Yes, I definitely agree that a lot of it is overkill for hobbyists. But, there's quite a few who I feel can do better than some working pros. I had a landscape shot with model that was especially difficult. There was a hill/cliff on the right that had one model halfway up with another model on the flat ground. So, part landscape, part editorial with a heavy breeze blowing through the narrow passage. There was also some nasty swamp-like crap to the opposite side of the frame and the time-window was very narrow. The icing on that cake was that strobes were mixed, so apertures had to be fairly wide.While I totally agree that a thorough understanding of the geometry is helpful (to avoid large confusing errors, mostly), when it comes down to setting the tilt in the field, one either has to use an app, a calculator, a rule of thumb, or very good eyesight. Computing (180/Pi)*ArcTan(focal length/height) is not my idea of fun. Ok, it IS my idea of fun, but I'm weird. BTW, it's 30 mm=1 degree for 5 1/2 feet. My memory was off. Since the formula is very close to linear in MOST landscape uses (not product photography!), I'm happy with the approximation.
Also, as noted above, f/22 is your friend.
BTW, laser pointers mounted vertically parallel to the sensor plane and lens plane would be helpful. Tilt until the spots line up. Someone should market it...
And does anyone know a simple proof of Scheimpflug? I'm a geometer - I'll give it a try...
Ended up shooting it with all kinds of crazy movements around f5.6 on sheet film. It was definitely the most memorable shoot I've had where I had to do all kinds of drawing and calculations to get it in the can.
I had a "bore sight" style filter I made which screwed onto the front of the lens and projected the beam along the image path. It was milled brass with a smaller laser diode and optics inserted into a center well, then collimated. I haven't used it in years, but it doubled as a focus aid for long distances in the dark!