sensor that reads some brightness level from the 'user' side of the EVF that has some interaction when used with a GF lens.... at least that is what I am concluding so far. All of this is kind of strange but, again, I'm used to bugs.

Victor B.
 
V

vjbelle

Well-known member
I can repeat this EVF phenomenon with numerous GF lenses but never with a non GF lens. If I hold my eye up against the EVF - tightly - turn on the camera, the EVF image will be dimmed. Once the camera is taken away from my eye the EVF springs back to the correct brightness level which I have set to manual +2. If I turn on the camera without having it against my eye the brightness level is set correctly.

Victor B.
 
Knorp

Knorp

Well-known member
Hi Victor, could it be that the aperture is not opening up ?
As you managed to recreate the issue, did you try with the lens wide open ?
Obviously I could do this too, but it happens to be almost 11 PM (23:00h) and I’m in bed ...
Sorry ... :sleep:
 
k-hawinkler

k-hawinkler

Well-known member
Thanks gentlemen.
It seems the Sony ILCE-1 is not the only camera with an EVF issue.
That gives me hope that these camera makers will finally get around to fixing these issues with their flagship cameras.
 
V

vjbelle

Well-known member
Off Topic..... I can't believe that the LCD screen on the A1 is the low resolution screen used originally, and now replaced, on the 7RM4.

Victor B.
 
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